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Old 06-25-2009, 02:01 PM   #1
morrocco88
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Rotated BW S256 6speed

Default 04 wrx into 97' LGT with 2.1 Stroker and DOM 2.5

I figured I would start a thread about my swap. I've been in the AFI world with an EJ20G long block with my NA manifold, sensors and ECU on it, and making it run with a PP6 to start and ending up with the Emanage Ultimate and making a decent 240 HP/TQ on Surgeline's Mustang Dyno running a VF28 turbo.

I really wanted to get all the good stuff that comes with a factory Turbo ECU and all the easy upgrades that come with a factory based setup, so a swap was a natural progression. It's nice to have so much aftermarket support and be able to buy valve cover gaskets from your local dealer.

This is what my old setup used to look like:


What my car looks like right now

New wires for 04' wrx ECU hanging from the work light


Old motor hanging on display


Wiring nightmare/project - It's not that bad and looks scarier than it is, notice I stole the wife's stawberry blanket to kneel on while wiring


I definately would not be doing this if I had not gained all the wiring experience with my PP6 and the EMU. Once you get used to reading the factory diagrams it's really quite easy to figure stuff out. There are only about 25 wires that splice to the new wrx harness, and the rest of the old ECU stuff is removed.

I also cheated and sent my complete wrx harness to Zephyr here on the boards. He charged me $250 to strip down the wrx harness and free the ecu stuff I would need from the rest of the harness. He sent it back to me with everything labeled and a 2 page set of instructions. He also sent labels for the wires on my harness. So all I have to do is take my car apart, take the heater box out to get to the main part of the harness, unravel the tape and loom material, identify and label all the wires I will be splicing, remove the wires from the harness that will no longer be used, and then match the labels from the wrx harness to the labels on my harness and solder it up.

I probably could have figured it out on my own, but the $250 was well worth not having to spend the countless hours figuring it out myself.

I should have the wrx harness soldered in today! After the motor is in and make sure it starts and drives and there are no bugs, The motor will be coming out and then I will swap in the built long block I have sitting on the bench.

I built it on the side because the donor car for the swap had like 80K miles on it and was stock. and a stock wrx motor would be slower than I was before the swap.

The built long block is far from stock and has the following:

2.1 stroker short block:
stock sti crank and rods in 2.0 wrx block
CP forged pistons with coated skirts and ceramic coated crowns
Fully balanced and blueprinted
Cometic .040 Head Gaskets
9.0:1 CR
ARP Head Studs

Heads (2.0 wrx):
Full port job
Manley stainless Valves
Crower 264 cams
Crower valve springs and retainers
Shimless Buckets

Other stuff:
Turbo is a Blouch Dom 2.5R which is a GT3071 made to fit stock location, DW 750cc injectors, Front Mount IC, Synapse 40mm EWG

What do you think?

Block and Heads built by Maxwell Power in Arlington WA. They say it will easily handle 8500 rpms or more, If I can make power up there. I plan to run a max of 8k. I believe in over build and then run it less than designed for to get longevity out of it.

Wish me Luck!
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Last edited by morrocco88; 07-25-2009 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:20 PM   #2
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very sick man, subscribed
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:46 AM   #3
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what are you doing with your old motor?
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Old 06-30-2009, 02:54 AM   #4
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HAHAHA i was going to see if Zephyr did your harness because mine look exactly the same. The hardest part for me to understand in his directions was the bit about splicing into the FP relay that was tricky.

I am a little upset because your set up was about what I was going to go for, the whole 2.0 stroker.

IT IS A SICK build if I was in the lower 48 I'd have to come on a weekend and lend a hand just cause I really wanted a white BD but had to get a black one...
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:00 AM   #5
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Awesome build.
I have always been curious as to what is removed from the harness. Why does it take less wiring to run a turbo motor than an NA motor when they all have the same sensors and stuff. Is it because it will not be OBD2 compliant anymore so you just remove all that trash?

Anyways, bad arse build, and *Subscribed*.
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:05 AM   #6
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it's not less wires you're using all of the front harness from the turbo engine so all the connectors are there adn it's fit and clean. The wires that come through the dash and have to be wired in end up being for the FP, instrument cluster, datalink, OBDII port, and cruise control. Just the thing that are in the cockpit the rest run out the bulkhead to the engine harness...

