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Old 06-12-2009, 02:24 PM   #1
BlueSubeDude
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2006 WRX TR

Default Plugging Secondary Air Pump

I have an 06 WRX TR getting a Stage 2 protune. My tuner indicated that I was running way too lean for my boost levels based on what he's seen in 06/07's.

The thing is, I got a CEL p2444 indicating that the Secondary Air Pump is stuck on. I pulled the relay on the air pump, and I was still running lean during the tune. So it seems that one of the secondary air valves is stuck open, allowing extra air to be sucked into the exhaust when I'm flooring it.

Would I solve the lean problem by plugging the hose right at the airpump before the "T" to the valves and pulling the relay on the pump? I don't want to delete the entire system with block off plates or replacing the valves because it'll cost extra money. I'm hoping that plugging the hose right at the air pump will prevent the open valves from allowing additional air to be sucked into the exhaust. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
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Last edited by BlueSubeDude; 06-12-2009 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:35 PM   #2
Ysidro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSubeDude View Post
I have an 06 WRX TR getting a Stage 2 protune. My tuner indicated that I was running way too lean for my boost levels based on what he's seen in 06/07's.

The thing is, I got a CEL p2444 indicating that the Secondary Air Pump is stuck on. I pulled the relay on the air pump, and I was still running lean during the tune. So it seems that one of the secondary air valves is stuck open, allowing extra air to be sucked into the exhaust when I'm flooring it.

Would I solve the lean problem by plugging the hose right at the airpump before the "T" to the valves and pulling the relay on the pump? I don't want to delete the entire system with block off plates or replacing the valves because it'll cost extra money. I'm hoping that plugging the hose right at the air pump will prevent the open valves from allowing additional air to be sucked into the exhaust. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

I had to replace my valves twice. Thank god it was under warranty otherwise, it would of cost me $600-700 for parts and labor.
Now Im thinking of the possibility of a 3rd, 4th, 5th time failure once the warranty runs out. Im going to become a slave to the stealership everytime it fails. So, I just plug it.

The quickest way to do it is, unplug the harness on the valve under the intake manifold but leave the valve under the intercooler plug because it has a pressure sensor. Buy a plate from KStech http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-Ai...ete/Categories

Block the hose coming from the valve under the intercooler with the plate.
Make sure its nice and tight. Use permatex copper gasket to help the seal.
Make sure theres no exhaust leak. Then get your tuner to disable the cel code, and your all good.

I have read a few thread about the seconday air that it only blows air at cold start. But, I noticed the valves also opens during acceleration at 2k-3k rpm. Maybe its just malfunction. Im not sure.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:10 PM   #3
copperfoxf5
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Default

I know this post is a little dated since the original, but I have a couple questions. I have a 2006 Impreza WRX, just over 60k miles. I just had repairs done for the secondary air intake valves. In order of events, my indicator light first came on for the left valve. I brought my car into a shop, and they tested the valve by blowing air through it. At that time, it was opening and closing. Around 2 and a half weeks later, the light came back on. I wanted to bring it in for repair, but I couldn't bring my car in right away. I was told that the check engine light only indicated that at some point the valve wasn't closing, and that it should be ok to drive for a while.

I put around another 1000 miles on the car, and then I brought it in. The valve was replaced, but then I was told that it had rusted to the point that it wasn't opening or closing at all. While my car was at the shop an actuator wire was either severed or fried during replacement. Then, the repair shop told me that the right valve was also rusted and needed replaced (at this point, I'm wondering if I got scammed). Anyway. I asked if there was any permanent damage that would affect performance. They told me that both valves were stuck open, and that the turbo shouldn't be affected. I tested my car on the freeway, and I'm wondering whether acceleration feels a little sluggish or not. I would presume that there doesn't need to be any tuning done after a valve replacement, but I could be wrong. Any troubleshooting suggestions, or am I just paranoid?
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:53 AM   #4
06worx
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Hey i had the same problem and im thinking of block off plates
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:42 PM   #5
Henriksen
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I would just do block off plates and tune out the codes, its what I did. Its a real pita if you've never pulled your intake mani before but its for sure worth the peace of mind knowing it won't ever happen again...
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:22 AM   #6
StealthTL
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Just did mine - didn't even need the block-off plates, the hole in each head is roughly 7mm, just threaded it to 8mm and put a bolt in each head port.
Downside is you pretty much have to take the turbo out to get at the right side head....

