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Old 10-24-2009, 04:01 AM   #1
Jagular1785
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Default Finally decided to make a turbo wagon... advice?

I have done a good deal of searching and looking around and I have decided that I am going to save up and turbo my 97 obs. I have the 2.2l one porter (can't remember the phases...) and I am not sure on what specs and things to know about doing this.

What I have on the car:

-MS3 single port UEL header
-Custom Catback, with stock cats


What I want out of the car afterwards:

-I want a fast spooling turbo that will improve primarily the low-mid range if possible.
-HP 225-275; if i could get 300 it would be amazing and
-Maintain daily driver car
-Tunability (I'm sure this is obvious, but I want something that gives me at minimum: ignition timing control, boost, fuel, a/f (with wideband sensor), but obviously more feedback is better.

What do I need to get?

-Engine Management? I have a relatively old ECU, I am unsure of the compatibilities of it with piggybacks. Would it be better to go with a aftermarket ECU, and if so, what is a good cost effective ecu to go with?
-Turbo? I am a noob as far as forced induction is concerned. I have a 2.2 liter motor, and I wouldn't want a huge amount of boost, I think 7-9 psi would be about as far as I would want to push it. I don't want this to be the fastest car on the streets, just something that will be a surprise. What turbo would I look for that would spool quickly and not become useless on the top end.
-I plan on using the scoop on the hood for an intercooler, I assume this will be somewhat easy to come by. Or should I be looking for a kit of some sort? Like I said, I am a noob in this field.
-For the up and down pipe, is it possible to use my header and catback (put a different cat section in), and make custom up and down pipes or is that going to make life more difficult as opposed to getting a new header?

What else am I missing? Any ballparks on cost? This isn't going to be done for a while I fear, but I want to plan ahead and see what all will need to be done.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:15 AM   #2
Kevin Thomas
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Default

1) Your car is old! Get a good tune up and get those fuel injectors professionally cleaned,

2) Get an EGT gauge and look at what your EGT is stock. DO THIS RELIGIOUSLY at all rpms,

3) Get a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge and keep your air/fuel ratios around 11.5:1 to 12.0:1,

4) Get a simple fuel controller such as an SAFC Neo or something. Run on premium fuel,

5) Do not run over 5psi....6psi at the most.

6) Free up your exhaust with at least a 2.5" exhaust going back.


That's it! Enjoy!

Last edited by Kevin Thomas; 10-25-2009 at 02:25 AM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:44 AM   #3
Jagular1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Thomas View Post
1) Your car is old! Get a good tune up and get those fuel injectors professionally cleaned,

2) Get an EGT gauge and look at what your EGT is stock. DO THIS RELIGIOUSLY at all rpms,

3) Get a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge and keep your air/fuel ratios around 11.5:1 to 12.0:1,

4) Get a simple fuel controller such as an SAFC Neo or something. Run on premium fuel,

5) Do not run over 5psi....6psi at the most.

6) Free up your exhaust with at least a 2.5" exhaust going back.


That's it! Enjoy!

Alright. I switched to premium about a month ago, and I must say it makes the car run with a great deal more confidence. I will make sure to continue that. And the custom cat back I have is a 2.5" with straight through magnaflow resonator and muffler. I plan on eliminating the stock cat section when putting the up and down pipe in so that should take care of the restriction I hope. And a wideband is definitely on my list as well, I think its a must.

Is EGT an exhaust gas temp sensor? I haven't gotten clarification on that acronym. (I know, I know; I have a bit to learn)

For the injectors, I was under the impression that I would need to step these up, would this be a good idea?

The fuel controller; I did not see an ignition adjustment, which is a function that I think would be necessary seeing as my compression is 9.7:1. Is there another unit that I can use to get that function? Or perhaps just something I can adjust the ignition with separately?

Oh, and do you personally think that the numbers I am looking for are too optimistic?

