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Old 11-26-2010, 10:49 PM   #76
cdnsigop
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Here we go again...





















MORE!!! I hope you guys enjoy this EJ25D porn lol
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:32 PM   #77
cdnsigop
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Almost done lol...









Inspiration!!!











Water injection nozzle on the throttle body, fabbed oil feed line, visible in this pic...



.....Still a few left..

Last edited by cdnsigop; 11-26-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:50 PM   #78
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The beat goes on....

Homemade banjo bolt for oil feed line, second attempt.



Not bad, eh? Drill presses work wonders....



Oil drain fitting, to be fitted into boss on right side cylinder head...



How it all works together:



AVO Turbo:





Modded stock EJ22 motor mounts. Filled all the voids with DAP Roofing polyurethane:







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Old 11-27-2010, 12:20 AM   #79
cdnsigop
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Finish line in sight!

Hungry Impreza engine room...



6 speed ready to make sexy time with EJ25..



Buddy stage 2 clutch, ACT streetlite flywheel for STi/EJ257



Uses a Kevlar disc...



Ebay unequal length header for N/A EJ25:





Finished it at night...









PHEW>>> Thats the finished product. Enjoy. Once I figure out this DAMNED brake issue, I will enjoy it too!
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Old 11-27-2010, 04:36 PM   #80
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Very nice work man!!!
What happened to the EJ22? Did it finally blow, or did you just decide to gain the added TQ from more displacement?

Also, you used a Phase 2 EJ25 block with Phase 1 heads right? Or did you change the crank out in the EJ25D block so you could use STi rods (since STi rods have larger crank journals then EJ25D rods and won't work with stock 25D crank)? I am slightly confused on which part you changed. Also, did you use stock 257 pistons, or are they forged?

Very nice build though, this is going to be a rocket.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:06 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvdrt View Post
Very nice work man!!!
What happened to the EJ22? Did it finally blow, or did you just decide to gain the added TQ from more displacement?
The EJ22 started to burn a little oil under boost, but still ran great. I was building this engine as I was driving the ej22...

My original plan was EJ22 block, with the EJ25D heads. But I came across a deal I couldnt pass up. At my local u-pull it scrapyard, they had a 99 Legacy Outback with the phase 2 EJ25 and DOHC heads. It was missing some parts, like right side valvecover, timing covers, cam sensor and a bunch of other crap. Not to mention that the right side camgears were shattered, and #4 cylinder had 2 bent intake valves.

They gave me the heads and block for $75. I bought the ECU from that car and intake manifold from that car previously, for $60 total. So $135 for the entire longblock missing some parts. I ended up ordering the missing parts from a Subaru scrapyard in the UK, and got them to send me EJ20G metal cam gears to replace all 4 plastic EJ25D cam gears...

So, in the end, I am happy I got the whole EJ25 engine. It is stronger everywhere in the rev range, even with ~8.5:1 compression, and spools up that AVO turbo way way quicker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvdrt View Post
Also, you used a Phase 2 EJ25 block with Phase 1 heads right? Or did you change the crank out in the EJ25D block so you could use STi rods (since STi rods have larger crank journals then EJ25D rods and won't work with stock 25D crank)? I am slightly confused on which part you changed. Also, did you use stock 257 pistons, or are they forged?

Very nice build though, this is going to be a rocket.
Okay, Ill try to explain better. In 1999, the Forester, and the Impreza 2.5 RS got the full Phase 2 EJ25, the one with a phase 2 block (thrust bearing at #5, and 52mm rod journals), 10mm oil pump, and the SOHC heads. Everyone know that, nothing special here, lol.

The interesting thing in '99 was what they did with the Legacy Outback. That model got the new Phase 2 shortblock, (#5 thrust, 52mm rod journals) with the phase 1 EJ25D heads and intake manifold. Yes, thats right, a factory frankenstein motor, Phase 2 block, DOHC heads... Rated at the same 165 HP as the other EJ25's of the time.

Thats the gem I found in the yard, coupled to an auto transmission (Yes, I did transfer the timing belt guide from my manual trans EJ22). Even had a service receipt in the car, it had been owned by an old woman for the lions share of its life, and serviced as per Subaru's recommendations.

I used new OEM EJ257 rods (52mm rod journal) and new OEM EJ257 pistons (99.5mm, 2 x A bore, 2 x B bore, oem rings) that I scored through ebay, fresh from a factory EJ257 shortblock that had these parts replaced.