Lmk where you mount the FMJ plug I am really curious. I tucked mine above the gas pedal
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby_guy86 View Post
what are you doing with your old motor?
Not sure yet. I might sell it, or put it in a 97' Impreza L I just scored for $600 with a siezed cam on one head. It was in the lot of a repair shop. The customer didn't want to pay to fix it so they gave it to the shop. I scoped it for over a month and then stopped and asked to buy it one day. They wanted $700, I offered $600 and they took it

Quote:
Originally Posted by greenspeed View Post
Lmk where you mount the FMJ plug I am really curious. I tucked mine above the gas pedal
I haven't routed the SMJ wiring yet. I have all my splices done, the fuel pump harness ran to it's final local, and just need to do the OBD plug wires. Then I will actually route the SMJ harness the rest of the way. Right now its secured above the white square harness holder and draped over towards the drivers side and OBD plug. I will post some more pictures tomorrow. I also have to ground that one wire (Violet/Pin 3) from the fuel pump relay to the ground wire on the main relay. The way I understand it is to just cut the wire a few inches away from the relay and tap it into that ground wire (Black/Pin 1) on the main relay which is right next to the Fuel pump relay. Is that what you did?

Does the cruise work on your car? I have to have working cruise because I live in the sticks and have to drive over 100miles on the freeway to get to any meets, Dynos, ect. I got creative and made it work after I took the Auto tranny out and swapped it to a 5 speed. That also made this swap a little tricky with all the AT wiring still in the harness.

Updates and more pics to come, stay tuned!
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:04 PM   #8
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More pics as promised.

The wires are just about complete. I have them routed nice and clean and all smooth like. Once I confirm everything works, I will do the final wrap and tuck.

This shows the splices with the labels on the wires, and the SMJ section running along the top of the white harness holder.


Here is the engine bay with all the old ECU wires gone leaving the wires for the Cruise pump, A/C pressure switch ect. Also see the new wrx wire branch which has the MAF, Boost Control Solenoid, ect.


This is the Fuel pump harness section. This is right under the passenger side of the rear seat. You can see the plug that sends power to the fuel pump, well that is cut and spliced (power and ground) to the Fuel Pump Controller, and then the power and ground wires coming from the FPC splice to the plug that sends it to the Fuel Pump. Notice the OCD kicking in with the Red and Black heat shrink to identify power and ground


And all finished and laying nice and flat and tidy.


Here you can see where I mounted the FPC. I used an existing hole and drilled a second one to match up with the two mounting studs on the FPC, then secured it with two nuts. The wiring will get taped down and trunk liner re-installed.


More to come later tonight!
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:39 PM   #9
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Notched your cross member aye? I guess that's easier than sourcing & swapping a turbo one . Looks good so far keep the flow going !
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:01 AM   #10
morrocco88
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Yeah notching the cross member was done when I did the EJ20G long block setup. I was going to source a turbo one, but Rallitek told me to just notch it. I talked to their tech and he told me how to go about it. I had the welder and skills, so I just went for it. I had to modify it three times and drop the motor in three times to get it right, but eventually got it right. It's plenty strong and would have no problems doing it again.

I'm still working on some of the little wiring issues like reverse lights and Neutral position and cruise control. The car was originally an Auto tranny and so there was a whole bunch of TCU wiring to remove and deal with the wiring differences between an AT and MT car. I had the cruise and reverse lights working after the MT swap, but never had the neutral switch taken care of. With the newer wrx ECU, I want everything to be perfect and working as factory.

I will have more pics in future progress reports.
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Old 07-09-2009, 01:19 PM   #11
morrocco88
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Update: I have all the wiring done and have the Neutral switch and reverse lights sorted. I also did some re-routing of some wires to make the install look as clean as possible. The two main branches on the right side of the engine bay will be tight to the firewall and nice and straight and clean. I will have pics after I do the final tape and tuck.

I dropped the stock wrx motor in last night. This will be to test fire and check the wiring, and also do some test fitting of other systems and components.

Now some pics:

This shows the SMJ branch of wires on the drivers side. I took off all the tape to free the existing wires from the rubber boot and then slit the boot a ways to pass through the connectors. I found it was super easy after I sprayed some silicone spray on the inside of the boot. The silicone dried and then the connectors just slid right through with ease. I also found it was easier to pass the three conctors you see here, rather than the two larger plugs that connect to the engine.