Thanks for the help and understanding,

Chris

Last edited by Jagular1785; 10-25-2009 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:49 AM   #4
reddevil
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PerfectPower6 or Emanage for fuel (maf adjustment) and timing retardation....
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:31 PM   #5
Kevin Thomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
Is EGT an exhaust gas temp sensor? I haven't gotten clarification on that acronym. (I know, I know; I have a bit to learn)
Yes!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
For the injectors, I was under the impression that I would need to step these up, would this be a good idea?
Yes! Stock worked for me for years but I know better. I would say up to 5psi, just use stock injectors. Any more, you should upgrade but I can not confirm to what.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
The fuel controller; I did not see an ignition adjustment, which is a function that I think would be necessary seeing as my compression is 9.7:1. Is there another unit that I can use to get that function? Or perhaps just something I can adjust the ignition with separately?

I have never used ignition timing adjustments. Never! It seems to be recommended by a vast majority of people though so I do not verbally go against the 'grain of thought' anymore.

Reddevil is much more in tune with the later technology of what's available than what I am. PerfectPower may be the ticket. I still use a SAFC (SAFC Neo now) on my Outback vs and SAFC before vs a Simple Hyper fuel SAFC before that. I still have the same '97 Outback that I purchased back in 11/96 and am the only owner of it. It's still has turbo and nitrous, stock injectors, etc. I just keep it in the garage and start it up every now and then while the other cars get beat on.

A little history: Car was turbo'd in mid '1999 if I remember correctly, using money from bracket racing. Had no problems with any tuning. Simply kept the Exhaust Gas Temperature in check on 93 octane. Fuel adjustments were made on 93 octane. Had a Minnam Stage I turbokit on it with a 50/60 shot of nitrous. Ran from 59k to 110k miles with no issues and many, many bottles of nitrous. *I do not recommend doing this regardless* Put an intercooler on it sometime in between, which upgraded it to a Minnam Stage II. Sold it to a young guy in PA due to many people saying 'Kevin, you are on bought time, it's going to blow'. Remove it right off my car at the a dyno shop I used to use (Xotic Motorsports) and had the kit installed on his car so he knew it'd work. He had a 5spd and tore his tranny up later that week. Poor kid!!!

Felt bad for a couple of years N/A. Bought a Ludespeed Stage II kit and installed it. I was moving into a house at same time and was dyno testing ECU's (Stock ECU, Legacy ECU that I always used and another 2.2ltr ECU) **http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...light=dyno+ecu*. I mistakenly thought I had my stock ECU back in the car but I had installed a DOHC ecu and blew my engine about a mile down the road after the kit was installed. The DOHC I didn't dyno test. It was just laying aroudn near the other ECUS but it always ran like crap on it (Don't try this at all). Put another used engine in it, and put the Ludespeed Kit back in it. This is where it sits now.

All this to say is that I never had a problem running 5psi of turbo boost for years. Keep an eye on your EGT and your air/fuel ratio. Especially our EGT! As long as things stay cool, you should be cool. I'm old school though and the newer generation have a ton of info and insight I have not touched upon. Enjoy!

Last edited by Kevin Thomas; 10-25-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:53 PM   #6
Jagular1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Thomas View Post
Sold it to a young guy in PA due to many people saying 'Kevin, you are on bought time, it's going to blow'. Remove it right off my car at the a dyno shop I used to use (Xotic Motorsports) and had the kit installed on his car so he knew it'd work. He had a 5spd and tore his tranny up later that week. Poor kid!!!
Wow, that's not good! I have a 5 speed too, however I'd like to say that I don't beat on it too much, although I do need to rebuild it when I do the clutch, the synchros are not doing their job very well anymore (car has 192,000 miles on it).

With that in mind, I will be doing a compression test and debating on tearing down the motor before I do this conversion. The motor seems to run well and I haven't noticed much issues other than the mileage is 23-25 mpg on the highway with reserved driving. I have a feeling that I will need to put new rings in someday soon. Should I tear the motor down and put new seals, ect. in to be safe?

And thanks for your insight on this application, I have read on the rs25 forum that this open deck block would be unsuitable for boosting and that it would be destroyed in a few thousand miles. However it seems to me that they were wanting more horsepower and more pressure than the platform in general could handle (some were talking 15 psi or greater). Obviously I don't need that kind of power and don't have the proper car to do this. But you cleared my doubts as to the longterm reliability of moderate boosting for my application when done properly, so thank you. Do you know around what horsepower you were getting with no nitrous and the turbo kit? What kind of turbo would you recommend? I fear a kit will not work for me, as I will be using the UEL header I bought(even though it ends up in the stock location for NA, I'm sure this won't work for the kits).

