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Old 03-07-2012, 03:33 PM   #1
ENY169
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Default another 02 WRX MH1 retrofit

i've taken enough space in someone else's thread (sorry rallyt) so here's mine with pics. this is not a step by step guide. some daytime pics:







thx aleutdude, rallyt, satrya and all the others who have done this
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Old 03-07-2012, 03:48 PM   #2
satrya
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Looks good. Do the high beam solenoids work now?
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Old 03-07-2012, 03:59 PM   #3
ENY169
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thx! i think they changed their harness again because there is another connector, a very small one with two wires going to it. i think i got it figured out, thanks for your patience lol

when i turn on the highs the indicator in the cluster lights up but just by looking at the projectors in daylight, i cant really tell if the highs are on or not
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:26 PM   #4
satrya
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Just one extra connector or a pair of extra connectors? Directly connected to the TRS harness or as an add on?
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:48 PM   #5
ENY169
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one for each side, with a black and red wire going to them

when i connect the solenoid wires to the main harness, the shield flips down turning it into high beam. when i disconnect it, it goes back into low beam. obviously its disconnected for now but what does this mean?? i cant have high beams not operational..
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:41 PM   #6
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
one for each side, with a black and red wire going to them

when i connect the solenoid wires to the main harness, the shield flips down turning it into high beam. when i disconnect it, it goes back into low beam. obviously its disconnected for now but what does this mean?? i cant have high beams not operational..
Wired correctly, the 2 connectors with black & red wires are for the ballast, while the 2 with black & blue wires are for the solenoids. In case the wire insulation color is different, the ones that go to the ballast (black & red on the two 9007/9004 TRS harness units I've tried) are thicker than the ones that go to the solenoids.

I think I recall somewhere in the earlier stage of my install, where all I can do is connect 1 pair to get the lows, and if I connect both pairs, I get some strange condition where switching the oem stalk to low for the first time got me high beams (i.e. activated solenoid), but moving the stalk to high, and then to low gave me low beams. The problem was there was some residual current going somewhere, and after a while, the solenoids refuse to respond to the oem stalk on high or on dipped.

After switching to an older TRS harness that TRS sent (after learning that I'm buying it for a GD bugeye), and switching the harness signal input connector (that connects to any one of the oem headlight low/beam connectors) pins to account for the 9004 vs 9007 difference and/or ground switched difference, it worked perfectly. Low & high beams work, but no DRL.

My guess is you're having the issue you described above due to the wiring. When I searched for "bugeye hid" in hidplanet a few months ago, I found several cases where the owner settled for low beam only, with very similar symptoms.

What would help is if you could confirm with TRS that the harness you are using now is indeed the older one that's supposed to work with the bugeyes. Then, it takes a bit of experimenting to get the whole thing working. Since I spot fog covers, you're one problem less to a final solution; in my case, I had to do the "high beams on fog" mod in order for the foglights not to cause the high beam indicator on the oem gauge cluster to light up dimly during use (it still lights up normally when high beams are used).
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:36 AM   #7
ENY169
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k so i tried switching the blue and white wires in the TRS blue connector that plugs in to the oem 9007 plug. i get low and highs but no DRLs. i've since switched the wires back and disconnected the solenoids. i really cant risk not having DRLs on, its not worth a nearly $200 fine

i am definitely using the old mc harness. it has 1 black relay instead of two relays(not black)

i wonder if everyone who had this problem just gave up and either ran lows with DRL but no highs or lows and highs but no DRL. theres gotta be a way, but how

