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Old 08-11-2009, 12:36 AM   #1
Chi_San
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Default So... 2002 WRX, Timing advance value in ECU = "1"

At the meet tonight, a guy brought his laptop and cable, and did a datalog on an STi, and I mentioned to him I wanted him to do a datapull sometime on my car, since it's been going into limp mode daily.

He plugged into my OBD port and did a learning values read, and my timing advance learned value is "1". This is a 16-bit ECU, so 1 is the minimum value, 8 is 'limp mode' threshold, and 16 is maximum advance, normal.

"middle late" 2002 WRX Wagon. Catless UP, stock DP, stock second cat, custom catback, aftermarket radiator. Stock tune. 102,000 miles, stock timing belt, will be getting that replaced in the next few days.

I used a stethescope and listened to the motor while it was idling and lightly revving in my driveway. It sounds very good, everything is uniform, no horrible grinding sounds or anything like that. It doesn't knock. Valves sound very good. Injectors sound good. I'm going to do a compression test and a leakdown test as soon as the new timing belt is put in.

Spark plugs have 10k on them. Trans fluid has 2k on it, so does motor oil. Doesn't burn oil.

Gah.

Cliffs notes: Very lightly modded car is at MAX timing retard, can't figure out why.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:53 AM   #2
renhoek
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Reset the ecu. Read the IAM (should be 8). Go for a quiet drive around and ensure you get into low boost every now and again and re-check. Should be 16. If not, the ecu is thinking there is knock. If ecu and engine is unmolested, could be a bad tank of fuel, but the possibilities with such little data is almost endless.

cheers
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:47 AM   #3
Chi_San
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There's an idea. When the timing belt gets done, the ECU will get reset anyway. Going to call today to make that appointment. Though, it would probably be super easy to just unplug the battery when I get to school and plug it back in when it's time to go home.
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Old 08-11-2009, 05:39 PM   #4
elevenpoint7five
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could be a faulty knock sensor. or if you have something rattling around(i.e. exhaust. even if you cant hear it, the knock sensor might) that could cause it as well. though i would assume that second option would also give you feedback and/or fine learning knock correction as well. did you log these parameters with your friend?
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Old 08-11-2009, 07:38 PM   #5
Chi_San
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No, he had to get to work and his laptop was out of batteries.

I'm going to attempt to scrape some money together so I can get a cable and an inverter so I can datalog and possibly even tune myself. I don't just drive in one area, I drive up and down mountains, on the coast, and everywhere in between, so a few different maps would be nice to have.

However, I discovered that the two brand new accessory belts I had just put on were incorrect. The angle of the V is wrong, and they were squeaking. I took them off and inspected them, and put them on so tight that there's a small chance of them shredding... It ran a lot better today, and I could feel a smoother powerband. I think that may have been part of it, but not all of it. Going in for a timing belt soon.
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:35 PM   #6
JSarv
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Welcome to the stock tune on a Subaru..
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:36 AM   #7
jaxscuby
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you didn't say which octane gas you use.
but repeating what was said in one of the above post.
fill up with 92/3, drive in low boost..check learn view..
then if everything is satisfactory drive mid boost..
repeat procedure...
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:02 AM   #8
Chi_San
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I HAVE been using 92 octane gasoline. LTFT varies from -0.7 to 3, with one spike to 7 at a particular RPM. I did a live data view using a Solus Pro wile driving in 105 degree heat.

I even went as far as to add Xylene to my gasoline to increase the octane rating of my fuel to see if it would help with my problem, and while it did help the engine run smoother, it did not change the learned Timing Advance value or the LTFT (it did change the STFT slightly though).

Also, I always fill up using Shell gasoline at the same exact station. It's quality and I've never had problems with it before. I'm starting to wonder if it's possible that E10 is the problem.

I'm going to use some MAF cleaner today at school if I get a chance and see if that helps anything, or changes my LTFT at all. I did see very good readings from the MAF on the Solus Pro, idle was just about where it should be. I'd like to see that LTFT spike eliminated. I'll also log it once more just to see if it hasn't changed again... And I need to log it with the AC on because I do know it goes rich as freaking hell with when the car goes into high idle.

I also know that my cats are sending decent signal, I watched the signals on the Solus, the front sensor looks perfect with the rapid up and down with it bottoming out when engine braking and topping out when flooring it. The rear O2 also looks really good, a steady line when cruising which then varies under heavy load. I guess I'll have to start testing various sensors... I think I'm going to start with the knock sensor.
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:36 PM   #9
Chi_San
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I cleaned my MAF sensor today with MAF sensor cleaner. I got hell for using it, but hey, I only used like 1/16th of the freaking can. "Oh, it's so expensive, you owe me $30 now!"

Anyway, after I cleaned it, I let it dry and put it back in. I plugged in the Solus and went into live data mode, and was seeing good MAF reading, and good IAT reading (was approximately 80 degrees, so 100 degrees in the airbox wasn't too bad, and it went down when I started the car).

While I was driving it, the MAF was reading fine when I was in vacuum, but when I floored it, the boost gauge would hit about 10 PSI and then it would seizure its way up to 13 PSI or so. It was also well short of previous full throttle pulls. So, I headed back and checked the air cleaner... The airbox wouldn't go back together, so I removed the two coolant lines from the top of the airbox, the throttle cable from the connecting air inlet hose that connects the airbox to the inlet, and found a hoseclamp that was loose.

So, I've been running the car for untold months with an inlet leak. I'm going to have a brake job tomorrow at class, then I'll do another run or two with the Solus and see if I'm getting more air through the MAF sensor, and I'm betting I will. Idle is now nice and smooth, boost builds quicker, it runs smoother, and it has much less lag.

I also bent my heatshield on the turbo so it doesn't rub the wastegate actuator, made sure the nuts were all tight on my DP from the turbo, and the UP nuts on the turbo were tight. Looks like this may have been my problem.
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