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Old 02-08-2010, 11:25 PM   #51
subbyhatch18
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wow...i must tell you that is THE most well planned setup ive ever seen..

the reason i say that is, i have a 96 impreza with the same stock ej22 non turbo setup and have been searching everyday for someone to give me some pointers. Ive actually been following this to the letter, except for going through the trial and error stages of course.

Just wanted to say thanks,
Tim
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:18 AM   #52
cdnsigop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subbyhatch18 View Post
wow...i must tell you that is THE most well planned setup ive ever seen..

the reason i say that is, i have a 96 impreza with the same stock ej22 non turbo setup and have been searching everyday for someone to give me some pointers. Ive actually been following this to the letter, except for going through the trial and error stages of course.

Just wanted to say thanks,
Tim
Your welcome!

So, although a few paragraphs wont expose the amount of headache, effort, and obsenities that went into putting the six speed in, I will try to describe it anyway...

The six is BIG. It is a HEAVY, beefy, excellent monster, that absolutely dwarfs the stock 5 spd. It is simply mammoth, and did I mention HEAVY???

The stock 5 spd... Well, to put it the way another member of this forum did... WEAKSAUCE! It is puny. When you are comparing the two, the six is almost twice the width in some sections.

I did all the work up to the part of the 6 spd being installed. So I removed evrything, including the transmission. NOT FUN. Once the tranny was out, a friend (A very generous one) helped me move the 6 spd next to the five to compare, and to swap parts.

PARTS SWAPPED, FROM 5 SPD TO 6 SPD:

-reverse switch and harness
-neutral switch and harness
-speedometer sensor and harness
-exhaust support bracket (required some enlarging of the rear hole to fit)
-lower starter stud (JB Welded, then unscrewed for clutch fork pin install)

I also installed a new clutch and flywheel, while there was no tranny in the car.

PARTS FOR CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION

-ACT Streetlite flywheel
-Subaru OEM flywheel bolts (new)
-Bully 2004 STi clutch kit (Stage 2-Kevlar disc, stronger pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout/release bearing, alignment tool)
-Subaru OEM pressure plate bolts (new)
-Subaru OEM metal seal plate to replace plastic one on the passenger side of the block
-I left my rear main seal in place, it looked to be in good shape

I used the crossmember that was bolted to the 6 spd, it bolted right into the GF's mount points.

Once the 6 spd was mated to the engine (had help for the mating part, then it was back to working solo) I finished bolting up the crossmember, and installed the shift linkage. I used an OEM Subaru knob from the spec C RA-R. My stock driveshafts on the front slid right onto the STi studs with no modification.

Next was the driveshaft...

PARTS FOR TRANS TO STOCK 3.9 R160 DIFF:

-STi prop shaft, that came with the swap. (Bushings removed from the mounts)
-Subaru OEM companion flange bolts/nuts X 4 (new)
-drilled 4 new holes on companion flange to match STi shaft holes
-Misc washers for the shaft mounts
-Subaru OEM output shaft seal (where prop shaft goes into)

I had to convert my car from cable to hydraulic clutch...

PARTS TO CONVERT FROM CABLE TO HYDRAULIC CLUTCH:

-1998 Forester clutch and brake pedal assembly, complete with switches, and all bolts and nuts from donor car
-1998 Forester clutch master cylinder 5/8" (new)
-1998 Forester clutch master cylinder to slave hydraulic lines
-2001/2002 JDM STi clutch slave cylinder
-I also used the wrx style pedal pads from the JDM pedal assembly I had. They clip right on!

