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Old 01-01-2010, 11:02 AM   #1
StiDreams
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Default OT Climbers Check In (2010)

Last year was yet another excellent year for me. There was some hanging on lead but I was at the limits on much of it. There was definite a big improvement in my climbing and we got on some really cool stuff. Below is a synopsis of how the year went.

Mt. St. Helena (local sport crag), March 7:

Black Hole Sun (.10d)
ArÍte (.10b) *
Wayneís World (.10c) * a couple of hangs
Rampage (.10c) *

Sugarloaf (Kyburz, CA), March 28:

Dominion (.10a) *
The Fracture (.10d) a couple of hangs
Fingerlocks (.10b) *
Make That Move Now Baby (.10c) *

Berkley with Tom, April 4:

Cragmont and Rimlar TR

Yosemite Valley for FOBIAD (five open books in a day), May 16:

Munginella (.6) *
Commitment (.9) *
The Surprise (.10c), awesome climb
Caverns (.8)
The Hanging Teeth (.8)
Reedís Direct (.10a) a couple of hangs

Yosemite Valley, June 13:

CPOF (.9)

Yosemite Valley, June 24:

Half Dome Regular Route .9/A0, bailed after pitch 5
Jam Crack (.9) *
Bummer (.10b) TR *
Lazy Bum (.10d) TR *
Lemon (.9)
Generator (.10c OW) TR many hangs
Bishop Terrace (.7) *
Church Bowl Tree (.10b)

Mt. Whitney, July 19:

Mt. Whitney East Buttress (.8)
Mt. Russellís Fishhook ArÍte (.9)
Mt. Russellís Mithral Dihedral (.10a)
Mt. Russellís Star Trekin (.10b)

Yosemite, August 22:

Serenity Crack (.10d) one hang
Sons of Yesterday (.10a)

Tuolumne and Incredible Hulk, September 11:

OZ (.10d) a couple of hangs
Gram Traverse (.10d) a few hangs
Red Dihedral (.10b) a few hangs

Mt. Conness, September 26:

Harding route (.10c OW) many hangs on pitch 4.

Yosemite, October 17:

Catchy (.10d) one hang
Knuckleheads (.10b)
Knob Job (.10b)
New Diversion (.10a)
Sherrieís Crack (.10c)

Sugarloaf, October 31:

The Fracture (.10d)
Taurus (.11b) TR one hang
Pinch a Loaf (.11c) TR DNF

Yosemite, November 13:

Lunatic Fringe (.10c) DNF, clean follow
Old Five Ten (.10d), one hang on follow
Stone Groove (.10b) one hang
Angry Natives, Angry Lunatic Variation (.10a)

Sugarloaf, December 19:

The Fracture (.10d), finally got the redpoint
Taurus (.11b), hung once on TR all three tries
Pinch a Loaf (.11c) hung a couple of times but finished.
Finger Locks (.10b) TR clean and strong

* = previously attempted or done

The next year is going to be good. I don't have a wish list yet but we're definitely going to give Halfdome another go. And weíre definitely going back out to Whitney. I would love to do the East Face of Whitney. We're definitely going to get on Western Front on Russell. And hopefully were strong enough to get on the Harding Route on Keeler Needle.

I'm looking forward to the coming season and I hope to hear about all of you-alls trip.


Wish List

I know this list is over the top but it is a "wish list". It's way more climbs than I have time for and some of it is way more climb than I have talent for. I'm a bit ambitious. For me if I don't set the bar high I don't work hard enought to get the stuff I know I can get. I hope everybody gets what they want for this season. Climb hard, take risks but try to be safe.

Mt Whitney Region:

Whitney: East Face (.6)
Russell: Western Front (.10c)
Keeler Needle: Harding Route (.10c OW crux)

Yosemite Valley:

Arch Rock: Entrance Exam (.9)
Arch Rock: Midterm (.10b)
Arch Rock: Gripper (.10b)
Cookie Cliff: Catchy (.10d)
Cookie Cliff: Catchy Corner (.11a)
Cookie Cliff: Outer Limits (.10c)
Cookie Cliff: Meat Grinder (.10c OW)
Cookie Cliff: Crack-a-Go-Go (.11c) for the future
Cookie Cliff: Beverlyís Tower (.10b)
Cookie Cliff: Waverly Wafer (.10c)
Cookie Cliff: Wheat Thin (10c)
Cookie Cliff: Butterfingers (.11a) TR
Half Dome: Regular Northwest Face (.9 A2)
Half Dome: Snake Dike (.7)
Higher Cathedral: Northeast Buttress (.9)
Royal Arches Area: Serenity Crack (.10d) repeat
Royal Arches Area: Sons of Yesterday (.10a) repeat
North Dome: South Face (.8)
Reedís Pinnacle: Lunatic Fringe (.10c) Beyond the Fringe (.10b), Beyond Lunacy (.10c/A0 or 11c).