Chris

Last edited by Jagular1785; 10-26-2009 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:47 AM   #7
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Just some advice in regards to the header. I am assuming you are planning on using a Borla or similar style header with your turbo build.....don't. I am in the process of swapping back to stock right now because you will lose too much velocity and heat using an aftermarket header. If you insist on using it at least heat wrap it or have it ceramic coated to help.
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:36 AM   #8
Jagular1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIN CODE 6 View Post
Just some advice in regards to the header. I am assuming you are planning on using a Borla or similar style header with your turbo build.....don't. I am in the process of swapping back to stock right now because you will lose too much velocity and heat using an aftermarket header. If you insist on using it at least heat wrap it or have it ceramic coated to help.
Its similar to a borla set up, but single ported. I can post a picture if its important. I wouldn't think that it would make a huge difference as little surface area as the header has. That being said, I will consider it just the same. The paint that is on it was torched off in a matter of a week, and my quick sand-and-spray high temp paint is now starting to peel a bit. At minimum I'm going to have to do it again properly, but I might go for the ceramic for this as well as longevity. I do want to use it though. The rumble I have now is something I want to keep. The factory header is also a restrictive pea-shooter by comparison. Perhaps thats a plus for this application. However, I think I can sacrifice a little performance for a much better sound just the same.

This sounds like something that can be decided after the big conversion too, so I'll make sure to keep it on the table. Thanks for the tip!

Chris
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:47 AM   #9
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I think Kevin Thoms has given you good advice although tuning Subaru ECUs with SAFCs does prove tricky from what I have been able to learn. You can only tune them in open loop from what I understand, in closed loop the ECU will learn around the AFC. I run my hybrid NA-T Legacy with an EJ22T OBD1 ECU. That doesn't make it very tuneable, but it does allow me to run higher boost levels because my ECU knows what boost is.

Here's my motor build:
-EJ25 (NA) block halves
-EJ22T crank & rods
-EJ25 (NA) flat top pistons
-EJ20G intake manifold
-440cc injectors
-JDM VF8 turbo
-EJ22T ECU & wiring harness merge
-EJ25 DOHC heads (M.Y. 1996 w/ hydraulic lift adjusters)
-catless 3" bellmouth downpipe
-3" SPT exhaust for WRX (modified to fit Legacy)
-EJ22T fuel pump
-2002 WRX top mount intercooler w/ custom Y-pipe
-short ram intake w/ cone filter and custom aluminum heatshield
-TurboXS bypass valve
-2000 2.5RS radiator cap (higher pressure than stock Outback)
-Hallman Pro MBC set to 11lbs
comes in around 2.4 liters with around 8:1 compression ratio
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:40 AM   #10
Jagular1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impreza_GC8 View Post
I think Kevin Thoms has given you good advice although tuning Subaru ECUs with SAFCs does prove tricky from what I have been able to learn. You can only tune them in open loop from what I understand, in closed loop the ECU will learn around the AFC. I run my hybrid NA-T Legacy with an EJ22T OBD1 ECU. That doesn't make it very tuneable, but it does allow me to run higher boost levels because my ECU knows what boost is.
So would I be better off with the one of the other types of piggyback or should I be looking at standalones? I really would rather a piggyback now that I have a better idea as to what I will be needing.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
So would I be better off with the one of the other types of piggyback or should I be looking at standalones? I really would rather a piggyback now that I have a better idea as to what I will be needing.
A piggyback will definitely suit your needs better. You primarily need to be able to tune fuel and timing. I'm using a PP6 on my 5 psi supercharger setup and it works great. I have been able to get a rough tune of 11.5 AFR on my own. I also pulled some timing to be safe.

I would also look into a set of colder spark plugs. Lots of the RS-T guys seem to recommend one-step colder plugs with the stock gap. This is what I'm using and they pull hard and smooth all the way up to the redline.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:52 PM   #12
Jagular1785
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Ok, will definitely keep the PP6 in mind. Did you have the car tuned, or did you do it yourself? I would like to be able to do it myself, but I have not tuned electronically before (I've done carburetors before). Plugs, I'll definitely look into, know what the stocks are rated at and/or a good set to go for?

