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Old 11-05-2009, 01:11 PM   #101
jstalford
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I'm thinking of doing this soon too. FYI, that seller is now using Gates Blue Belts.
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:48 PM   #102
MConte05
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Just wanted to say thanks to Meaty. I did my Timing Belt and idlers and such a month or two ago and followed this guide in conjunction with the Service Manual. Was a tremendous help. Thanks!
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:03 PM   #103
Meatbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstalford View Post
I'm thinking of doing this soon too. FYI, that seller is now using Gates Blue Belts.
They sell the kits with the OEM Mitsuboshi belts too.. the Gates Blue belt is an option for a bit more $

Quote:
Originally Posted by MConte05 View Post
Just wanted to say thanks to Meaty. I did my Timing Belt and idlers and such a month or two ago and followed this guide in conjunction with the Service Manual. Was a tremendous help. Thanks!

You're welcome.. can't wait to revise it and shoot the DIY video for this sometime soon..
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:43 PM   #104
REXlover02
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Default Cam pulleys

There was a question about aligning the cam sprockets before removing the timing belt earlier in this thread. I can say there is but u gota do it carefully, where each sides cam sprockets meet at 6 and 12 o'clock u can get 2 pairs fo vice grips and lock them on each pulley(where the double lines meet up). What i did what get the vise grips and put electrical tape on the teeth so they diden't scratch the sprockets. It works really well im sure you could do it without tape but i dident want to srcatch them all up.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:27 PM   #105
JaredG
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More thanks to Meatbawl for a great guide! I just used it to put a timing kit on my 2005 WRX and it worked out great. The only thing I noticed is that the electric fan connectors on my 2005 require you to push the retaining clips inward to release instead of outward like the instructions said. Maybe they made a running change sometime.
I also used that mitsuboshi kit that Meaty mentioned. It seemed like good quality components. No complaints.
Thanks.
Jared
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:24 AM   #106
elshankos
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Hi there, Im a newbie!

So sorry if my questions are answered somewhere else or if they're seemingly daft!

Ok, so Im living in Japan and I've recently bought a 1998 3rd Gen. Legacy GT-B with 125k km on the clock. Engine: EJ20, BH5 -. Can I even ask questions here?!

Ok so I have a squeaky bearing going on somewhere within the timing belt assembly - probably the tensioner - both the dealer and I agree on this. However I dont understand the rest of what he's on about (my japanese is rubbish) and I dont want to pay some $500 (labour only) for him to replace it.

Question 1: do you think I could use this help on a legacy - is the timing belt set up pretty similar? It looks the same and I could use some info for torque specs from the Hayes guide I have.

Question 2: do you recon its worth it to replace the pullies/ other bearing parts in the assembly while I'm in there.

Ive worked on all sorts of cars with assorted not-so-big problems and Im an electrical engineer so Im quite handy but Ive never done a timing belt change so I really appreciate any help you have!

Many thanks.
Stephan
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:45 PM   #107
Meatbawl
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I don't know much about your 98 Legacy, but this information was identical for my 98 forester when I did a rebuild on it a few months ago. I recommend replacing ALL bearings, tensioner, idler pullies, and belt with new when doing the timing belt. Especially if you already have a bearing squeaking, you're bound to have to do it all over again soon if you don't change them. Even if your Legacy differs slightly behind the timing covers, the concept and procedure should be very similar, if not, identical to this one. Post up any questions you have if you decide to do it. I'm sure myself, or someone else on here will be able to help

Meaty
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Old 11-22-2009, 12:12 AM   #108
costelino
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hi im new to this forum can somebody help me with my new bugeye i got ,,,the car was involved in a flood and it got bunch of gunk in the belt compartment and i think it skipped a few teeth so it wouldn't start now im trying to install a new timing belt but i cant seem to get it right ..oh by the way its a 2002 2.5 sohc ,,what mark do i use off of the crank sprocket? and does the motor have to be TDC? when you put the timing belt on.
i put the TB on and i got no compression in 1 and 3 cylinders???