Tuolumne:

Harlequin Dome: Hoodwink (.10a)
Harlequin Dome: By Hook or by Crook (.11b)
Mountaineers Dome: American Wet Dream (.10b)
Phobos/Diemos Cliff: Phobos (.9)
Phobos/Diemos Cliff: Diemos (.9)
Low Profile Dome: Darthvaderís Revenge (.10a OW)
Low Profile Dome: Galenís Crack (.10c OW TR)
Low Profile Dome: ****hooks (.10b)
Daff Dome: Cooke Book (.10a) unfinished business
Daff Dome: Bombs Over Tokyo (.10c first pitch)
East Cottage Dome: Lots of short hard stuff
Canopy Dome: Lots of short hard stuff
Lembert Dome: Direct Northwest Face (.10b)
Eichorn Pinnacle: Direct (.10b) repeat
Matthes Crest: Traverse (.7) unfinished business
Fairview Dome: Lucky Streaks (.10d)
Fairview Dome: The Great Pumpkin (.8 R)
Drug Dome: Oz (.10d) to Gram Traverse (.10d) repeat in better style
Mariuolumne Dome: Hobbit Book (.7R)
Pywiack Dome: Aqua Knobby (.9 R)
Tenaya Peak: Northwest Buttress (.5)
Mt Conness: West Ridge (.7)
Dana Plateau: Third Pillar (.10b)

Calaveras: (more than we can manage in one trip)

Hammer Dome: Wings and Sings (.7)
Hammer Dome: Gemini (.8)
Hammer Dome: Pressure Wave (.10b)
Hammer Dome: Gemini Variation (.10c)
Hammer Dome: Free Wheeliní (.10c)
Hammer Dome: Smoke Screen (.10c)
Hammer Dome: Squeaks of Gold (.11a)
Calaveras Dome: Sands of Time (.9)
Calaveras Dome: Beacon to Mars (.10d R)
Calaveras Dome: Thunderbolt (.10b)
Calaveras Dome: War of the Worlds (.10c)
Calaveras Dome: Schizophrenic Dike (.10c)
Calaveras Dome: Silk Road (.11b) listing for the future

Needles: (more than we can manage in one trip)

Charlatan Needle: Spooky (.9)
Charlatan Needle: Fancy Free (.10b)
Sorcererís Apprentice: Love Potion #9 (.10b)
Sorcererís Apprentice: Broomsticks (.10b)
The Sorcerer: Slight of Hand (.10b)
The Sorcerer: Thin Ice (.10b)
The Warlock: The Howling (.10a)
Voodoo Dome: White Punks on Dope (.8)
Witch: Gorilla Warfare (.10d)
Witch: Igor Unchained (.9)
Witch: Airy Interlude (.10a)
Witch: Spook Book (.10d)
Witch: The Pit and The Pendulum (.10d)
Wizard Needle: Yellow Brick Road (.9)

Temple Crag:

Dark Star (.10b)
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Last edited by StiDreams; 01-18-2010 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:26 PM   #2
re92
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You're crazy.

I received the Climb Axe gear that I mentioned in the other thread (http://www.climbaxe.com/sportclimbin...wsandrope.aspx) - I also bought a couple of slings and carabiners, and a rope bag.

I don't like being cold, so I'm planning to climb indoors 2 times a week until spring. Once it gets warmer, I'll be hitting up Rumney a few times. We'll see how it goes.

Raj
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:46 PM   #3
OriginalSin
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Last Year

Montana Ice Climbing
-The dribbles
-Cleos Needle
-California Ice

Alaska
- 11,300

Washington
- Ranier Emmons Glacier

Utah
- Ancient Art
- Casltelon Tower
- Broken Arrow Spire

NC
- bunch of random stuff

this year hould be great

going to try and get back up to AK, and out to Zion or back out to Jackson
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:49 PM   #4
left footed whooten
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Wish list:
1. Successful knee surgery recovery
2. Mt Clarence King, ramp route
3. Mt Carl Heller, east ridge
4. Mt Ritter and Banner Peak in a day
5. Mt Sill, Swiss Arete
6. Moar Palisades in general
7. Mt Russell, everything
8. Lone Pine Peak, the 5.4 is looong
9. Mt Langley, Mt Muir trip with golden trout fishing mixed in.
10. Darkstar
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Old 01-16-2010, 08:43 PM   #5
StiDreams
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Went to the St. Helena (local crags) just to get in some sporty work. We led all the climbs we did today before but it was just something to do to get out on the rock. We tried to TR a .12c and got about two moves off the ground.

Arete (.10b)
Rampage (.10c)
Silverado Squaters (.10b)
Kidnapped (.10c)

I still haven't put a complete wish list yet. I'll update when I do.

