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Old 07-02-2009, 02:30 PM   #1
Hotsho111
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2005 ZX-6R

Default DIY: 30k Maintenance for Naturally Aspirated Imprezas

After doing tons of searching and not finding much information for naturally aspirated Imprezas I figured I would write up a 30k DIY.


From left to right:
1/2" Ratchet (for rear diff)
3/8" Ratchet with T-70 bit - $3.99 at Autozone for the T-70
Deep socket with extension for PCV valve and spark plugs
OEM PCV Valve - $16.83 PCV Valve Subaru Part #11810AA040
CRC MAF Cleaner - $6-8 at Autozone (can't remember)
Subaru Cooling System Conditioner - $2.75 (1 x 125mL) from Subaru
1 Gallon of Subaru Long Life Engine Coolant (Unmixed)* - $22.64 from Subaru
NGK Spark Plug Wires** - $41 Subaru Part #SOA430Q124
NGK FR5AP-11 (.38-.42 gap) - $25 Subaru Part #22401AA65A
5 Quarts of Subaru Extra S 75W/90 - $63 shipped
Purolator PureONE Oil filter (not pictured) - $8 at Advanced Auto Parts
5 quarts Amsoil 5W-30 Full Synthetic (not pictured) - $43

Total: $233.21

*I mixed it 50/50 with diluted water myself you can also buy premixed stuff but it would be more expensive because you would need 2 gallons instead of 1
**I ended up not replacing the spark plug wires after purchasing 2 sets that were OEM replacements that didn't fit and didn't want to spend $80 at a dealership. They are easy to replace and if you have any questions about it feel free to ask. For those wondering the pictures of the spark plug wires with that part number are generally these:
THESE ARE NOT THE CORRECT WIRES. The end that connects to the ignition coil are right angled.
Proper wires can be found here: http://www.kingsbornewires.com/produ...&productId=518

Transmission Fluid Change
The first thing to do is to move the intake out of the way. Remove the two screws and disconnect the hoses and you can move the air box out of the way (I left it on the intake manifold)


This is what it looks like with the airbox out of the way


Remove the rest of the intake system. The top is held on by two clips. Also unhook the cable from the MAF sensor (put this aside, we will get back to it later)


Here you can see the tranny fill hole


Next get under the car and use the T-70 bit to drain the tranny reservoir

Here you can see the tranny fill hole. The front of the car is to the left in this picture. If you look above the exhaust you can see the inner ring of the wheel and tire so you can get an idea of where it is.


The plug has a magnet on it to keep metal scrapings away from moving parts. This is what mine looked like when I took it out (I couldn't get a clear picture of it)

and after cleaning it...


Screw the plug back in and put about 3.25 quarts of tranny fluid into the fill hole and check the fill level. Add the appropriate amount to reach the full fill level. The fill level is 3.7 quarts but you probably won't be able to drain it all so you will probably put in a little less.

Rear Differential Fluid Change
Using the 1/2" ratchet unscrew the diff plugs. NOTE: Unscrew the top plug first!! If you unscrew the bottom plug and can't get the top plug out you will be left with a rear diff with no fluid in it, which is bad. I'm tall so I put the ratchet in the plug and used my leg, with me on the side of the car and my knee near the tire, to get the plugs started because I couldn't do anything else to get any leverage.
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Last edited by Hotsho111; 08-15-2010 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:30 PM   #2
Hotsho111
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Here are the plugs after I removed them. Like the transmission the bottom plug has a magnet on it. When you screw them back in make sure the plug with a magnet goes on the bottom

and after cleaning


Put the magnet plug in the bottom and fill from the top on level ground until oil comes out out of the fill hole (the diff takes .8 quarts, which is right up to the top plug) and put the top drain plug back in.

