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Old 11-22-2010, 03:44 PM   #176
oh_crap_its_him
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPM Coachworks View Post
So you're saying using the GR brackets and drilling to the roof was more of a pain than drilling into the original brackets?
Having done both, I'd say they are about equal. I left my brackets on the car though when I drilled and tapped them. Would have been much easier removing them first and using a vice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by krazy View Post
Do you have any use for the GD bracket anymore? Wanna sell it to me? I wanna use it for a project.
I have the two from my car, pay postage and they are yours. Might be just as well to get them from the dealership though I dunno?
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:03 PM   #177
JPM Coachworks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh_crap_its_him View Post
Having done both, I'd say they are about equal. I left my brackets on the car though when I drilled and tapped them. Would have been much easier removing them first and using a vice...


I have the two from my car, pay postage and they are yours. Might be just as well to get them from the dealership though I dunno?
Wait, so you have two sets, one GD and one GR, of the brackets on your car basically?
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:38 PM   #178
oh_crap_its_him
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No, my wagon had one set of GD brackets already mounted. I removed these because I wanted to use one of the holes to mount the GR brackets. I'm not sure why they only put one set of the GD brackets on the wagon? If I were doing the install on a 02-07 wagon I would just drill and tap the rear brackets and use one of the the forward roof rack mount holes to mount another set of the GD brackets. Maybe these pics will help explain a little better? You can see the single bracket still mounted towards the rear of the vehicle.

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Old 11-22-2010, 06:34 PM   #179
JPM Coachworks
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^^

Understood. So you're saying its easier to tap the GD brackets than it is to drill a new hole into the roof and mount the GR ones...or am I just roof bracket retarded atm. I assumed it would be much easier to modify the GD brackets than to actually drill a new hole through the roof skin and worry about other issues down the road. I think this is what you're agreeing to.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:53 PM   #180
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I'm assuming you are doing the install on a sedan? I would go with your existing brackets and just tap them, otherwise you'll have holes that will need plugged. Just remove them and use a vice, it would make it much easier. Just a note, I paid $70 for the GR brackets and nuts from the dealership.
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:02 AM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh_crap_its_him View Post
Having done both, I'd say they are about equal. I left my brackets on the car though when I drilled and tapped them. Would have been much easier removing them first and using a vice...


I have the two from my car, pay postage and they are yours. Might be just as well to get them from the dealership though I dunno?
PMd you man.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:41 PM   #182
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I have a thule roof rack with the towers that attach to the top of the window sills. I plan on doing this custom rack install but can I reuse my towers or will I need to buy new ones? From reading the initial description it looks like I'll need to get some new ones but I just wanted to double check. If I have to but new ones, will these work: http://www.rackattack.com/product-pa...-foot-pack.asp
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:38 PM   #183
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To those of you that have a GD... When drilling and tapping the passenger side, would it have been easier to drop the headliner and rotate the clips 180 degrees. I noticed that the holes were not centered perfectly, so it would offset it to one side but not by that much. Are there keyways or something that keeps you from reversing the clips and facing the out arrow in? Let me know!!
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:26 PM   #184
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Would you all be interested in something like this if it was available? It replaces all the stock brackets and gives you real threaded holes. Remove, replace, attach rack. SOLID MOUNTING SURFACE. If enough interest I would get some made in aluminum. I am thinking, introductory price of like $20/each and after that $25/each.



Let me know. If it is a big enough project, I will put out the time and money to do it.

EDIT: Made a thread topic in regards to it. Vote here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2100812

Last edited by krazy; 12-10-2010 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:50 AM   #185
NickE
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Worked out great thanks for the thread. We used a rivet gun for some added strength.
Attached Images
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Old 01-03-2011, 03:55 PM   #186
al_undy
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Default 99 Obs

@Oh_Crap
I have a 99 OBS and it looks like the the factory rack is screwed to brackets using two screws at the 4 corners. Any thoughts on whether the yakima or thule permanent towers could be attached at these points to replace the factory cross bars?
Thanks
Al
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:39 PM   #187
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I used the original holes along with drilling 4 new holes. I also used the Yakima 6- landing pads because they look soooo much better when the rack is off of the car. The fairing i have is a 44in which is a little too wide so it needs some trimming before I install it.