Also, I need advice on the clutch, my current one is gone and I'm replacing it in december with an exedy oem replacement or something that is equivalent. But when I finally get this done, I will definitely need a better clutch, but I have not found anything for my application past exedy's stage 1 (which is rated at 196ft/lbs). Does any of the 2.5l clutches fit my flywheel and splines that I can use? I probably want something that holds minimum 250 ft/lbs.

Last edited by Jagular1785; 11-09-2009 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:45 AM   #13
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Found a clutch that will be plenty for this. I just had to look a little harder I guess. Spec stage 1, good for 302 ft/lbs.
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Old 11-21-2009, 11:04 AM   #14
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Default My build is similar to what you want to do...

Maybe I can help a little here. First off, I have been turbocharging Honda's since I was sixteen. I do all my own work, including tuning. Ah, except welding..

I just finished turboing my 1998 Impreza L wagon. 164,000 km on the chassis and engine. It has the stock 2.2, with new front main seal, timing belt, spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, and synthetic 5w30 oil. The car still has the original clutch. I have had this car for the last 1000 km. I did all this maintenance first...

I am using the stock ecu, with a greddy emanage blue spliced into the harness. I am using the anti stall, ignition, and additional injection maps. For fuelling, I am using red top injectors from a 1998 Legacy 2.5, and a walbro 255 LPH high pressure pump.

Tuning: Emanage datalogging, plus an AEM wideband controller/gauge. The sensor is mounted in place of the factory front narrow band o2. I have wired the wideband o2 into the ecu harness, at the front o2 input. I have wired the stock front o2 heater circuit positive wire to the rear o2 heater circuit, so I dont get any codes, and dont have a 3rd o2 sensor dangling under the car. Using the 6th position on the rear of the aem uego, It simulates the stock narrowband o2 output, so the ecu can run normally in closed loop. And of course, a boost gauge. Oh, I am using a valve from Princess Auto for my boost controller. Cost: $8.50

Exhaust is a 2004 WRX from tailpipe to the downpipe discharge flange. New gaskets throughout, of course. Complete to the chirping at the tips of the tailpipe. I had an o2 bung welded after the cat, to mount the factory rear o2 sensor. It seems that the wrx of that year had the front o2 sensor mounted somewhere in the up pipe.... Where the factory rear o2 was mounted on the WRX, is where I have the aem wideband.
I am using the turbo, uppipe, and partial downpipe of an AVO 2.5 RS kit.

The turbo is a ball bearing garrett unit with an AVO modified compressor housing. Pretty sure its a GT25 and supposed to support 320 hp. Intercooler is a stock 2004 WRX piece, with a crushed BOV from the same car, venting to atmosphere (Didnt want to flip the TB). I made the IC fit my removing the wipers and cowling, and cutting a 1/2" strip of metal where the cowling clips into. A liitle bit of boot pressure, and the IC was in without cutting the TB or IC inlet/outlet. I am using Forge Motorsports silicone Y-pipe cut down slightly to meet up with the AVO turbo, and the same brand silicone TB - IC coupler. The intake consists of a 3" dry cone filter, maf adaptor, and a chopped down legacy 2.5 intake pipe. I made a catch can out of pcv pipe and fittings. all the breathers are hooked up to the can, then the can to the intake pipe in front of the turbo. Works like a champ. The downpipe was cut, then had a partial 90 degree welded to it, with the 2004 WRX downpipe flange.

I installed the emanage, gauges, fuel pump and injectors, and learned the support program before I ever installed the turbo. Thats probably the best advice I can give. The tuning is the most important, and you have to be comfortable with the support tool to get the most of it.

