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Old 08-16-2009, 03:53 PM   #1
CasperForester
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Default 2.5 N/A with 2.0 Turbo

Ok so I have a 2000 Forester, and i am looking to turbo it. Only looking to run 5psi. So far I have the TD04 turbo the Oil pan off a 2.0, TMIC, and exhaust housing parts. Like headers, up pipe, and down pipe, I was wondering how safe would my motor be on only 5psi? Or is there something needed that I am missing?
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:32 PM   #2
2milehi
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+40,000 miles on about 6 psi.



You'll need a turbo engine water pump and notch/replace the front cross memeber.
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:00 AM   #3
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How much oomph does 5psi add?
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2milehi View Post
+40,000 miles on about 6 psi.



You'll need a turbo engine water pump and notch/replace the front cross memeber.
wow thank you, what about injectors? any advice is useful. I'm kinda new to subaru's so yea
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:27 AM   #5
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oh and I heard something about a MAP sensor having to be instailed?
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CasperForester View Post
oh and I heard something about a MAP sensor having to be instailed?
Your Forester is a 2000 so it is MAP based. Either put a check valve in it or throw a MAP voltage clamp on it.

And for injectors Id say run stock ones for 5psi. Just go with a upgraded fuel pump like a Walbro 255.
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:05 PM   #7
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I'm running stock injectors, fuel pump, and ECU. The 5 psi of boost helps out a lot. Some of the passes that I travel (11,000 ft) use to require a downshift into 4th. Not any more

I still don't understand why one needs to add a zener diode for the voltage clamp on the MAP sensor.
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:33 PM   #8
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Might have to look into this
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:25 PM   #9
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Might have to look into this
I did the install for $600. I did all the work myself (including notching the front cross member).
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Old 08-18-2009, 02:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2milehi View Post
I'm running stock injectors, fuel pump, and ECU. The 5 psi of boost helps out a lot. Some of the passes that I travel (11,000 ft) use to require a downshift into 4th. Not any more

I still don't understand why one needs to add a zener diode for the voltage clamp on the MAP sensor.
what about a tune? everyone keeps telling me "ohh you'll lean it out without a tune." I've been wanting to do this forever because everyone else has wrx's or sti's and I'm sick of hearing. "it can't be done" well obivously it can lol, I just want to learn more about it before i do it.
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Old 08-18-2009, 11:22 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by CasperForester View Post
what about a tune? everyone keeps telling me "ohh you'll lean it out without a tune." I've been wanting to do this forever because everyone else has wrx's or sti's and I'm sick of hearing. "it can't be done" well obivously it can lol, I just want to learn more about it before i do it.
Like I said, 40 thousand miles, 211 million feet, 2.5 billion inches. My car runs fine, it is not ideal and a tune would make it run better. But it works plenty good at 6 psi and spark plugs have been "wearing" fine.

If you are mechanically inclined, DO IT!

Last edited by 2milehi; 08-18-2009 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:32 AM   #12
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i lost cyl 4 in my 02 wrx but i have access to a 2.5 n/a block (well, its the whole car) for 500 bucks. im hoping it will work out ok for me with all the 2.0 turbo stuff in stock form on the 2.5 n/a block
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:15 AM   #13
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Like I said, 40 thousand miles, 211 million feet, 2.5 billion inches. My car runs fine, it is not ideal and a tune would make it run better. But it works plenty good at 6 psi and spark plugs have been "wearing" fine.

