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Old 10-26-2011, 02:49 PM   #526
0BlueSTi4
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Nice write up! Anyone try lightly smoking their tails?
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:32 PM   #527
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I've done it, but not on the WRX.
The paint and clear coat will start to peel in 3-5 years. Before that it will start to pit.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:48 AM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011OBPWRX
I've done it, but not on the WRX.
The paint and clear coat will start to peel in 3-5 years. Before that it will start to pit.
Bummer. And I thought clear coat was there to protect it.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:23 PM   #529
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Can anyone else confirm 3-5 year life span on painted tails? If that's the case I'm leaving mine as is - stock does not look too bad on a white hatch.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:22 PM   #530
Celery GT-5
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the middle sections of mine are already fading
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:50 PM   #531
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Depends on paint and clear coat combo....you've got to do a lot of research and get something that truly protects against sun fade
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:12 PM   #532
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Finally did mine. I used VHT Night Shades Red and Krylon Fusion Clear Coat. I gave it 4 coats of the VHT and 6 coats of clear. Did some 1000 grit wet sanding and polished them by hand with Turtle Wax Polishing Compound.







Yes, the car is dirty. Hasn't seen a wash since March. It might see a wash next week... Maybe...
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:57 PM   #533
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I did vht nightshades, and have wet sanded them. And mine are still in great shape after 2.5 years. I have a plastic polish that is good at removing the vht for re-application and that works as well. They will look newly tinted after a few coats of vht after that

^ great job btw
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:00 PM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobysnacks420 View Post
I did vht nightshades, and have wet sanded them. And mine are still in great shape after 2.5 years. I have a plastic polish that is good at removing the vht for re-application and that works as well. They will look newly tinted after a few coats of vht after that

^ great job btw
Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:49 PM   #535
Celery GT-5
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yeah that looks pretty good
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:20 PM   #536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsutton1223 View Post
Finished it up this morning.

Total Process:
1 Light Coat Duplicolor Red Metalcast
4 Medium Coats Duplicolor Red Metalcast
1 Light Coat Duplicolor Clear Coat
1 Medium Coat Duplicolor Clear Coat
1 Heavy Coat Duplicolor Clear Coat
Wet Sand 1000 Grit
Wet Sand 1500 Grit
Wet Sand 2000 Grit
Meguiars PlastX Polish
Meguiars Paint Polish
Meguiars Synthetic Wax



No offence to anyone else but i think these turned out the best, i also like that you used the same clearcoat brand as the tint. very nice!
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:28 PM   #537
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I like cianuro's full cutout of the reverse lights though, and the polished look
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:54 PM   #538
Celery GT-5
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you guys have any good masking tips or is that all free hand?
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:12 PM   #539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobysnacks420 View Post
I like cianuro's full cutout of the reverse lights though, and the polished look
Thanks! The longest process was polishing them, which took about 2 hours, going little by little to make sure I didn't miss a spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Celery GT-5 View Post
you guys have any good masking tips or is that all free hand?
I did mine freehand, but my tape was 2" wide. My recommendation would be to use 1/2 or 3/4 inch tape to draw the lines, then mask the center with the 2" one.

Also, when pulling the masking off, try doing it with a bit of an angle pulling away from the paint. For example, if you mask the reverse light, pull the masking towards the center of the taillight. If you do it towards the area that's painted, you might pull off the paint, or damage the lines.

To avoid having markings of where the masking was, apply 1-2 more coats of clear than the red (VHT or whatever), and even it out with 1000 grit wet.

I had a look at the OP's instructions, and he says he only applied 1 coat of clear. You won't be able to sand, or even polish with just 1 coat of clear. Make sure you give it 3 at least.

The Krylon Fusion Clear Coat is a bit of a scare... Notice my first pic has some white staining. The can says it will go in 24 hrs or less. In my experience, it won't, but sanding it will solve the issue, so don't worry about it.
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:15 PM   #540
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thanks for the input.

im sort of torn over whether I should just recoat my tails with the same stuff I used or try to remove all the paint and start over...does this stuff actually come off?
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:38 PM   #541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celery GT-5 View Post
thanks for the input.

im sort of torn over whether I should just recoat my tails with the same stuff I used or try to remove all the paint and start over...does this stuff actually come off?
Sanding it with 800 grit should do the job, and then some 1000 or 1500 grit to smooth it out. When you repaint, you will have a good prepped surface for the paint to stick to.

