Help with subframe lockdown bolt install

kmook · 10-17-2009, 06:13 PM

Hello,
I'm in the middle of this install and of course having issues getting the bolts started. I've read in other threads about adjusting the subframe after loosening the 4 bolts with a crowbar or such, but my question is where to you put/position the crowbar to adjust the subframe?

Thanks!

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skimobile · 10-17-2009, 06:27 PM

You just losen the 2 bolts on either side of the subframe, spray PB Blaster into the hole that the lockdown bolts will thread into, the hole alignment shouldn't be too far off.
Clean the threads with a Q-tip soaked with more PB BLaster and try installing the lockdown bolts 1st without the unethane/poly sleeves on them, you may have to work them in an out several times while cleaning the threads.
After years of nothing in those holes there's probably lots of rust, road grime, etc up in there.
More info here....
http://www.scoobymods.com/kartboy_su...lts-t9236.html

kmook · 10-17-2009, 08:28 PM

I'm going to try the q-tip and a small wire brush tomorrow to get the threads clean in the bolt holes.

Unfortunately I'm useing the whiteline kit not the kartboy so the sleeves dont come off.

The holes look pretty much lined up but i just didnt see where to try adjusting the subframe with a bar...

jamal · 10-17-2009, 08:37 PM

I put a wire pipe cleaning brush in a drill. That got the threads super clean. And you want to use a crapload of anti-seize.

I can't tell you exactly where to pry. I'm pretty sure it took a bunch of prying and hammering in different spots.

drifterx · 10-17-2009, 08:46 PM

i never prybar'd anything on any of my installs (4 sets installed so far). ive always done it the scoobymod way and dropped the 4 bolts about a half inch down or so and then put the whitlines in place and torqued to spec then did the factory bolts.

kmook · 10-17-2009, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drifterx

i never prybar'd anything on any of my installs (4 sets installed so far). ive always done it the scoobymod way and dropped the 4 bolts about a half inch down or so and then put the whitlines in place and torqued to spec then did the factory bolts.

I'm curious if you dont need to adjust the subframe what is the purpose of loosening the 4 factory bolts?

drifterx · 10-17-2009, 08:53 PM

you know in all honesty i dont know why. maybe to make sure that they sit correctly, since the factory ones dont lock it (the rear diff) down 100% there is a little bit of wiggle room for the rear subframe to shift one way or another possibly (i dunno so please correct me if im wrong).

wrxracer519 · 10-18-2009, 07:50 AM

that is correct. I have spent about 2 hrs cleaning the holes in my 02 to get them in. The amount of crap that was up there was nasty, and wear some goggles or something to crap doesn't fall in your eyes.

boost junkie · 10-18-2009, 12:21 PM

The threads on mine were nasty, no amount of cleaning would make the bolts thread in smoothly. I ended up chasing the threads with a tap, then cleaning them and using anti-sieze and the bolts went right in.

kmook · 10-18-2009, 12:39 PM

I got them in this morning. The pass side just needed a lot of cleaning as said. I had to use a tap/rethreader to get the drivers side in though.

Thanks for the help!

romanlynch · 10-18-2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmook

I'm curious if you dont need to adjust the subframe what is the purpose of loosening the 4 factory bolts?

not everyones subframe perfectly lines up. when i installed mine i had to shift the subframe 1/4" or so to line it up.

todeswalzer · 10-19-2009, 12:03 AM

i have the whiteline ones.

took about 5 minutes to line each one up but after that it was a breeze, i never cleaned the threads or anything and my car has 58k on the clock in new england

i torqued to spec and snapped one of em.....while its still in there and has held in place for about 6 months now i dont know what to do when/if i ever want to take them out