PCV Valve Change
Looking from the top of the engine the arrow points to where the PCV valve is. At the top of the picture you can see the air intake on the intake manifold and to the bottom right you can see the ignition coil


Just slide the hose off to expose the PCV valve

The old one on the right and the new one on the left


Put the new PCV valve in and reattach the hose

MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor)/IAT (Intake Air Temp Sensor) Cleaning
Get the top part of the intake that we removed at the beginning. If you look inside you can see the MAF/IAT sensor. Just unscrew it to remove it


The IAT is the bulb like shape on the left and the MAF sensor is inside the tube in the middle. In this picture you can see the IAT is dirty

This is the reverse side which is clean and what the other side will look like after cleaning it

Last edited by Hotsho111; 08-15-2010 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:31 PM   #3
Hotsho111
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Inside the tube is the MAF sensor. Do not touch the sensor!!!

Take the MAF cleaner but don't put the red hose on it. Spray the IAT and down into the tube that houses the MAF sensor. After spraying let it dry and screw it back into the intake.

Engine Coolant Change
This is the radiator drain. There is no great way to do this because if you unscrew the wing nut fluid comes out everywhere

I used a piece of cardboard to funnel the coolant

This can take up to a half hour to drain. You can also remove the radiator cap which supposedly helps it drain faster.

While that is draining remove the hose from the reservoir and remove the reservoir. It is held in by a 3 rubber plugs; 2 on the top and one on the bottom. Drain and clean the reservoir and reinstall it.



After the coolant has finished draining close the drain plug and fill from the top until fluid is near the top. Add the coolant conditioner (if you can't put all of it in that's ok because you will have a chance to add it later.


Screw the cap on and fill the reserve to the FULL level. Start the car and run it between 2000-3000 RPM's (you will have to go higher as you put in more coolant later). Run the car until the fans kick on and let the car run a little while after the fans have turned off.

Wait until the car is cool and unscrew the filler cap. BE CAREFUL the coolant may still be hot. To protect yourself put a rag over the cap and turn it to let the heat vent then unscrew it all the way. Fill the radiator to the top and reservoir to the FULL line and repeat. Keep doing this until you can't add anymore fluid. The manual says the MT takes 7.4 quarts and the AT takes 7.3 quarts. I ended up putting in about 6.25 quarts but I only drained the radiator. If you want to drain it all you will have to drain the heater core and the engine block as well.

Spark Plug Change
Start by removing the battery by unscrewing the clamp that holds it down. I unscrewed the fuse box (but didn't remove it) because it helped get to the plugs a little easier. It isn't required though. There is 1 screw on the top and 2 on the bottom and it is also attached to the car by a rubber plug

Under the battery is the tray and above it you can see the other 2 screws securing the fuse box


On the other side remove the rest of the intake system. It is held in by two screws and a rubber plug that goes into the sidewall

Last edited by Hotsho111; 08-15-2010 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:31 PM   #4
Hotsho111
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Here are the spark plug wires


Remove the plugs by pulling on the boot not the wire. It can take quite a bit to pull the plugs out. Using a deep 3/8" socket unscrew the plugs. I had to use a grabber tool to get the plugs out like this one. The first took about 5 tries, the second about 30, , but the 3rd and 4th I got on the first try. My only suggestion is to feel around the lower part of the hole to try and find the plug terminal to grab.


The old plug (Bosch Platinum's on the left) and the new NGK FR5AP-11 on the right


Put the new plugs back in and tighten to 15.2 ft/lbs or if you don't have a torque wrench hand tighten the plugs with the socket and extension and not the ratchet. Screw them in until they are snug.

Put the boots back on, you will hear 2 different pops so you can tell when they are on. They also require quite a bit of force to put back on.

Oil Change
Unscrew the drain plug to drain the oil. The oil does not fall straight down, it shoots out pretty far so place your catch can accordingly. The oil filter is where the arrow is pointing. Screw the drain plug and crush ring back in after the oil has finished draining. I got a new crush ring at the dealer which was given to me for free .


Here you can see the oil filter after it was installed. When removing the old filter try and unscrew it as quickly as possible to avoid getting oil on the exhaust pipes. Fill the new filter with the new oil and put some around the ring at the top and screw it back in. The manual says the engine oil capacity is 4.2 quarts, however this doesn't seem to take into account the oil filter. 4.8 quarts seems to be the correct amount to put in when replacing the oil and filter. You could always just put in 4 quarts and fill and check until it is full.


As a side note, I noticed this attached to the fuse box and couldn't figure out what it does. If anyone knows let me know because I'm curious.