Using a Cobb programmer, so downloaded the Cobb AP Race program and deleted all the airpump system CELs.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:55 PM   #7
06worx
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Anyway to get rid of codes by using a tactrix cable
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:40 PM   #8
05-rsx
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Air wont be "sucked into" the exhaust via 'stuck open' secondary air valves.

The exhaust is a high-pressure area, outside is not. It's the very thing that drives the turbo.
If anything, exhaust will escape 'backwards' out them.


Your lean issues are caused by something else.

*EDIT: Ah crud, just realised the OP posted this in '09.

-------------

To the thread digger (Not a 100% relevant thread, but close, and kudos for searching!)
If they're stuck open, you'll hear it.
I unplugged and removed my pump and LHS hardware. Forgot to unplug the RHS valve. Next cold start it make a terrible racket as exhaust escaped out the valve - it was like someone had punched a hole in the exhaust of a tractor (which is essentially what it'd be if stuck open)

Last edited by 05-rsx; 06-29-2012 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:04 PM   #9
Uncle Scotty
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stuck open is bad

stuck closed on an 06 is SIMPLE....take out a relay and a fuse and kill the codes and done

there is a HUGE thread on this
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:36 PM   #10
vroompssh
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if anyone wants to sell there stuck open valves or stuck closed one i will buy
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:24 PM   #11
SubiMashinTime
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06 WRX, 52,xxx miles. I have P2433, P2431, & P2444 all showing right now. I haven't taken it to the dealer after reading that they want $1300-$1600 to fix. Also seen that it will prolly fail again even if they do 'goodwill' warrenty fix on it. I've found blocking plates for about $40 and if I can get someone to delete the codes I'm hoping this will eliminate my problems. I'm also wondering if I can just get the block off plates installed without removing the whole system??
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:13 PM   #12
Uncle Scotty
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***bangs head on wall seeing so many stupid people out there*****
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:53 AM   #13
my06wrx
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Default

This **** def takes some time to understand. Uncle Scotty broke it down for me. But i can see how frustrating it can be to see new people talk about this every day. What I've picked up is the following: wait till its stuck closed, remove the fuze, block it off, and get a pro tune to delete the codes.

I also have a thread on this that may help:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2444386

Last edited by my06wrx; 12-25-2012 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:13 PM   #14
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my06wrx View Post
This **** def takes some time to understand. Uncle Scotty broke it down for me. But i can see how frustrating it can be to see new people talk about this every day. What I've picked up is the following: wait till its stuck closed, remove the fuze, block it off, and get a pro tune to delete the codes.

I also have a thread on this that may help:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2444386
d00000000000d....there IS NO 'BLOCK IT OFF' FOR THE 2006 WRX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

this is one of the simplest things you can do.......ya disable the system from operating by removing the fuse and kill the codes

it can be done in less than 10 minutes
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:46 AM   #15
my06wrx
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don't forget the tune to erase the codes, or you will be resetting your ecu 3 times a week, right scotty LOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:24 PM   #16
twoolverton06
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Default HELP! Loss of boost with CEL P2433 and P2431. . .

Hey guys this is my first post here, so here it goes. I own a 2007 WRX Limited 4EAT, and i recently had a CEL of P2433 and P2431 pop off, both relating to the secondary air injection system. I tried clearing the CEL with my AP, but it is not clearing. I have checked the connections on the valves and both are tight. I also went from running 15 lbs of boost to 3.5 lbs max. Any help on this would be awesome. My mods are invidia catless dp, and COBB Accessport V2, stage 2 oct 91. Thanks!
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:19 PM   #17
JonnyV2889
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OBP

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Not sure what code is closed and open w/o looking but either do what was listed above or buy delete plates. Either way you'll need the codes disabled. I have a spare set of plates if you're interested.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:36 PM   #18
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoolverton06 View Post
Hey guys this is my first post here, so here it goes. I own a 2007 WRX Limited 4EAT, and i recently had a CEL of P2433 and P2431 pop off, both relating to the secondary air injection system. I tried clearing the CEL with my AP, but it is not clearing. I have checked the connections on the valves and both are tight. I also went from running 15 lbs of boost to 3.5 lbs max. Any help on this would be awesome. My mods are invidia catless dp, and COBB Accessport V2, stage 2 oct 91. Thanks!
there

is

a

H U G E

thread

here

on

this

find

it

read

it


love it
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