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Old 05-08-2002, 02:47 AM   #1
Blk Devil RS
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Default first thing to do for my 2.5RS

what's up guys? I just got my MY99 2.5 RS about a month ago. I love this car a lot and having tons of fun with it so far. I want to mod this car into a weekend street racing mechine. What would be the first thing for me to do? Thank you.
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Old 05-08-2002, 02:54 AM   #2
Eric SS
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I would go for Stromung Dual tip exhaust and an intake of some sort.

Eric
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Old 05-08-2002, 12:17 PM   #3
Stubaru
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Replace the RE-92's and then an upgraded rear sway. I think thats where most people have started.

Stu
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Old 05-08-2002, 12:49 PM   #4
Vestas
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You have two main areas to focus on:

Power/Engine and Suspension. You may not believe it, but you'll get more bang for your buck if you focus on suspension first. The reality is, the 2000 2.5RS has limited potential for true power gains unless you're going to spend a LOT of money (well over 7-10 grand) doing an engine swap or a complete rebuild + turbo.

So that said here's your engine options:

1) Intakes - Can be had for anywhere from $100-$300 in styles that keep your stock airbox or remove it and replace it with a different filter. Popular models are Ganzflow, Injen, Cobb. HP gains claimed to be in the 7-18hp range but usually unclear at what RPM etc. "Butt-dyno's" confirm more throttle response.

2) Exhaust - Lot's of choices here, Prodrive, STI, Stromung, Borla, Cobb, MRT. Most seem to be around a preference of look and sound, as they all generate about a 5-10HP increase (again a little unclear at what RPM etc... but butt dyno's confirm a gain, works best with an intake). Probably going to cost you $300-$500 for a muffler.

2a) Intermediate Exhaust pipe - Only one or two types out there, most go with the Stromung. Increases exhause flow a bit more, runs about $150-$200 and increase exhaust sound as well. Not sure on HP gains with it.

3) Pulleys - THere are two types of pulley upgrades.... the accessory pulleys (lightened), these replace your AC/Alternator/etc (usually come in sets of three) and are lighter to reduce the strain on the engine a bit. Generally gives you a bit more punch but the HP gains are nominal (butt dyno's reveal a gain but not a big one). Usually run about $250 (not counting decent tools to put 'em in).

There's also the Underdrive pulley, this will certainly give you HP gains but as it's name implies, it underdrives your accessories. Most common side effect is headlight dimming at idle, especially while running a big radio with the AC on. It costs about $200 as well and can be a bear to install (muscle power wise).

4) Powerchips, two kinds. The scoobysport torque chip or the ProECM chip, both cost about $250 and both have the same claims, an increase in torque and a smoother RPM curve plus better ECU learning curve. Install is easy if you've done wiring before.

5) S-AFC - Fuel control. There's some debate as to whether or not you really need one, but ideally it's meant to help your car adjust to the intakes/exhaust that may fool the ECU into running too rich. THey are kinda pricey, about $300 and are really just a tuning tool, won't get you much power but if necessary will make your car more efficient. Wouldn't get one unless you need one (or unless you like it's "bling bling" value, they do look cool).


That's about it for the "cheap" bolt-on stuff you can do. If you want to go turbo eventually skip the exhaust mentioned above, you'll need bigger stuff for a turbo'd car (2.5" to 3.0") but keep in mind a quality turbo route on a MY00 RS will run you well over $10k by the time your done.


Suspension:

Your options are much wider here and a lot has to do with personal preference.

1) Sway bars - Easy upgrade, get a new rear sway bar, somewhere in the 18-20mm range. Probably run you about $120-$150, I'd recommend whiteline products but there are others out there. You can get front bars as well too but most folks think the RS stock bar is heavy enough.

2) Endlinks - If your suspension still isn't tight enough for you, get some new endlinks. Kartboy makes good ones but so does whiteline, cusco and several other manufacturers. Probably run you another $100 or so.

2a) Endlinks to tight? Get new bushings instead, again kartboy makes a good set so do others, cheaper than endlinks, about $40 a pair (for front or rear).

3) Strut bars. Most would argue these aren't necessary in a GC8, the unibody construction is already pretty tight around the strut towers, but they DO look good and some do claim a difference with them in. Fronts or rears will run you around $180 each and install very easily.

4) Tires - Get rid of those bridge"rock" RE92's! Especially if you're gonna autocross. Upgrade to a high performance street tire, Kuhmo, Falken, Sumitomo, Pirelli and several other brands make great tires, a lot has to do with personal preference and budget. Kuhmo's are the cheapest but because of their price get a lot of flack for being "cheap". I run 'em and like 'em but I hear good things about the others as well. Expect to pay anywehre from $80-$200 a tire depending on what you want.

5) Wheels - The stock 16" wheels are good all around performers in size and weight, some go with 17" wheels for reduced tire roll but again, you're increasing the weight of your wheel which has trade offs as well. Depending on what you want expect to pay $100-$300+ per wheel (and you'll need new tires too).