Almost forgot: The boost controller dosnt affect the final boost much, so I see about 5-6 psi after a couple seconds in the boost, at WOT. What it does affect is initial boost, allowing an 11-12 PSI spike, tapering to the 5-6 psi I mentioned before. Because first gear is finished so quick, 11 psi is maintained throughout. 2nd, spike to 11-12, then falls to 6 at around 4800-redline. 3rd, 11 psi to 4000, then falls to 6 - redline... Same story in 4th.. The spike only last as long as it takes for the pressure to build at the wastegate. The valve Im using is simply an adjustable restrictor with a check valve built in. So, it restricts the flow of air to the wastegate, but allows the pressure built at the wastegate to be relieved back into the compressor housing. Max voltage at the MAF sensor is 4.6v so far. It peaks at that, then tapers down to about 4.2 at redline. A/F's are around 11.5-12:1 at peak boost, then richens up to 10.5:1 towards redline. I am pulling timing starting at -1 degree at 4v MAF voltage, and tapering down to -8 degrees at 4.8v...

I baby the tranny on shifts, and dont floor the throttle till my foot is right off the clutch.. So far, no clutch slip at all, car just flat hauls ass. Huge torque spike when boost spikes, so the midrange power is stompin'

Maybe you can take something from my build, I hope this helps.

Thats all I feel like writing. Any questions, just shoot.

Last edited by cdnsigop; 11-22-2009 at 07:34 AM. Reason: title
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:27 PM   #15
Jagular1785
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Wow, thats impressive. Is all of this on a stock 2.2l internals? From what you are describing, that is exactly what I am trying to build. Nothing insane, but something thats going to pull hard when you want it to. As far as babying the tranny, I don't consider it babying myself, thats just good driving. Especially if you don't want to replace the gears in the near future. I never have hammered the clutch or tranny.

Do you have the phase 1 single port heads still? I have been told by a few to swap out some wrx heads and lower the c/r, but I would rather stick with the heads I have for multiple reasons (cost, work, headaches, ect.). Plus I really want to keep the header I have; its one of the UEL ones of the RS25 forum for the single port motors like me.

Did you end up check valving any of the vacuum sensors? I was told that the purge canister was the main one that would throw a code if it wasn't done. I just haven't got any clarification of how to go about it or if it truly needed to be done.

Are you happy with the capabilities with the Emanage? Is it somewhat user friendly? I probably will end up doing the ecu before I do anything else, it makes alot of sense, plus like you said, I will get a chance to use it and be able to tune with it before throwing the car a curve.
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
Wow, thats impressive. Is all of this on a stock 2.2l internals? From what you are describing, that is exactly what I am trying to build. Nothing insane, but something thats going to pull hard when you want it to. As far as babying the tranny, I don't consider it babying myself, thats just good driving. Especially if you don't want to replace the gears in the near future. I never have hammered the clutch or tranny. Do you have the phase 1 single port heads still? Did you end up check valving any of the vacuum sensors? Are you happy with the capabilities with the Emanage? Is it somewhat user friendly?
Yeah, stock 2.2 internals. The motor is a 1998, complete with the manual adjustable valve lash, and single port heads.
I use the emanage boost cut map to clamp the MAF no higher than 4.7v. I didnt use check valves anywhere, but I do get the MAP high voltage input code p0108 (This car has both the MAF and MAP sensors). Im using a scangauge, so I just clear the code when it comes. I usually see it on cold days at WOT in 3rd gear. It would be worthwhile to use the check valves to prevent this.
I have yet to see a purge canister code, and it has been about 3-4 weeks of turbocharged bliss under there.. I dont think you need to worry about that.
The Emanage is excellent in my opinion, it has all the adjustability I need(and then some). You gotta have the support tool, injector harness, and ignition harness to be able to use it to its potential, otherwise you basically have a watered down SAFC. Beware of the few Emanage blue's out there with blown Ignition circuits. They will have you tearing your hair out before you realize the circuit in the emanage is blown...(Dont ask me how I know this) I ended up getting another used one, and it was good to go.
It is user friendly IF you have a clue about tuning... Otherwise, searching through here and google can fill the gaps. I would be happy to help set up a basemap for you. Let me know, Good luck!

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Old 12-02-2009, 10:29 PM   #17
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Have you given some thought to recycling the BOV? I saw a guy's RS build on the RS25 forum (http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/9505...roject-12.html) that was getting some significant performance problems until he recirculated it. I plan on doing this too, but that will come in due time.