Thanks for the compliments!!

I need help on these brakes! Does a slightly pinched hardline on the right front cause the left front caliper to never fully release? Or is it the master cylinder?? AHHHHHHH. Making a mountain out of a molehill probably...
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:25 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnsigop View Post
I need help on these brakes! Does a slightly pinched hardline on the right front cause the left front caliper to never fully release? Or is it the master cylinder?? AHHHHHHH. Making a mountain out of a molehill probably...

Gotcha.

As far as the brakes go yes, a pinched brake line will cause the caliper to not release and bind. Another area to check is the pads and sliders themselves. Sometimes the pads get stuck on the sliders and although the piston releases the pads remain tight aginst the rotor.

A bad master cyl will not (usually) bind the brakes on just one side since the fronts are on their own fluid chamber and so are the rears. Typically when the master cyl goes bad you will have a bad pedal feel and the braking force will be a lot less.

Generally when brakes are binding it is usually 1 of 4 things:
A bad hose; which causes both pads to wear prematurely

Pads are siezed to the sliders; which can wear out any or both pads that may be siezed

Caliper is siezed internally; which usually causes the inboard pad to wear faster

The caliper slide pins are siezed;which generally wears out the front pad before the rear.

Hope that helps.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:08 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by iluvdrt View Post
Gotcha.

As far as the brakes go yes, a pinched brake line will cause the caliper to not release and bind. Another area to check is the pads and sliders themselves. Sometimes the pads get stuck on the sliders and although the piston releases the pads remain tight aginst the rotor.

A bad master cyl will not (usually) bind the brakes on just one side since the fronts are on their own fluid chamber and so are the rears. Typically when the master cyl goes bad you will have a bad pedal feel and the braking force will be a lot less.

Generally when brakes are binding it is usually 1 of 4 things:
A bad hose; which causes both pads to wear prematurely

Pads are siezed to the sliders; which can wear out any or both pads that may be siezed

Caliper is siezed internally; which usually causes the inboard pad to wear faster

The caliper slide pins are siezed;which generally wears out the front pad before the rear.

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the info man, I appreciate the help.. I just put up a thread in the brake forum so we will see what that generates.

I just replaced the calipers, pads, rotors with brand new 04 WRX parts. So its not that anything is seized, just the same problem existed with the old brake setup, and carried on to the new. Its gotta be the lines!!

My next thing to figure out is whether I should replace just the bent sections, using new line and unions, or go use the full lines that I have from a 1997 impreza wagon... Its very difficult to get the whole lines replaced without bending the new lines.
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Old 11-29-2010, 05:50 PM   #84
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Great Build man. I'm going to be getting a '93 legacy wagon 2.2 auto car for practically nothing. I plan on following this thread for info. I'm not worried about the mechanical stuff, however I have never self tuned a car before. Thats the only thing that concerns me. Keep it coming!
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:27 PM   #85
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Alright, a little update...

Brakes fixed!!!

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2094402

I painted them as well, using the Duplicolour caliper kit, in red. They look nice, Ill get some pics up soon. Car hauls ass in below freezing temps !
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #86
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Glad to hear brakes were fixed! Stainless lines FTW
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:46 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnsigop View Post
They look nice, Ill get some pics up soon. Car hauls ass in below freezing temps !
That's it?! You just going to show us all those beautiful build-up pics only to show us more pics and say that it hauls arse and no video? You suck! Great build-up! Glad to see you enjoying it.
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:48 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Thomas View Post
That's it?! You just going to show us all those beautiful build-up pics only to show us more pics and say that it hauls arse and no video? You suck! Great build-up! Glad to see you enjoying it.

Im sorry about the lack of video in this thread, lol... Snow is on the ground, and lots going on. Ill get something up, I also want to get a rough 1//4 mile time with the dynolicious software on the iphone...
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:20 PM   #89
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I have a couple questions if you dont mind... Does that unequal length header fit on a ej22 phase 1 as well? What up-pipe is that you got to fit onto the turbo from the header?