Here you can see the SMJ branch coming out of the boot and following the existing wires to the engine bay


And into the engine bay


Iwas surprised to see the bracket on the Grimmspeed BCS matched up perfectly to the two holes that used to hold the atmospheric pressure sensor.


Got the power steering lines swapped over and the remote res. mounted


The motor in for it's test fire and to have a looksy




Hopefully it starts! I will report back.
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:57 PM   #12
morrocco88
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Update: Did some mocking up while the motor was in and have a good handle on how I'm going to route my FMIC pipes and where my intake is going to sit.

I also got the 05' LGT tranny back together after getting the new custom speedo gear installed. Don't use some of the part numbers floating around the boards from people that say they work, because they don't. I went through 2 plastic speedo gears before Jodie at Rallispec hooked me up with the proper gear. Thanks Jodie!

Here it is all cleaned and ready to slide under the car. I love doing this on my back


I also got the up pipe on so I can start fab on the EWG. I plan on re-routing it back into the down pipe, but all the way down at the end of the pipe. This will be an attemp to get the VTA benefits without the noise.

This is an Invida up-pipe I got as partial payment for color matching an STI spoiler for a guy. The same guy that wrecked his car just months after I painted it, and then bought all these swap parts from said car. This pic also shows where the wrx P.S. lines attach to my stock hard lines on the steering rack.




I ordered a Grimmspeed high flow cross pipe, and will port the manifolds myself and then ceramic coat everything including the up and down pipe when I'm done. I'm going to use the Techline Coatings Turbo X black. It's made for turbo housings and can withstand 2000*. You just have to sand blast the parts with 120 grit aluminum oxide media and then spray it on and it cures with the first heat cycle. It's $140 a quart, but will be enough to do all my exhuast stuff and my intake, TGV's, and FMIC pipes.

Oh, and I almost forgot: IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After getting the tranny in and mounting the starter, I plugged everything in and turned the key. I first heard the fuel pump cycle like it should, so I cycled it a few times to get pressure, and then turned it to start and it cranked twice and fired right off!!!

I'm really excited it all worked after all that wiring. Now I can start the final wire taping and tucking to it's final location. Then start puting the interior back together. I'm going to fab up everything I need to for the built motor and then drive it on this motor so I can start tuning the wastegate to get my mechanical boost pressure dialed in. I just want to get everything sorted so I don't have to worry and everything is right for breaking in the new motor. Well, back to the shop to get some more work done.

Last edited by morrocco88; 08-20-2009 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:37 AM   #13
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Very nice, Ill be watching this one. Plus 12345...Z does excellent work.
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Old 07-18-2009, 02:55 PM   #14
morrocco88
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Yes he does great work. He answered his phone everytime I called to ask a couple questions. I only called him twice to clarify a couple things, but it was nice to get him right off the bat. I think he should re-word his directions in a couple spots to make it easier to understand though. All in all it was money well spent, as it saved me countless hours. You do still need a good understanding of how electrical works, and how to read factory diagrams.

Oh, and the OBD plug works too. I scanned the ecu after I started it and it showed me 6 trouble codes so far. I'm making a list to have them turned off on the tune.

More pics to come as I get more work done.
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Old 08-05-2009, 06:20 PM   #15
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A little more progress, but it has been slow due to work and stuff around the house, and I can't forget this crazy heat wave we've been having for the last 2 weeks. It's been over 100* forever. Some days were 105*. It was hard to work in the shop after working all day in that heat.

Anyways, heres some more pics:

All the wires taped up and looking good.






Started mocking up the FMIC pipes and the Cobb SF intake (larger MAF housing)


This is the wires in the engine bay, all tight against the firewall


I tried to make it look as clean as possible, and I think it turned out, it looks better than in the pics, I swear


I also got a wild hair and did something both impulsive, crazy and awesome all at the same time.......

I just bought a V8 JDM 6 speed swap with everything right down to the hubs/knuckles and Brembo's, and I'm kinda freaking out about it right now, but at the same time, I'm really excited

That was the final piece of the puzzle. I can finally just drive and make lots of power without the constant worry of the transmission. Sponaugle has one of these in his H6 turbo wrx making like 550 wtq and it has been holding fine, so I should be good to go!