Last edited by ENY169; 03-08-2012 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:37 AM   #8
vf22Bugeye11
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all you neet know is wire the red wire from the solenoid to high beam wire on your stock harness and black wire you ground
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:45 AM   #9
ENY169
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ah so forget about the TRS harness altogether? is this what u did ^

i will try this but the logic makes sense so it should work
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:52 AM   #10
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
k so i tried switching the blue and white wires in the TRS blue connector that plugs in to the oem 9007 plug. i get low and highs but no DRLs. i've since switched the wires back and disconnected the solenoids. i really cant risk not having DRLs on, its not worth a nearly $200 fine

i am definitely using the old mc harness. it has 1 black relay instead of two relays(not black)

i wonder if everyone who had this problem just gave up and either ran lows with DRL but no highs or lows and highs but no DRL. theres gotta be a way, but how
I ended up using the old TRS harness as well. The picture below shows how I switched the wires. I ended up in that configuration by testing how the voltage difference between the 3 oem 9007 connector pins behave when the oem stalk is on the low, and then high positions. Then, I directly connected the TRS 9007 connector pins, 2 at a time, to the battery. Putting the two together resulted in the rearrangement below.

I was almost ready to make my own harness prior to that.

With the rearrangement below, the 2 harness outputs with red & black wires (i.e. the thicker wires) go to the ballast, and the 2 with blue & black wires (i.e. thinner) go to the solenoids. What you get is a properly working low, high, and dipped from the control stalk.

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Old 03-08-2012, 10:56 AM   #11
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This should help


morimo by FullBoostCreations11, on Flickr
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
ah so forget about the TRS harness altogether? is this what u did ^

i will try this but the logic makes sense so it should work
thats what i did i didnt want to spend any more money lol
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:00 PM   #13
ENY169
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thx to both of u! now i just need some red and black wires

satrya, i think you have an older version of what i have. the relay i got is half that size and doesnt say morimoto on it. the 3 wires are different as well. white, blue, brown

vf22, what color wire is the highs on the OE connector??
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:17 PM   #14
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
satrya, i think you have an older version of what i have. the relay i got is half that size and doesnt say morimoto on it. the 3 wires are different as well. white, blue, brown
That's unfortunate. I wonder if TRS is willing to swap the harness you received with the type I have, if they still have them?
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #15
vf22Bugeye11
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You dont need anymore wires there on the projector already see
You just need to get wire splice clips dont know what there called lol and splice the red projector wire to stock headlight harness high beam unfortunately there both black. I think i did the left one and if that doesn't work its the right one, and black to ground

IMG_8307 by FullBoostCreations11, on Flickr


Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
thx to both of u! now i just need some red and black wires

satrya, i think you have an older version of what i have. the relay i got is half that size and doesnt say morimoto on it. the 3 wires are different as well. white, blue, brown

vf22, what color wire is the highs on the OE connector??
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:44 PM   #16
ENY169
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i need wires to extend the solenoid wires because they are short. i tried plugging it into the socket where the red wire from the oem harness is coming from and no luck. i'll try the other side in a bit. working outside during winter ruins the fun
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:43 PM   #17
ENY169
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i tried your method vf, and no luck. i tried connecting the red wire to the two outside wires on the oe harness and nothing. i have yet to try the middle wire but from what i read , thats a ground.. so still no highs but have lows and DRL
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:59 PM   #18
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
i tried your method vf, and no luck. i tried connecting the red wire to the two outside wires on the oe harness and nothing. i have yet to try the middle wire but from what i read , thats a ground.. so still no highs but have lows and DRL
I'm still a proponent of trying to get the TRS harness to work:
(1) On the oem 9007 connector, mark which one get ~+13V and which one properly completes the connection (in that you get positive voltage reading) on a multimeter. Iirc, the oem connector will only complete the circuit with 2 pins when the oem stalk is on "low", and another 2 when the stalk is on "high". With the 2 combination, of course there is a common pin.
(2) Check to make sure the solenoids work. Test by connecting the red & black wires from the projector to the battery. You should be able to hear a faint clicking sound.
(3) When the pins of the TRS harness that connects to the 9007 connector is set up correctly, when the oem stalk is on "low", only the 2 connector pairs with the thicker wire insulation ( red & black on mine ) should have a ~13V voltage difference. When the oem stalk is on "high", both 2 pairs should have a ~13V voltage difference at the same time.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:17 AM   #19
ENY169
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i cycled the solenoids about 15 times ea before fitting them into the headlights and when using the TRS harness to connect the 2 solenoid wires, i get highs and lows working but DRL doesnt. it becomes opposite when i disconnect the solenoids from the TRS harness- i get lows and DRL instead but of course no highs

