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Old 10-25-2009, 02:03 PM   #1
Athrin
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Default 06 WRX brake pad replacement help / how to compress caliper piston

I've search through out nasioc maintenance about how to compress front caliper piston. Does anyone have a suggestion? I have an 06 WRX with 4 piston caliper fronts and trying to replace the pads with Hawk HPS.

I still have the original pads and currently all I have to do is pull it off but i notice that piston will have to be compressed for the pad to fit to the rotors.


Appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:06 PM   #2
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I'm not sure if it's the same for you but i usually just use the old pad and a C-clamp to compress the piston.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:30 PM   #3
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The C-clamp works but I find a $10 Pad Spreader is a little better if you don't mind another unitasker tool. Any auto parts store should have one. Make sure to use it against the old pad, not directly on the piston.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947365000P
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:04 PM   #4
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i just use a pry bar against the old pad to compress. i took out the caliper already. i'll also just replace the rotors, doesn't look like the rotors just come off by itself if you pull it. Is there a bolt holding the rotors against the hub?
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athrin View Post
i just use a pry bar against the old pad to compress. i took out the caliper already. i'll also just replace the rotors, doesn't look like the rotors just come off by itself if you pull it. Is there a bolt holding the rotors against the hub?
front or rear? Fronts should just slide off if not they are rusted on. Liquid wrench or break free and a BFH.
rears make sure the parking brake is not on. It may also be rusted on repeat as above or find 2 bolts that fit in the threaded holes and tighten each one, alternating as you do so.


as for resetting the pistons, 2 c-clamps against the old pads always does the trick.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:38 PM   #6
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If i use the two c-clamp, would i need to do something with the brake fluid? Reason I'm asking is i'm not planning to bleed my brake fluid.

And what's the best way to compress all 4 piston at the same time?

If I use two c-clamp would I expect a leak of brake fluid somewhere? or over loading the master cylinder would cause any leakage?
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:57 PM   #7
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no I just did my 07 brakes. Leave the old pads in put a c-clamp on the inside of the caliper and one on the outside and compress each side alternatlely till the pistons are set. If you do one pad at atime it will push out the other pistons on the caliper
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:10 PM   #8
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What pads are you all using? Anyone have experience with Axxis?? Is the extra $$ for EBC TReds or Hawk Street worth it for a daily driver?
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:22 PM   #9
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I use a 12inch channel lock with taped jaws and the old pad against the pistons

takes a minit
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:43 PM   #10
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4-pot, 2-pot setup.

Do one pad at a time.

Wiggle one old pad out. Rotate 90* so the friction material is against the rotor. Use pad as lever to push back in the piston(s). Slide in new pad to take up the space. Remove other old pad, turn 90*, use as lever, slide in second new pad.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
4-pot, 2-pot setup.

Do one pad at a time.

Wiggle one old pad out. Rotate 90* so the friction material is against the rotor. Use pad as lever to push back in the piston(s). Slide in new pad to take up the space. Remove other old pad, turn 90*, use as lever, slide in second
new pad.
that never works for me. I push in one side the pistons on the other pad pop out. That is why I use 2 c-clamps against the old pads one on each side.

For DD the Hawk HPS are just fine. They are quiet, don't eat up the rotors and last pretty long.

How does anyone feel about removing the front dust shields? I figure it would cool
the rotors better but is there any downside to it? I know removing the rears is a
bad idea because the parking brake will get screwed up.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subiesoho View Post
that never works for me. I push in one side the pistons on the other pad pop out. That is why I use 2 c-clamps against the old pads one on each side.
That's why you leave the old pad in while you do the first one. When you do the other side the new pad is in place to keep the pistons from moving.
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:44 AM   #13
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I just use my fingers to push the pistons in. Push two pistons on the same side at the same time. Then do on the other side. Do it back and forth and both side will be in.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:18 AM   #14
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GDBF =

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Old 10-31-2009, 12:00 PM   #15
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Two c-clamps works just fine.

