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Old 10-31-2009, 05:57 PM   #1
LuckyStar
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Default Flashing CEL problem.. help!

So I was driving at WOT the other day, didn't hit the rev limiter or anything like that, but a Flashing CEL came on and I immediately started driving like grandma.
After a minute of flashing, it would disappear. Then within like 2 minutes it would start flashing again, then disappear and reappear. Eventually after like half an hour of driving it stayed solid.
I connected a code reader and it says there are no codes..
I then had it erase all codes to see if it would clear the CEL, which it did. Then a few minutes later I get the flashing CEL again, but it never got to the point where it stayed solid.

Just some other info, my car has a reflash to 16psi and even with the CEL there was no noticeable power loss. Anyone got any clue whats goin on?
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:09 PM   #2
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Anyone?
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:33 PM   #3
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flashing cel is a misfire......and your code reader sucks and ya NEED to get a better scanner and GET THE CODE(S)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:34 PM   #4
LuckyStar
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Got a $200 code reader and still no code...
The light does not stay on.. it will flash for like 15-30secs and then go away for 30 secs - 2 mins..
No power loss, and when I drive at WOT no light comes, but when I slow down it will start to flash..
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:36 PM   #5
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OK...then you should have real time data streaming and can figure out which cylinder(s) is(are) misfiring and go from there

plugs
coilpacks
injectiors

or a blown motor
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
OK...then you should have real time data streaming and can figure out which cylinder(s) is(are) misfiring and go from there

plugs
coilpacks
injectiors

or a blown motor
Valves? Or is that considered a blown motor?
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:18 PM   #7
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Valves? Or is that considered a blown motor?
well.....it mighta skipped a tooth on the belt
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:41 AM   #8
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I was thinking a valve clearance problem, or tight valves or something along those lines.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:05 PM   #9
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Ok, I am trying to do the easiest things first to get them outta of the way and narrow down the problem. I doubt that it is a coil or plug because the Flashing CEL goes away completely sometimes.
I think it is a stuck valve, so my next question is how do you guys feel about using SeaFoam to clean the engine internals out? Or do you have a different recommendation?
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:09 PM   #10
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I agree with UC--figure out which cylinder is misfiring and go from there. It could be something as simple as a bad plug. Don't jump straight into seafoaming and call it a day.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:50 PM   #11
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I had this happen to me the other week and I pulled over and I pulled 4 codes. Misfire in cylinders 1,2,3,4. Ha it didnt come back after I cleared it so f-it.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:02 AM   #12
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So I pulled one code..
P1300 which is a Random Misfire after I did some extensive searching (not in the big list of ecu codes)...

I searched all over and there was a wrx in atlanta that had same symptoms and code... they didn't post any results though..
Anyone have experience with this code?
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:45 AM   #13
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Not sure what it's worth, but I was having the same problem for about a week... Flashing light for a little bit, then it would stay solid, but no noticable symptoms. I started looking at a few parameters while logging, and noticed that the voltage on the rear O2 sensor heater circuit voltage was jumping all over the place and the voltage from the sensor itself would zero out for a while, then jump all over the place for a bit, then zero back out for a while and so on. I crawled under the car and fiddled with the rear o2 connector a bit, and afterward, the heater voltage stayed pretty solid and the sensor would give a consistant reading , no more blinking or solid CEL.

Worth a try ($0): disconnect your rear o2 sensor and use a little electronic parts cleaner on it to clean up the contacts, check the entire legnth of the wires to make sure there is no damage or spots where it might have been burned by exhaust heat. You can check your o2 sensor with a multimeter to make sure nothing is wrong with it.

My understanding from what I've researched is that a flashing CEL is an real-time/immediate emissions problem (an issue that could cause damage to the cat when excessive unburned fuel is entering the exhaust stream)... Often this can be caused by a bad misfire. If your rear sensor is not reading correctly, it might cause this as well... Since you're problem sounds like mine with no noticable hesitation or other clear symptoms, check your rear O2 sensor. If it's still good, run down Uncle Scotty's list: plugs/coil packs/injectors. Usually those cause more noticable symptoms though, hesitation, random pops from the exhaust, rough idle, or just plain running on 3 cylinders if a coil pack has failed completely.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyStar View Post
So I pulled one code..
P1300 which is a Random Misfire after I did some extensive searching (not in the big list of ecu codes)...

I searched all over and there was a wrx in atlanta that had same symptoms and code... they didn't post any results though..
Anyone have experience with this code?
no....this is incorrect there is NO p1300 code for an 02 wrx


if it was p1301 them that means that your factory egt and/or up pipe cat is bad and needs to be ****canned
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargis View Post
I started looking at a few parameters while logging, and noticed that the voltage on the rear O2 sensor heater circuit voltage was jumping all over the place and the voltage from the sensor itself would zero out for a while
The heater circuit uses a duty cycle, which causes it to turn off and on. Perfectly normal.

