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Old 05-01-2002, 09:32 PM   #1
Rovah
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Default Soon to be another RS-T

Some have be aware that I've been gathering parts for my own turbo kit on my '98 RS like a squirrel gathering nuts.

Well, last weekend we dove in and started the install. Pics and parts are detailed at:

www.lastditchracing.net/imprezaturbo.html

I hope we can have it running by this weekend sometime...

Cheers! John
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Old 05-01-2002, 10:38 PM   #2
ac_gohan
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Good luck dont pound on it to hard when you get it in.... its really tempting though
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Old 05-01-2002, 11:14 PM   #3
Graham
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Nice! More RS-T's on the road.......


Hope everything's going well.


Graham
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Old 05-01-2002, 11:38 PM   #4
Rovah
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I've been waiting for this for over 2 years now. The car has been off the road over a week now and I'm getting a bit antsy to drive it!

I'm also scared that something will go wrong, so we'll do a cautious double/triple check before starting it up for the first time. I'll be treating it gently initially...

....and, my new vanity plate is "MY RST" :-)

Cheers! John
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Old 05-02-2002, 09:51 AM   #5
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John, those are some great pictures and documentation you have. The turbo part looks pretty nice, if i do say so myself. Almost looks stock. Definately looks as though it belongs there.

When it's all said and done, would you mind giving us a price breakdown along with your driving impressions.

Chad
93 1.8T
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Old 05-02-2002, 11:01 AM   #6
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Just remember to tune it before you romp on it!

Also, I suggest a short break-in period for the rings to settle with the pressure... but this is just my own opinion. I'm sure you'll be easy on it considering the new EJ22T block.
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Old 05-02-2002, 06:57 PM   #7
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I'll definitely be putting a price breakdown on the page when I'm done. I figure probably around $2,500 plus a weeks worth of my labor.

The EJ22t block has been in the car almost 5 months, but I'll be going easy on it for the first couple of weeks. Got the AF/Inj duty cycle gauge and HKS-SAFR , which are going in tonight.

Hopefully, we'll get everything buttoned up tonight...

Cheers! John
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Old 05-02-2002, 11:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Just remember to tune it before you romp on it!
Words of wisdom...(shakes head...)words of wisdom.
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Old 05-03-2002, 12:01 AM   #9
Rovah
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Words of wisdom indeed!

BTW, does anyone have the complete '98 ECU pinout diagram/list? Joshua sent it to me last year, and I've long sinced lost it. I've searched and folks said they were going to post it, but haven't. I got the small list off the ravensblade site, but I want the whole thing if possible.

If someone can e-mail it to me direct or fax it to 207-990-1248, I'd appreciate it.

Just have to wire the HKS-SAFR and the AF meter and then we're done! Triple check things and then set the fuel pressure with the Vortech. I'm sure there will be days of tuning.

Cheers! John
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Old 05-03-2002, 02:30 AM   #10
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Try here... http://www.northursalia.com/index1.html

This may help a bit...

Paul...
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Old 05-03-2002, 11:34 AM   #11
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Thanks Paul, but as I noted in my post-already been there. I'm looking for the complete list like they have for the '99-00 models.

Cheers! John
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Old 05-03-2002, 11:51 AM   #12
yebokmj
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Default ask me nicely

If you really want I will be a nice guy and send them again. I am still out here. Just give me your email so I can attatch them.

Joshua
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Old 05-03-2002, 12:07 PM   #13
yebokmj
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I am going home in an hour and won't be able to email him the information till Saturday night if he doesn't respond quickly does anyone have Johns email or have a place I can send the files so John can have access to them?
Joshua
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Old 05-03-2002, 12:50 PM   #14
Rovah
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Joshua,
Thanks-I e-mailed you my address.

Thanks! John
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Old 05-03-2002, 01:06 PM   #15
yebokmj
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Default North Ursalia

I just emailed Brian and asked that he host my pages of the MY98 wiring so that in the future they will readly be available to all. So we shall see.
Joshua
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Old 05-03-2002, 06:55 PM   #16
Rovah
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Great idea Joshua! Saves a lot of personal requests for these pages!

Thanks for the help! John
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Old 05-04-2002, 12:19 AM   #17
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Guys, I need some help from you more experienced turbo folks. Got the car back together. It runs, but not well. I'm going to list issues/make comments in not particular order-it's late and I can't think very clear right now...

1.) The car idles at about 2,700

2.) The most fuel pressure I can get on my mechanical gauge is about 15# at that RPM. I'm using a Vortech SMFU and have checked all connections multiple times. The static adjustment screw seems to make no difference.

3.) Not reading boost at that RPM. I thought I'd see some. We didn't rev the engine at all, because I wanted to get the fuel issue set first.

4.) Car runs no different with HKS-SAFR attached/unattached. I have done no tuning with the unit, other than to set the dip switches and # of cylinders.

5.) No air coming out of the external wastegate(vented to atmosphere). Plenty of air coming out of the BOV port, so I know we have pressure there.

6.) I'm using three vacuum ports on the intake, the top one just downstream from the throttle body for the Vortech and the two on the passenger side for the BOV, external wastegate and a couple of other stock units.

7.) boost gauge reads the same in all three ports.

8.) I have only the front 02 sensor hooked up as there is no exhaust past the downpipe.