I am liking the Emanage more and more just because there is a good deal of information on it that isn't as easily found for other piggy back systems. I would definitely be interested in a base map if I do go this route. (I'm in school now so this is a side burner for the time being, but I have began to put money aside for the future should the opportunity present itself). I am probably going to piece this together bit by bit and then go for the conversion when I can afford both the time and money for the turboing stuff. tuning first would not hurt anything if I did it right, and I can prepare for the next step so I could be less of a headache when everything mechanical is done. Thanks again for the help!
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:19 PM   #18
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So after all the holiday stuff has cleared out, I took another look at what I had in mind for this build. I have a thought about the AVO kit. From what I have seen in the manual they have provided, I can get most of the little obscure pieces through the kit and it uses the GT25 turbo that I want to use along with the recirculated BOV, water/oil lines and fittings, and the up and down pipes. If I save up for the added cost and get the EGT, wideband, and boost guages installed, plus an Emanage, I shouldn't be droppping more than 5k into this and have a guaranteed good kit to work with. It'll be even lower if I can find a used kit for less. Does this seem reasonable, going with the kit, or are the oil and water fittings easily found in other places and the pipes easily fabricated? I guess in short, is the kit worth the pretty penny?

http://www.rallitek.com/avo25tukitwi.html
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:18 PM   #19
jmailhot
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kit is not worth the cost.
the oil and water lines are easy and inexpensive.
fabbing pipes aint that hard either.
and if you can buy tubing at the auto store, you can recirculate a bov. just use a stock bpv or buy a bov that is made to recirculate
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:13 PM   #20
Jagular1785
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I guess my main concern was the oil fittings I am more concerned about, the lines aren't hard to find. Where would I get the brass fittings that would work for this? I was planning on tapping off of the oil pressure switch and draining into the pan.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
I guess my main concern was the oil fittings I am more concerned about, the lines aren't hard to find. Where would I get the brass fittings that would work for this? I was planning on tapping off of the oil pressure switch and draining into the pan.
Oil Feed:
I have source here in Kingston that carries a 1/8 BSP male to 1/8 BSP female with a 1/8 NPT female thread on the side of the tee. This would work perfectly for your oil feed. You thread the male BSP into where the oil pressure switch went on the block, and put the oil pressure switch into the female BSP. Then you use a 1/8 NPT fittng on the side of the Tee out to your turbo... PM me if you want one, I kept one in my supplies as a spare, I can send it out to you for about $15...

Oil Drain:
I JB welded a fitting to the passenger side valve cover for the return... Works great so far... Make sure you replace the valve cover gasket with a new one though, mine leaked until I bought a new one.

Good luck...
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:50 AM   #22
Jagular1785
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Oil Feed:
I have source here in Kingston that carries a 1/8 BSP male to 1/8 BSP female with a 1/8 NPT female thread on the side of the tee. This would work perfectly for your oil feed. You thread the male BSP into where the oil pressure switch went on the block, and put the oil pressure switch into the female BSP. Then you use a 1/8 NPT fittng on the side of the Tee out to your turbo... PM me if you want one, I kept one in my supplies as a spare, I can send it out to you for about $15...

Oil Drain:
I JB welded a fitting to the passenger side valve cover for the return... Works great so far... Make sure you replace the valve cover gasket with a new one though, mine leaked until I bought a new one.

Good luck...
Ok, sounds good. For the return line, can you explain a little more how you did the cover hole? Did you bore the hole in the cover then JB weld it? I was thinking of tapping a fitting in the oil pan just for its ease then JB welding it to the pan, but I guess as long as its lower than the turbo, then it shouldn't matter too much.

I'm actually thinking the GT28 ball bearing, with as low A/R as I can find for spool time would be a better choice. The GT25 is a bit harder to find and more expensive, but either will work for me.

I was planning on putting the gauges in (EGT, A/F ratio, and Boost) sometime soon, and fabricating a bracket myself. The only problem I fear with this is that I will run into the airbag unit. I have a ham radio under my radio unit, and I have very limited space. However, that is not a big problem.

With the wideband, you said you had wired it into the factory harness and replaced the factory front with the wideband. Does the controller translate the readings from the wideband to the readings the ecu can understand? Or does it simply send a steady reading. I was told that only the rear could be simulated, or the car would not run correctly, however, this case was on a N/A car that has only the stock ecu.