I'm mainly curious because I've slowly been collecting parts from my wrx to put onto my impreza and turbo it. I have an emanage just like you but I'm thinking about getting a custom harness made to be plug and play since I dont have a harness at all anyway. I've looked through a couple builds of turboing the na imprezas but I still wasnt sure exactly how they physically bolted the turbo onto the car. Oh and for a tmic set up would you be able to just route the piping into the na manifold and throttle body? Or would you have to get a different one? I faintly recall seeing people just route it into the na one since I believe its on top like a turbo ej would have been and they just remove the intake piping and make an intercooler go into it.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:11 PM   #90
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I have a couple questions if you dont mind... Does that unequal length header fit on a ej22 phase 1 as well? What up-pipe is that you got to fit onto the turbo from the header?
It fits on dual port (2 exhaust ports per head) EJ22's. I am using the uppipe, turbo, and partial downpipe of the AVO 2.5 RS turbo kit.

Quote:
I'm mainly curious because I've slowly been collecting parts from my wrx to put onto my impreza and turbo it. I have an emanage just like you but I'm thinking about getting a custom harness made to be plug and play since I dont have a harness at all anyway. I've looked through a couple builds of turboing the na imprezas but I still wasnt sure exactly how they physically bolted the turbo onto the car. Oh and for a tmic set up would you be able to just route the piping into the na manifold and throttle body? Or would you have to get a different one? I faintly recall seeing people just route it into the na one since I believe its on top like a turbo ej would have been and they just remove the intake piping and make an intercooler go into it.
Just like you said, remove the N/A intake piping and replace with a TMIC that fits between throttle body and firewall. I have used only N/A intake manifolds on both my EJ22E, and my EJ25D.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:19 PM   #91
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Time for another update.. Does this count as a build journal now???

Painted front 04 WRX calipers:





The big thing is my new TMIC. I got an 06 WRX TMIC to replace my 04 WRX TMIC in the mail today. The new one fits FAR better, does not touch, rub, or anything on the firewall. Plus, it makes use of the full width of the scoop. I also like the composite endtanks, which dont heatsoak nearly as bad as the aluminum 04 TMIC. I was able to transfer all my plumbing and bypass valve over, just needed to trim my Y-pipe and elbow.









My test drive after the intercooler switch showed no perceptible performance change, although it was nice to no longer hear it rubbing...

It sucks working on cars in below freezing temps!!!!!!

Last edited by cdnsigop; 12-09-2010 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 12-08-2010, 11:43 PM   #92
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ok thanks! I'm pretty sure the sohc phase 1 is a dual port exhaust so I can get that header out of curiosity is that avo up-pipe similar to a wrx up pipe or like an aftermarket flex wrx up pipe?
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:13 AM   #93
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ok thanks! I'm pretty sure the sohc phase 1 is a dual port exhaust so I can get that header out of curiosity is that avo up-pipe similar to a wrx up pipe or like an aftermarket flex wrx up pipe?
The N/A turbo kit uppipes are TOTALLY different than WRX uppipes.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:26 AM   #94
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^ +1

The wrx or turbo style up pipes come from a different header altogether. It wraps around the front of the motor and then goes straight back to the turbo. Someone had a really nice picture that illustrated that perfectly... even with searching I can't find it anymore.

The N/A headers go kind of around the sides of the motor and meet at the back. Which I might add that finding such up pipes for the N/A header is near impossible and $$$$$. It is along the same lines as finding a single port header for the EJ22 single port heads.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:53 AM   #95
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ah i see, its strange how even with stalking some of the na turbo builds i cant get this information. I started feeling like it must be some common sense stuff and I was just really dumb. I guess logically my next question is, how are people with the ej18,ej22, or ej25 doing a turbo build? More specifically how are they physically attaching lets say a stock subaru turbo of some sort to the engine? Obviously a stock wrx tbe is going to fit to say a td04 but I've always been somewhat confused and curious about the up pipe set up. My guess was always that they used the stock exhaust headers and got some custom fab exhaust work to route an up pipe with the correct bolt pattern to about what a stock wrx's turbo location would be.


-Sorry for threadjacking OP it was just yours was one of the first threads I've seen with some good pictures of the block with clear pictures of the exhaust and turbo placement. BTW how is tuning with the emanage going? I'm told it can be rather finicky and difficult at times. This is literally the dream thread of pictures I've been waiting for in the na fi section for so long.
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:04 AM   #96
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Yulri- You aren't dumb, it is hard to find all this stuff put into one place. I've been planning my build for well over a year, maybe even a year and a half. It just takes that long to find all the info you need. And to save up the funds.