6) Suspension - New struts and springs. Lot's of choices abound, the KYB AGX adjustable struts are popular (A set will run you about $400) and springs by Edelbock, Eibach, H&R are all popular (a set will go about $250-350). Usually they lower the car around an inch as well. I'd recommend tracking down a set of Ver 5 struts if you can, these are used in the infamous P1 suspension and are about as stiff as you'll want to go for a car that sees regular street use.


Whew, all that said, I'd recommend suspension over power first. You'll get better handling for far less money then you'll get some nominal HP gains. However, if you're dying to get at least a little more power upfront, get a new air intake, it'll make you feel better and give you something to show off inside the engine bay
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Old 05-08-2002, 12:50 PM   #5
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Rear sway bar = biggest bang for the buck. 20mm or adjustable 20 22 24mm. Don't forget the endlinks too, the stock ones are not rigid enough.
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Old 05-08-2002, 02:42 PM   #6
Blk Devil RS
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THANK YOU GUYS. SURE I LEARN A LOT, SPECIALLY FROM VESTAS. I-CLUB RULES.
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Old 05-08-2002, 02:48 PM   #7
Vestas
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I should disclaimer the above as a culmination of everything I've learned here I take no credit for the info beyond putting it in one post
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Old 05-08-2002, 03:33 PM   #8
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blk Devil RS
I want to mod this car into a weekend street racing mechine.
no no no noO!!!!!!!! Don't street race. Do it at the track. I don't want to hear anything bad happen to you or others.

You are better off modifying it for the track (road course) and racing your enemies there.
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Old 05-08-2002, 10:06 PM   #9
Matt
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stubaru
Replace the RE-92's and then an upgraded rear sway. I think thats where most people have started.

Stu
I agree competely. Tires and a swaybar if you're on a budget.

No budget = TEINS/Leda/DMS, tires, sway bars front/back, brake upgrade, intake, exhaust.
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Old 05-09-2002, 12:59 AM   #10
Seeing StaRS
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VESTAS,

Excellent, excellent post. I can tell you spent some time on that one, filled with very concise and useful information in there.
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Old 05-09-2002, 03:01 AM   #11
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yeah a stock wrx wagon sway will fit so just find one that no one is using...its not much but from 13 to 17mm is noticable....and yeah exhaust.

Andres
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Old 05-10-2002, 12:39 AM   #12
mattzak
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thanx for postin' that stuff vestas

like blk devil i'm about to start modin' my car. i think i've decided on doing the intake and rear sway bar first. need to clean up the left side of the engine bay..lol
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Old 05-10-2002, 09:24 AM   #13
Hondakilla
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Sway bar, shifter, tires.
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Old 05-12-2002, 12:26 AM   #14
Vestas
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Re-reading it I failed to mention one more thing:

Clutch & Flywheel: A clutch alone won't get you more horsepower or speed but might be something you want if you drive agressively (the stock clutch won't put up with serious autocross/street abuse for too long, if you beat on it expect to get about 2-3 years out of it tops). However, if you're gonna do the clutch, it's the most affordable time to do the flywheel (and vice/versa). A lightened flywheel/clutch set up will get you more horsepower as well. Most would recommend the Excedy set up (a the whole flywheel/clutch is nearly 2lbs lighter than the stock flywheel alone!) However you can find quality parts by other makers as well like ACT. It's offly pricey however, about 350-450 for a clutch and another 400-500 for a good flywheel.
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Old 05-12-2002, 02:50 AM   #15
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since you have a MY99 like me be extremly careful with intakes, i would wait a little while to get an intake because you will blow the MAF. im working on something that might fix it but for now nothing has come of my little project. so to start off get better tires and a sway bar. short shifters are really nice. i like the Kartboy myself. go to an autocross try to learn as much as you can before you make the car faster. having a fast car means nothing if you cant control it safely

good luck and hapy tuning,
Nate
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Old 05-12-2002, 12:06 PM   #16
Blk Devil RS
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hey hey, I heard about the MAP problem of MY99 too. An Apex'i S-AFC will cure the problem. I might gonna have the cat-back, intake, and the S-AFC done together sometime later. but now, I will focus on the sway bar, front and back brace bar first.
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Old 05-12-2002, 01:24 PM   #17
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no no no, and AFC will correct for an inproper reading due to the waves throwing the MAF out of wack but it will still fail after a while. the vibration from the frame of the car and the motor dislodge the hot film and it gets sucked into the intake track. that cuases the MAF to be a 300 dollar peice of plastic. im trying to use a aftermarket piggyback (greddy e manage) so i can hook up a MAF from a different year impreza. changing the MAF is the only way to solve this problem.

Nate

oh and i know all to well about this becuase i have blown 3 mafs in 6 months using both home made and "real" intakes.
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Old 05-12-2002, 01:52 PM   #18
Blk Devil RS
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damn, that was pretty important information. All the MY99 newbies out there, listen to NateDogg. Can you tell more about what is piggyback and how you did it? Greatly appreciate.
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Old 05-12-2002, 02:53 PM   #19
Hondakilla
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You could just get a TEC-II and that would take care of your problem...but seems like a lot of hassle for an Intake...y dont you look at other things like Full Stainless Exhaust or Cylinder Heads, Cam shafts.
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