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11-22-2010, 03:44 PM | #176 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 205434
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Utah
Vehicle:2009 Toyota MGM |
Quote:
I have the two from my car, pay postage and they are yours. Might be just as well to get them from the dealership though I dunno?
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11-22-2010, 05:03 PM | #177 | |
Former Vendor
Member#: 190108
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:2008 WRX STI LR |
Quote:
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11-22-2010, 05:38 PM | #178 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 205434
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Utah
Vehicle:2009 Toyota MGM |
No, my wagon had one set of GD brackets already mounted. I removed these because I wanted to use one of the holes to mount the GR brackets. I'm not sure why they only put one set of the GD brackets on the wagon? If I were doing the install on a 02-07 wagon I would just drill and tap the rear brackets and use one of the the forward roof rack mount holes to mount another set of the GD brackets. Maybe these pics will help explain a little better? You can see the single bracket still mounted towards the rear of the vehicle.
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11-22-2010, 06:34 PM | #179 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 190108
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:2008 WRX STI LR |
^^
Understood. So you're saying its easier to tap the GD brackets than it is to drill a new hole into the roof and mount the GR ones...or am I just roof bracket retarded atm. I assumed it would be much easier to modify the GD brackets than to actually drill a new hole through the roof skin and worry about other issues down the road. I think this is what you're agreeing to. |
11-22-2010, 07:53 PM | #180 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 205434
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Utah
Vehicle:2009 Toyota MGM |
I'm assuming you are doing the install on a sedan? I would go with your existing brackets and just tap them, otherwise you'll have holes that will need plugged. Just remove them and use a vice, it would make it much easier. Just a note, I paid $70 for the GR brackets and nuts from the dealership.
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11-23-2010, 12:02 AM | #181 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 56400
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Southern California
Vehicle:2004 Subaru STi-SOLD custom roofrack brackets! |
Quote:
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11-24-2010, 08:41 PM | #182 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 73374
Join Date: Oct 2004
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I have a thule roof rack with the towers that attach to the top of the window sills. I plan on doing this custom rack install but can I reuse my towers or will I need to buy new ones? From reading the initial description it looks like I'll need to get some new ones but I just wanted to double check. If I have to but new ones, will these work: http://www.rackattack.com/product-pa...-foot-pack.asp
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12-06-2010, 12:38 PM | #183 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 249582
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Charlotte, NC
Vehicle:2007 STi OBP |
To those of you that have a GD... When drilling and tapping the passenger side, would it have been easier to drop the headliner and rotate the clips 180 degrees. I noticed that the holes were not centered perfectly, so it would offset it to one side but not by that much. Are there keyways or something that keeps you from reversing the clips and facing the out arrow in? Let me know!!
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12-10-2010, 04:26 PM | #184 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 56400
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Southern California
Vehicle:2004 Subaru STi-SOLD custom roofrack brackets! |
Would you all be interested in something like this if it was available? It replaces all the stock brackets and gives you real threaded holes. Remove, replace, attach rack. SOLID MOUNTING SURFACE. If enough interest I would get some made in aluminum. I am thinking, introductory price of like $20/each and after that $25/each.
Let me know. If it is a big enough project, I will put out the time and money to do it. EDIT: Made a thread topic in regards to it. Vote here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2100812 Last edited by krazy; 12-10-2010 at 04:37 PM. |
12-12-2010, 02:50 AM | #185 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 266191
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Worked out great thanks for the thread. We used a rivet gun for some added strength.
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01-03-2011, 03:55 PM | #186 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 210503
Join Date: May 2009
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99 Obs
@Oh_Crap
I have a 99 OBS and it looks like the the factory rack is screwed to brackets using two screws at the 4 corners. Any thoughts on whether the yakima or thule permanent towers could be attached at these points to replace the factory cross bars? Thanks Al |
01-03-2011, 05:39 PM | #187 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 260153
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Milton, WV
Vehicle:2005 Baja Turbo 5-Speed |
I used the original holes along with drilling 4 new holes. I also used the Yakima 6- landing pads because they look soooo much better when the rack is off of the car. The fairing i have is a 44in which is a little too wide so it needs some trimming before I install it.