FWIW, pics of the setup are on my website www.lastditchracing.net/imprezaturbo.html/ I'm using a Walbro 255 fuel pump along with the Vortech.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know that there's a lot of info here, and it's not in any coherent order! :-(

A bittersweet evening. I knew the car wouldn't run well off the bat, but I didn't think I'd be this stumped.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions! John
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Old 05-04-2002, 01:01 AM   #18
subachad
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John,

Have you drove the car? You wont get boost unless there's a load on the car. In other words, it needs to be moving to build boost.

The wastegate should not open until 5psi or whatever the spring is set to.

The idle is what's throwing me. Can you bypass your SFC for now, I think that might have something to do with the high idle. That or your throttle cable is partially stuck open.

Are you sure your mechanical fuel gauge works? Do you also have a standard Air/Fuel guage? If so, what is that reading?

Also, are you using the 2.2L turbo block with the stock RS ECU? At any rate, try resetting the computer to see if this helps.

One last suggestion, take the RRFPR off for now until your car has the correct fuel pressure without it. Right now you made too many changes and the issue could lie in any one of those changes. Like troubleshooting a computer issue, lets go back to the basics.

Few more days and you should be good to go.

Chad
93 1.8T
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Old 05-04-2002, 01:33 AM   #19
Rovah
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Chad,
Thanks for the response.

1.) Haven't driven the car due to the high idle. Will check the throttle cable to see if that's a problem

2.) Car idles the same way whether the HKS-SAFR is connected or not.

3.) I can't remove the Vortech as I no longer have a stock FPR.

I'll check the throttle cable-that certainly could be an issue as the cable had to be reinstalled after the install...

Thanks for the feedback! :-) John

BTW, interesting comment about the boost. I'm not sure that I follow. Why would the car need to be driven to build boost? If the engine is running at 3K RPM, wouldn't the turbo build boost? Again, it's late and I may not be thinking straight...
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Old 05-04-2002, 03:27 AM   #20
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There needs to be a load on the car to build boost. When going up hill in higher gears I will build more boost sooner than in 1st going downhill, etc...

Throttle cable or some thing you left in the throttle body keeping it open, like a rag, might be part of the problem.

Not sure about only 15 psi fuel pressure though, unless you measured in the wrong spot.

Good luck,

Larry
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Old 05-04-2002, 09:49 AM   #21
Rovah
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Thanks for the response Larry! Fuel pressure should be measured pre FPR or post FPR in the return line?

Cheers! John
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Old 05-04-2002, 10:31 AM   #22
Graham
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If you have been running the 2.2-T block before putting the turbo on, you can narrow the idle problem down to the Vortech RRFPR. Right now, I'm going off the basis the car idled fine before, and the addition of the Vortech with its ability to adjust baseline fuel pressure, as well as on boost, is causing your extremely high idle. When I started my car for the first time, I had NONE of these symptomes.

Just to find out, I would try relocating the stock FPR regulator in the same spot for now and just tune the RRFPR for on boost, and don't worry about the off boost. You can accomplish off boost settings with the HKS-SAFR. Alas, you say it is not working, so do what Chad says and go back to the basics, which in this case means double checking all of your connections. Also, to figure out some of these problems, you really should just take the car around the block or something, just drive it super easy.

As for the boost, I always thought the same thing until my turbo was installed. Your car will drive like it is N/A until you ease into the throttle when the car is moving. Oh, and I still don't understand the "must be under load" theory.


Graham
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Old 05-04-2002, 08:01 PM   #23
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I'll just bump this and also comment on it since I was over at John's today...

- High idle problem was *most* due to the overtightened cruise control cable. It now idles at approximately 2k.

- Switched the location of the FP guage. We *do* see a noticable difference, and the set screw on the FPR does make the pressure change. However, here are the current problems with it:

According to the documentation, the FPR should have the ability to push up to 50-60psi through that setup. Now, I'm not sure what fuel pump john has, but when the set screw is all the way down (highest pressure) we are reading JUST enough pressure at idle (38psi) without the vaccuum line attached.

When we attach the vacuum line, the car coughs, spits, bucks, and pukes. Not sure why, but it should also read 38psi with the vacuum attached. Didn't have a whole lot of time to play with it, but any more ideas?

-Eric
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Old 05-04-2002, 08:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rovah
Thanks for the response Larry! Fuel pressure should be measured pre FPR or post FPR in the return line?
It should be between the filter and the FPR. If it's in the return line, it'll read way abnormally low... like maybe 5-10psi.
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Old 05-04-2002, 10:06 PM   #25
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Yes, I had the FPR in the return line, so changing that helped, although we don't seem to have the type of pressure we'd like to see. Removed the cruise control line and that helped idle. May need to adjust the throttle cable as well.

Car dies quite easily now, and I think it's mostly fuel related. I don't have a stock FPR anymore(besides there are many posts about problems with the stock unit and the Walbro pump), so it will be difficult to return to stock.

I'll probably be calling the Vortech folks on Monday to discuss my problems.

Otherwise, we have all leaks taken care of and the electrical wiring done. We just need it to run so we can get it to the exhaust shop!

Took a break from it today to clear my head and work on the rally car. thanks again to all for the support and helpful suggestions! :-)

Cheers! John
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