Now just do the reverse to put everything back together. Make sure to reconnect the cable to the MAF sensor

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Also, if anyone has any input or things to add/remove let me know.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to you or your car. Even though this isn't extremely difficult do this at your own risk

Last edited by Hotsho111; 08-15-2010 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:31 PM   #5
Hotsho111
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Brake Job (Rotors/pads/flush)

First off, I'd like to give a huge thanks to KNS Brakes. I bought my pads and rotors at the same time as a friend as I was going to do her brakes and thought I needed to do mine shortly after. Turns out I didn't and when I finally did mine a year and a half later one set of pads didn't fit. I sent an email to KNS Brakes and they exchanged the pads without a problem.

From left to right:
Standard tools:
Sockets/Wrenches (17mm, 14mm, 10mm, 8mm is all you need for everything)
Breaker bar/ flat head screwdriver (one with a long thin shaft is best)
Clamps
Floor jack
Jack Stands
Water bottle (or other plastic bottle) for brake bleed
Brakes and Pads (Centric Premium rotors and Stoptech Street Performance pads): $325
Motive Power Bleeder with 0107 (Ford adpter): $68
Brake Grease (I got Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant but didn't end up using it): $15
CRC Freeze Off (for stuck bolts...I can't recommend this stuff enough)
CRC Brakleen
A few M8x1.25 bolts - the rotors have holes you can screw these into to push the rotor off. Get a couple though, or a long one you can cut down (I had to do this a few times as they got flattened from removing the rotors)

The easiest way to do this is to get all four wheels off the ground. I have pictures of how I do it but I'm short on space but the process is:
1. Engage parking brake and leave the car in gear
2. Loosen all wheel nuts
3. Jack up the front of the car (from the front jack mount)
4. Place jack stands to support front
5. Jack rear of the car (from the rear diff)
6. Place jack stands to support rear
7. Disengage parking brake (needed to work on rear brakes)

Some safety things I like to do:
1. After taking the tires off, put them under the car to protect it in case it drops.
2. Leave the jack just under the front or rear jack point.

To get it down do the reverse (lower the rear first)

Also, keep an eye out when jacking up the rear that your jack is moving. As the arm raises the jack should roll forward as it goes up. If it doesn't you could end up pulling the car backwards and off the front stands

Once your car is up off the ground and the wheels are removed pick a corner...any corner to start. I started with the fronts.

The caliper guide bolts are 14mm and the caliper mount bolts are 17mm. Unscrew the bottom caliper guide bolt and raise the caliper. I wrap a bungee cable around the strut and put it through the hole to hold it up.



Remove the old pads:



Unscrew both caliper mount bolts and support the caliper using the bungee cable. DO NOT LEAVE IT HANGING UNSUPPORTED! The caliper is heavy and you can damage the brake line.



Remove the rotor....In an ideal world it just slides off. If you live anywhere where they salt the roads, it may be a bit difficult. You can try whacking it with a hammer (I'm not a fan of this) or use the M8x1.25 screws to push it out. Screw them in and it will push the rotor off. Here are the screws in the two holes of my rotor:



A few notes about this, a few of mine were really stuck and I flattened the head enough that it wouldn't fit back into another hole so I had to cut it down. You may need to do the same so be prepared.

Spray the new rotor with some brakeleen and wipe it down. Slide the new rotor onto the hub (it should go in without any effort).

Next we will compress the front caliper pistons. For calipers with more than one piston I reuse one of the old brake pads and some clamps (I used the heavy duty irwin quick clamps...the small ones I have in the picture weren't enough to compress it).



Reattach the caliper mount and install the new pads. If you want you can put brake squeal grease between the back side of the brake pad and the shim. The stoptech ones came pre-greased. You should also slide open the guide boots to check out the grease in there. If it's dry, add some. Mine didn't need any. Here are the new installed pads.



Close the caliper and screw in the last bolt and you are done with one wheel. Congratulations! Rinse and repeat for the other front wheel.



Now on to the rears. The process is pretty much the same, except the guide bolts and mounting bolts are all 14mm and you may have to deal with the parking brake.

