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Old 01-28-2010, 12:59 AM   #26
txl146
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I just ordered that kit from harborfreight...

motohippy, how does it work? any details?
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:03 AM   #27
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It really works on the rear (for '98-'01 at least, I'm not going to speak to what I haven't done). Comes with a bunch of different adapter plates, just a matter of choosing the right one at each step. It should work with the knuckle fully removed, so long as you have it clamped down really damn well. IMHO, it would be a hell of a lot easier with the knuckle on the car, just to keep things steady, as well as to give you somewhere to brace a wrench. I followed MSA5TT0201 basically to the letter, and really only had trouble with was pulling the lateral link bolt. Bastard was fused into the bushings. I'll post a full description of it once I get the pics off my camera.
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:08 AM   #28
txl146
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Please post write up on how you pressed out/in the bearing. Did it require a lot of force to remove the old bearing?

Just spent $90 ordering the kit, which is roughly how much dealer would charge for labor.
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Old 03-13-2010, 09:55 AM   #29
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$90 Harbor Freight tool I purchased seems to be exact copy of tool Subaru dealer uses.

$90 HF bearing puller
$30 Seal driver
$80 Slide hammer & hub puller

For $200 you will have nearly all tools necessary to remove / replace wheel bearing without having to use press.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:25 AM   #30
nftyper
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Im so happy i found this write up with pics. Thanks for putting this up.

Update: Just bought a low milage spindle and installed it. Went very smooth with this write up.

Last edited by nftyper; 10-29-2011 at 06:40 PM. Reason: update
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:48 AM   #31
txl146
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Glad it worked out for you. I find it so much easier to just replace the knuckle with low miles driven in west coast.
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
$90 Harbor Freight tool I purchased seems to be exact copy of tool Subaru dealer uses.

$90 HF bearing puller
$30 Seal driver
$80 Slide hammer & hub puller

For $200 you will have nearly all tools necessary to remove / replace wheel bearing without having to use press.
which HF bearing puller did you end up getting?
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:59 PM   #33
txl146
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:18 PM   #34
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How exactly do you do the work with that kit?
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:50 PM   #35
txl146
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:03 AM   #36
ride5000
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thanks txl
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:17 PM   #37
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Wow. 35 min and one hub is out of the parts car. Now off to buy some cotter pins and start on my car!
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:04 PM   #38
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Update: can't get the axle nut loose on mine. Guess I'll try again tomorrow!
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:08 AM   #39
ride5000
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the nut is best broken loose with a big impact gun.

you may have issues with the axle splines being frozen in the hub. on one i had to remove everything INCLUDING the axle, put the knuckle in a vise, and then bang the **** out of the axle with a sledgehammer to get it to break loose.

the axle metal is softer to prevent shattering and it will deform easily. you can keep the nut partially threaded on, put the socket back on, and then hit that. as it was i ended up replacing the axle with a spare i had laying around.

a bit of anti-sieze on the splines isn't a bad idea on reassembly.
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:09 AM   #40
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or, if you have a bearing puller, that would work too. the axle has a center detent for the puller pin.
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:53 AM   #41
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Uncle Tattoo, did you try to remove the axle nut with the wheel on the ground?

Get a 32nm socket and big breaker bar to break it loose!
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:33 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146
Uncle Tattoo, did you try to remove the axle nut with the wheel on the ground?

Get a 32nm socket and big breaker bar to break it loose!
On the ground and in the air. It took a breaker bar with an STi mid pipe cheater bat and 260 ft/lbs of uncle tattoo to busy it loose. Everything else was a snap!

I highly agree with renting the tie rod kit, buying a 6pt 32mm socket, and a long heavy cheater bar. Oh and a new axle nut. And cotter pins lol. Good thing there's an advance auto within 2 blocks of me.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:04 AM   #43
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subscribe

btw - the write-ups on these procedures are excellent!

Thanks to those who took the time to document them so well
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #44
txl146
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I had to replace wheel bearing/knuckles on all but front driver side knuckle within 500 miles of each other. Surprisingly front driver side wheel bearing is still holding up after 105k miles.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:25 AM   #45
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ball joint replacement can be easy or impossible. The easy way is buy the turn in concepts ball joint removal tool. which threads onto the bottom of your ball joint, and then a counter nut pulls out from he knuckle. Took 5 mins. I have one to loan for ship charge.

The hard way is to pb blast, hammer, heat, bend, break stuff and nothing moves and then swear for hours. and keep car on jackstands while you wait for the right tool.

also bought the harbor freight wheel bearing set for $90, set of dies and threaded rod with counter nuts to press bearings out and then pull back in. worked very nicely. and will invest $60 in a slide hammer to remove hub so bearings can be replaced with knuckle on the car.

fyi here's another two threads on rear wheel bearing replacement:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1925081
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:56 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
the nut is best broken loose with a big impact gun.

you may have issues with the axle splines being frozen in the hub. on one i had to remove everything INCLUDING the axle, put the knuckle in a vise, and then bang the **** out of the axle with a sledgehammer to get it to break loose.

the axle metal is softer to prevent shattering and it will deform easily. you can keep the nut partially threaded on, put the socket back on, and then hit that. as it was i ended up replacing the axle with a spare i had laying around.

a bit of anti-sieze on the splines isn't a bad idea on reassembly.
I just replaced both front axles on a recently purchased 200k miles MY02 wagon that spent all of its life in New England. I am very fortunate that both came out of the hubs with no effort at all. I think the anti-seize is a great idea.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #47
txl146
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I am going to be installing front EMP axles and driver side knuckle this weekend. Will make sure to post some more pictures.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:48 PM   #48
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Pickle forks are a bad idea, can easily damage the ball joint boot. A large pry bar on the lower control arm and hammer on the control arm is better.
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:59 AM   #49
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Where did you get your new 05 hub assembly from?
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #50
txl146
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I found used hub assembly / knuckle from eBay. Much more cost effective than replacing wheel bearing, although there are risks involved.
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