Last edited by costelino; 11-22-2009 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:31 PM   #109
Meatbawl
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Match up the pulley marks with the diagram I drew up on the main post of this thread. It may take turning the motor quite a number of times until they all line up. Look at the picture of the crank sprocket that I posted in the main post that has the red circle showing the two marks that need to line up. Placing the crank sprocket at that mark is TDC. If you are dealing with a flood car, you may want to swap out all of the bearings and probably the tensioner as well as the water could have rusted them and even ruined them.
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:20 PM   #110
costelino
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hi i did just that and what im seeing is that the piston is down or in- not out TDC???? and i did get all the idler pulleys and water pump and tensioner new from the dealer got a really good deal from the subaru dealer here in renton .
is there a way that the cam shaft is out of timing on that side of the engine just thinking out loud here???
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:34 AM   #111
rick-l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by costelino View Post
hi i did just that and what im seeing is that the piston is down or in- not out TDC???? and i did get all the idler pulleys and water pump and tensioner new from the dealer got a really good deal from the subaru dealer here in renton .
is there a way that the cam shaft is out of timing on that side of the engine just thinking out loud here???
I'm not sure the piston is at TDC with the belt in the changing position. Look at page ME-3 of the service manual volume 8
Quote:
**: The #1 piston is set at TDC on the compression stroke when the piston-position mark on the camshaft sprocket is facing directly upward
those arrows are not the alignment marks
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:29 PM   #112
costelino
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yea im not going by the arrows , i think i did everything right that meaty said ,,and im still not getting any comp. any chance theres valve damage i thought that these SOHC engine are not interference engines????
and is there a way to test for valve damage without taking everything apart?
ive been hearing about a leak down test will that work???
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:59 PM   #113
Bugstiwagon
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Might be a stupid question but how do you tell the difference between bending the valves and the cams going into lift when you trying to align the drivers side gears? Is there any way of seeing if you indeed did bent the valves or if the friction is just normal lift without starting the car and it running the engine? Also maybe on the main write up page maybe listing the oem part numbers could really help, cause for the do it yourselfer finding the oem parts on say subarugenuineparts.com is kinda difficult. Great write up!! I hope my engine is ok, im probably just paranoid cause this was my first one lol..
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Old 11-30-2009, 01:35 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugstiwagon View Post
Also maybe on the main write up page maybe listing the oem part numbers could really help, cause for the do it yourselfer finding the oem parts on say subarugenuineparts.com is kinda difficult.
I go here to look up parts.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_3/
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:49 PM   #115
Meatbawl
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I'll add the part numbers to the thread when I have a little time to look them all up. I think it takes quite a bit of force in the wrong direction to actually have a valve get bent. I don't think the engine going into "lift" mode has the necessary force or ablity to bend them. This, of course, is my opinion. I have had them try to spin in the wrong direction on their own when lining them up and never had a bent valve.
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Old 12-02-2009, 11:52 PM   #116
costelino
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update on my little problem with the timing, i took the head off and i see i have 4 bent valves and thats why i got no comp. on 1&3 now im wondering why it bent the valves since this engine is not a interference engine??? any ideas
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:15 AM   #117
04ScottWRX
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on a SOHC the valves don't interfere with eachother, but the pistons interfere with the valves. If there was a skip tooth on the pass side then there would be interference with the pistons on that side only. If its a flood car I would at least rebuild the engine. Hell, if you have the heads off you're half way there anyway. It would be worth your while to spend a few hundred smackaroons on rings, bearings, some new valves, some special tools, and a gasket kit--well probably 8-9 hundy including all the machine work....you might be able to do it for 7 if you know people. good luck dude!
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Old 12-05-2009, 12:36 AM   #118
squeethebee
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Did almost all of this tonite, finishing up by installing the belt tomorrow, I just wanted to say thanks for the write up, the direction to spin the cam gears was especially helpful.

I found using a large t-handle allen to turn the driver's side gear (only my exhaust spun, hopefully the intake doesn't when I go to install belt) makes it so much easier, and greatly lessens the chance of catching fingers, or the gear slipping out of your hands and having to have to redo it. Would never do it without one of those again.

ed
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:33 AM   #119
elviking
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Thanks for the write up. Seems fairly 'simple' but a pain in the rear.
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:57 AM   #120
squeethebee
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It's pretty straightforward, just time consuming.

ed
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:05 PM   #121
sti_95imp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meatbawl View Post
I've never heard this, and would think it's a myth or incorrect information. I would guess they meant advancing the timing via the tune or something, not by skipping teeth on the pulleys I think you're better off doing a TGV delete or exhaust/intake mod for a safe 5-10+HP instead. Anyone else able to shed light on this?
Thats Old school honda stuff. I wouldnt do it to a WRX...
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:13 PM   #122
cbean
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awesome post! Thank you Meaty...getting ready to do this on mine, this post is exactly what I was hoping to find
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:01 PM   #123
CharT
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Another big THANK YOU to Meaty for this guide. I finished my timing belt change last weekend and everything went smoothly. The car started up and idled fine.

One issue I ran into was the replacement idler 13073AA200 needed a shorter bolt (808208320 BOLT-8X45X22) than what was on the car. It's the same problem as mentioned in this post.

Besides that, the hose fitting, on the engine side, for the upper and lower radiator hoses had a lot of mineral deposits that were difficult to clean off. I have a slight leak at my lower radiator hose fitting that I need to remedy. I reused the stock clamps and tighened them "good and tight" with a 1/4" rachet. It's leaking at a rate of 1/2" per day in the coolant overflow reservoir. Any ideas that don't involve draining the coolant? I'm going to try cranking down on the hose clamps again.
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:49 PM   #124
Meatbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharT View Post
Another big THANK YOU to Meaty for this guide. I finished my timing belt change last weekend and everything went smoothly. The car started up and idled fine.

One issue I ran into was the replacement idler 13073AA200 needed a shorter bolt (808208320 BOLT-8X45X22) than what was on the car. It's the same problem as mentioned in this post.

Besides that, the hose fitting, on the engine side, for the upper and lower radiator hoses had a lot of mineral deposits that were difficult to clean off. I have a slight leak at my lower radiator hose fitting that I need to remedy. I reused the stock clamps and tighened them "good and tight" with a 1/4" rachet. It's leaking at a rate of 1/2" per day in the coolant overflow reservoir. Any ideas that don't involve draining the coolant? I'm going to try cranking down on the hose clamps again.

Thanks for the info, and your welcome on the writeup

Try double-clamping the hose. Fit two clamps as close as possible on the thermostat (or radiator, wherever it's leaking). I've done this myself with success. You might have a small tear in the rubber hose, so I recommend replacing your hoses anyway if you're still using the OEM originals. I have really taken a liking to silicone hoses
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:28 AM   #125
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Nice write up...
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