If you are mechanically inclined, DO IT!
i'm gonna do it i just wanted to learn more about it before i did it. but you said the water pump is i'll i'm missing, well hell thats a 100 dollar part. my top mount will be 150, my exhaust will be 130. how did you run your exhaust after the down pipe tho? just curious. sorry I am asking questions. I just don't want to blow my car
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:18 AM   #14
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ohh and my motor has about 160k on it... but compresson is fine, an old lady owned the car before me. Only down side it's a auto
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CasperForester View Post
ohh and my motor has about 160k on it... but compresson is fine, an old lady owned the car before me. Only down side it's a auto
Quit whining and swap a 5MT. It's easy.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:33 AM   #16
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yea I was thinking about it, but putting in the clutch pedal is a pain in the ass. but I want to see how the auto holds to boost. Because i don't think there is a person that can shift faster than a auto. But at the sametime I want to shift through gears lol. So idk we will see how things go in the next month
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:53 PM   #17
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I did the install for $600. I did all the work myself (including notching the front cross member).
Link for buildup?
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CasperForester View Post
yea I was thinking about it, but putting in the clutch pedal is a pain in the ass. but I want to see how the auto holds to boost. Because i don't think there is a person that can shift faster than a auto. But at the sametime I want to shift through gears lol. So idk we will see how things go in the next month
My auto lasted me 3 months (with a freshly rebuild torque converter) at 10psi.

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I still don't understand why one needs to add a zener diode for the voltage clamp on the MAP sensor.
At 10 psi the ECU freaks out and throws a CEL.
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Old 08-21-2009, 01:01 AM   #19
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k so i will need to look into a tranny swap, and also a map? but how would I run the map? and how hard/easy is a 5mt swap?
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:06 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by JamesWilson2 View Post
Link for buildup?
UGH - I looked for about an hour on my price list of my buildup and could not find it. But here is my buildup link - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824400
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:16 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by CasperForester View Post
i'm gonna do it i just wanted to learn more about it before i did it. but you said the water pump is i'll i'm missing, well hell thats a 100 dollar part. my top mount will be 150, my exhaust will be 130. how did you run your exhaust after the down pipe tho? just curious. sorry I am asking questions. I just don't want to blow my car
On my car, the previous owner ran 2 1/2" back from the last cat. So I joined the downpipe to the existing 2 1/2". As for questions - ask away.
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Old 08-22-2009, 03:29 PM   #22
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On my car, the previous owner ran 2 1/2" back from the last cat. So I joined the downpipe to the existing 2 1/2". As for questions - ask away.
what was the toughest part about doing this? I mean 2.0 headers and everything will work? Or did you go with a different setup? what about up and down pipe?
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:53 AM   #23
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I used the factory turbo exhaust manifolds and up/down pipes. I started by bolting the turbo to the downpipe and then bolt the downpipe to the tranny. Next I positioned the outlet of the downpipe to a good location. Then I made two brackets to lock the location of the turbo. Then I added a 1 1/2" extension to the up pipe.
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:07 AM   #24
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I used the factory turbo exhaust manifolds and up/down pipes. I started by bolting the turbo to the downpipe and then bolt the downpipe to the tranny. Next I positioned the outlet of the downpipe to a good location. Then I made two brackets to lock the location of the turbo. Then I added a 1 1/2" extension to the up pipe.
How did you route the coolant and oil lines??

I just wanted to verify that you said you are using no EM?
I have the same engine as you (98) LGT wagon, and have been thinking about this for a looooong time. I have att the parts chilling in my garage. I just havent done it yet.

How did you make the intercooler like that?

Last edited by iluvdrt; 08-23-2009 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by iluvdrt View Post
How did you route the coolant and oil lines??

I just wanted to verify that you said you are using no EM?
I have the same engine as you (98) LGT wagon, and have been thinking about this for a looooong time. I have att the parts chilling in my garage. I just havent done it yet.

How did you make the intercooler like that?
I added the coolant lines by plumbing the turbo in series with the throttle body. I modified the banjo fittings by soldering 5/16" steel fuel line to the fittings. The oil line supply comes from the front oil supply and the return oil goes to the valve cover.

I am using EM - just factory, stock, what ever Subaru programmed in '98.

The inlet of the intercooler is a 2" aluminum pipe TIG welded to inlet side of the intercooler. I plugged the factory inlet holes. This makes adding the intercooler a lot easier.

Add the turbo - you will enjoy it!
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