I had to modify my stock WRX leather shift boot to fit the STi shift linkage. I did this by turning the boot inside out, then removing the plastic form, then notching the leather so it could stretch over the STi reverse pull. It looks factory! (Pics to follow)

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS:

-This is the JDM 6 spd, so the ratios are a lot different than the USDM. at least, 4th and 5th are. The ratios are so short!!!!! 6th gear is shorter than I remember my old 5th being. The stock shifter sucks something fierce, Im gonna need to replace those bushings all the way through. Overall I like it, Only drove it for 15 mins so far, and I noticed a ticking sound under the handbrake. So Ill be checking prop shaft clearances today... I started this swap last week thursday night. I finished last night at 1 am. Not easy doing this on the garage floor...
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:08 PM   #53
subbyhatch18
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thats awesome that it went in without too much headache. Yeah, i had to replace my clutch not to long ago and could hold the 5-spd tranny up with one arm. But a buddy of mine just got a new 6spd non dccd and u deffinitly need another set of hands to fit it in.

let me know if you find the source of the ticking

and would you mind takin a pic of ur down pipe+header set up, i was thinking of going with a front mount IC system instead of trying to fit the top one in. But if the top mount would be more...practical...id like to see an example, if you could!

thanks,
Tim
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:46 PM   #54
cdnsigop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subbyhatch18 View Post
thats awesome that it went in without too much headache. Yeah, i had to replace my clutch not to long ago and could hold the 5-spd tranny up with one arm. But a buddy of mine just got a new 6spd non dccd and u deffinitly need another set of hands to fit it in.

let me know if you find the source of the ticking

and would you mind takin a pic of ur down pipe+header set up, i was thinking of going with a front mount IC system instead of trying to fit the top one in. But if the top mount would be more...practical...id like to see an example, if you could!

thanks,
Tim

I found the source of the ticking/rubbing. It was the STi prop shaft flange right beside the shaft mount. You need to use the mount bushings so that there is enough clearance between the roof of the trans tunnel and the flange that turns the STi prop shaft into a two piece design.

I filled the tranny using a 50/50 mix of Havoline non synthetic 80W90, and Castrol Syntec Sythetic 75W90. Works great, and was inexpensive!

Link: http://www.havoline.com/products/na/gearoils_01.html
Link: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7036193

While I was at the U pull it Wrecker picking the Forester clutch and brake pedal assembly, I also bought the tach equipped Forester cluster. I just finished setting it up now. I had the original Impreza cluster wiring harness, and the Forester cluster harness in front of me, and I simply removed the 3 plugs off the wires on the Impreza harness. Then I reinserted the wires, one by one, into the correct positions on each plug (A,B,C), to match the Forester harness wire locations. I was left with 3 unused wires, one for the clock, one for the A/T temp light, and one pink wire whose purpose is unknown. Tested it, works, great to have an easily readable Tach!
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:33 PM   #55
rustydave
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I have the same car, 2.2L 5 speed. I've wanted to turbo it for a while and i have been keeping up on what you are doing. Is the 2.5 exhaust the same as the 2.2? to be more specific from the heads to the turbo, and if not do i have to build my own? I'm really wondering how much of that kit do I need, and what all comes with it?
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:15 PM   #56
scoobdj01
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ive read the entire thread and very nice build and i believe the exhaust is the same setup as long as its dual port heads.
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:40 PM   #57
grizam303
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nice setup. i've got an open deck ej22 running 15psi on a vf23 on e85 and the clutch slips in 4th and 5th. not a stock transmission but i bought it at 190k miles anyway hah. i'm afraid of it spraying into pieces :l
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Old 05-18-2010, 04:17 PM   #58
cdnsigop
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Update:

Have been driving this daily since the beginning, boost at 14 psi in the midrange, and 9 psi at redline. No problems, just a massive torquey power band. STi trans working like a champ, standing up to drop clutch launches and everything else. Will light up all wheels on a 3500 rpm clutch drop, all the way through first. Looking for a few more PSI of boost at redline, but my homemade MBC is maxed out...