I know the 05' LGT tranny was supposed to be good to 350 wtq, but I just thought it would be better to sell it while it's in cherry condition, then to break it, and then buy a 6 speed. I guess I was planning ahead. I just finished installing the custom speedo gear from Rallispec too, and bought a ACT pressure plate good for 420 ft lbs. Maybe someone is interested in this tranny so I could re-coupe some money?
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #16
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congrats man, the car is coming along nicely...

the luxury of an LGT and brutal power as well
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:29 AM   #17
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love to see another legacy doing it big! i hope (i actually hope) to have have a swapped lego once my engine dies, i hope just a direct 02 wrx motor, with everything and wiring harness wont be too complicated and i wont run into that many problems. but your build looks great thus far! cannot wait to see the sexy 6 speed in the cockpit!
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:11 AM   #18
morrocco88
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Thanks! I'm trying to get everything done so I can swap in the built long block and get enough time to break it in. I want to have it done before the weather gets nasty again and be on the dyno by mid october.

Now I added swap the entire drivetrain to my list

I'm also waiting on my buddy to clear some work space in his shop so I can have access to his TIG welder for all my stainless EWG stuff, and the aluminum IC pipes.

I'm super excited for the JDM 6 speed. I think the short gearing with an 8k red line will make her haul ass. I would like to go do some autocross or maybe some track days too, so this will be a perfect fit.

More pics to come when I make more progress.
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:19 AM   #19
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Oh man, I tell you, I had most of the parts (JDM STi Ver8 motor, JDM STi Ver7 6MT nonDCCD, brake package, suspension, all wiring, odds-n-ends) ready to go...just needed to find that 95 Legacy wagon that was solid to put it all in...project got wayyyy to big for my britches. Had to sell most of it off.

....oh, to have heard that JDM 2.0L scream with the VF37 pushing it would have been magical!

Hat's off to you morrocco, very neat and methodical as I would have pulled it off, and well thought out. You are absolutely correct about the wiring...once you read and understand the diagrams, t'ain't nothing to do a swap. Been there, done the wiring part (stripped down an 03 WRX complete wiring).

Gonna be a mean BD6!
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:37 AM   #20
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Oh, and go for the Subaru Extra-S in the 6MT.
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:54 PM   #21
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Oh, and go for the Subaru Extra-S in the 6MT.
+1 best gear oil ever.
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:00 AM   #22
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A little more progress finally. I took a break from it for a while to let the wife cool off after finding out I bought the 6 speed swap

LGT tranny kit is officially up for sale, so tell your friends. I was thinking of keeping it for another car, but just have too many parts and the wife is freaking out now

Anyways, got some work done on the I/C and trimmed some bumper.

29"x9"x3" seemed like a good size



The bumper trimmed to almost done and to have a look. I was really shocked at how wide the opening is on a Legacy bumper, and would rather not see the end tanks at all, but it will be painted stealth black, so I doubt you'll notice when it's done. I'm a big fan of seeing nothing but fins, but it's too late now. I think it looks pretty good.



And just for fun I had to bolt a brembo inside one of my wheels to see how much it would fill the gap I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them gold, or paint them a more stealthy black or silver. I'm also buying new rotors for them, probably slotted stop techs.



And the V8 6 speed . I think the short gears and the stroker block will get this thing into boost quick, and then I will have the high redline to really wind her up and get a great power band. I'm really excited!



I have a ton of work to do, and I'm feeling like I won't get it done before winter hits. I'm going back at it full swing though and we'll see where I end up. I need to get it at least driveable in the next 60 days to test the 6 speed during the warranty period, but I'm not too worried becasue all the parts are nice and clean and the tranny shifts really smooth and easy just sitting on the ground.

I will update again soon.
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:15 AM   #23
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that looks great, i'd paint wheels white like the car and brembos black with white stickers
keep up the good work man whole thing looks amazing!!
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:18 PM   #24
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^^^ Thanks!

I've thought about doing white wheels before, but it just seems so late 80' early 90's . Half of me wants to try to make them stealthy looking so you have to look to notice them, and the other half wants to do flat black wheels with blinging gold screaming "Hey look at my Brembos". I might just leave the wheels the silver color and do either fresh gold, or a stealthy black or silver.

Thanks again for the compliments!
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:10 PM   #25
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Just thought I would add one more pic, which is one of my favorites.

On the dyno at Surgeline


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