leaky rear main oil seal...big problem?

JDMFLCL · 08-26-2009, 03:45 PM

so i've been told my rear main oil seal or my rear main oil block off plate are leaking somewhat. how big of a deal is this? i have the FSM and could do the fixes, but i don't have the tools to life my engine out and access these seals/plates since they are concealed by the flywheel. is this minor or major?

i know i have the 95-98 junk plastic plate so its either that or the rear main thats leaking.

1995 WRX Ej20G

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Uncle Scotty · 08-26-2009, 03:58 PM

its almost certainly the oil seperator leaking

09rexwagon · 08-26-2009, 04:41 PM

You don't have to remove the engine. If you don't want to do that, then you have to drop the tranny, remove the PP, clutch, and flywheel. Pry the RMS out and tap the new one in (properly lubed with a large socket). Lot of work to replace a $10 part but alas.

The severity of the problem is minimal if you are ok dripping oil where you park your car and you are good about keeping the oil level up.

Charlie-III · 08-27-2009, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 09rexwagon

The severity of the problem is minimal if you are ok dripping oil where you park your car and you are good about keeping the oil level up.

You can pull the engine or drop the trans, either one works.
I would do both the rear crank seal and the oil seperator plate while in there (also think about how many miles on the clutch as well).

Keep in mind, the oil leak could soak the clutch and cause it to slip.

09rexwagon · 08-27-2009, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Keep in mind, the oil leak could soak the clutch and cause it to slip.

Good point. In my experience RMS usually just seep/drip ever so slightly until major failure where it's pouring a qt of oil a day on the ground. And they also seem to go from a drip to that state very suddenly. However, I ran a Civic with a dripping RMS for 40k miles and then one morning I smelled oil in my garage and there was a puddle under the engine. The day before it was still on it's one drip per 2-3 days

.

Mechie3 · 08-27-2009, 09:21 AM

You dont need to "drop" the trans. Put it on a jack, disconnected it, lower it an inch (to clear the driveshaft tunnel) and slide it backwards. This lets you leave the front axles connected (saves a few hours of work if the ball joints are stuck).

To pull the old seal (if you need to) drive a drywall screw (or wood screw) into the middle of the ring and grab it with vice grips. Nearly impossible to get it out otherwise without damaging anything. A 4" PVC coupler makes a good reinstallation tool.

Charlie-III · 08-27-2009, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechie3

This lets you leave the front axles connected (saves a few hours of work if the ball joints are stuck).

Geez, I have never had to deal with the ball joints while dropping a Suby trans.

Mechie3 · 09-02-2009, 12:35 PM

To fully remove the trans, you have to pop the axles. I've never been able to pop axles without removing ball joints, and every how to I've read shows the same.

I consider "dropping" to be 100% disconnected off the car. Others might consider dropping just moving it enough.

08-26-2009, 03:45 PM	#1
JDMFLCL Scooby Specialist Member#: 180513 Join Date: May 2008 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Super Eurobeat Vol 193..Denver Vehicle: Baby Baby C'mon! Looka Bomba! 99 JDM GM8	leaky rear main oil seal...big problem? so i've been told my rear main oil seal or my rear main oil block off plate are leaking somewhat. how big of a deal is this? i have the FSM and could do the fixes, but i don't have the tools to life my engine out and access these seals/plates since they are concealed by the flywheel. is this minor or major? i know i have the 95-98 junk plastic plate so its either that or the rear main thats leaking. 1995 WRX Ej20G * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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08-26-2009, 03:58 PM	#2
Uncle Scotty Scooby Guru Member#: 16200 Join Date: Mar 2002 Vehicle: OK Houston we have an Uncle	its almost certainly the oil seperator leaking

08-26-2009, 04:41 PM	#3
09rexwagon Scooby Specialist Member#: 216135 Join Date: Jul 2009 Vehicle: 2011 Civic SI STX #66, 06 S2000 STR 180	You don't have to remove the engine. If you don't want to do that, then you have to drop the tranny, remove the PP, clutch, and flywheel. Pry the RMS out and tap the new one in (properly lubed with a large socket). Lot of work to replace a $10 part but alas. The severity of the problem is minimal if you are ok dripping oil where you park your car and you are good about keeping the oil level up.

08-27-2009, 09:21 AM	#6
Mechie3 Scooby Guru Member#: 120152 Join Date: Jul 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Indy Vehicle: 2006 06 WRX, 86 FMOD Blue, White/Red	You dont need to "drop" the trans. Put it on a jack, disconnected it, lower it an inch (to clear the driveshaft tunnel) and slide it backwards. This lets you leave the front axles connected (saves a few hours of work if the ball joints are stuck). To pull the old seal (if you need to) drive a drywall screw (or wood screw) into the middle of the ring and grab it with vice grips. Nearly impossible to get it out otherwise without damaging anything. A 4" PVC coupler makes a good reinstallation tool.

09-02-2009, 12:35 PM	#8
Mechie3 Scooby Guru Member#: 120152 Join Date: Jul 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Indy Vehicle: 2006 06 WRX, 86 FMOD Blue, White/Red	To fully remove the trans, you have to pop the axles. I've never been able to pop axles without removing ball joints, and every how to I've read shows the same. I consider "dropping" to be 100% disconnected off the car. Others might consider dropping just moving it enough.