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Old 10-18-2009, 09:15 PM   #1
turbo01gc8
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Question 2.2L sohc help

was reading a thread on the HIGH COMPRESSION FRANKENSTEIN and had some ?'s. i got an 01 impreza w/ 2.2 sohc. i was wondering how i could find out what my engine specs are b/c i just installed a turbo kit (about 5-8 psi depending on the WG adjustment). don't know if my stock block and heads can handle it (163K). was thinking about some 2.5 sohc heads for better flow and the dual port exhaust to install a better flowing header and possibly lowering the compression ratio w/ some forged pistons but they are pretty expensive. like $140 each from weisco. and also wondering about rrfpr's. i have a fpr that came with my kit but not sure if it's working properly b/c when i get on it, it seems to have some dead spots then is fine. i cannot control timing with the EM but have 2 extra injectors to add more fuel across the rpm band and boost range. also my boost guage fluctuates at times when i'm cruising at part throttle. any ideas on why this might happen? any info is helpful. thanks
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Last edited by turbo01gc8; 10-18-2009 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 10-21-2009, 04:18 PM   #2
benham84GL
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Default 2.2L options

I'm put a 1999 2.2L N/A in my 1985 GL wagon. Now that I've got it running properly I was looking into turbo options and was told that:

1) The open-deck block is only good for ~5-6 psi

2) The non-forged internals are good for ~300 hp.
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Old 10-21-2009, 04:19 PM   #3
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I do know that the stock 2.2L phase 2 compression is 10:1.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:58 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by benham84GL View Post
I'm put a 1999 2.2L N/A in my 1985 GL wagon. Now that I've got it running properly I was looking into turbo options and was told that:

1) The open-deck block is only good for ~5-6 psi

2) The non-forged internals are good for ~300 hp.
soo, where did you "hear" that from?
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:27 PM   #5
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The open-deck block is only good for ~5-6 psi
That is a load of crap. I myself have hit and held 15 psi on my ej22e open deck block for over 4 months with no knock or anything. Sure closed deck would be better for high boost but is not nessecary. Hell a na 2.5(ej251, ej25D) open deck can handle 5-6psi. The 1.8 and 2.2 decks are a budget boost block that can handle some boost.
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:53 PM   #6
mikebdubsuby
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Aren't the N/A 2.2's and turbo 2.2's the same bottom end?
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:42 PM   #7
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Aren't the N/A 2.2's and turbo 2.2's the same bottom end?
Nope the ej22t's bottom end is a closed deck application and is lower compression, whereas the ej22e has a higher compression ratio and open deck. But overall 2.2's are great for boost.
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:56 PM   #8
turbo01gc8
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anyone have info and results for different heads on these things? better flow? parts needed to make swap? how about pistons? do i get just pistons or are rods really necessary too?

does anyone know why it feels like i have a dead spot on take off then is fine? my boost guage fluctuation???
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:50 AM   #9
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and possibly lowering the compression ratio w/ some forged pistons but they are pretty expensive. like $140 each from weisco
Have you considered lowering the CR by installing thicker head gaskets?
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:18 AM   #10
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how much would that really lower the comp ratio? and is it worth it? time and $$$?
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:28 AM   #11
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Your engine can easily handle 10 psi of boost. I was running a mere 7.5 psi of boost for over a year tuned to 12:1 AFR's and that engine ran great. I'm currently installing it into a 2.5RS where I'll confidently run 10 psi of boost.

Good engine management is the key.
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Old 11-03-2009, 04:43 PM   #12
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it's completely stock with 164k on it. i can hit 4-5psi with no ignition tuning but i am probably running rich as hell cause i got 2 extra injectors i can control. i'm not sure how to program them either across the rpm and boost ranges. i'm looking into the pp6 EM from rallitek and new pistons when i save enough $$$
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Old 11-05-2009, 03:18 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by subasurf View Post
Have you considered lowering the CR by installing thicker head gaskets?
FWIW, the installation of thicker-than-stock head gaskets will result in the cam timing being slightly different between the 2 banks of cylinders. I really don't know if a couple degrees of difference is that big of a deal, but it seems worth mentioning.

_Jeff
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Old 11-05-2009, 03:46 PM   #14
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Put some DOHC Ej25 heads on there from an 1996-1999 Legacy, Outback or Forester. They will drop your CR to 8.6:1 with stock HG's. They flow about 20% more than your stock heads. They are also already drilled and ready to be tapped for oil and coolant.
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:40 PM   #15
turbo01gc8
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Put some DOHC Ej25 heads on there from an 1996-1999 Legacy, Outback or Forester. They will drop your CR to 8.6:1 with stock HG's. They flow about 20% more than your stock heads. They are also already drilled and ready to be tapped for oil and coolant.
wow they drop the CR that much? so if i pick up these heads, what kind of ecu do i need? what else is needed for the swap besides a timing belt, stock HG, and ARP studs? trying for more hp but kinda on a budget. are the 2.5 SOHC heads any better so i don't need an ecu?

what do you mean by drilled and ready to be tapped for oil and coolant? i have my coolant for the turbo tapped into the heater core hoses and my oil tapped from the factory sending unit off the block.
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:59 PM   #16
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How is 8.6:1 too low? That's higher than a stock WRX.

You'll want some sort of piggyback, but your stock ECU will run them. Don't waste your money on ARPs. Unless you are making 30psi you don't need them. Just reuse stock bolts.

If you've already got a coolant solution don't worry about it. But if you wanted to, you could copy the factory set up with the fitting coming right out of the head.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Matt Monson View Post
How is 8.6:1 too low? That's higher than a stock WRX.

You'll want some sort of piggyback, but your stock ECU will run them. Don't waste your money on ARPs. Unless you are making 30psi you don't need them. Just reuse stock bolts.

If you've already got a coolant solution don't worry about it. But if you wanted to, you could copy the factory set up with the fitting coming right out of the head.

i didn't mean that CR was bad it's kinda what i was aiming for so i can safely run a little more boost. by running some sort of piggyback do you mean engine management? so not to ask the same question again, but i got SOHC heads and you are saying the DOHC will bolt right up? all sensors, intake manifold, etc?
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