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Old 11-01-2009, 01:53 AM   #1
Rod702
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Default help 1st gear sticking/hard to engage as well

ppg helical synchros, with twin exedy clutch. just replaced the clutch last december after i replaced it cluth engaged really deep so i adjusted it out so it engages longer. Now it seams like 1st gear sticks sometimes when im at a stop light and the car wants to creep forward. also its hard to engage in first gear sometimes as well, other gears are fine. its only first gear thats the problem? i was thinking to adjust clutch throw deeper like when i first installed clutch.

any tranny gurus out there that can help diagnose my problem?
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:46 AM   #2
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Sounds like you are not fully disengaging the clutch.
Does it shift into/out of 1st easy when the engine is off? If so, readjust the clutch so it's getting fully disengaged.
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:50 AM   #3
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good point, forgot to bring that up, its does engage/disengage while the engine is off. how do i know when clutch is fully disengaged?

if it helps i made rod longer on clutch lever so that the clutch isnt so deep.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:04 AM   #4
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I would bleed it first to make sure it has no air, you may also still have a rubber line between the clutch master cyl & slave cyl. That could be giving a bit also making it a low pedal.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:45 PM   #5
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called exedy they blame tranny, they claim if clutch was bad it would effect all gears and only first. called andrewtech and they said it was clutch ? don't know who to believe?

I adjusted engagement both ways long/short still problem persist.
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:10 AM   #6
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Is that clutch NEW or used???

Installation "can" affect it if the hubs are bent on the discs.
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:03 AM   #7
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used with 60-70% meat on disc. so you think this would cause the 1st gear dilema?
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:34 AM   #8
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Old 11-13-2009, 03:31 AM   #9
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so you think it was installed wrong?
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:02 PM   #10
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so you think it was installed wrong?
no... but the plates can warp. When they do they don't let go fully then you can't shift when the car is on. If you DO shift hard and continue driving with the issue, your synchros wear out.

So... buying USED twin/triple plate clutches are kind of iffy.
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:44 AM   #11
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just to update this thread for future twin exedy owners. I replaced disc and intermediate plate and front plate. cost around 800 with new bearings. it was all worth it though car shifts like buttah, also the clutch feel is softer the stock which is great cuz I daily drive this car.

I think it's a good idea to replace plates everyother clutch pad change.
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:22 AM   #12
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Funny thread. Exedy blames the trans Those guys crack me up sometimes.


Yea I might try just disks this next time since it was installed correctly this time. Yet I will measure it before I deside. I will post my findings.
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:16 AM   #13
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Funny thread. Exedy blames the trans Those guys crack me up sometimes.


Yea I might try just disks this next time since it was installed correctly this time. Yet I will measure it before I deside. I will post my findings.
hey man when you first change the disc out did you notice some chatter when clutch is engaged after install? i didint notice it the first time, but then again i installed it with used clutch disc. i called exedy and been told its quite normal after the 500 mile break in period it should smoothen out..

also did you do the clutch cylinder mod, taking the guts out?
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:12 PM   #14
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ok when I first had the clutch installed the chatter was insane. All the time in 1st gear. When I installed the new disks correctly there was no chatter what so ever. Then when I installed the clutch parts during my ppg rebuild. The clutch chatter pretty good but not crazy like when the shop installed it. I had the clip pop off the pressure plate and I went back in and found the disks were not installed correctly. It was off set but not enough to give smooth operation. When I installed the disks this last 2 times. I used a broken input shaft. Then aligned the disks with the clutch loose but doing so from the top of the engine. This way I was able to see exactly where the disks lined up. Tightened it down and wiggled the input shaft back out. Pushed the front of the motor up by using two straps to the dog bone bolt. This allowed me to line up just right and slide right in. Yet take the straps off soon as you bolt up.

If you have any questions feel free to hit me up or post again.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:39 PM   #15
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hey man when you first change the disc out did you notice some chatter when clutch is engaged after install? i didint notice it the first time, but then again i installed it with used clutch disc. i called exedy and been told its quite normal after the 500 mile break in period it should smoothen out..

also did you do the clutch cylinder mod, taking the guts out?
Also I ignored the breaking time Exedy is not always correct. That's why I had to laugh at the trans being the problem. They were guessing. I would have known right away, because of my experience with this clutch. The hard 1st gear is typical. If you powered up in 4th or 5th it would slip. If you drove it to much farther you would do more damage to the plates as you had no disk material left. I did that last times and stopped once it was tough to shift into 1st gear.

