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Old 06-25-2009, 11:11 AM   #1
TopEndPull
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Default If its a dropped sleeve, what do i do?

Well i've been having on going issues with my cooling system getting pressurized with normal driving and hardly seeing any boost at all. It kept overflowing out of my overflow tank so i changed out my radiator caps, checked the thermostat, burped the sytem 3 or 4 times now but last night my friend came over with a Combustion leak tester and tested the coolant in the radiator. After about 2 pumps, the liquid turned yellow indicating exhaust gas's in the coolant which would mean a cracked head, leaking head gasket, cracked blow or dropped sleeve.

I fear it maybe a dropped sleeve and if it is, what would i do?
Asking for advice on what to do here if this was the outcome.
Car idles fine, heater blows hot air, no coolant in the oil or vice versa and no smoking from the exhaust.
Could the seals on the turbo also go bad? if it did i think it would be very noticable ie lots of smoke.


mods are:
Darton sleeved EJ257 block, mains pinned, ARP fasteners and studs, crank balanced and cross drilled, Cobb oil pump, minor bowl port work on the head, Pauter rods, CP pistons (stock bore)
Perrin GT35R (t31) Kit
Perrin FMIC, Perrin Blow thru
APS Fuel rails
DW1150cc injectors
Walbro Pump
Gruppe-S UEL headers
TGV Deletes
Perrin light weight pulley
ngk one step colder plugs
3in cat back exhaust
Tial 50mm bov
zero-sports rad caps
oem radiator,hoses and thermostat.
OS tune
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Last edited by TopEndPull; 06-25-2009 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:30 AM   #2
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tear the motor down and inspect it.
If nothing is majorly wrong; deck the block.

BUT first do a compression test and/ok leak down test.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:42 AM   #3
TopEndPull
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did a compression test about 4 weeks ago and results were:

cylinder 1 145
cylinder 2 135
cylinder 3 145
cylinder 4 145

I'll do one tonight when i get home, dropping off the car tomorrow and i am going to have them do the leak down test if possible too.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:46 AM   #4
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with those numbers, I'd definately to the leak down.

Quite interesting they are all 145 on the nose however. The 135 still isn't 10% or greater drop from the rest.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:47 AM   #5
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I'd definitely do it again. I would be more alarmed if the 135 was something like 70 PSI. Is this a low compression motor?
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:50 AM   #6
TopEndPull
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When i did it the first time, this is what i got

145
130
145
145

tried it again to make sure i didnt do it wrong or messup i got this
145
135
145
145

I believe it is NOT a low compression motor from what i can remember.

Thanks!
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:53 AM   #7
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What is the compression on these motors in stock form? I ask because 145 PSI would be low for a high compression motor. My SHO is 9.5:1 (stock was 9.8:1) and compression is in the upper 190's.

Edit: I just searched the stock comrpression. I would consider it low compression (8.2:1 for STi/ 8:1 for WRX)
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
What is the compression on these motors in stock form? I ask because 145 PSI would be low for a high compression motor. My SHO is 9.5:1 (stock was 9.8:1) and compression is in the upper 190's.

Edit: I just searched the stock comrpression. I would consider it low compression (8.2:1 for STi/ 8:1 for WRX)
It's 8.5:1 for WRX, and yes it is pretty low compression.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:33 PM   #9
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IMO you need to pull the motor apart now and not keep driving on it. When my old built motor blew a HG it hydrolocked one cyl and ****ed things up pretty good. And mine was also cyl #2.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:38 PM   #10
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I am dropping it off tomorrow to have it pulled and taken apart.
i hope its just a head gasket and not a dropped sleeve issue.

Thanks for the input guys
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:25 AM   #11
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I had a sleeve drop (it was after a huge engine failure and overheat) The block was re-surfaced and so were the heads to correct the issue.

Make sure both block and heads are checked.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:13 PM   #12
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Update
Quote:
Originally Posted by STROKERgSr

Here you can see the spot left on the head gasket from the piece


A shot of where the gasket wasnt sealing due to the imperfection


The piece that was found stuck to the head gasket


Last edited by TopEndPull; 08-05-2009 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STROKERgSr

The chip out of the head








Couple pics with a straight edge to get a feel for the depth


This was the reason why i was getting exhaust gases in my cooling system.
i am guessing i can get the head resurface and i am good right?

What about the cylinders? I was told by the shop that the sleeves were flush from what they could tell. So its not a dropped sleeve.

Last edited by TopEndPull; 07-09-2009 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:07 PM   #14
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You could, but you'd better check for clearance and what not when your done. Might need a thicker head gasket to compensate.
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Old 07-08-2009, 10:57 PM   #15
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will do, i think they are taking it to the machine shop to have it checked and go from there. most likely a cometic head gasket pending thickness.

Any one else?
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:03 PM   #16
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personally i would go with stock head gaskets torqued to at least 85 lb/ft. thicker head gaskets are ALWAYS a bad idea imo.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2oiroc View Post
personally i would go with stock head gaskets torqued to at least 85 lb/ft. thicker head gaskets are ALWAYS a bad idea imo.
But if we had to mill the block and head, would the stock head gasket still be safe/work?

i read that the stock head gasket is very good but i was just worried that i would need thicker head gasket for clearance hence the aftermarket one.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:14 PM   #18
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you NEED to deck both head and block...that head appears to bed pretty bad but then again I'm looking at a picture online

thicker gasket should be used to help restore the proper 'deck height'.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:31 PM   #19
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if you only need to take say .002" off the head and .002" off the block i personally wouldnt bother, .010" off each is another story though.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2oiroc View Post
personally i would go with stock head gaskets torqued to at least 85 lb/ft. thicker head gaskets are ALWAYS a bad idea imo.
A bad idea when used in any other situation besides making up for decking the heads and block.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:38 PM   #21
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looking at the pics again, that head is going to need some welding. that gouge has to be at least .008" deep.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
you NEED to deck both head and block...that head appears to bed pretty bad but then again I'm looking at a picture online

thicker gasket should be used to help restore the proper 'deck height'.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
A bad idea when used in any other situation besides making up for decking the heads and block.
you guys good enough with math to figure out how much the cam timing actually changes with a decking? is it actually a linear amount like say 1* per .005"? is it really enough to make a difference and enough to justify messing the quench up? im pretty curious about it, but my math sucks.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:07 AM   #23
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yes, it is a linear relationship and is easy enough to work out if you have diameter of the cam gear....I'll have to measure one that I have sitting around.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:09 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
yes, it is a linear relationship and is easy enough to work out if you have diameter of the cam gear....I'll have to measure one that I have sitting around.
excellent, it would be nice to know instead of making wild guesses.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:17 AM   #25
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how the hell does that happen?
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