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Old 10-23-2009, 08:19 AM   #1
therieldeal
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Default WTB: EJ25 (sohc, 2000 legacy) oil pan

I went to change the oil on my "new to me" 2000 legacy GT last night, and discovered that there are big rust bubbles on the oil pan, and one is seeping oil! I hosed it down with brake cleaner and smeared RTV over the rust spots.... seems to be keeping it contained temporarily. Oddly it is about halfway up the side of the oil pan, not on the bottom.

I see no point in changing the oil just yet, I might as well do the oil pan at the same time. So... anyone have one kicking around? I'm in northeastern CT but i'll be heading up 290 to 495 to 95 to NH tomorrow.

I also found some coolant seeping out of the drivers side head gasket, rear bottom corner . I'm stopping by the dealer today to get some of that "coolant conditioner". It’s a minor leak/seepage, so hopefully it works...
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:37 PM   #2
MYfirst00
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That pan is not an easy thing to replace. Almost have to take out the engine. I had the exact same issue on the 2000 Legacy I just sold earlier this year. I fixed is for less than $10.

What I did was sand down the bubbly area with a bristle wheel in a drill; basically clean it up really good and get the paint off. I saw where two or three holes had started. Then I mixed up J.B. Weld and applied it to the area I cleaned. I've heard of it lasting more than 2 years. With the size of the holes it's covering, and if you have the engine splash guard, it will probably last even longer.

As far as the coolant goes; the external leak isn't too much to worry about. I fell for the headgasket scare from a dealer when he pointed that out to me. The additive is a good step and all I would do for now. Don't let it get to you.

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Old 10-23-2009, 12:38 PM   #3
DAV3_02
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the coolant conditioner wont help you now. and im pretty sure i have a couple of those oil pans kikin around. you need some headgaskets and you need an oil pan dude sorry. i can help you out if you want, with the headgaskets. i have done probably 20 or so sets of them. pm me if your interested. im an ASE ceritified tech who has worked at a subaru dealer in the past...
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:08 PM   #4
therieldeal
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i'm gonna try the conditioner anyway, its like $2 and it can't hurt at this point... if i get lucky, i get lucky. the seepage is pretty minor, there was a ~3-4" diameter wet spot in the driveway this morning. not even a puddle, just damp.

let me know what you want for one of the oil pans, if you have one. i found a thread on another forum where some guys were pulling STi oil pans to swap oil pickup tubes (similar motor, right?) with a 1/4" drive swivel and extension etc. i'm also not afraid of hooking up my hoist and unbolting the motor mounts if i have to.

as far as the headgasket... if it is truely shot, i will probably try to find a low mileage used motor from a post-TSB car to swap in there. this car has over 200k but with a supposed engine rebuild about 70k ago. no reciepts, so its a little questionable... it does run fine though. i built a ford escort that run's 11's, so i'm not too scared of a stock-for-stock engine swap, or a headgasket job . (if something blows up in mid january though, i may be in touch! no heated garage...)
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:16 PM   #5
MYfirst00
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I believe the turbo oil pans are shaped to account for turbo cross-members. if you're actually getting a puddle from the coolant leak, then I would probably change it. you don't know how much you're losing when driving and the system is constantly under pressure.
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:37 PM   #6
therieldeal
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http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...tube-pics.html

to me it looks similar, but i need to get back under the car to check. i just got it a couple weeks ago so i'm not too familiar yet.

i'm not losing much, the rad is still full and the overflow is only down a little. its not even making a puddle, just a small damp spot on the pavement. i agree that changing it would be BEST, but if a $2 bottle of dealer-approved band aid fix will do it.... i'm fine with that lol. plus i am a little low on funds after buying the car and finishing up the toyota camry transmission swap into the escort :P
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:14 PM   #7
Jonathan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therieldeal View Post
I'm gonna try the conditioner anyway, its like $2 and it can't hurt at this point... If i get lucky, i get lucky. The seepage is pretty minor, there was a ~3-4" diameter wet spot in the driveway this morning. Not even a puddle, just damp.

As far as the headgasket... if it is truely shot, I will probably try to find a low mileage used motor from a post-TSB car to swap in there. This car has over 200k but with a supposed engine rebuild about 70k ago. No reciepts, so its a little questionable... It does run fine though. I built a Ford Escort that run's 11's, so I'm not too scared of a stock-for-stock engine swap, or a head gasket job . (if something blows up in mid January though, I may be in touch! No heated garage...)
Unlike the Phase I 1996-99 DOHC motors where cylinder head gasket failures resulted in serious over-heating issues and ultimately warped heads and in some cased cracked blocks, the 1999-2003 Phase II motors only suffered from fairly mild weaping and seapage issues like you describe. These issues are very common... something like 50% of all pre-2003 Phase II EJ25 SOHC motors have at least on head gasket that has had this issue.

Yeah, the SoA "coolant conditioner" works wonders and using it let Subaru avoid paying for a lot of head gasket replacements under warranty.. the down side is that this radiator "stop leak" in a can treatment is thought to ultimately result in clogged up heater cores and in some cases clogged radiator core passageways.

