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Old 10-05-2009, 05:10 PM   #1
dr3w
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Default EJ20K Re assembly questions.

Well got my head gaskets so time to throw the heads back on and get her rolling again.. wanted to put some question across first

First off the timing belt marks, on the cam gears I'm good but just to make sure on the crank i align the two lines circled red ? and whats the arrow for circled blue ?


Second my head gaskets are not identical on both sides, is there one side that goes on block and one on head etc ?


Third on my belt tensioner in all the manuals/photos i always see another idler right beside it (circled red) yet i don't have it ? this normal ? car ran great before like this just want to be positive.


Fourth the arrow on the cam caps do they all point towards cam gears like its set up or do they point towards the MK which is circled red ? i laid them beside like that just want to be positive there suppose to be like that?


And last but not least, the head torque specs go something like torque to 24.. then torque to 56 then reverse 180 then reverse 180 again, then re tighten 90 etc etc, are these the proper torque specs ? any updates to these ?

Thanks alot!
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Last edited by dr3w; 10-05-2009 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:56 PM   #2
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cam caps are right..they face toward the timing belt....as for the tensioner....



not 100% on the top one but I think the arrow lines up with the belt
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:58 PM   #3
dr3w
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Alright so cam caps and my tensioner are confirmed good and from that photo i can also see my timing lines on crank seem good. Thanks cb!

All i have left are the head gaskets ? and my torque specs i figger are good..

Last edited by dr3w; 10-05-2009 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:53 PM   #4
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there are 3 variations of the timing belt tensioner that i am aware of. i got 2 different jdm v3 sti longblocks and they had different tensioners, because they changed it midway through MY97 i believe.

earliest is the pivot/rotating style as here:

one of my v3 blocks had this

the other block i have had this style, rocker style, same that you have


then at some point, perhaps MY99ish (marnix or matt knows, they specified in another thread earlier) it was updated yet again and in the spot you have circled they simply added a tiny idler. this is the same as usdm wrx.

the way i understand it, with the style that you and I have (1 rocker with no extra idler) it is meant for a certain slack in the timing belt due to a certain thickness of head gaskets. when it was revised and the other idler was added, the headgaskets were thinner accordingly, so that there was an equal slack in the timing belt (or lack thereof if you understand what im saying).

having said all that, i didnt know when i did mine and i am using the thicker headgaskets with the updated usdm wrx style additional idler. it was a bitch to get the timing right because there was virtually no slack in the timing belt at all (less that there even should have been) and i didnt realize at the time. my car is probably running a bit odd as a result and who knows, my timing is probably off.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:00 PM   #5
dr3w
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^ aw good information so since im using the thick ej20k head gaskets my tensioner is fine then.

What about the head gaskets ? is one side top or bottom or it doesn't matter ?
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:46 PM   #6
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first: put the two red marks on each other for tdc
second
third: newer style is better
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:31 PM   #7
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replace the tensioner...is better to do it now than later if it was to fail....becided you havent tried to put the timing belt on with that tensioner extended like that...you will find out its easier to pay the $105 for a new one
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:52 PM   #8
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you should replace the tensioner. they are only made to be re-compressed (which youll have to do to reinstal the timing belt) by a constant force press which i doubt anybody has. you arent supposed to do it with a vice or a C-clamp or anything like that (even though thats what i did since i kept ****ing up the timing, but i bought a new one and then had to recompress it a few times). if you wanted to go with the usdm wrx style with the new extra idler you would have to buy a new tensioner mounting plate, the tiny idler, and different head gaskets anyways. seems you already bought head gaskets so just buy a new tensioner and call it good.

also for the head gaskets they are made to go a certain way. they are identical gaskets and just go reverse on either side of the block. make sure you line up all the holes (it will slide over some tubes or something and youll know you lined it up. this is of course assuming you have the correct head gaskets. jdm sti metal ones or equivalent cometic or other brand
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:03 AM   #9
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Gaskets are the same for both sides, one goes the other way around, just make sure the copper part on the gaskets aligns with the oil feed bore from block to head.

The arrow on the crank gear is not used afaik, the belt lines up with the marks on the edge of the crank gear and the oil pump.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:05 AM   #10
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The tensioner i have i believe is new when i bought the car the guy had done the timing belt, and i compressed it over a 3 minute time period with a press in the photo its just there for mock up :P

The headgaskets i see what you mean now they only fit one way so that's set!

and my head gaskets i went with the composite ej20k ones. The sti metal one i would of had to wait to long to get them and not long ago i fell onto a website that was saying the 3 layer metal subaru head gaskets are at fault for the known Subaru head gasket failures,no idea if its true but if i lie to myself about it i feel better
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:29 AM   #11
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Those gaskets failures are only applicable to 2.5L engines.