Forgot to add in my last post, and was writing it before your post, when suddenly my laptop went to the blue screen of death...

I masked the car around the lights and I wet sanded them with 1500 grit while they were still mounted on the car. I cleaned them off with some acetone on a napkin (not too much, and mineral spirits does the work too), and then did the masking without removing them from the car to ensure the cutouts aligned properly when the trunk is closed.

If you look at my last pic, you'll notice some dried white streaks dripping from the lights down the trunk door.
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Old 10-30-2011, 04:03 PM   #542
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Gave the lights a final polish and wax this morning, so I had to do the close-up pic...





And it still isn't next week, so no wash yet...
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Old 10-30-2011, 04:31 PM   #543
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Got props from the subie service mgr on the tails.... *pat on back*


EDIT: He also does not like the stockies....
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Old 10-30-2011, 04:36 PM   #544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tippers
Got props from the subie service mgr on the tails.... *pat on back*


EDIT: He also does not like the stockies....
I've only had to go to the dealer twice... The day I bought it, and 2 days later for them to fix a dent on one of the doors that it had when they sold it to me.

I already got props from a friend saying it looks like it came from the factory, so I expect to get the same from everyone else.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:56 PM   #545
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So I like the look and a lot of you have done it well but I think I would screw it up. A local shop near me says they have a single stage DOT approved paint that they do it with for $100. Has anybody else gone pro for this and is that a standard price?
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:27 PM   #546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDustin View Post
So I like the look and a lot of you have done it well but I think I would screw it up. A local shop near me says they have a single stage DOT approved paint that they do it with for $100. Has anybody else gone pro for this and is that a standard price?
If it was me, and I had to do all work (unmounting, masking, polishing, etc.), I'd charge $150.

Seeing it's a shop, I don't think they'll polish them since painting with a compressor and gun will be a lot easier, and the finish can be achieved without the need of sanding and polishing. Also, they might want for you to take the lights already unmounted for them, so $100 ($25 per light) doesn't sound that bad.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:38 PM   #547
93Imprezster
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I thats a really cool mod, i think thats one thing subaru went wrong with the newer models, putting those clear lights on em, but this just added a nice touch to it.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:14 AM   #548
DrDustin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro

If it was me, and I had to do all work (unmounting, masking, polishing, etc.), I'd charge $150.

Seeing it's a shop, I don't think they'll polish them since painting with a compressor and gun will be a lot easier, and the finish can be achieved without the need of sanding and polishing. Also, they might want for you to take the lights already unmounted for them, so $100 ($25 per light) doesn't sound that bad.
He said that they mask on the car in general and ensure no overspray. That's probably why it's cheaper, an hour less work to unmount/mount. He also said they do not need to polish but that the paint will be waxable.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:30 AM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDustin View Post
He said that they mask on the car in general and ensure no overspray. That's probably why it's cheaper, an hour less work to unmount/mount. He also said they do not need to polish but that the paint will be waxable.
If they're doing the cutout, you might want to check that it looks even. They might just slap the paint on there and pull the masking to leave it at that, no sanding of the light or anything. Since they say it's DOT approved, they might not need to.

I've been spray painting parts for a while now, so I know the amount of work required for the spray paint to look like shop applied. I even made a thread for acheiving my results with spray paint: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1994982
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:20 AM   #550
DrDustin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro

If they're doing the cutout, you might want to check that it looks even. They might just slap the paint on there and pull the masking to leave it at that, no sanding of the light or anything. Since they say it's DOT approved, they might not need to.

I've been spray painting parts for a while now, so I know the amount of work required for the spray paint to look like shop applied. I even made a thread for acheiving my results with spray paint: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1994982
I do want the cutouts on both, he said I will be able to feel the edge of the paint. I'm moving to Ohio next year and have heard that passing vehicle inspection may be difficult if you paint over the reverse and turn signal. Don't know if anyone else has had a problem with that.

Your paint in the write up looks good BTW.

Last edited by DrDustin; 11-01-2011 at 11:25 AM.
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