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Old 10-16-2009, 11:11 PM   #1
PitwrkzZ1
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Default So, what should I do next?

Disclaimer: This post contains me asking fr part buying advice. If that makes you uncomfortable in any way, please leave the thread now

I just started autcrossing this past season, and I'm looking to run a full season next year. I never finished below 3rd in my regional novice class (don't hate, it makes me feel good about myself) and I'm looking to win my regional STX class in the upcoming season. I know seat time is most important in this situation, but since I'm away at college and I don't have my car, that's pretty much impossible. What I do have, however, is a birthday coming up

Car is a 2002 WRX. Current mods:
STi TMIC
Edo Perfomance DP
SPT Catback
Kartboy short shifter
Kartboy shifter, outrigger and diff bushings

17x8 Enkei RCT4s with 245/45/17 Bridgestone RE01Rs
F+R Whiteline 24mm adjustable swaybars
Koni/Ground Control coilovers with Eibach springs
Whiteline adjustable camber plates
GroupN rear tophats

Any ideas on what my next mod(s) should be, within reason? I'm thinking used AP, Quick Fit harness, maybe Sparco Sprint.
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Old 10-16-2009, 11:29 PM   #2
gbwrx
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Take the TMIC off. It takes you out of STX. What spring rates are you running? Is alignment maxed out? Header and xpipe could be something to look into. Suspension bushings. EVO school.
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Old 10-17-2009, 05:41 AM   #3
Back Road Runner
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What is the car doing now that you don't like? Find the fix for that.

Ditto on making sure you're upgrading appropriate parts to keep you in whatever class you want to be in...unless you don't care and then do whatever you want and call yourself XP.

+1 for suspension bushings. It really locks down the car and makes everything direct and precise. This will include steering rack bushings and engine/tranny mounts.

Why not bring your car to college?

Also, if you want training but can't get real seat time, simulators can aid you quite a bit. You just need a decent PC and invest in a good racing wheel (Logitech G25/G27 or Fanatec 911 Turbo/GT3) that will give you force feedback full petal set including clutch, and shifter. There are a lot of good simulation racing games (Live For Speed, GTR/GTR2, rFactor, Forza Motorsports 1/2/3, Nascar series iRacing, Netcar, etc.) out there that will give you practical experience and keep the reflexes sharp. These aren't just kids games and a lot of professions actually makes use of a number of these sims to aid them when they are not in a real car. I'll say the key is to at least invest in a good wheel. It just makes for a better overall and realistic experience and forces you to go through a lot of the same actions you would in real life.
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:02 AM   #4
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http://www.solopro.com or http://www.evoschool.com

Get a gift certificate to either school that you can use next year to sharpen your driving skills. Either of these schools will get you on the fast path.

And as gbwrx said... STi top mount is not legal for STX.
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Old 10-17-2009, 11:56 AM   #5
mulva
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I don't see EM listed. A good STX protune would help. Car looks like it's good to go for STX after you revert back to the WRX TMIC. Tune, alignment, seat time. The harness is a good idea too. You really shouldn't have to spend too much to get this car competitive.

As asked above, what are the spring rates and how is your car currently handling?

Tom
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Old 10-17-2009, 12:02 PM   #6
mulva
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC View Post
http://www.solopro.com or http://www.evoschool.com

Get a gift certificate to either school that you can use next year to sharpen your driving skills. Either of these schools will get you on the fast path.

And as gbwrx said... STi top mount is not legal for STX.
I think KC meant to post this link:

http://www.soloprodrivingschool.com/home

Unless he's implying some weight reduction would be helpful
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:06 PM   #7
PitwrkzZ1
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I'm running -3.5 degrees camber and 350 lb/in springs in the front and 300 lb/in springs in the rear. I'm thinking of upping the rates, not sure to what yet. I'd have to do more research. Just read the rule, STi top mount will come off. Evo school is an awesome idea, any idea when their full '10 schedule will come out?

Another dumb question that I've always wondered about...is it possible to get an STX legal tune on a stock ECU?
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:55 PM   #8
mccanixx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitwrkzZ1 View Post
I'm running -3.5 degrees camber and 350 lb/in springs in the front and 300 lb/in springs in the rear. I'm thinking of upping the rates, not sure to what yet. I'd have to do more research.
100lb rear bias over the front 0 out rear camber (~0.5 - at least).