so becareful

10-17-2009, 06:13 PM	#1
kmook Scooby Specialist Member#: 146168 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: South Florida Vehicle: 2002 Black WRX	Help with subframe lockdown bolt install Hello, I'm in the middle of this install and of course having issues getting the bolts started. I've read in other threads about adjusting the subframe after loosening the 4 bolts with a crowbar or such, but my question is where to you put/position the crowbar to adjust the subframe? Thanks! * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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10-17-2009, 06:27 PM	#2
skimobile Scooby Specialist Member#: 92114 Join Date: Jul 2005 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Westerly, RI Vehicle: 03 WRX Bugeye 2.61L Hybrid Track Toy	You just losen the 2 bolts on either side of the subframe, spray PB Blaster into the hole that the lockdown bolts will thread into, the hole alignment shouldn't be too far off. Clean the threads with a Q-tip soaked with more PB BLaster and try installing the lockdown bolts 1st without the unethane/poly sleeves on them, you may have to work them in an out several times while cleaning the threads. After years of nothing in those holes there's probably lots of rust, road grime, etc up in there. More info here.... http://www.scoobymods.com/kartboy_su...lts-t9236.html

10-17-2009, 08:28 PM	#3
kmook Scooby Specialist Member#: 146168 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: South Florida Vehicle: 2002 Black WRX	I'm going to try the q-tip and a small wire brush tomorrow to get the threads clean in the bolt holes. Unfortunately I'm useing the whiteline kit not the kartboy so the sleeves dont come off. The holes look pretty much lined up but i just didnt see where to try adjusting the subframe with a bar...

10-17-2009, 08:37 PM	#4
jamal Scooby Guru Member#: 71875 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Montana Vehicle: 98 2.5GT my wheels fit	I put a wire pipe cleaning brush in a drill. That got the threads super clean. And you want to use a crapload of anti-seize. I can't tell you exactly where to pry. I'm pretty sure it took a bunch of prying and hammering in different spots.

10-17-2009, 08:46 PM	#5
drifterx Scooby Specialist Member#: 25128 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Yakima, Washington Vehicle: 1983 911sc Matte Mexico Blue :)	i never prybar'd anything on any of my installs (4 sets installed so far). ive always done it the scoobymod way and dropped the 4 bolts about a half inch down or so and then put the whitlines in place and torqued to spec then did the factory bolts.

10-17-2009, 08:53 PM	#7
drifterx Scooby Specialist Member#: 25128 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Yakima, Washington Vehicle: 1983 911sc Matte Mexico Blue :)	you know in all honesty i dont know why. maybe to make sure that they sit correctly, since the factory ones dont lock it (the rear diff) down 100% there is a little bit of wiggle room for the rear subframe to shift one way or another possibly (i dunno so please correct me if im wrong).

10-18-2009, 07:50 AM	#8
wrxracer519 Scooby Specialist Member#: 149890 Join Date: May 2007 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: OG Vehicle: 02 WRX 11 WRX PSM	that is correct. I have spent about 2 hrs cleaning the holes in my 02 to get them in. The amount of crap that was up there was nasty, and wear some goggles or something to crap doesn't fall in your eyes.

10-18-2009, 12:21 PM	#9
boost junkie Top Scoob 009 Member#: 68273 Join Date: Aug 2004 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Silver Spring, MD Vehicle: 2012 WRX GD Race Car in progress	The threads on mine were nasty, no amount of cleaning would make the bolts thread in smoothly. I ended up chasing the threads with a tap, then cleaning them and using anti-sieze and the bolts went right in.

10-18-2009, 12:39 PM	#10
kmook Scooby Specialist Member#: 146168 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: South Florida Vehicle: 2002 Black WRX	I got them in this morning. The pass side just needed a lot of cleaning as said. I had to use a tap/rethreader to get the drivers side in though. Thanks for the help!

10-19-2009, 12:03 AM	#12
todeswalzer NASIOC Supporter Member#: 191495 Join Date: Oct 2008 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Lowell MA Vehicle: '05 WRB GTX3071R JDM V8 EJ207 USDM 6MT	i have the whiteline ones. took about 5 minutes to line each one up but after that it was a breeze, i never cleaned the threads or anything and my car has 58k on the clock in new england i torqued to spec and snapped one of em.....while its still in there and has held in place for about 6 months now i dont know what to do when/if i ever want to take them out so becareful