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Old 05-05-2002, 06:44 PM   #1
SPeeDSiN
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Member#: 4667
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Asheville, NC
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
Black (well kinda)

Default Turbo Mazda Protege 5 Questions (Again)

Thanks to everyone who has answered my questions regarding my brothers turbo protege 5 project.
I got some more questions. I know there aren't many simliarities between the cars, but its worth a try.

Well, everything is installed, cars running, kinda. At first he was having trouble with the car stumbling at idle and stalling out. He switched the rear 02 sensor to the front and that fixed it. Good assumption cause they have been kicked around on the garage floor for 3 months now.
Now, he says it sounds like a "miss." How he knows? But him and his mechanically enclined buddy say so. Over the phone it sounded like a sick car, we a realy lazy idle.
Do you guys have any suggestions, or comments on why it might be doing this?

Just to help you understand the setup, he is using a vortech
10:1 fmu (supposed to be hooked up on the fuel return to tank right?),
stock injectors,
stock ignition,
t25 turbo w/actuator set to 3psi,
evo 02 housing,
blitz ssbc,
turbo xs low boost bov,
intercooled, and
set to run 7psi.
He said it made 10psi, and his blitz is as low as it will go. His gauges are boost and a/f. I told him to ditch the a/f and get EGT, what do you think?

The mazda also has a boost sensor that cuts fuel if its sees boost. He has three check valves inline with that, and his car of course isn't making any boost at idle.

He also IS using the EGR. Could there be a problem with this that is causing that "missing" sound.

He also hasn't got on it hard or anything like that. He is being realy conservative until the bugs are worked out.

Thanks
Aaron Caudle
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Old 05-05-2002, 07:01 PM   #2
HndaTch627
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Location: Carol Stream, IL
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'01 GC8 Dinged STM
'09 Concours 14 ABS Black

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well for starters you need to get some kind of voltage clamp on the map sensor...IIRC most sensors on NA cars will fuel cut @ 4.85v so you'll need to clamp it around 4.80v to get max timing, max fuel etc. He should keep the A/f and add a EGT guage, he needs to do some research to find out which of the cylinders is naturally the leanest. Is that blitz a mechanil or electronic boost controller?? you really shouldn't use Manual's on low boost applications they are just too inaccurate. and you are positive the wastegate spring is built for 3psi right?? Has he put a fuel pump in it yet?? Yes the FMU should be on the return side of the rail(after the stock FPR). with a 10:1 disk you should be drowning that fuggin thing...you may want to ligthen up to a 8:1 and/or get larger injectors that fit your needs more appropriately.

Good Luck

jeremy
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Old 05-05-2002, 07:10 PM   #3
tom@kartboy
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Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego, CA
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1999 Outlasting
the competition.

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you might want to ask arround this forum
http://forum.protegemp3.com/vbb222/index.php?s=
since i now have a MP5 and making parts, i'm there a bit

tom@kartboy.com
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Old 05-05-2002, 07:13 PM   #4
djerickd
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Location: Tampa B*tch!
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02 WRX WFC#040
Clean on 19's

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Hey this car wouldn't happen to be a yellow wagon with gunmetal Velox whells is it?
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Old 05-05-2002, 07:53 PM   #5
SPeeDSiN
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thanks for the replies.
well right now we are trying to get rid of the stumbling. the "miss" sound is gone. don't know why.
our newest theory:
My brother attempted to use the EGR system. Of course it gets its source right off the header just like stock. But he did have copper pipe made to link back up to the stock hose the leads back to the throttle body.
But he noticed that the copper pipe was flaking off in large amounts, and the welds we almost gone. He thinks that the EGR valve is stuck open possibly becaue of the flaking. Would this cause stumbling? He is going to take the TB off tonight and check out how the EGR works.

As for the sensor, is there any reas
on f
or it to reach voltages above fuel cut at idle? If you were testing to see if the sensor is damaged, what voltages would you look for from idle to WOT?

The actuator was cut open. We then began clipping lengths off of the spring and measuring it with a bicycle pump (i know it doesn't sound accurate, but we calibrated it with one of those hand pump/brake bleader, all in one thingys) We got it to go at a solid 3-4psi. Then we jb welded it back together.

He is also saying that the turbo isn't spooling now. If you read my previous thread you would see we had some lubrication problems. Also, loctite got into the center of the turbo, when we put installed an oil fitting barb. So we disassembled the turbo, clean it up put it back on. It worked fine. Spooled up great and everything. Now he says the actuator arm doesn't even move at realy high throttle. He is going to unplug is EBC and run the wastegate right off the compressor housing later to eliminate that variable.

But if the turbo were to somehow have become locked up inside again, and provide a big restriction for the exhaust gasses, would this cause stumbling?

we aren't using a fuel pump yet, i think his research revealed the stock one has pretty high flow.

how do you go about determining which cylinder is the leanest? would that be causing the "missing sound"

no, he's got a blue wagon with 18 cheapo rebel wheels on it. they look good though, its a equally split 6 spok design, kinda like the speedline wheels. he's in asheville, nc.
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Old 05-05-2002, 09:57 PM   #6
Graham
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257/FMIC/T3-T04S

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Ouch! Loctite inside the turbo? Not a good thing, but if you cleaned it up it should be alright I guess.

So you were messing with the internal wastegate spring, and now it doesn't work?......we have a winner! I would be very cautious about messing with the boost on the car so early on, especially with clipping the wategate spring (don't think I have ever heard of this?). There are better ways to do it. If you are using an EBC, you need to somehow close permanently the internal wastegate on the turbo, or else one will acvtivate before the other and not good things.

Graham
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Old 05-05-2002, 10:09 PM   #7
SPeeDSiN
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The wategate worked fine. Everything worked fine...........for a day. All we did for the wastegate was change the amount of boost it needed to begin moving.
What other ways are there of changing the wastegate settings? I know you can increase them, but how would you go about decreasing them?
In an application such as this, of course it wouldn't be any good for the wastegate to begin opening at 13psi (which it was) when all we could handle max is about 7psi.

Graham:
Could you explain your last sentence a little more? Are you saying it would do no good for the wastegate to begin opening before the ebc begins bleeding? (just trying to understand) Isn't the right way to have the EBC activate before the wastegate so that it can bleed off the boost presure that would otherwise open the wastegate? Then when the desired presure is reached, it stops bleeding and lets the wastegate open? I am way confused.

Thanks
Aaron
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Old 05-05-2002, 10:10 PM   #8
SPeeDSiN
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2002 WRX
Black (well kinda)

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ps. for the wastegate modification, we did that before the turbo ever went on the car
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