The composite onces are used on every EJ20G engine, also the latter 'EJ20K look-a-like' EJ20G found in JDM WRX Wagon and Forester S/tb and T/tb.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:07 PM   #12
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Great thanks ! got one last small question.. in my ej20k manual matt sent me they say to torque head bolts to 22lbft after going back twice 180 deg's, but my 93-96 regular impreza manual says to torque them to 36ft lb after going back 180 twice... which one is right ?
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:16 PM   #13
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I suppose your 93-96 manual doesn't cover the DOHC engine, so Matt's
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:54 PM   #14
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Ya i went with matts.. heads are on now, first time i torque a head with degree's not ft lb very strange lol.. and the part about going back 180 then 180 again why don't they just tell you to just fully slack them

Got a quick question i torqued my cams down 10nm and 20nm, is it normal the cams are very hard or not able to turn by hand ?
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr3w View Post
Ya i went with matts.. heads are on now, first time i torque a head with degree's not ft lb very strange lol.. and the part about going back 180 then 180 again why don't they just tell you to just fully slack them

Got a quick question i torqued my cams down 10nm and 20nm, is it normal the cams are very hard or not able to turn by hand ?
for the headbolts, the key is (as i understand it) simply to just do everything evenly. you dont even necessarily have to torque then unscrew and retorque. its just a safe practice so that they are all tightened with even and dsitributed contact, and its what the FSM says to do so might as well follow it.

as for cams, i assume youre talking about the arch-shaped cam caps. they are supposed to be pretty tight, you dont want any variance in the cam rotating axis. make sure you are pre-lubing the contact surfaces (both on the lobes/buckets and the cam caps) because on the first startup there needs to be lubrication while the oil pump fills the system. just be careful with the cam cap bolts because those are, of all the bolts in the engine, probably the most prone to getting rounded off, bent/damaged, etc since they are smaller bolts
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:34 PM   #16
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Ya i did the heads like in the book! seems good

So are the cams suppose to be very hard to move or not move at all ? i guess so since i torque them to specs with oil on them aswell, reason i ask is with the honda's i built the cams were movable but very hard.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:39 PM   #17
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They shouldn't be hard to move. are you sure you got the caps all back where they started? They are all numbered and listed with "E" and "I" for exhaust and intake respectively. The numbers correspond to the cylinder number. The arrows point towards the cam gears. If any of these things are wrong they will bind. They should not be tight. If they are you have done something wrong.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:42 PM   #18
dr3w
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^ Ya everything's were it should be, it just gets hard to turn on one cam when i torque it down ill check it out tomorrow probably something stupid becouse i was trying to do it in a rush, mabie just not enuff oil. Thanks!

Last edited by dr3w; 10-06-2009 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:30 PM   #19
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i played it safe and as i went, liberally sprayed eeach surface with carb cleaner and then coated with engine oil. i didnt have any of that special red grease that is usually recommended (im thinking of brydon's build thread, whatever he used)

if you have the cam caps on tight, the cam should not have any resistance at all. when the cam lobes arent on the valves/buckets, the cam should spin freely with your hand (over the limited range where the lobes contact the valves)
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:02 PM   #20
dr3w
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Bon been fighting my cams all day... 3 are amazing, just have one that gives abit of resistance.. i an still spin it by hand but i got to force a tad. One of the cam surfaces (nearest the cam) is half not on bare metal.. looks a tad bumpy (not as bad as it sounds) could i sand it with say 2000grit ? or polish it some how ?
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:31 AM   #21
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^ forget it seems to be fine now.
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:37 PM   #22
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ok good please dont start taking emery cloth to your valvetrain.... if there was something wrong youd have to get it remachined or something. undocumented changes would screw up lots of stuff undoubtedly
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:05 PM   #23
dr3w
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^ lol nope, it still a tad tighter then my other cams.. but everything looks fine and i highly doubt it will cause any problems.

On that note i just realized the oil pump that came with this block has no mounting holes for the center timing belt guide ? is the guide important or should i reinstall my other pump ?

oh and i forget where these brackets go ?



oh and also my 2 banjo bolts for my turbo.. one isnt even a banjo bolt :S this normal ? if not gonna change it

Last edited by dr3w; 10-09-2009 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:30 PM   #24
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Those are your intercooler brackets.

Don't worry about the oil pump bracket you are talking about. I lost a timing belt to one of those pieces of crap. They are more trouble than they are worth.
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:47 PM   #25
dr3w
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^ lol so did the original owner.. he gave me his old timing belt in a box of stuff with the car and it was all used on top because of the guide.. so that solves that thanks.

Also the 2 banjo bolts for the turbo .. one is an actual banjo bolt the other is drilled down the center but not across to allow Preston or oil threw... this cant be normal ?
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