I'm learning this bit by bit, sorry for the repeated noobishness.
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
Ok, sounds good. For the return line, can you explain a little more how you did the cover hole? Did you bore the hole in the cover then JB weld it? I was thinking of tapping a fitting in the oil pan just for its ease then JB welding it to the pan, but I guess as long as its lower than the turbo, then it shouldn't matter too much.
Long story short, I drilled a hole in the rear of the valve cover, threaded in a 1/2" hose barb fitting (brass), ground down the fitting inside the valve cover until it was flush with the inside walls of the cover, then JB welded in place. It is lower than the turbo in this configuration, and IMHO, 3 x 10mm bolts are easier to remove than the fricken oil pan lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
I'm actually thinking the GT28 ball bearing, with as low A/R as I can find for spool time would be a better choice. The GT25 is a bit harder to find and more expensive, but either will work for me.
To be honest, I know next to nothing about A/R's, but I have had significant experiance with BB turbo's, from my AVO BB (From the AVO 2.RS turbo kit) up to a T3 BB that was factory equipment on the Nissan R33 RB25DET. All I can tell you is that Im mighty pleased with the AVO

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
I was planning on putting the gauges in (EGT, A/F ratio, and Boost) sometime soon, and fabricating a bracket myself. The only problem I fear with this is that I will run into the airbag unit. I have a ham radio under my radio unit, and I have very limited space. However, that is not a big problem.
You will gain a lot of knowledge, and some tuning understanding just by having those gauges hooked up sooner, rather than later. You can get an idea of how the engine is supposed to run, and get used to monitoring those gauges before it is critical! (like when you are leaning out to 16:1 AFR's at WOT spiking to 14psi on a -20 degree day lol)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
With the wideband, you said you had wired it into the factory harness and replaced the factory front with the wideband. Does the controller translate the readings from the wideband to the readings the ecu can understand? Or does it simply send a steady reading. I was told that only the rear could be simulated, or the car would not run correctly, however, this case was on a N/A car that has only the stock ecu.
Yes, the AEM UEGO can and does simulate a narrowband o2, for output to the stock ecu. There is 4? possible output settings from it, adjusted at the back of the gauge. So the gauge displays WB AFR's, and the output to the ecu simulates a factory narrowband o2. I have not simulated the rear, It functions normally after the catalytic converter, as it should.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
I'm learning this bit by bit, sorry for the repeated noobishness.
At least you try to do the research yourself, unlike some others around here...PM me if you need the fitting, but you can probably get it locally at a hydraulic fitting shop or hardware store. I know my source has one more in stock, the part isnt in demand at his store lol...He has had it in his stock for over 15 years!
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:25 AM   #24
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Well I know I haven't put much up here lately, school got hectic and I started working a bit more. Long story short, I came to a few realizations over this time. 1. The motor is getting less and less miles per gallon, getting about 18-19 on the highway. I also noticed that it is eating some oil and coolant, but not terribly much (about a half qt. oil in the last thousand miles and maybe that much in coolant since last november. Well as I investigated this, I checked compression, and found that I had 140 and 135 psi on one side and 110 and 120 psi on the other. Not good. I'm not too surprised (the motor has almost 200k miles on it) however, this will set this project back a while. I was planning on replacing the rings and headgasket over the next few weeks, however, I came across a motor with only 9k miles on it for a total cost of 1200$. I couldn't pass this up, since that would give me a motor that is practically new and a project motor that I can tear down and rebuild and enhance without having to worry about having the car inoperable. If this new motor is legit (waiting on the people to pull it out of the car) I'm probably going to add some better cams, forged internals, injectors and a few other modifications along with the new bearings ect. to make it a better platform to boost on.

If things don't go as planned, I'm getting another longblock from the local pick n' pull for a few hundred bucks, put the new headgasket and rings in my current motor, then rebuild the junkyard motor instead.

So that's where I'm at currently. I'm a bit disappointed that the motor is worn out, but I know that it would be stupid to try and build on it in its current condition. Plus it will be much easier to build on things this way.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:43 AM   #25
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Found a clutch that will be plenty for this. I just had to look a little harder I guess. Spec stage 1, good for 302 ft/lbs.
spec is garbage...get an ACT organic disc stg 1....it will suit your needs and feel more stock.
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