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Old 11-02-2009, 04:36 PM   #1
Blakestr018
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Exclamation Need Opinions On Build

I have a 05 Wrx with 124000 miles on the motor. All stock minus the intake and turbo back. I am still learning about this motor and it's needs so I need opinions. Not just bulls***. I am looking at possibly spending 12-1500 dollars. I don't know if I should just rebuild to stock and bank the rest for the future boltons or what. Thanks
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:44 PM   #2
nhat
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did you get a tune for the intake and exhaust?
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhat View Post
did you get a tune for the intake and exhaust?
this

our cars/engines (I drive a Legacy, but have the EJ257) are finicky and need to be tuned for the parts....but it is drivable.....go ahead and ask me how I know Nov 10 cannot get here soon enough
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:35 PM   #4
Blakestr018
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No tune AP is the plan come income tax money. My friend said he can port and polish my heads with a 3 angle valve job for 500.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:39 PM   #5
nhat
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you got 2 options:
1. don't drive the car
2. get an opensource stage 2 map flashed

don't worry about the heads, they won't matter if you blow the engine before you even get a chance to install them. the money you could've spent on any other mods will go towards just getting your car back on the road.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:55 PM   #6
Blakestr018
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What if I were to rebuild the engine. Then a few months later get accessport? The main thing is down the road I want to push 300/300 reliably. But with 124,000 I am real skeptical. Would I be better to just wait it out 6 months and just do a Sti swap?
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:08 PM   #7
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Put the stock intake back in it and it should be fine till you get a tune. Sadly, $1200-1500 isn't going to buy you 300/300 or an STI motor installed. I doubt it'll even pay for refreshing the shortblock. Injectors and a turbo is about all I think that'll get you. Not including the AP.
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:09 PM   #8
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nothing is going to be reliable as long as you don't get a tune...rebuilt engine or not. you can drive the current engine into the ground, spend money to rebuild it, and throw the same parts back on...but if you don't tune it right then, you're wasting a lot of money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
Put the stock intake back in it and it should be fine till you get a tune.
you skipped the part where he mentioned a turboback with no tune
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
Put the stock intake back in it and it should be fine till you get a tune. Sadly, $1200-1500 isn't going to buy you 300/300 or an STI motor installed. I doubt it'll even pay for refreshing the shortblock. Injectors and a turbo is about all I think that'll get you. Not including the AP.
Yeah, that's what I was going to say...

We are rebuilding what for $1,500?

You could possibly buy a turbo for that much, but forget motor...
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:20 PM   #10
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05 is a 2.0. As long as he's not overboosting and has a stock intake, I don't see the problem. As long as the MAF is able to read airflow, the ECU will be able to compensate. I think the intake is the more dangerous of the mods. If you mess up the MAF calibration, you're really looking at a popped motor.

I was never a real believer in "tune for every change" mantra that Nasioc seems to follow.
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:44 PM   #11
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everything i've read has stated that only the 02/03 ecu is able to handle no tune. yada yada yada CL/OL delay...wasn't aware the 04/05 wrx 2.0 could do it as well...
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:52 PM   #12
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Every car has some leeway built into the tune. That's why the overboost limits on the 2.0's (in the ECU) are 17 something PSI even though stock boost is 14ish. In closed loop, the ECU is looking at the front AF sensor and the MAF to know how much fuel to inject. In open loop, it's just looking at the MAF and squirting fuel based on measured airflow and requested AF ratio in the ECU load/RPM table.

I think about how all that works and assume the ECU can compensate for more airflow automatically. You're correct though that the OL/CL delay will delay when it transitions to OL though. Maybe I'm comfortable because I've zeroed out the OL/CL table in my 05 ECU.

Well, he's not popped it yet and I assume this isn't a new change so, I think in practice it seems to have worked out for him.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:12 PM   #13
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The 04/05 2.0L motors have a long OL/CL delay, much longer than the 02/03s. Some people have logged 5 seconds of PTFB OL fueling before the switch.