it seems the DRL and high beams dont work when one or the other is working. in both cases i have lows

im also having trouble pulling off the pwr steering reservoir from its bracket. with it in the way, i cannot adjust the pass. side beam left or right
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:29 AM   #20
ENY169
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hmm.. so it seems that i actually have all 3 settings working together. the reason why i said i didnt have high beams when DRL is working (vice versa) is because when i got the high beams working, for some odd reason, the DRL shuts off. now when i take the key out of ignition then put it back in and turn it to on position, DRL works again along with the high and low beams?? this is so weird.. oh well, as long as it works im happy =)

mind you, i havent tried connecting the solenoid wires to the TRS harness. the wires are connected to the OEM headlight harnesses (vf22bugeye's method). i will try again to see if i get the same results when connected to the TRS harness
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:11 AM   #21
satrya
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That's odd, but hopefully the issue won't resurface anymore.

Regarding the latter, if you have the direct splice approach working per vf22bugeye's suggestion (as it should), the only reason to switch to using the TRS harness is that the connection will be made using standard connectors without splicing. Imho, that reduces wiring clutter, which is always a good thing (the clutter reduction; not the clutter).
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:18 PM   #22
ENY169
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satrya, did u have trouble removing the pwr steering reservoir out of the way to adjust the beam left and right on the pass. headlamp?? it seems straight for ward when looking at it but it wont budge and i dont wanna break anything because its cold out today making the plastic stuff brittle

also, when shining on a wall about 20 ft away, theres a shadow in between the light beam where the two cutoffs are.. is that normal?? i thought its supposed to be a straight line between the two beams/cutoffs..
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:24 PM   #23
satrya
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Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
satrya, did u have trouble removing the pwr steering reservoir out of the way to adjust the beam left and right on the pass. headlamp?? it seems straight for ward when looking at it but it wont budge and i dont wanna break anything because its cold out today making the plastic stuff brittle
I used Mini D2S that didn't use the OEM adjustor (for the OEM reflector). Adjustment is via 2 hex head screws; one for yaw, one for pitch. The cold weather certainly doesn't help, but the only suggestion I have is to try to take out the headlights from the car, turn the adjuster a little, put it back, test, and repeat. Not sure if you can fabricate a tool to access the adjuster.


Quote:
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also, when shining on a wall about 20 ft away, theres a shadow in between the light beam where the two cutoffs are.. is that normal?? i thought its supposed to be a straight line between the two beams/cutoffs..
Like the gap between the 2 focal points in this picture? If so, that may be related to the HID bulb being seated improperly.. see the hotspot of the left one being much lower.
Another thing I've read can happen on the Mini H1 is the solenoid tip casting a shadow. Afaik, the solution to that is to take off the Minis and sand down the solenoid tip. Or is it something different from the 2 I mentioned?
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:34 PM   #24
ENY169
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thats actually what i had to do to adjust the beam horizontally. its close to where i want it so its good for now until it starts warming up here

k do u see the step of the cutoff from the drivers headlight? why is there a gap or shadow in between that and the pass headlights cutoff? from what i've seen, its supposed to be a continuous straight line starting where it steps up from the drivers side
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:09 PM   #25
satrya
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k do u see the step of the cutoff from the drivers headlight? why is there a gap or shadow in between that and the pass headlights cutoff? from what i've seen, its supposed to be a continuous straight line starting where it steps up from the drivers side
It's probably because the HID bulb is not seated properly, causing the beam pattern to not cover that area. Note that the hotspot from the drivers side beam is too low and slightly to the left of the "step". My guess is that this shifts the light distribution just enough that the gap doesn't have enough light.

On mine, I pushed the ballast cap (that connects to the back side of the HID bulb) around until the hot spot is right at that "step". After that, the gap disappears.
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