Unscrew the lower caliper guide bolt and remove the old pads



Unbolt the caliper from the hub and hang it using the bungee cable.

Continued on page 3

Last edited by Hotsho111; 07-09-2012 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 03:34 PM   #6
JamesWilson2
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Nice work! I had the Kingsborne wires on my '98 Impreza, great company and the wires are hand-assembled by real people in a friendly shop, I picked them up from the factory in San Diego when I lived there. Good stuff.
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Old 07-02-2009, 03:39 PM   #7
ore0690
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Thanks for the write-up.

Is changing the PCV valve recommended? The service schedule doesn't mention it at all.

Thanks,
Oren
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Old 07-02-2009, 03:44 PM   #8
Hotsho111
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From wikipedia:
It is critical that the parts of the PCV system be kept clean and open, otherwise air flow will be insufficient. A plugged or malfunctioning PCV system will eventually damage an engine. PCV problems are primarily due to neglect or poor maintenance, typically engine oil change intervals that are inadequate for the engine's driving conditions. A poorly-maintained engine's PCV system will eventually become contaminated with sludge, causing serious problems. If the engine's lubricating oil is changed with adequate frequency, the PCV system will remain clear practically for the life of the engine. However, since the valve is operating continuously as one operates the vehicle, it will fail over time. Typical maintenance schedules for gasoline engines include PCV valve replacement whenever the air filter or spark plugs are replaced.

I'm not sure if it is necessary but like most new parts, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt and it is extremely easy to replace
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:37 AM   #9
yarrgh
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you should add a breaker bar to that list for the rear diff. Mine was quite tough to get and just a short ratchet wouldn't cut it. If people are doing their own maintenance, they'd better get a torque wrench, it is so worth it.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:12 PM   #10
Hotsho111
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I actually ended up using an extension to get more leverage for the tranny drain plug but my karate approach worked for the rear diff lol
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:17 AM   #11
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I think it's actually 4.7qt of oil, not 4.2. I always put in 4.7 and it gets right up to the last hole on the dipstick.
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Old 07-07-2009, 01:57 AM   #12
Hotsho111
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I'll double check that in the morning and get back to you
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:32 PM   #13
bomber991
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Good writeup. I'm gonna go ahead and bookmark this for my bro. His 07 won't be to 30k for a while though. I think he's only got 12 to 14k on it right now.
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:55 PM   #14
Hotsho111
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Hey, I double checked the oil and it is 4.2 quarts (4.0 liters)
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:08 PM   #15
iyzmi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsho111 View Post
Hey, I double checked the oil and it is 4.2 quarts (4.0 liters)
That's weird. I changed my oil a few days ago and just went out and checked it. With 70 miles on the new oil, the 4.7qt I put in (including filling up the filter) is just under the top hole on the dipstick. I think 4.2 is not accounting for the oil filter because I have read in multiple places that it should be 4.7qt and that's the amount I've been using for all of my oil changes.

Maybe I've been reading the marks on the oil container wrong.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:12 PM   #16
Hotsho111
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I've never seen it say 4.7 anywhere and even the manual says 4.2.

Even if it is 4.2 without the oil filter I doubt the oil filter alone would take half a quart of oil to fill

Last edited by Hotsho111; 07-08-2009 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:27 PM   #17
iyzmi
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http://www.scoobymods.com/oil_change...&threadid=2085
Quote:
The 4.2 quart capacity noted in your owner's manual is for the 2004 Forester non-turbo models when just filling up the engine oil and not replacing the filter. The capacity of the non-turbo models when replacing the filter is 4.8 quarts. Turbo motors are 5 quarts with filter*
I guess I was wrong, it's 4.8, not 4.7 . And I know it's talking about the Forester, but it's the same engine so the oil specs are the same.

EDIT: Here is the original thread the quote was taken from:
http://www.scoobymods.com/my_04fores...83.html?t=2783

4.2qts would probably be enough to cover the first dip stick hole, so technically your car would run fine on that much. I like to keep mine closer to the top hole so I just put 4.5-4.8qts in.

Last edited by iyzmi; 07-08-2009 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:44 PM   #18
Hotsho111
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Does it really take half a quart of oil to fill the filter?

