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Old 09-20-2009, 08:58 PM   #1
snowjob
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Default Swapped na/ej25 Smoking engine question

I bought a legacy with a bad engine two weeks ago. The old engine puked and filled the exhaust with coolant and oil.
I had a ej25 with heads with bent valves, I also had a a spare set of heads.
I took the heads with the bent valves off and put on the other set of heads.
I put the new motor back in, and fired it up. Started right away but the car smoked like a 50yr old trucker. No surprizing considering all of the cooland and oil that was dumped into it.
So after running for 25 min, the smoke reduced dramatically, I took it our for a rip, oil leve is ok, coolant level is ok. but it still smokes, like crazy.
I let it cool down for 3 hours, and then went for a drive again and it did not smoke until it got warm, then it smoked so bad I could not see the end of the laneway. The smoke is white and smells like oil not coolant.
I did adjust the valves to .2mm intake and exhaust. Would this cause it?
Anyone know what could cause so much white smoke?
Thanks for the help.
Frazer
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:24 PM   #2
reddevil
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White is either coolant or plain raw gas.

Smell your oil. Did you mss with the injectors at all?
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Old 09-21-2009, 07:17 AM   #3
Storm
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If the old engine "puked" filling the exhaust with coolant and oil....and you went and slapped those heads onto another motor......why would it not do the same thing? Did you use new gaskets? Did you check the heads or block for flatness? On the new motor that used to have bent valves, were the pistons okay? Do you now have one with a hole in it? Did you get all of the oil and coolant out of the exhaust before putting it back on?


So many questions, so little information.

Jay
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:33 PM   #4
snowjob
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Hi Jay,
I was really tired when I wrote this sorry for the lack of details.
There are three motors I’m talking about here.
Motor 1: The motor that died – nothing was used from this motor.
Motor 2: This motor was running fine, hit a deer, timing belt skipped a tooth and bent 2 valves. Heads were discarded and shortblock was kept.
Motor 3: Engine had piston slap and was pulled for a swap. I took the heads off and threw away the shortblock.

What I did was take the shortblock from engine 2 and the heads from 3 and put them together with new gaskets. I used a feeler guage to messure the valve clearance and it measured .2mm intake and exhaust.
The pistons all looked ok, no problems here. I did not empty the oil and coolant from the exhaust, I know I should have, but didn’t.

The car starts fine, sounds like a diesel car and when It gets warm smokes.

I hope this makes sense.
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:49 PM   #5
Storm
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What block is #2, and what headgaskets are you using?

If block #2 is a phase I EJ25D with stock pistons AND the gaskets are phase II.....the noise is the pistons kissing the heads because the gasket is too thin.

Jay

Edit: holycrap....it says I'm a guru now....
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:01 PM   #6
yarrgh
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intake and exhaust have different valve lash, i forget the exact numbers at the moment. Fix that. I'm assuming that since you can set valve lash that this is a SOHC. And it'll proabably be a while to burn all of the coolant/oil from the exhaust.
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Old 09-21-2009, 07:15 PM   #7
snowjob
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All three engines were 2001 SOHC 2.5 N/As Ph2's.
Hmm on the lash adjustment. I read from the tech manual that the intake was between.
.20mm and .02mm and the exhaust was between .25mm and .20mm
I put them both to .20mm.
I agree with it taking a while to burn off everything. I think it will probably take an hour or so.

FB
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:35 PM   #8
yarrgh
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Intake: 0.200.02 mm (0.00790.0008 in)
Exhaust: 0.250.02 mm (0.00980.0008 in)

straight from the manual. Sounds like your exhaust is a tad tight. I doubt that's part of the problem, but it can't hurt to correct it.
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:47 PM   #9
Storm
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Being tight wouldn't account for the diesel sound or smoke. I'd almost think to look at the idler bearings again. You can try a compression / leakdown test to see if you're getting a good seal from the valves.

Also, if this bottom end is the one that had filled with coolant/oil, it's possible you hurt a rod bearing from hydro-locking (at least partially).

Jay
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:10 PM   #10
snowjob
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Thanks for the imput everyone, I partially solved most of the problems.
I mistakenly had the cylinder's TDC backwards. The result was the valves were way out of adjustment. Yes, I know, I'm a dumbass.
Today I lined everything up and when I fired it up it ran smoothly without any problems.
Almost.
I still have the smoking issue. When the engine gets hot it smokes like crazy. It's definitly oil.
My question is: should I keep driving it and let it burn off, or what would happen if I unbolted it and flushed it with water, would I destroy the cats?

Thanks for the help

Frazer
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:17 PM   #11
Storm
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If you take the exhaust off and separate the cat section, you can flush the manifold and midpipe with brake cleaner to get rid of most of the oil. You may wanna use a wad of paper towel and compressed air to shoot through the tubing as well. I wouldn't spray anything into the cats though. Cleaning everything else should minimize the amount of junk to burn off. At that point, just drive it till it's clean.

Glad the motors running smooth again.
Jay
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:54 AM   #12
snowjob
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Thanks Jay,
I took off the rear section of the exhaust, and cleaned it out with brake cleaner. It really wasn't that grimmy. I was surpized.
I've got over 100 miles on the engine and it's still smoking like a chimney. when cold it does not smoke, only when hot. I have noticed that is smokes a great deal more when I gear down coming to a stop.
Is there anything I could be missing, it seems like it should have burned off all the oil after 100 miles.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to check.
Thanks.
Frazer
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