Last edited by TurbojonLS; 11-03-2009 at 09:32 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:12 AM   #14
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Get a tune and spend the rest on suspension. Sways. Koni Inserts or d-specs with good springs. And whatever bushings you can replace.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mav1c View Post
Get a tune and spend the rest on suspension. Sways. Koni Inserts or d-specs with good springs. And whatever bushings you can replace.
This.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:17 PM   #16
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Ok so I understand the tuning process. I will get that asap. So then comes the engine. I go on deployment for 3.5 months I am looking at what I should do then. Would i be better off just rebuilding or better of just starting off with the sti block? A lil above or a lil below 300/300 to the wheels is the goal. I am afraid of putting more on a 124k engine.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:17 AM   #17
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1200-1500 isn't going to get you even close to 300 to the wheels reliably... you should also look at a clutch that could handle the power, a transmission upgrade to handle it (our transmissions suck), injectors, and everything else you'll need to do it reliably and safely... not to mention the stock turbo will not be able to get you to that kind of power so a turbo upgrade would be needed as well. There's a lot that goes into making power that a lot of people don't realize... start doing a lot of research about it and you'll find a lot of knowledge on these boards.

Like everyone else said a tune is the most important thing.
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:55 PM   #18
Blakestr018
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Thanks for the insight everyone.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:42 PM   #19
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A Tune then driving lessons with a certified instructor at a local track.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:47 PM   #20
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300WHP on that car will cost you at least 6K IF DONE PROPERLY..... probably closer to 8K.

Mav1c is correct, get an AP and suspension mods if 1.5K is your budget limit.
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gagliano View Post
300WHP on that car will cost you at least 6K IF DONE PROPERLY..... probably closer to 8K.

Mav1c is correct, get an AP and suspension mods if 1.5K is your budget limit.
It would be nice to get some quality tires too... they play the biggest role in handling.
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:08 AM   #22
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I would say an open souce reflash would be your best bet if you plan on staying stock turbo.

For the price of the AP, you can get a quality road tune done at DPS.

After that, everyone else is right, make it turn faster... Struts (Seriously, at 124k your stock struts are DONE), springs, and a big front sway.... Nice tires, alignment, and enjoy!
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:12 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
Sadly, $1200-1500 isn't going to buy you 300/300 or an STI motor installed. I doubt it'll even pay for refreshing the shortblock.
Wait, what?

Rings, bearings, hone, maybe even pistons+overbore... That can't be more than like $500
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gagliano View Post
300WHP on that car will cost you at least 6K IF DONE PROPERLY..... probably closer to 8K.

Mav1c is correct, get an AP and suspension mods if 1.5K is your budget limit.
Seriously? Really? Are you high?
Super 16G or a normal/small 18G, w/ 650 injectors and a tune will get you close to your HP goal. Hell, even a VF series turbo tuned aggressively or with water/alk injection will get you there.
Its not ideal but you can still use your stock TMIC, though I would look at a STi TMIC at the very least.
650-1000 for the turbo
200-300 for the injectors,
200-300 for OS tune or AP + tune (700)
How does that resemble 6K?

To the OP, the best overall thing you can do to your car for that much is spend some time on the classifieds here. See what you can get cheap and go from there.
Absolutely find a cheap APV1 and run a St2 map.
Then look for (sort of in order, but when you find a deal, jump on it):
Better wheels/tires (not huge since you are leaving before next summer)
Decent shocks (Koni Yellows, D-specs)
Shifter bushings +SS
F/R sway bars and end links.
steering rack bushings
Brake pads
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Rings, bearings, hone, maybe even pistons+overbore... That can't be more than like $500
$500? That won't even buy the parts much less the machine work.

Pistons will cost you $429 for some weiscos.
Stock pistons and rings are about $300.
Gasket kit - $218
Bearings - $131
Replace the head bolts - can't find the cost. Probably $100
Head gaskets are $40 each. I don't know if the gasket kit includes them or not.

That doesn't include taking the motor out, disassembly and re-assembly. I'm skeptical the OP has the skillz to do this major surgery. I've refreshed a motor before. You'd be shocked by how much you forget you need and get nickel and dimed for.

Last edited by MasterKwan; 11-05-2009 at 10:38 AM.
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