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Old 08-01-2013, 12:09 PM   #176
projectQWKSLVR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkBlueBug View Post
Okay, I've just read through all of this and as I read it I can completely delete the purge control solenoid and EGR valve as long as I vent the fuel evap line to atmosphere and bung up all of the take-off nipples. I will need to get the solenoid fault codes turned off by my mapper though - is that correct.

If it is I'll be cutting off all of the take-offs on tha manifold and welding and smoothing them as I've done with a load more lugs and take-offs...


Yes, you can delete it. You will need to deal with the 4 CEL codes.

I wouldn't remove the nipples from the intake. You would be screwed later if you need them. Just cap them off or run a hose from one to the other.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:25 PM   #177
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I've already worked out exactly how many lugs I need and if I junk the PCV I can either use the 4mm lug for my FPR or, as I currently plan to, get a 4mm flare lug welded on the back of the inlet under the TB - it will all depend upon whether I rotate the inlet or not...
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:12 PM   #178
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Hello All,

I have a 2002 WRX.

Pretty stock setup on my setup on my car. I have been getting the EVAP Emissions light P0442. I think I have traced it to the mess of dry rotted hoses in this whole assembly.

If I do this Mod the way IA Performance has outlined, will this get rid of the light?

Thank you so much for all of your effort and is another reason I still love my Subaru even after 11 years of ownership!

-Jason
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #179
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it's hard to guarantee a light will turn off since there are many items that go into EVAP CELs. You can start with the JDM conversion and see how things go. You will need to reset the ECU after completing work to see if the CEL turns off. If the CEL remains then I recommend taking the car to a specialist for further diagnosing.

Stephen
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:37 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
it's hard to guarantee a light will turn off since there are many items that go into EVAP CELs. You can start with the JDM conversion and see how things go. You will need to reset the ECU after completing work to see if the CEL turns off. If the CEL remains then I recommend taking the car to a specialist for further diagnosing.

Stephen
Thanks Stephen.

I have tightened all of my hoses and replaced the worst offender, the hose connected to the purge valve (3 in the diagram) to the engine block. I've reset my ECU. We'll see if it comes back.

If not, I will try the full delete that you have outlined.

-Jason
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:55 AM   #181
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Edit: never mind, figured it out.

Last edited by ShinjiML; 08-24-2013 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:32 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Here is another option, it is free and avoids the hassle of the hoses coming off in the future. This is how the JDM ver7/8 STi cars are setup. We have lots of customer cars running this configuration without any CELs or negative side affects.

Waaaiiiit a minute! This horse isn't dead yet!
The fuel system is purging low pressure relative to boost pressure in the manifold.
If you bypass the purge control system like this, wouldn't it be like trying to burp with a 90psi air hose in your mouth once the purge control solenoid opens? My inclination would be to send the jumper to the vacuum side of the intake.
It appears to me, the purge control solenoid wouldn't run 100% duty with the car running so it's most likely "normally closed". Deriving from this assumption, it seems that another benefit to running the jumper to the intake is that it wouldn't matter which way you route your lines because the higher pressure manifold wouldn't be fighting the solenoid (if you plug your boosted line to the top port closest to the solenoid) or assisting (if you plug the boosted line into the bottom port).
Seems to me, running the jumper to the vacuum side would be like burping into a vacuum hose.
Thoughts?
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:56 PM   #183
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This thread is pretty much dead/done and replaced by this one where there is control over the content, versus assumptions.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2485979

Also, the EVAP solenoid opens during vacuum.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:56 PM   #184
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This thread is pretty much dead/done and replaced by this one where there are facts versus pages of questioning posts. Also, the EVAP solenoid opens during vacuum.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2485979
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:06 AM   #185
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Great info Stephen! Awesome write-up!
I'm guilty of burying my point between the lines. What I was trying to say is, "a benefit to running the jumper to the vacuum side of the intake is that it wouldn't matter which way you route your lines". In other words, schematics for the sti, wrx, forester and so on wouldn't matter any more. It's safe and accomplishes the same thing dontcha think?
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:17 AM   #186
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Since it is a solenoid that opens and closes, it could be plumbed either way. I'd suggest following the install guide for the specific model/year in the event it isn't as simple as we make it to be. After all, someone at Subaru took the time to make the illustrations for each make/model/year.

Stephen
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:20 AM   #187
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Thanks
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:47 PM   #188
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How do you do a 07 sti
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:19 PM   #189
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Alright, so has anyone done the purge control valve delete and then NOT be able to go past wastegate boost?

So, I broke one of the ports from my Purge control solenoid and replaced it with one I bought from the forum. I figured I might as well delete the purge control valve and get rid of some clutter. Now, I can't go past wastegate boost. Would a bad purge control solenoid cause this? I'm running a new Grimmspeed EBCS, but the problem still exists even after switching to a factory BCS.

Car is an 02 WRX with a VF23 and EJ207 swapped. I already had a smoke test done and no leaks. No CEL, compression test and leak down tests are all good as well. New spark plugs, coil packs, and turbo inlet installed. Car was protuned at EFI Logics recently.

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:42 AM   #190
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Sounds like something is still failing in the system. I would do the following:

- Boost Leak Test
- Test the waste gate for when it opens, it should be around 10psi +/- 2 psi.
- Install a new EVAP purge solenoid and route the lines correctly, as shown here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2485979

Stephen
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:58 AM   #191
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Bump for a useful thread
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:57 AM   #192
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I have this set-up for over 3 years. One of the best modifications I have done so far.
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:22 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaby View Post
I have this set-up for over 3 years. One of the best modifications I have done so far.
My factory lines are rock solid so I'm going to attempt this on my next day off
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:44 AM   #194
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I'm trying to identify the solenoid under the intake pipe, left of the alternator. Mine has split apart. Is this part of the evap system?
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:51 AM   #195
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Yes...
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:33 AM   #196
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jeddi - more information / research may be found in this thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2485979
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