Quote:
Originally Posted by PitwrkzZ1 View Post
Another dumb question that I've always wondered about...is it possible to get an STX legal tune on a stock ECU?
Yep. Fuel/Timing are allowable adjustments. Coupled with good intake and exhaust, it makes a noticable difference.
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Old 10-17-2009, 05:39 PM   #9
PitwrkzZ1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccanixx View Post
100lb rear bias over the front 0 out rear camber (~0.5 - at least).
English? haha



Quote:
Yep. Fuel/Timing are allowable adjustments. Coupled with good intake and exhaust, it makes a noticable difference.
Ok cool. Time to look for tuners.
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Old 10-17-2009, 06:04 PM   #10
mulva
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitwrkzZ1 View Post
English? haha
With the stock WRX diffs, many people like to put stiffer springs in the rear to help with rotation, mccanixx is recommending 100lbs more.

Last edited by mulva; 10-17-2009 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:46 PM   #11
leecea
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With regard to upping spring rates, I thought Koni's maxed out around 300-350 lb/in without a revalve?

I don't see an uppipe listed. Certainly a good mod for a 2002 (assuming that is still legal in STX).

How far away from the top STX times are you?
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Old 10-17-2009, 08:13 PM   #12
that1dude
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Sorry off topic, but MULVA has to be one of the best user names I've seen! Seinfeld ftw.
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Old 10-17-2009, 10:37 PM   #13
mulva
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leecea View Post
With regard to upping spring rates, I thought Koni's maxed out around 300-350 lb/in without a revalve?
Good point. I was assuming that the OP has the GC complete CO kit with the Koni 8641-1198 SA struts which are good for 600 lb springs and not the inserts (8610's I think) which are valved more conservatively.

Pitwrkz, could you clarify?

Quote:
Originally Posted by that1dude View Post
Sorry off topic, but MULVA has to be one of the best user names I've seen! Seinfeld ftw.
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:49 PM   #14
PitwrkzZ1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulva View Post
With the stock WRX diffs, many people like to put stiffer springs in the rear to help with rotation, mccanixx is recommending 100lbs more.
Gotcha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by leecea View Post
With regard to upping spring rates, I thought Koni's maxed out around 300-350 lb/in without a revalve?

I don't see an uppipe listed. Certainly a good mod for a 2002 (assuming that is still legal in STX).

How far away from the top STX times are you?
I'm running the inserts, not the motorsport dampers. Is that really all they're good for?
UP is also a possibility. I'm not sure how far away from the top of STX I am. NYR doesn't have the results posted from this year and I never really checked...I was just happy with my N results haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mulva View Post
Good point. I was assuming that the OP has the GC complete CO kit with the Koni 8641-1198 SA struts which are good for 600 lb springs and not the inserts (8610's I think) which are valved more conservatively.

Pitwrkz, could you clarify?
They are the inserts.
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:14 PM   #15
BlkWRXWag
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245/45 tires are too tall for a WRX - get your hands on some 235/40 Dunlops Z1's.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:24 PM   #16
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I made this a while ago:



It's a quick and dirty representation of the low and high range of each of the dampers. I'll note stock is WRX and the AGX is the WRX spec ones. The RS spec ones will be lower.

I'll also note that the D-Spec strut tops out at supporting a 350 lb/in spring on the front end of a car weighing 1800 lbs., around what most of our Subaru front ends weigh. If you go stiffer then this, the front end will get a little bouncy. The rear end can support a bit higher. Lower weight means lower damper needs so the same damper rate goes farther in terms of spring rate. The limit will be the front end. I run 350 lb/in on my Forester running D-Spec struts. I have the front dampers full stiff, and I consider myself a hair low on damping. I've put a CF hood on that helped some, I'm looking to do a little more on the front end to lighten it up.

It also shows that the Koni strut does top out a bit lower meaning it probably doesn't support that high of spring rates. However, I've also heard that the adjust will pretty much run rebound to infinity(really, really stiff), but I kind of doubt that. The data suggest that the Koni really tops out at around 250 lb/in in terms of retaining abundant rebound to keep the chassis controlled. Once you step higher, you will gain no additional control to damp the rebound stroke. You'll start to get bounding over bumps and possibly continuous oscillations just driving down the road. What the Koni does gain is an absolutely awesome feel on softer springs because it has relatively high compression damping on a light spring. It's nice on soft springs, but since it's fixed, it doesn't retain that feel as you raise the spring rates. The relative compression damping drops off, and it'll feel a lot more like the other struts.

Tests were done via BigSkyWRX several years back and can be seen at www.ClubWRX.com
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:55 PM   #17
PKer
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Ditch the front bar, go with stock or none. Stiffer springs for the back. Align toe out in the rear.

Or...Buy a spare trans and rear diff. With any luck you'll need the diff before the trans.
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