Depending on what the oxygen content is the sensor may zero itself out temporarily, but normally it will oscillate like a sinewave.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyStar View Post
Got a $200 code reader and still no code...
The light does not stay on.. it will flash for like 15-30secs and then go away for 30 secs - 2 mins..
No power loss, and when I drive at WOT no light comes, but when I slow down it will start to flash..
You've got something real strange going on.... I've got the cheapest 60$ scanner I could get and it pulled misfire codes, from the same situation... it flashed for 10 sec, went away... pulled a P0301 and a P0302 at home?

As US said, there is not P1300 code for Subaru's? http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...obd2-codes.php

Only a 1301 which is a fire code, but not a misfire code.. but it says "fire due to increased exhaust temp"
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haelan View Post
The heater circuit uses a duty cycle, which causes it to turn off and on. Perfectly normal.

Depending on what the oxygen content is the sensor may zero itself out temporarily, but normally it will oscillate like a sinewave.
Yes, the heater circuit voltage fluctuates normally, but not off for 1 second, then flicker on off for a bit, then off again for 3 seconds, then between 0 and 1 or 1 and 3 volts then off again... Catch my drift? It wasn't the normal consistant pattern.

Same for the O2 signal itself... It would flicker then stay off for several seconds up to say a minute, then fluctuate for a little while, then on/off again.

Something was very obviously not right compared to the normal fluctuation. By "pretty solid" or "consistant" I meant "normal fluctuation" or "fluctuation within a normal pattern," not neccesarily a dead solid reading. Sorry if my wording confused you. What I was getting was a lot of strange histerisis in what Romraider's logger was showing. Once I cleaned up the connector and re-connected it, things returned back to a more stable pattern and no more flashing CEL.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:58 PM   #18
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I think he meant P0300 which is a random misfire...

I've seen this code due to an arcing coilpack.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhargis View Post
Yes, the heater circuit voltage fluctuates normally, but not off for 1 second, then flicker on off for a bit, then off again for 3 seconds, then between 0 and 1 or 1 and 3 volts then off again... Catch my drift? It wasn't the normal consistant pattern.

Same for the O2 signal itself... It would flicker then stay off for several seconds up to say a minute, then fluctuate for a little while, then on/off again.

Something was very obviously not right compared to the normal fluctuation. By "pretty solid" or "consistant" I meant "normal fluctuation" or "fluctuation within a normal pattern," not neccesarily a dead solid reading. Sorry if my wording confused you. What I was getting was a lot of strange histerisis in what Romraider's logger was showing. Once I cleaned up the connector and re-connected it, things returned back to a more stable pattern and no more flashing CEL.
Your scanner / laptop simply cannot read the values fast enough to refresh them in real-time. You're probably catching every 1/10 of the data changes. This is normal and there's nothing you can do about it.

Some data may even get lost in the transaction and show up reading the same value or 0. This is especially true if you're reading too many values at once.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:42 PM   #20
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I will check the O2 sensor this weekend..
It is very random when the check engine light flashes... sometimes 15mins between flashes.. sometimes it flashes for 5mins and other times for 5secs
It has stayed solid twice now and the code I have gotten when solid is P1300... again that is P1300... I am not mistyping, that is the code that I am pulling..
When I clear the code and it starts flashing there is no code until it goes solid, which can take 1-2 days
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by LuckyStar View Post
I will check the O2 sensor this weekend..
It is very random when the check engine light flashes... sometimes 15mins between flashes.. sometimes it flashes for 5mins and other times for 5secs
It has stayed solid twice now and the code I have gotten when solid is P1300... again that is P1300... I am not mistyping, that is the code that I am pulling..
When I clear the code and it starts flashing there is no code until it goes solid, which can take 1-2 days
I found some links to some 200-2002 Saab owners complaining about a P1300. They had borked ECU's. It's an 'igniter circuit' malfunction.

I still can't find any instance of this happening on a Subaru...
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:55 PM   #22
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That would suck if my ecu is ****ed up... but it still runs good so I think probly not..
Gonna check and clean all O2 sensors this weekend, and if that does not work I am going to SeaFoam (hoping that it is just a stuck valve and cleaning the carbon will help)...
After that if it still is flashing at me I am going to check spark plugs (maybe replace), and coil pack connectors...
After that I will check the timing to see if it jumped a tooth..

Going from easiest to hardest lol... I will update when I have found the problem and thank you all for the suggestions.. any more ideas are still welcome
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyStar View Post
That would suck if my ecu is ****ed up... but it still runs good so I think probly not..
Gonna check and clean all O2 sensors this weekend, and if that does not work I am going to SeaFoam (hoping that it is just a stuck valve and cleaning the carbon will help)...
attempting to clean o2 sensors destroys them

dont
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haelan View Post
I think he meant P0300 which is a random misfire...

I've seen this code due to an arcing coilpack.
there is no p0300 in the fsm either

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Old 11-06-2009, 01:18 PM   #25
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Just a small update, still have not had time to check anything but will be doing that tomorrow..

Yesterday it was raining out, and the CEL flashed once, went to a solid CEL.. and no longer flashed (which it usually still does)..
Pulled the code... P1300 again, IDC if it doesn't exist in Subarus, thats the code I keep getting lol
Reset the ecu, CEL was flashing one more time the entire day.. which is very unusual because it was lasting 5 mins without flashing at the most the past week..

WTF? LOL
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