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Old 08-28-2009, 11:40 PM   #1
txl146
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Default Oil separator cover gasket replaced on 02 WRX (pictures)

Thought I would share some pictures of how gasket looks like after 90k miles.

Passenger side:



Driver side:



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Old 08-28-2009, 11:53 PM   #2
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its b-yootyfull
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:26 PM   #3
Haelan
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The second picture looks like a tray full of poo butter.
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
I replaced mine a little while back at around 40k-ish miles - they had been weeping oil for a while, but I didn't have anything like that in there.... what oil have you been running?
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:35 PM   #5
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~20k miles on conventional oil / ~50k miles on M1 and ~20k miles on German castrol.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:45 PM   #6
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txl,

Thanks for posting....I'm leaking same spot on the passenger side.

Was it a pretty easy change?? pull the bolts and swap it out?? anything a pita in the process??

dm
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:56 PM   #7
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I'm doing this on Saturday. Got the gaskets from the dealership today. I'm at a bit of a loss as well . . . can't find the one on the driver's side, but the passenger one is definitely leaking.
Could anyone provide some instructions or tips to getting at it? Is it, as the above person said, just pulling the bolts, cleaning, and putting the new one in?
Pics are welcome, and thanks!!
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:57 PM   #8
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Also, what torque should those be tightened to? I thought I remembered someone saying 4.1 ft-lbs, but that seems excessively low. My torque wrench won't even read that low, I don't think.
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:06 PM   #9
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WTF. That's gross. I just did mine (120k+ miles) and they were clean, just oily, nothing like that.

Have you opened the valve covers? Presumably you have that junk in there, too?
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magicstop View Post
Also, what torque should those be tightened to? I thought I remembered someone saying 4.1 ft-lbs, but that seems excessively low. My torque wrench won't even read that low, I don't think.
The manual says 4.7 ft-lb. Yes that's super low. Use a small 1/4" socket wrench and don't crank on it.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magicstop View Post
Is it, as the above person said, just pulling the bolts, cleaning, and putting the new one in?
It was straightforward, except I found out why they call them green brackets of DEATH. You have to have the bracket off the bolt the breather down...but you need the breather off to get the bracket on. Whoever designed those brackets deserves a kick in the nads.

I'm not sure how the OP did it, but what I did was unbolt (but don't remove!) the GBOD, and lift/twist/tug it out of the way enough to get the smallest 1/4" wrench and socket I could find on that bolt. Even then it was on crooked, but it grabbed the bolt enough to tighten. Maybe a small 1/4" u-joint would help...?
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
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It was straightforward, except I found out why they call them green brackets of DEATH. You have to have the bracket off the bolt the breather down...but you need the breather off to get the bracket on. Whoever designed those brackets deserves a kick in the nads.

I'm not sure how the OP did it, but what I did was unbolt (but don't remove!) the GBOD, and lift/twist/tug it out of the way enough to get the smallest 1/4" wrench and socket I could find on that bolt. Even then it was on crooked, but it grabbed the bolt enough to tighten. Maybe a small 1/4" u-joint would help...?
I say, everyone who feels that way should chip in, and we should hire someone to do just that. We'll find the person/people who designed the GBOD, and ship someone to Japan to give them a nice, firm, steel booted kick in the nuts.

My torque wrench doesn't even go down to 4.7 lb-ft. Gonna have to get a little itty bitty job that does inch lbs, a couple ft-lbs, and newton-meters.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:42 PM   #13
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You don't need to screw with the GBOD for the breather gaskets. If you did, then you don't know what you're doing or you were using the completely wrong tools.

Driver side...unbolt the windshield washer reservoir and swing it out of the way.

Passenger side....unbolt and remove the airbox.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:50 PM   #14
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^^ I couldn't get a wrench, socket, or anything else on that one bolt without loosening the GBOD. The one on the right in this picture. How did you do it?

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Old 10-22-2009, 06:57 PM   #15
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Undo the power steering hardline bracket. It's the line at top the top of the picture...the rubber grommet bracket you see connects to the turbo coolant reservoir.

I fit a 1/4 in ratchet in there with a 10 mm low-profile socket. Had zero problems.
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:02 PM   #16
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^^ Well, with my tools the socket fits in fine but my ratchet wrench is too big...I guess mine is bigger than yours
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:37 PM   #17
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I did mine on 85k miles. Again for passenger side. I m assuming heat from turbo is making gasket to go out quickly than other side. mine showed very clean.(previous owner claimed m1 for 60k miles i assume that is true lol) job can be done without removing anything from the top. Just torquing down to proper spec needs some hands on feeling somewhat. I was manage to torque one of them down with t-wrench. others by hand. I also used new bolts
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:48 PM   #18
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The answer to the access issues is a 10mm flex socket - removing/reinstalling was a piece of cake.

For the torque thing, it seems low, but keep in mind the part is plastic (with metal sleeves where the bolts go) and it's not really pressurized.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:38 PM   #19
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This is the same gasket which caused my "lean bank 1" code. I replaced the injectors at night, using a flashlight and the black gasket stuck to the black plastic cover, then dropped, without a sound...into the darkness...

2 months later, after I tried ... everything... I pulled the passenger cover, sure enough the gasket was not there anymore..
I give it as a posibillity that if you have a broken gasket or loosened screws, it will suck air and possibly throw a code.

I was very worried about the screws that fasten the cover and about not overtightening them, until i saw the steel sleeves. Although one should still be carefull, a small , but firm amount of torque on those should be ok.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:49 PM   #20
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Exactly what/where is the green bracket of death (GBOD)? Thanks for the tips, folks. Sounds like it shouldn't be too hard.
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:04 AM   #21
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Fuel pipe/injector protector bracket. You'll see it.
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:37 PM   #22
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That is the only place my car leaks oil, the passenger side. do you guys change out the PCV valve also??
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:18 PM   #23
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^^ The PCV valve is not near the valve cover.

Last edited by audsyn; 10-23-2009 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:53 PM   #24
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That is the only place my car leaks oil, the passenger side. do you guys change out the PCV valve also??
Wrong end of the PCV system. The PCV valve is where the blowby enters the intake and gets sucked into the engine, this is where fresh air gets pulled into the heads, and then pulled through to the PCV valve.
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:01 PM   #25
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ha seems everybody having this issue of the passenger side leaking. mine has leaked for like the last month or so. replacing it next week when the dealer gets it in.
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