Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday April 18, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Newbies & FAQs

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-17-2009, 08:24 AM   #1
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default Idle problem after Tial Q Bov Install

well i got my tial Q bov welded on last night and i seem to be having a slight idle problem now...
the car pulls 19in/hg at idle (then again that's according to a prosport boost gauge) which according to tial means i should use the 10psi spring.

the problem is that as i roll up to stop lights the car will sometimes stall out. Only sometimes though... other times the rpms go slightly lower than it should then bounce back up and recover to a normal idle.

also it seems more likely to stall out if i heel-toe up to the light rather than just coast in neutral.

the valve appears to be closed at idle (i can see just a little of the o-ring) and it seems to blow-off as it should between shifts... i did notice this morning that after very low amounts of throttle and then a shift it will not quite blow-off but make kind of a "chufchchchc" sound which i guess is compressor surge.

so what do u guys think?

oh i also had a maf flange welded on too since I'm going to a blow-thru setup soon so maybe the block-off plate is leaking? or maybe the maf itself is leaking since i took it off.


Putting a washer in worked perfectly if anyone else has this same problem.

thanks for the help.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by fl4tsc; 12-18-2009 at 12:36 PM.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:30 AM   #2
CooperS431
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 52007
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Winchester, MA
Vehicle:
2004 STI
WRB

Default

Really? Another one of these threads? Get rid of the tial and put the stock bpv back on... if it is a vent to atmosphere bov it can cause the maf scaling to be way off in between shifts and at idle and can cause the car to stall. The maf already accounts for the air being recirculated by the bpv, and when you run a vent to air it causes a rich environment.
CooperS431 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:33 AM   #3
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

yes thanks i understand the issues bovs can cause which aren't bad if the bov is set up properly. and if you missed the part where i said i'm going to a blow-thru soon, i am, which will completely eliminate any problems a vta bov can cause.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:35 AM   #4
CooperS431
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 52007
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Winchester, MA
Vehicle:
2004 STI
WRB

Default

Yes you are going to a blow through soon, but the problems you are having now are because of the bov.
CooperS431 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:37 AM   #5
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

ya if it was a piece of **** bov then sure your theory would make sense but a well setup bov like the tial (that doesn't leak) has no problem running on a draw thru setup without stalling.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:41 AM   #6
RayN
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 135789
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2005 STi
CGM

Default

you might need a harder spring.. and make sure that the seal between the bov and flange is good.. make sure no leaks are present everywhere else. also the lil chuckle you hear can be surge or just the bov bouncing off the spring. even if it was surge, you are not running enough boost when it just chuckles to do any damage. only time to be conserned with surge is when you cant vent at full boost.
RayN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:42 AM   #7
ADAS1223
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 159853
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: pew pew pew pew
Vehicle:
2005 pew pew
pew pew pew pew

Default

Make it tighter! should only open at higher psi's, not just casual shifting
ADAS1223 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:47 AM   #8
under0athh51189
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 193959
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Vehicle:
2001 Lexus IS300
05 Wrx AW 18x9.5 WFC#295

Default

the occasional stalling and rpms that drop way down and bounce back up is completely normal with a vta bov. its going to do it until you go resurculating. nothing to worry about just annoying
under0athh51189 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:53 AM   #9
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADAS1223 View Post
Make it tighter! should only open at higher psi's, not just casual shifting
that's what i was thinking but i just looked at some old logs and my idle is right around -8.7psi which is -17.7inHg which should be perfect for the 10psi spring since tial says to use the 10psi for idles between -16 and -19inhg.

idk I'm starting to think there's a leak somewhere else or the seal is bad between the bov and flange.

but then again there are no problems i can see under boost.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 08:55 AM   #10
RayN
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 135789
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2005 STi
CGM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by under0athh51189 View Post
the occasional stalling and rpms that drop way down and bounce back up is completely normal with a vta bov. its going to do it until you go resurculating. nothing to worry about just annoying


^ wrong. a properly set up VTA BOV will not stall

you guys need to read this so that you can properly give out the right information
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1602235
RayN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:03 AM   #11
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayN View Post
^ wrong. a properly set up VTA BOV will not stall

you guys need to read this so that you can properly give out the right information
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1602235
thank you!! finally someone gets it!

hopefully davenow/defiant will see this soon and give me some tips since he's one of the few that actually understands the car shouldn't stall.

i mean **** i used to run a gfb bov which are some of the worst for leaking and didn't stall and the tial is one of the best so it definitely shouldn't stall.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:09 AM   #12
RayN
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 135789
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2005 STi
CGM

Default

as i said in my previous post. you may have to add the 11 lbs spring. and i think -17 may be a lil high, i think you want to be around -20. so you may have a leak regardless and it might not be caused by the bov.
RayN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:12 AM   #13
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

ya my idle was iffy before but i just thought it was a tuning issue and maybe a small leak in the tgv to head gasket. i'm taking the intake mani off to get it ported and to replace the gaskets to maybe that will fix it.

