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Old 06-04-2009, 10:25 AM   #51
RexTexWagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ix8vii View Post
Have you heard of a 10 Second Civic They're not meant for drag either.


That post was complete sarcasm, as he is building quite the drag subaru IIRC


Will be sure to post my sarcasm tags next time
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:48 PM   #52
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I cought the sarcasm.

My car is comming along, like all builds it has had some hickups.
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:51 PM   #53
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I'm wondering how much camber will be effected by the additional suspension travel/squat. This won't do much good if the rear tires are not flat on the ground.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:48 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Illusive View Post
I think you need to do some reading. google it.
Actually, I think its you who needs to do some reading. Google it.
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:55 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by bucket7788 View Post
I'm wondering how much camber will be effected by the additional suspension travel/squat. This won't do much good if the rear tires are not flat on the ground.
That's why there are means of adjusting rear camber...however it would still require dialing in the 'right amount' of camber for your given suspension. Which the camber curve/gain would be most dependant upon your ride height, assuming you still have factory roll centers.

I think that would be a relatively minor issue for the majority of street/strip setups.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:53 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Actually, I think its you who needs to do some reading. Google it.
No, for real... you need to do some reading! Google it.

<--- Someone who "unhooks" his 27-29mm FSB... Because his car is too stiff and not set-up for drag racing.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:29 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Actually, I think its you who needs to do some reading. Google it.
are people that ignorant to drag racing? how old are you and how long have you been drag racing?

a basic concept / article for the noobs

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/t...ons/index.html
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:27 PM   #58
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iirc the front sway in the TTA was 40mm. The thing was HUGE and lookd like it would crush you when you unbolt it... Till you realize it was hollow
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:29 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Actually, I think its you who needs to do some reading. Google it.
These guys you are telling to do research... Are probably some of the most knowledgable guys around here.

Trust me... they know what they are talking about.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:31 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Illusive View Post
are people that ignorant to drag racing? how old are you and how long have you been drag racing?

a basic concept / article for the noobs

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/t...ons/index.html
Are you so ignorant as to think that these cars have wet noodle frames from 30 years ago? Moreover, you should try adjusting any number of things such as rear spring rate, damping and tire size/sidewall stiffness before you start unhooking bars. I mean, honestly, have you looked at the amount of suspension travel under an STI lately?

Jesus Christ, get a clue.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:32 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UFOpilot View Post
^

You could try some vasoline in your eyes.
or other stinky like substance
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:33 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Are you so ignorant as to think that these cars have wet noodle frames from 30 years ago? Moreover, you should try adjusting any number of things such as rear spring rate, damping and tire size/sidewall stiffness before you start unhooking bars.

Jesus Christ, get a clue.


So... you think its easier to swap out springs... as opposed to unbolting a swaybar?

Are you drunk or high? Or both?



Quote:
Another simple dragstrip tip to improve weight transfer is to disconnect or remove the front sway bar, which allows the front end to come up quicker and with less resistance to rise. The quick fix is to just unbolt the end-link bushings, but it’s better to remove the entire bar to reduce weight.

Its old school low buch tech... that has been proven to work about 25346457 years ago. How it works on a new awd car is arguable but its not really the point. The point is its a proven effective way to improve times with no investment at all.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:35 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6TurboTA View Post


So... you think its easier to swap out springs... as opposed to unbolting a swaybar?

Are you drunk or high? Or both?
I could move from suspension to suspension in less than 2 hours. Thats the proper way to do it. Hell, if I was just changing rear springs, it would be less than an hour, wheels down to wheels down.

Quote:
While the body rotates from left to right (clockwise as viewed from the rear), the rear axlehousing rotates in exactly the opposite direction.
In response to your edit, there are these wonderful things called independent rear suspensions.

Seriously, this isnt the 1960's.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:37 PM   #64
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Or 2 minutes and one tool to unbolt the sway when you get to the track, and another 2 to bolt it back up after?
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:39 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by V6TurboTA View Post
Or 2 minutes and one tool to unbolt the sway when you get to the track, and another 2 to bolt it back up after?
And that changes what exactly? Im not talking about a 1960's wet noddle Nova. Im talking about an STI.

Please, if you think it changes so much, explain. Im telling you from personal experience with my WRX, it doesnt.

P.S. Its two tools.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:40 PM   #66
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You took out the sway to no effect? What type of experiments did you do with it in versus out to conclude this?
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:40 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by V6TurboTA View Post

How it works on a new awd car is arguable but its not really the point.
Actually, that is the point of this thread, isnt it?
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:41 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Are you so ignorant as to think that these cars have wet noodle frames from 30 years ago? Moreover, you should try adjusting any number of things such as rear spring rate, damping and tire size/sidewall stiffness before you start unhooking bars. I mean, honestly, have you looked at the amount of suspension travel under an STI lately?

Jesus Christ, get a clue.
Answer my questions and read the article. Enough drabble.

*edit* also put into perspective that this thread is about modifying the rear end squat to improve 60' times with a cheap and simple easy to install mod.

Then put that into context about how cheap and simple it is to do the same thing with removing the front sway bar.

people get so worked up and have something to prove its pretty rediculous.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:44 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6TurboTA View Post
You took out the sway to no effect? What type of experiments did you do with it in versus out to conclude this?
I had both sways in for one set of runs, sways out for one set a few weeks later. This was during the summer and I took the sways out for AutoX while I waited for different bars.

Yes, it has an effect on spring frequency and camber retention when turning, as one would expect. It had absolutely zero effect on 60ft times.

What Im saying is that in an AWD car with, at best, 2" of free travel before hitting the bump stops, unbolting the swaybar wont do anything. You have to actually lift the front end enough to bind the arms (post #40).
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:45 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Illusive View Post
Answer my questions and read the article. Enough drabble.
I read the article. This isnt the 1960's, and these arent wet noodle frames. Try answering my questions.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:46 PM   #71
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so.......can we get proof that said car was running consistent 1.6 60's before, and then some proof of consistent 1.4's? And preferably a video so we know the car didnt stage the rear tires And some more proof that nothing else was changed on the car....

Quote:
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
P.S. Its two tools.
you and v6?
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:48 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
so.......can we get proof that said car was running consistent 1.6 60's before, and then some proof of consistent 1.4's? And preferably a video so we know the car didnt stage the rear tires And some more proof that nothing else was changed on the car. And while youre at it, can we get some logs?
*cough*

Im disappointed I had to add this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
you and v6?


Actually, I think its a 12mm wrench and whatever size allen wrench fits.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:49 PM   #73
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You took out the sways and Auto-x'd it? Thats the proof huh?

Alllllrightythen!!!
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:51 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6TurboTA View Post
You took out the sways and Auto-x'd it? Thats the proof huh?

Alllllrightythen!!!


Quote:
I had both sways in for one set of runs, sways out for one set a few weeks later.
Speaking of drag racing, before I said a word about AutoX would lead one to believe that I was, in fact, talking about drag racing.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:53 PM   #75
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you and v6?
well played! Nice Ninja edit too I might add!
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