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Old 01-04-2011, 08:59 AM   #188
oh_crap_its_him
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al_undy View Post
@Oh_Crap
I have a 99 OBS and it looks like the the factory rack is screwed to brackets using two screws at the 4 corners. Any thoughts on whether the yakima or thule permanent towers could be attached at these points to replace the factory cross bars?
Thanks
Al
Without seeing a pic of the setup I'm not sure. I would assume that you could fab something up though to mount them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JungleFevre View Post
I used the original holes along with drilling 4 new holes. I also used the Yakima 6- landing pads because they look soooo much better when the rack is off of the car. The fairing i have is a 44in which is a little too wide so it needs some trimming before I install it.
Those landing pads look great! I would love to be able to go with a smaller landing pad but as it is now my bindings just barely clear the roof with my board placed bindings down. Great work though!
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:24 PM   #189
RoxyTheImpreza
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question... might have been asked or mentioned in here.... but what about taking the bracket out.... plugging one of the holes for the bracket mount and using the other as the hole to hold the landing pad down? this sound easy/best solution for a secure mounting option...
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:30 PM   #190
krazy
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Roxy, the holes are within the rain gutters so they are considerably lower than the roof line.

My guy has the prototypes done, they are being bead blasted and I just have to pick them up. Ill have pics soon! I cant sell on this site due to the whole vendor status thing, but I will have them for a limited run probably in the SCIC Classifieds once I test fit them on my car, and see how they fair. Not really out there to make a profit, but rather offer something for the community. These would probably have a similar price point as a full set of yakima q-clips.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:41 AM   #191
krazy
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:49 PM   #192
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I did this instillation.... the only problem I have is that the rear bar slides back and forth through the feet. I have a metal clamp to stop it from sliding all the way out. Is there anyway to fix this problem? thanks
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:40 PM   #193
bsbretly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChronicPoe View Post
I did this instillation.... the only problem I have is that the rear bar slides back and forth through the feet. I have a metal clamp to stop it from sliding all the way out. Is there anyway to fix this problem? thanks
If you used the Thule feet, there's an allen head screw that tightens the feet to the cross bar right above the lock. You have to slide the little plastic piece down which exposes the screw.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:20 PM   #194
cueballsi
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Default WHISPBAR Install

INSTALLED! Used 50mm Grab screws, or set screws. Used Stainless JAM nuts too, thinner than the regular nuts, didn't push up the gutter as much.

www.mcmaster.com

M6 x1.0 X 50mm 92015A560 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3062/=bhq924
M6 x1.0 JAM nut 93935A335

I found this stuff at a local specialty fastener shop but these are some suggestions

Also used this to remove the gutter... MONEY! http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html

Just put under the gutter and unclip by pulling towards the front of the car on each one. I use the one like an "L"

Where I found the idea from
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2027170



Last edited by cueballsi; 03-18-2011 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:58 AM   #195
vision.dynamix
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On the stock brackets, is there room to thread a bolt up from the bottom once drilled/tapped off the car? I feel like this would be the strongest solution..
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:16 AM   #196
krazy
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Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
On the stock brackets, is there room to thread a bolt up from the bottom once drilled/tapped off the car? I feel like this would be the strongest solution..
Take a look at this:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2100812
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:19 AM   #197
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Thats a nice piece, but doesnt answer my question. And being from the Northeast, I have strong hate for threads in anything Aluminum. Spent WAY too much time and money Helicoiling stuff.

EDIT: Get those milled out of SS.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:25 AM   #198
krazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
Thats a nice piece, but doesnt answer my question. And being from the Northeast, I have strong hate for threads in anything Aluminum. Spent WAY too much time and money Helicoiling stuff.

EDIT: Get those milled out of SS.
The first run I do, if it poses a problem, I will move to a different material. Id have to check the price difference for 6061, 7075, or 300 series stainless.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:31 AM   #199
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Im sure it'll be fine for the first few months, a year even. But it's aluminum and there's no way to get around the galvanic corrosion of putting a steel/stainless steel bolt into it.

Look at all the people with Brembos. I had to helicoil the Brembos on my STI with 800 miles on it.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:33 AM   #200
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Maybe you can put a Stainless Steel insert (a la HeliCoil) into those from the start? That'd work well if you're Hard Anodizing the rest of the piece..
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