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01-04-2011, 08:59 AM | #188 | ||
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 205434
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Utah
Vehicle:2009 Toyota MGM |
Quote:
Quote:
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02-07-2011, 08:24 PM | #189 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 205171
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: San Antonio, TX
Vehicle:2004 Forester XT Cayenne Red Pearl |
question... might have been asked or mentioned in here.... but what about taking the bracket out.... plugging one of the holes for the bracket mount and using the other as the hole to hold the landing pad down? this sound easy/best solution for a secure mounting option...
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02-10-2011, 01:30 PM | #190 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 56400
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Southern California
Vehicle:2004 Subaru STi-SOLD custom roofrack brackets! |
Roxy, the holes are within the rain gutters so they are considerably lower than the roof line.
My guy has the prototypes done, they are being bead blasted and I just have to pick them up. Ill have pics soon! I cant sell on this site due to the whole vendor status thing, but I will have them for a limited run probably in the SCIC Classifieds once I test fit them on my car, and see how they fair. Not really out there to make a profit, but rather offer something for the community. These would probably have a similar price point as a full set of yakima q-clips. |
02-14-2011, 12:41 AM | #191 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 56400
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Southern California
Vehicle:2004 Subaru STi-SOLD custom roofrack brackets! |
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02-18-2011, 09:49 PM | #192 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 185255
Join Date: Jul 2008
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Lake Tahoe
Vehicle:2007 STI SWP |
I did this instillation.... the only problem I have is that the rear bar slides back and forth through the feet. I have a metal clamp to stop it from sliding all the way out. Is there anyway to fix this problem? thanks
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02-18-2011, 11:40 PM | #193 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 73374
Join Date: Oct 2004
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If you used the Thule feet, there's an allen head screw that tightens the feet to the cross bar right above the lock. You have to slide the little plastic piece down which exposes the screw.
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03-18-2011, 07:20 PM | #194 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 202736
Join Date: Feb 2009
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX- 6spd - MBP 1992 Civic VX 40MPG |
WHISPBAR Install
INSTALLED! Used 50mm Grab screws, or set screws. Used Stainless JAM nuts too, thinner than the regular nuts, didn't push up the gutter as much.
www.mcmaster.com M6 x1.0 X 50mm 92015A560 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3062/=bhq924 M6 x1.0 JAM nut 93935A335 I found this stuff at a local specialty fastener shop but these are some suggestions Also used this to remove the gutter... MONEY! http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html Just put under the gutter and unclip by pulling towards the front of the car on each one. I use the one like an "L" Where I found the idea from http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2027170 Last edited by cueballsi; 03-18-2011 at 08:46 PM. |
03-23-2011, 07:58 AM | #195 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 139955
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:2015 Subaru STI 17Forester / 18Crosstrek |
On the stock brackets, is there room to thread a bolt up from the bottom once drilled/tapped off the car? I feel like this would be the strongest solution..
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03-23-2011, 11:16 AM | #196 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 56400
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Southern California
Vehicle:2004 Subaru STi-SOLD custom roofrack brackets! |
Quote:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2100812 |
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03-23-2011, 11:19 AM | #197 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 139955
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:2015 Subaru STI 17Forester / 18Crosstrek |
Thats a nice piece, but doesnt answer my question. And being from the Northeast, I have strong hate for threads in anything Aluminum. Spent WAY too much time and money Helicoiling stuff.
EDIT: Get those milled out of SS. |
03-23-2011, 11:25 AM | #198 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 56400
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Southern California
Vehicle:2004 Subaru STi-SOLD custom roofrack brackets! |
The first run I do, if it poses a problem, I will move to a different material. Id have to check the price difference for 6061, 7075, or 300 series stainless.
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03-23-2011, 11:31 AM | #199 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 139955
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:2015 Subaru STI 17Forester / 18Crosstrek |
Im sure it'll be fine for the first few months, a year even. But it's aluminum and there's no way to get around the galvanic corrosion of putting a steel/stainless steel bolt into it.
Look at all the people with Brembos. I had to helicoil the Brembos on my STI with 800 miles on it. |
03-23-2011, 11:33 AM | #200 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 139955
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:2015 Subaru STI 17Forester / 18Crosstrek |
Maybe you can put a Stainless Steel insert (a la HeliCoil) into those from the start? That'd work well if you're Hard Anodizing the rest of the piece..
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