Who replaces oil without replacing the filter?

I'll make a note though
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsho111 View Post
Does it really take half a quart of oil to fill the filter?
When the filter is completely full, and the filter media is completely soaked, half a quart (maybe a bit less) seems plausible. Like I said before, I think Subaru put the engine's oil capacity in the manual, without accounting for the filter's capacity. I have no idea why.

Seems like people on here and other forums have emailed SOA asking about it a few times and they always reply that it takes more than 4.2 with the filter. Maybe you should email them specifically about the 2.5i for this thread since everybody else has been talking about WRXs and Foresters. I don't see why it would be any different though since the N/A Forester mentioned in the quote above uses the same engine as the 2.5i.

I guess it's kind of like saying the gas tank hold 15.9 gallons, but that doesn't account for the extra little bit of gas that could be in the fuel lines. *shrugs*

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsho111 View Post
Who replaces oil without replacing the filter?
Jiffy Lube.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:58 PM   #20
Hotsho111
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I'll send them an email and post the results here
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:16 PM   #21
Hotsho111
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I emailed SOA yesterday and this is the response I received:

Thank you for visiting the Subaru Web site and for your inquiry. The 4.2 US quarts specification is for engine oil capacity itself and does not include replacement of the filter.

I checked with our Technical Services Department for assistance with this inquiry. They advised that when replacing the engine oil and filter in your Subaru, you should put in 4 quarts. After you put in the 4 quarts, start your vehicle and let it run for a minute or two. Then, turn off your vehicle and let it cool down for a minute or two. Then, check the dipstick again and fill it more until it is full.

Thanks for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any future assistance, please feel free to contact us again.
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:23 PM   #22
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I had a hell of a time trying to get those diff plugs out, and finally resorted to the method below. There are better ways to do this, I'm sure. My method could result in serious injury to your car or yourself, but I did it anyway, without incurring either consequence. Proceed at your own risk.

Insert breaker bar (or ratchet) into drain plug, place handle to the right, about 45 degrees clockwise from horizontal. Place jack under end of breaker bar handle. VERY CAREFULLY, shielding as much of your body as possible in case the breaker bar slips out and goes flying, start raising the jack. In my case, the breaker bar still did not turn the plug, but began to lift the whole rear end of the car. So I jacked it about an inch or two up, then jumped up and down on the inside of the trunk. This started to turn the plug, but I had to repeat the jacking and jumping process about three times before the plug loosened enough that I could turn it with the wrench alone.
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:36 PM   #23
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I had a little bit of trouble with it too but took a slightly different approach. First I sprayed the diff plugs with Freeze Off (which can be found at any automotive store and probably most stores that carry auto stuff). After that I put the 1/2" ratchet into the top plug and put myself on the side of the car behind the rear tire. I had someone hold the ratchet in the drain plug while I put my foot on the side of it and used the tire to get some leverage to unscrew the plugs and it worked very well.

They can be hard to remove because it's tough to get any leverage on the plugs which is why you should remove the top one first in case you can't get the bottom one out.
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:15 PM   #24
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Fantastic thread. I am about to do my 60k on on my 2006 OBS and was trying to locate all of this information in one easy to reference thread. I also noticed the book states 4.2q for the engine oil and it seems it does not take into account the filter. Oh well, I have 5 bottles of Redline in the mail and always fill the filter up and do a soak-up before I install them.

As for the plugs, Peaty had mentioned using a magnet on the end of a wire to pull the plugs out once loosened up.

Last edited by paper_tiger; 07-23-2009 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 07-23-2009, 11:17 PM   #25
Bret_T
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by nobrainer440 View Post
Insert breaker bar (or ratchet) into drain plug, place handle to the right, about 45 degrees clockwise from horizontal. Place jack under end of breaker bar handle. VERY CAREFULLY, shielding as much of your body as possible in case the breaker bar slips out and goes flying, start raising the jack. In my case, the breaker bar still did not turn the plug, but began to lift the whole rear end of the car.
I had to do the same thing. Fortunately, it started comming loose before I had to jump in the trunk. This was the first time I've had to use a jack to loosen something.
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