Also exedy was inaccurate about the plates. They told me that the plates could be reused. Yet never mentioned what to look for when I consider reusing them. If the clutch chatters then don't bother reusing the center and front plate as they can't be resurfaced. Don't bother to try having them resurfaced idther as it will change the effectiveness of the clutch and shorten the life of the disks drastically. So that's why I said I will look at the plates this next time. See if they are worth reusing.

I tried bleeding the clutch master and slave a few times after install. Everything failed. Even the method by steve at suby specialties by removing the cylinder and filling the slave. Yet after pumping it by hand 200 times top to bottom and a re-bleed it works like a champ.

Then I had the clip pop off again and I had to replace the rings in the center. Prying them off a dead clutch and installing them on the exedy twin disk. That fixed the problem completely. I will be finishing my install today. Since the under coating is dry. The tunnel area under the car has no under coating. So I used 2 cans of rustoleum's undercoating. It did a nice job. Now to see if it lowers the sound any. As well test the clip.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:08 AM   #16
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update to this thread: 800 dollars later new disc and new intermediate plate and front plate, the 1st gear issue still lingers...?

called evan today, and he said when intermediate plate is installed there is a machined pumpkin thats suppose to align to the flywheel side. F****kin exedy website with manual didnt state that so now i have to go back into my tranny and see what the hell this all about. kinda ticked, tranny removal/install cost me about 2-3 days worth of work and its not a easy task when doing it by yourself.

almost makes me want to go and just buy a tilton and call it a day, but already 800 in the hole might as well try to make this work.

Last edited by Rod702; 01-08-2010 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:10 AM   #17
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anybody else having these same issues with the twin exedy clutch?

furthermore he also stated that it could be the slave cylinder going out as well?
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:01 PM   #18
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Read your new posts. Sent you pm. Call me.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:12 PM   #19
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Something to add from our conversation. As you mentioned above about how Exedy says you may have installed the "pumpkin" wrong.

I think Exedy could be wrong. Why... Because if you follow the directions you installed the parts in the correct order. First the flywheel after resurface of the face and the towers. Next install the back disk. Install the middle plate. Now it doesn't matter how it goes no as long as it fits with a little play on the towers. There is no front or back on this part. next the front disk. Then the front plate with the flat part facing the disk. Next the ring so it is on the front of the plate "L" Part up. Then add the pressure plate. Align and torque to 15 foot pounds. I actually go 20 lbs.

So I don't see why they claim that the pumpkin could cause the rear disk to cause the problem with it engaging the clutch while at a stop light.

Like I said I think the clutch slave / master is more likely to be the problem. Simply not providing enough travel for the clutch to disengage. Now this can we part of your adjustment. Yet it depends on how much adjustment you gave it. I would check on how much adjustment you gave it. As to much and you might have caused your own problem.

Alright, let me know what happened.
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:35 PM   #20
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im debating that the sti twin exedy is causing issues in my wrx transmission. thats what exedy tech guy said.

different part number for both clutch kits, also different lengths?

anybody want to chime in on this to confirm?
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:55 PM   #21
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What part numbers do you have?
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:51 AM   #22
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FM012SD wrx 2004 ceramic
FM022SD sti 2004 ceramic

although the disc might be the same, i think it has to do with the length of the transmission spline, so the throw is different?
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:00 AM   #23
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Interesting. Yet the front and rear disk will have simular part numbers.

I was thinking. With a 5mt clutch with a 6mt swap you use the 5mt clutch fork. So I was wondering if it was the same issue with travel with the reverse type of setup.
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:11 AM   #24
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now that i think about it i did have "some" play on the throwout bearing on the pressure plate. it wasnt snug tight, dont know if thats usual?

maybe if i can just buy the pressure plate for just the wrx and replace the sti pressure plate?
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:15 AM   #25
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Should have some play, about an inch at the pedal.

Will chat with you more tomarrow.
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