Im looking to replace the F'n loud ebay 3" inlet muffler with something same size, but quieter. Its not going to be a magnaflow...
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:12 PM   #59
Swede242
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very nice
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:34 PM   #60
thorne
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Gratz keep us updated.
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:24 PM   #61
blackturbo
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White

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Hows the car running? You need some videos!!
-andrew
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:03 PM   #62
subi400
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Green

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Nice set up so far!! I have a 1996 impreza outback 2.2 5 spd as well and have been thinking of doing a 10-12 psi supercharger kit along with a RA close ratio gear set. I still have lots to think about, but would like to do something in the future
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:32 PM   #63
Jefe009
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1998 Outbk STi SOLD!
Ugly white and gray

Default Sleeper of the year

...you got my vote. +100 for following the old guy and finagling his hood off him. It's enthusiasts like yourself which inspired my build. Keep it up!
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:09 AM   #64
cdnsigop
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Thanks for the votes of confidence LOL.

I gotta convince my wife to ride in the passenger seat and shoot the video....
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Old 06-21-2010, 06:43 AM   #65
pawnone
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ok I had to edit this I got the o2 sensor situated no check engine light now and it is just like an wrx now but I still havnt had a chance to go wide open throttle because the boost creeps up to around 10psi and I dont think I have the fuel for that so I plan on playing with the wastegate solenoid to lower boost for now because the MBC is all the way unscrewed and I still hit 10psi.

oh yahhh it was so worth the blood sweat and tears. a little tuning on boost targets and the whole car turbo kit and all was less than 3,000 and I had to change the heads out for dual ports. I think for the money it is vary vary worth it I got a strong turbo car for less than most people spent on a junker that has no get up and go....

oh and by the way the car is a 98 impreza outback sport(white for now). fully stock ej22e longblock & head gasket, stock WRX headers, aftermarket flex up pipe, aftermarket wrx downpipe I modded to fit things in the engine bay, aftermarket WRX catback, td04, 02 WRX FMIC oh and some junkyard phase 1 dual port heads I rebuilt for the build... I couldnt be more with it...

I will post pics and maybe a vid as soon as I can...

Last edited by pawnone; 06-21-2010 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:35 PM   #66
cdnsigop
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1998 Impreza L (RIP)

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Big update:

Added GM 3 bar map sensor to the Emanage blue to more accurately control ignition timing under boost. I used the female battery plug off an R/C Eflite Blade CX2. Plugged right into the emanage boost port.

How to:


Orange plug on the GM 3 bar map:


Had to create a voltage vs psi scale for the GM sensor as it does not correlate with the Greddy 4 bar sensor:



Converted from blow off to recirculate, using the oem WRX valve, and some creative plumbing. I used the intake pipe off an EJ25 DOHC, and an EJ22. I cut them down, clamped them together. Turbo inlet to the EJ intake pipes is done with a cut down section of rubber charge piping from a Volvo turbo:









Check valve for factory MAP sensor:



Cut out front bumper licence holder and support. Flows far more air to the radiator now. I see consistant 81 degree temps while cruising, and 85 or so after sustained beating on... All with the stock Rad..:





More to follow... Vid soon!

Last edited by cdnsigop; 06-25-2010 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:59 PM   #67
cdnsigop
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I thought I had maxed out my homebrew boost controller, so ended up getting a Turbosmart MBC. Turns out it was the weak wastegate actuator spring on the AVO turbo (5 psi). Got a throttle return spring, hooked it up, now base boost is ~8 psi sustained, ~11 psi spike. With the boost control maxed, that goes up to ~13 psi sustained, ~16.5 psi spike. Any more boost comes from adding a stronger spring, or using a totally different wastegate actuator:






Earlier this year, replaced the blown 5 speed with the STi V7 non DCCD 6 speed. Used the STi Spec C RA-R knob:




Also replaced the stock front seats with 2005 USDM STi seats. Works of art...Too bad the back seat wont fit!!!:




Remounted the Scangauge 2 from where it was on page 1 of this thread:




Installed 1998 Forester gauge clust to replace my tach less stocker(Fits like it was supposed to be there in the first place:




I increased the rev limit of the EJ22 using the Emanage blue mod tested by me. Rev limit was 6197 rpm, now 6500 rpm:

How to:


Rev limit increase tune(first version):



The rev limit increase is strictly for some more rev overhead. If I was to shift at the new fuel cut, the engine would be way past its peak torque at the next shift (with the JDM 6 speed). Overall, the biggest improvement came from (properly) recirculating the bov. No more stalling whatsoever, not even close. No more weird rich partial throttle situations, or lean ones either. I have been able to turn off the Emanage Blue's anti stall map altogether. One of the best parts to this mod is the increased boost response when shifting gears. When you get back on the gas, there is no delay before boost is built back up, compared to the blow to atmosphere set up I was using before... I was able to do the recirc mod without flipping the throttle body... Just required some careful modifications to the throttle linkage. The car feels like a factory turbo car, plain and simple.

Sorry for the delay in updates... Been busy, and the Wife is now 39 weeks pregnant

Last edited by cdnsigop; 06-26-2010 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:18 PM   #68
Kevin Thomas
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Very nice! Congrats! Looking good and glad it's working out for you. Better save a few $$$ for the baby.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:09 AM   #69
blackturbo
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Wow that's excellent! Keep it up!
-andrew
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Old 08-15-2010, 12:28 AM   #70
drumzzzzz
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Sedona Red

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Very informative and helpful build! I'm starting the same for a 97. Are those EJ22T heads and cams you used? With the WRX exhaust and flex uppipe did you clear the crossmember?
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Old 08-15-2010, 01:21 PM   #71
Smdavis27
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Satin White Pearl

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a stock bpv venting to atmosphere will make your car die, i accidently forgot to reconnect mine before, on my 09 wrx, and it died at a stop sign multiple times.
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:01 PM   #72
cdnsigop
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Lots done since my last update.

Sorted out my exhaust, got rid of the dirty loud ebay 3" axleback muffler, replaced with an 05 STi oem muffler. Ebay 3" catback axle flange was cut off and a 3"-2.25" reducer welded in its place, with the OEM axle flange welded to that. So the STi muffler bolts up to a stock STi location axle flange allowing any WRX/STi muffler fitment.

I installed an AEM water/Methanol injection kit with the tank. I removed the fittings and level sensor from the AEM tank, and transfered them stealth like to the oem windshield washer tank. The pump is mounted in the empty space under the battery. Nozzle comes in at an angle to my throttle body. Pump controller is mounted under the dash, accessable for easy tuning. Controller status LED is fitted into my forester cluster, using the TCS lamp position. Currently running AEM's biggest nozzle, using 50/50 water/methanol. Pump starts at 7 psi boost and reaches 100% duty cycle at 15 psi at the current setting.

Remember that GM style 3 Bar map sensor? Well it failed miserably, and its false readings were used by my Emanage Blue to make the car inexplicably run like utter and complete shiite. I ended up finding water in the vacuum line to the sensor, from the injection kit. I now use the 0-5v map sensor output from the AEM pump controller to provide the Emanage with a vacuum/boost reference.

Finally got around to upgrading the front brakes. I replaced the stock single piston calipers and little rotors for reman replacement 2004 WRX 11.5" rotors, 2 piston Tokico calipers, and new pads. I had originally planned to do this because a sticking front left caliper, but the problem still exists after install of the new calipers. The TIGHT fit between the WRX intercooler and GF firewall pinched the brake lines that run along the firewall a tad...





More to follow (engine build and shtuff)...
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:13 PM   #73
cdnsigop
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I also built an EJ25 block, using a 99 Legacy Outback Phase 2 block, EJ257 oem pistons, rings, and rods, clevite bearings, Cometic head gaskets, new gaskets throughout, 10mm oil pump shimmed, and stock shim over bucket EJ25D heads...



























More to follow...
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:25 PM   #74
cdnsigop
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Carry on...





















Got alotta mo, a whole lotta mo...
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:45 PM   #75
cdnsigop
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Gravy train continues:





















More!!
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