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Old 04-02-2013, 12:23 AM   #576
1x2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chenzonies View Post
you need a 5mm for the belt guide
Hey, thanks for posting- got one in my hex socket set. Good caution tip on your following post about the bolt thru the plastic rear cover, too. Glad your swaps worked out!
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:33 PM   #577
Tiller35
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I posted this in the video thread and I figured it wouldn't hurt to post here too...

I am having problems with the passenger side lower cam gear. Its not rotating by hand. Any suggestions of what can be done to make it rotate successfully or any knowledge of what could be wrong with it?

Its an 07 WRX and the engine was in working condition when removed last year.

Also, is the picture of the number of teeth in step 10 for 2.0L 2.5L or both?
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:05 AM   #578
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiller35 View Post
I posted this in the video thread and I figured it wouldn't hurt to post here too...

I am having problems with the passenger side lower cam gear. Its not rotating by hand. Any suggestions of what can be done to make it rotate successfully or any knowledge of what could be wrong with it?

Its an 07 WRX and the engine was in working condition when removed last year.

Also, is the picture of the number of teeth in step 10 for 2.0L 2.5L or both?
are the sparkplugs in the heads???

if so, take them out and see if there may be liquid in the cylinder
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:11 AM   #579
Tiller35
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thank you for the reply. I will be home tomorrow and I can check then. What does it mean if there is or is not liquid in the cylinder?
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:25 PM   #580
Jarrod164
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I read through the first few pages and last few but I still have some questions!

I'm strictly looking at removing the oil pump to replace the oring and re-seal as I think this is the source of my oil leak. When everything is lined up and the belt is removed, I'm supposed to remove the crank bolt. Will this not move the pistons and is there cause for concern of hitting valves? Or are all the valves closed and I should not to worry about moving the crank at all. Or am I supposed to clamp the sprocket and then loosen the crank bolt?

Also in the video, all the idlers are removed, I assume this is because they are being replaced. As I said, just looking at getting to the oil pump, can I leave most idlers on (aside from maybe the one with the pin that should be compressed)?

Thanks for any help!

Last edited by Jarrod164; 05-08-2013 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:56 PM   #581
dLo R6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrod164 View Post
I read through the first few pages and last few but I still have some questions!

I'm strictly looking at removing the oil pump to replace the oring and re-seal as I think this is the source of my oil leak. When everything is lined up and the belt is removed, I'm supposed to remove the crank bolt. Will this not move the pistons and is there cause for concern of hitting valves? Or are all the valves closed and I should not to worry about moving the crank at all. Or am I supposed to clamp the sprocket and then loosen the crank bolt?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but since you should have already aligned everything to TDC before taking off the belt, it shouldn't be an issue since all the valves will be closed.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:58 PM   #582
dLo R6
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THANKS MEATY for this DIY. it saved me $600 in labor and was a hell of a lot easier than I had expected. at 115k miles it turned out my timing belt was still perfectly fine (still replaced it) but i hadn't checked my accessory or AC belts in some time and man those ones were dying.

Overall if I could give you some e-form of props I would.
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:14 PM   #583
ripman
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Is it ok to hold those drivers side cam pulleys in place with some vise grips with just enough tension on them when you remove the old belt?
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:42 AM   #584
recce02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripman View Post
Is it ok to hold those drivers side cam pulleys in place with some vise grips with just enough tension on them when you remove the old belt?
You can... but a better tool would be a padded sprung clamp. Think of an automotive chip clip.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:50 AM   #585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripman View Post
Is it ok to hold those drivers side cam pulleys in place with some vise grips with just enough tension on them when you remove the old belt?
Dude, just don't do vise grips. Don't risk doing what I did. Look at post # 548. I thought they had "just enough tension on them" and, for about 3 minutes, they did. Then the gear just spontaneously broke without me touching anything.
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:13 PM   #586
ripman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tominator19 View Post
Dude, just don't do vise grips. Don't risk doing what I did. Look at post # 548. I thought they had "just enough tension on them" and, for about 3 minutes, they did. Then the gear just spontaneously broke without me touching anything.
Thanks. That is very good to know.