Does the rear rotor come off similar to the fronts? Similar that once the calipers are off, you just wiggle the rotor and it comes off? I"ve already removed the rear calipers and I don't see any bolt or screw attaching the rotor to the hub.
I guess it's just rusted that bad? Any idea? Any tricks to get that sucker off?
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:16 PM   #16
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1. make sure the handbrake is off

2. yes it may be rusted on - may be necessary to whack it a few times OR wind a couple of bolts into the 2 little holes on the face of the rotor hat to push it off the hub

3. if it starts to come off but appears to hang up on something it may still be the parking brake - it sometimes wears a ridge that snags - you may need to back it off further with the 'star wheel' adjuster
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
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1. make sure the handbrake is off

2. yes it may be rusted on - may be necessary to whack it a few times OR wind a couple of bolts into the 2 little holes on the face of the rotor hat to push it off the hub

3. if it starts to come off but appears to hang up on something it may still be the parking brake - it sometimes wears a ridge that snags - you may need to back it off further with the 'star wheel' adjuster
Thanks for the advice. Made sure parking brake was off and I ended up using a 20 pound hammer. All rotors are installed now and i'm definitely loving the new feel when braking.

Does anyone use a specific brake quiet or lube to put on the shims? I think i hear the shims when I turn hard to the left with a little (very little grinding sound) comming from the front passenger side. I made sure shims are secured by the way. Also note that I had to reuse the old shims.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:25 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the help guys. Really appreciate all the advice and help you've given to me.
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDBF View Post
I just use my fingers to push the pistons in. Push two pistons on the same side at the same time. Then do on the other side. Do it back and forth and both side will be in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bushflyr View Post
GDBF =

^^^ Hahahaha this

I was like, is it really possible to do it by hand ? I mean when the car is brand new are the pistons that easy to push ?

Last weekend when I did my brakes I used a small bench vise (not attached to a bench obviously) to squeeze the piston but I did it the vise jaws contacting directly the piston, at that time I figured that the piston end was fairly solid but now I read here that damage is possible. What damage are we talking about ?


Last edited by frederik; 11-03-2009 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:26 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frederik View Post
I am using a small bench vise (not attached to a bench obviously) to squeeze the piston but I did it the vise jaws contacting directly the piston. Is it possible to do significant damage by doing it this way ? I figured that the piston end was fairly solid.

anybody that would attempt to use a bench vise......with the other options listed, above, in this thread

is a lunatic
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:00 PM   #21
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i use my fingers force, no problem..
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:10 PM   #22
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definitely was not fortunate to just use my fingers. do you guys use any specific brake quiet i.e CRC Brake Quiet ?
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:04 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athrin View Post
If i use the two c-clamp, would i need to do something with the brake fluid? Reason I'm asking is i'm not planning to bleed my brake fluid.

And what's the best way to compress all 4 piston at the same time?

If I use two c-clamp would I expect a leak of brake fluid somewhere? or over loading the master cylinder would cause any leakage?
If you don't bleed while pushing the pistons back, then the fluid gets pushed back up the system. If your reservoir was filled with brake fluid when you had new pads installed, then pushing the fluid back up will not overflow the system.

However, if you topped off the fluid while you had used pads, then pushing fluid back can overflow the system. You will need a turkey baster or some other method for sucking fluid out of the reservoir so that it does not overflow.

I've been using a screw driver between the old pad and the rotor to leverage the pistons closed. Replace one pad at a time will prevent pushing the piston back from causing another piston to extend out.
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athrin View Post
definitely was not fortunate to just use my fingers. do you guys use any specific brake quiet i.e CRC Brake Quiet ?
Silver or copper anti-seize.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
anybody that would attempt to use a bench vise......with the other options listed, above, in this thread

is a lunatic
?? mmkay lol thanks for the help.

I thought it would be clear that I read this thread after doing the vise thing. I didnt intend to say "hey btw the best option is that awful bench vise, all other options sucks" but merely asking what kind of damage could I have already caused by doing it (in the past, like before reading this thread, uncle scotty).

I will edit my post just for you so you can understand better what I actually meant.
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