Personally I would try just living with it for a few months. Just remember to check and top-off your coolant as needed.

The new improved head gasket design is thought to resolve this issue properly, although changing the head gaskets with out removing the motor is a bit tricky as there is very little clearance. Perhaps when you get a new oil pan, you might want to pull the motor and do the gaskets as well ?
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Old 10-23-2009, 09:25 PM   #8
DAV3_02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
Unlike the Phase I 1996-99 DOHC motors where cylinder head gasket failures resulted in serious over-heating issues and ultimately warped heads and in some cased cracked blocks, the 1999-2003 Phase II motors only suffered from fairly mild weaping and seapage issues like you describe. These issues are very common... something like 50% of all pre-2003 Phase II EJ25 SOHC motors have at least on head gasket that has had this issue.

Yeah, the SoA "coolant conditioner" works wonders and using it let Subaru avoid paying for a lot of head gasket replacements under warranty.. the down side is that this radiator "stop leak" in a can treatment is thought to ultimately result in clogged up heater cores and in some cases clogged radiator core passageways.

Personally I would try just living with it for a few months. Just remember to check and top-off your coolant as needed.

The new improved head gasket design is thought to resolve this issue properly, although changing the head gaskets with out removing the motor is a bit tricky as there is very little clearance. Perhaps when you get a new oil pan, you might want to pull the motor and do the gaskets as well ?
+1 AND I CAN VOUCH FOR THIS! DO THE GASKETS AND OIL PAN AT THE SAME TIME!
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Old 10-23-2009, 09:41 PM   #9
therieldeal
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well i put the "conditioner" in after work, and drove the car about 50 miles tonight. as far as i can tell, the leak has stopped (at least for now) *fingers crossed*. i dont have the option of just living with the leak, my landlord isnt a big fan of spots in the driveway. if the stop leak gets me through at least till spring i'll be happy, in the meantime i'll keep my eyes out for an affordable replacement motor. i've been thinking a WRX swap might be pretty cool... the wiring sounds like a nightmare though.

DAV3_02, if you do in fact have a spare oil pan, please let me know how much you want for it
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Old 10-24-2009, 12:57 PM   #10
Aegean93L
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You can find new oil pans on ebay for about $40 with free shipping. It won't be OEM, but the quality is good. I used one when I rebuilt my 99 RS motor.
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:32 PM   #11
therieldeal
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not bad the cheapest i see at the moment is $48 with free shipping

still, if anyone local has a pan kicking around thats not rusty... i'd prefer to just grab a cheap used one. according to ebay the interchange list is:

# 2006 SUBARU BAJA: TURBO H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ255 N/A
# 2005 SUBARU IMPREZA: WRX H4 - 2.0L (1994 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ205 N/A
# 2005 SUBARU FORESTER: XT H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ255 N/A
# 2005 SUBARU BAJA: TURBO H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ255 N/A
# 2004 SUBARU IMPREZA: WRX H4 - 2.0L (1994 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ205 N/A
# 2004 SUBARU FORESTER: XT H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ255 N/A
# 2004 SUBARU BAJA H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ255 N/A
# 2003 SUBARU IMPREZA: WRX H4 - 2.0L (1994 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ205 N/A
# 2002 SUBARU IMPREZA: WRX H4 - 2.0L (1994 CC): GAS: FI: T: EJ205 N/A
# 1999 SUBARU LEGACY H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: EJ25D N/A
# 1999 SUBARU LEGACY: OUTBACK H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: EJ25D N/A
# 1998 SUBARU LEGACY: LIMITED H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1998 SUBARU LEGACY: GT H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1998 SUBARU IMPREZA: RS H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: EJ25D N/A
# 1998 SUBARU FORESTER H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: EJ25D N/A
# 1998 SUBARU FORESTER: S H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: EJ25D N/A
# 1998 SUBARU FORESTER: L H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: EJ25D N/A
# 1997 SUBARU LEGACY: LSI H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1997 SUBARU LEGACY: LIMITED H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1997 SUBARU LEGACY: GT H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1996 SUBARU LEGACY: LSI H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1996 SUBARU LEGACY: GT H4 - 2.5L (2458 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1993 SUBARU LEGACY: SPORT H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: T: 6 N/A
# 1993 SUBARU LEGACY: LSI H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1993 SUBARU LEGACY: LS SP H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1993 SUBARU LEGACY: L H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1992 SUBARU LEGACY: SPORT H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: T: 6 N/A
# 1992 SUBARU LEGACY: LSI H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1992 SUBARU LEGACY: LS SP H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1992 SUBARU LEGACY: L H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1991 SUBARU LEGACY: SPORT H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: T: 6 N/A
# 1991 SUBARU LEGACY: LSI H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1991 SUBARU LEGACY: LS SP H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1991 SUBARU LEGACY: L H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1990 SUBARU LEGACY H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1990 SUBARU LEGACY: LS H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
# 1990 SUBARU LEGACY: L H4 - 2.2L (2212 CC): GAS: FI: N: 6 N/A
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