Last edited by ripman; 05-30-2013 at 03:25 PM. Reason: grammer
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:15 PM   #587
Hans Moleman
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Last year I changed the timing belt using this guide. Before removing the timing belt, when I aligned the cam gears, the bottom gears wouldn't line up perfectly to the notches on the back timing cover and the upper cam gears. When I installed the new timing belt, I aligned everything to the marks on the new timing belt and the engine ran perfectly.

Now I have to take everything apart again because the oil pump is leaking. I guess I didn't re-seal correctly so I have to do it again. I want to re-use the timing belt because it's still pretty new. But since I can't align the cam gears perfectly before removing the timing belt and the marks are gone from the timing belt, what is the best way to do this?
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:20 PM   #588
RP31
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When I was in a similar situation I just marked the spot on the belt where it met the crank gear at TDC, and did smaller marks for reference at all of the points on the cam gears. Pulled it off, and then counted teeth for all of the positions using the image on the first page, and drew them back on with a marker.

I have never counted something so many times repeatedly. In the end it worked just fine.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:29 PM   #589
rick-l
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I could still see remnants of the marks on my OE belt when I changed it. Find one mark and then find the others / verify it by counting teeth according to the service manual.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1587945
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:20 AM   #590
my0six
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Hello all. Just spent the last three days reading this whole thread, looking forward to getting started.

Has anybody had any joy sourcing these parts cheap for Australia?

I spoke to the stealership and WOW, they're ambitious folk!
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:59 AM   #591
dustingwhale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrod164 View Post
I read through the first few pages and last few but I still have some questions!

I'm strictly looking at removing the oil pump to replace the oring and re-seal as I think this is the source of my oil leak. When everything is lined up and the belt is removed, I'm supposed to remove the crank bolt. Will this not move the pistons and is there cause for concern of hitting valves? Or are all the valves closed and I should not to worry about moving the crank at all. Or am I supposed to clamp the sprocket and then loosen the crank bolt?

Also in the video, all the idlers are removed, I assume this is because they are being replaced. As I said, just looking at getting to the oil pump, can I leave most idlers on (aside from maybe the one with the pin that should be compressed)?

Thanks for any help!
Is it, put it in 3rd gear w ebrake and brakes depressed?


Should the spark plugs be removed? Is it difficult to turn the crank w them in and a long enough cheater bar?

I did the tbelt on my aba VW, easy but a pita access wise - looks like tons of space w the radiator removed on these. Thanks in advance for the write up!
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:55 PM   #592
dustingwhale
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stuck on crank bolt removal.

05 xt manual
3rd gear
wife standing on breaks
breaker bar w cheater
lefty losey
the crank walks back slightly
can't get it off

pissed. What am I missing? Isn't this only to 90fy lbs?
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:08 PM   #593
Mr. Me
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Put it in 5th. Ebrake on and stand on the brakes. Worked on my 02
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:05 PM   #594
LCredit
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Are you wheels on the ground?
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:20 PM   #595
dustingwhale
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The back wheels, front is on stands..

Taking a BBQ break, thanks for the help
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #596
kbobomber89
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I work at a used car dealer and just wanted to say thank you for this walk through. Did my first timing belt on a 2002 wrx today and this helped a lot.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:14 PM   #597
AndersH04
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Hey I'm in need of some help guys doing water pump and timing belt.
I've taken the belt off and on several times trying to make all the marks line up and ended up getting everything to match as close as possible.
Once I got it to as close as I thought I could I pulled the pin and now its off by a few teeth
Should I redo everything to make it line up more?
Or just put it back together and see if its okay?
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:24 PM   #598
my0six
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Hey lads, can anybody point me in the direction of a guide to changing the cam / crank seals???
I've been searching for weeks now, have all the parts on the way, looking forward to this
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:34 PM   #599
johnblahuta88
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So I just pasted 60k and I checked the timing belt. The teeth look good and the belt has no signs of wear at all. What is a safe mileage to replace it. I have a 04 sti and only put 6k miles on it a year. Any advice will be very helpful.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:36 PM   #600
johnblahuta88
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Get the crank off by having one person prying a breaker bar against your ac compressor and have someone slightly tap the ignition. It worked for me. It's a little dangerous but it worked fine. Just toke a little bump and the bolt loosened right up.
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