As for how the n/a build to turbos do it, you either have to notch your engine crossmember or buy a turbo legacy or wrx cross member. Or you could do what I am going to do and modify an up pipe from a wrx to fit around yours. Reason being is that the up pipe off of the turbo cars hits our crossmember and theirs obviously has a groove for it to pass through. That is a short answer and there is consequences for each method. Search for something like 'turbo crossmember' or 'notched crossmember'. Good luck!
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:57 AM   #97
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Is it possible to buy the up/downpipes through the vendor or only the full kit? I'd like to do this as a budget build instead of paying out the ear.

Edit: didn't see this page. Has anyone contacted AVO with this question? Also, what is the comparability of crossmembers? Like I mentioned before, i have a '99 legacy outback and wasn't sure of fitment...

Last edited by drewmob; 12-09-2010 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:13 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagular1785 View Post
Yulri- You aren't dumb, it is hard to find all this stuff put into one place. I've been planning my build for well over a year, maybe even a year and a half. It just takes that long to find all the info you need. And to save up the funds.

As for how the n/a build to turbos do it, you either have to notch your engine crossmember or buy a turbo legacy or wrx cross member. Or you could do what I am going to do and modify an up pipe from a wrx to fit around yours. Reason being is that the up pipe off of the turbo cars hits our crossmember and theirs obviously has a groove for it to pass through. That is a short answer and there is consequences for each method. Search for something like 'turbo crossmember' or 'notched crossmember'. Good luck!
What he said. Guys notch their crossmember for uppipe clearance, than use the WRX/STi exhaust manifold, WRX/STi uppipe, WRX/STi turbo, WRX/STi downpipe, and whatever wrx/STi exhaust they want. And of course, a WRX/STi water pump to clear the exhaust manifold. Thats an inexpensive, and reliable way to do it, IF you have dual port heads. My original engine had single ports, and when I was looking for a turbo, I found a WRX TD04 for $100. My intent was to buy a custom uppipe, or have one made. When I went to go see the turbo, it actually was the AVO uppipe, AVO Turbo, and partial AVO downpipe from the AVO 2.5RS kit. All for $100! So thats how I scored that.

So my current set up uses EJ25 Unequal length headers, to the above setup, to a downpipe discharge at the factory WRX cat inlet location. And a 2004 WRX cat section. After that, any WRX/STi catback bolts on.
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:06 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewmob View Post
Is it possible to buy the up/downpipes through the vendor or only the full kit? I'd like to do this as a budget build instead of paying out the ear.

Edit: didn't see this page. Has anyone contacted AVO with this question? Also, what is the comparability of crossmembers? Like I mentioned before, i have a '99 legacy outback and wasn't sure of fitment...
If you get a turbo legacy, I think 90-94, crossmember it is a direct bolt on (98% sure). If you can find one of those, that is the best option on this route. If you swap a wrx crossmember, it messes your alignment up and you have to do a few things to correct this. I personally would only do this if I got a full wrx swap with the different p/s pump and rack. It is a headache.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:25 AM   #100
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Update:

My AEM water /methanol pump controller had been acting up for the past week or so, spraying randomly, and not spraying at all. Sent it to AEM for a warranty replacement.
Judging by all the forum threads on AEM, Im not the only one with a failed controller!!! Hopefully AEM has revised the control unit and sends me a new one!

I installed a new ATP oil restrictor on my AVO turbo, to quell some burning oil issues in the turbo. It looks like my shimmed 10mm pump was producing a little too much pressure at high rpm for the ball bearing CHRA's tastes! Problem solved...

I also installed a new ATP 11 psi wastegate actuator. This replaces the 4-6 psi unit that came with the AVO turbo. Now, with my boost controller on its lowest setting, I see a 16 psi spike in the midrange, and approx 11-12 psi at redline. I still would like to flatten out that boost curve, but the midrange shove is monstrous lol...

Started to take a new approach with the ignition timing. I see around 24 degrees in the midrange at WOT, increasing to 38 degrees at redline!!!!!!! So the water/meth must have been saving my ass. I started pulling 10 degrees in the midrange at WOT, and 12 degrees by redline at WOT. On 91 Shell V Power, no corn!!! I know there is power left on the table, but we're talking stock EJ257 pistons, and an open deck phase 2 EJ25 block. I dont want DET!!!
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