also I'm going to lube the o-ring for the maf sensor and maf block off (since they didn't seem to go in so great) when i get home and see if that helps.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:14 AM   #14
stlscoobydoo
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 221261
Join Date: Aug 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: st. louis
Vehicle:
2004 sti
wrb

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tallterror View Post
well i got my tial Q bov welded on last night and i seem to be having a slight idle problem now...
the car pulls 19in/hg at idle (then again that's according to a prosport boost gauge) which according to tial means i should use the 10psi spring.

the problem is that as i roll up to stop lights the car will sometimes stall out. Only sometimes though... other times the rpms go slightly lower than it should then bounce back up and recover to a normal idle.

also it seems more likely to stall out if i heel-toe up to the light rather than just coast in neutral.

the valve appears to be closed at idle (i can see just a little of the o-ring) and it seems to blow-off as it should between shifts... i did notice this morning that after very low amounts of throttle and then a shift it will not quite blow-off but make kind of a "chufchchchc" sound which i guess is compressor surge.

so what do u guys think?

oh i also had a maf flange welded on too since I'm going to a blow-thru setup soon so maybe the block-off plate is leaking? or maybe the maf itself is leaking since i took it off.
you might need to get the bov reshimmed also what size is the bov that you up on there?
stlscoobydoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:15 AM   #15
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stlscoobydoo View Post
you might need to get the bov reshimmed also what size is the bov that you up on there?
don't know what reshimmed is but the bov is brand new.

what do you mean size? it's the Tial Q...
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:25 AM   #16
RayN
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 135789
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2005 STi
CGM

Default

the Q is a 50 mm
RayN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:27 AM   #17
Turn in Concepts
NASIOC Vendor
 
Member#: 93646
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
Many Track Records
Let us help you go fast!

Default

When we played with one we ran into a problem of the vac being so high that it opened at idle. Go with a stiffer spring.
Turn in Concepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 09:32 AM   #18
RayN
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 135789
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2005 STi
CGM

Default

you might also want to consider making the DIY intake pressure tester.. should be able to find your leak easy that way
RayN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 10:39 AM   #19
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

you have a link to that pressure tester?
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 05:15 PM   #20
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

so right now it seems the best answer is get a stiffer spring...

any other suggestions?

Dave this is where you come in and make us all look like fools...

oh and TiC what BOV do you guys run instead of the Tial? just curious what you've found to work since you guys are pretty damn successful.

Last edited by fl4tsc; 12-17-2009 at 05:24 PM.
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 05:20 PM   #21
Gfunk720
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 42549
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: You can find me in the 203
Vehicle:
E92 BMW M3 Wht/Blk
2011 VW TDI Wagon

Default

I ran the 50mm Q with a the -21hg spring(11 or 12lb spring IIRC), and it ran fine at idle and did not stall out.

It did surge like a mofo though
Gfunk720 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 05:24 PM   #22
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

what do you mean surge?

aren't the 50mm and the Q 2 different bovs.
the 50mm being the old design and the Q being the new design?
i guess they are both 50mm though. whatever
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 05:26 PM   #23
Gfunk720
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 42549
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: You can find me in the 203
Vehicle:
E92 BMW M3 Wht/Blk
2011 VW TDI Wagon

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tallterror View Post
what do you mean surge?

aren't the 50mm and the Q 2 different bovs.
the 50mm being the old design and the Q being the new design?
i guess they are both 50mm though. whatever
There is the Alpha Q as well. But yes, the new designed 50mm...

Just like you said, the chachachacha sound coming from the turbo region of the car. I only had it on for like 2 miles of driving, but my car definetely didn't like it too much
Gfunk720 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 05:31 PM   #24
quadtard
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 104206
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Springfield, TN
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
Tunnel Ram Gray

Default

They are both based of the same concept design, the Q just flows more now. If you can see o-ring at idle, then it is leaking due to the vacuum pressure pulling more than the spring can hold. Put a shim in there, or a stiffer spring. Done/
quadtard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2009, 06:10 PM   #25
fl4tsc
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 177247
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Hilton Head and Clemson, SC
Vehicle:
2005 WRB WRX
16GXT + 44mm EWG = wahhh!

Default

alright well I'm about to order a new spring but I've got one more question..
is there any way to know the 11psi spring will be enough?
fl4tsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
idle problem after replace radiator??? sum0325 Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 4 12-12-2009 02:19 PM
Idle Problems after Spec-c intake manifold install wrxwagon253 North West Impreza Club Forum -- NWIC 16 11-03-2007 04:49 PM
massive idle problem after violent axle brake?? imprezaRS420 Legacy Forum 3 12-27-2006 10:57 PM
Idle problem after blowing SBF5 Annoying Eric Normally Aspirated Powertrain 3 09-07-2005 08:28 AM
Idle problem after ECU reset Spectre23 Technical Forum Archive 1 05-19-2000 12:42 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.