Last edited by StiDreams; 01-17-2010 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:19 AM   #6
OriginalSin
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Got back from Bozeman - Heres what we climbed

Day 1 - Cleopatras Needle WI5

This never got any easier. I bailed on it last year because I was too tired, and did it first this year. The crux is right off the second pitch and you swing out on the pillar on the left side. no camera's, so i borrowed tihs photo. we sent it though in three pitches.



Day 2 - Hydromonster WI5

This was down in cooke city. Super hard, and i forgot my camera again, but had my phone. There should be some decent pics on a disposable soon though. i got this video rapping the 2nd pitch and one photo. the first little pitch was super chandelier, and shattering with every swing. Nate took a huge peice of ice to the chest. Coming out of the cave in the middle of the 2nd pitch everything broke out from under me and left me on my back with one ice tool hanging about 10ft up. so....pretty damn scary




Day 3 - Magically Delicious MI4 and Good Looking One WI5

Magically Delicious was a rad mixed dry tooling with some ice short climb. I will get pics later. Super fun. and Good Looking One was more of a hook fest, single pitch. Here's some video of it.

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Old 01-18-2010, 12:24 PM   #7
StiDreams
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Nice OS. WI5 and MI4 is serious stuff.

I updated my wish list above and I'm going to do my best to get half.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:16 PM   #8
OriginalSin
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here are some pics off the disposable of hydromonster













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Old 01-18-2010, 01:30 PM   #9
OriginalSin
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:56 PM   #10
I25
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Checking in as ordered.

I've been climbing for about a year now, and doing .8's and .9's. I just switched over to bouldering now working on v2s and dynos.
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:16 PM   #11
TarmacRally
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and the rug giveth away

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Checking in.

Although, I dont think of myself as a real climber. Ive only been doing the indoor bouldering for almost a year now.

Plan to hit some of the local outdoor bouldering spots this summer.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:57 PM   #12
Tattooed 1
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Hey all! I am sorry but I don't own a Subaru. I ride in one a bunch. I am STIDreams' climbing partner. I thought I should join just to keep him honest. He does a pretty good job of reporting our adventures but I may throw something in from time to time. Hey Left Footed you are one of my heros. I wish I could drink as hard as you and still climb! Cheers all and go big or go home.
Tim
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:24 PM   #13
OriginalSin
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Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (Linux; U; Android 2.0.1; en-us; Droid Build/ESD56) AppleWebKit/530.17 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/4.0 Mobile Safari/530.17)

Cool. Subarus are def optional
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:20 PM   #14
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Started climbing last year (in Kansas of all places)... so all but one has been TR but I'm learning and working my way up.

I'm buying draws this year for sport climbing outdoors and need to learn to build anchors next. Unluckily for me the college gym nearby is only 24' up, no sport climbing to learn on.

Climbing trips last year:

Wichita Mountains, OK
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR
Mt. St. Helens, WA
New River Gorge, WV (first sport climbing!)

This year I'm looking forward to a lot more sport/lead climbing and hopefully some multi-pitch at Seneca Rocks.

Here's a few pics.

Wichita Mountains (Zoo Wall)


HCR


St. Helens Trip


The New:
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:05 PM   #15
StiDreams
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Just booked my Whitney dates. We're going out on July 21 and coming out on July 25. It's time to start working hard and whip this old body into real climbing shape. I'm excited.



For those that are thinking about going out on the North fork Lone Pine Creek, the window for reservation is six months in advance. There are only ten people allowed out on that trail per day. You need to call on the very first day that the reservations are taken for the date you want or you might not get it. The permit reservation line opens at 8:30 AM PCT (760-873-2483).

They do hold 40% of the slots for walk in. And you can also get cancelled reservations on the day of. If you can wait an extra day to go out you usually can get permits for the next day if you walk in.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:07 PM   #16
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nice. you're psyched.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:22 PM   #17
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I'm so psyched and a bit scared. I can't wait. This is going to be a push it to the limits kind of trip.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:23 PM   #18
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Psyched for everyone who's climbing, holy moly on the MT farmed ice, that ****s huge. People get all pissy about farming ice here, no ones done it in years. Looks like a fun ass trip.

Stoked for you on Whitney, which route this time? Going to sack up for Harding on Keeler?

Stupid head cold 2 days before surgery last week, bumped it to 1/26. Getting close. I dont care if Im a cripple, I'm buying a pack and crampons anyway. I am hoping to be able to hike and climb moderately by may, early season peaks again if all goes well.

I'll have plenty of time to work on the wish list, maybe Ill post pics of my High Sierra book before surgery and again in april. Probably will be mashed.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:32 PM   #19
StiDreams
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Yes. We're going to give the Harding Route a go. We'll do the East Face on Whitney on day one for the warm-up. Then it's onto Western Front on Russell for day two. Then The Harding Route on the last climbing day.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:42 PM   #20
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Checking in. Finally getting back into the gym after taking more time off than I like to admit. Hoping to hit Crow Hill and Rumney this summer for some TR and sport climbing. You trad and ice climbers are out of your damn minds!
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:33 PM   #21
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After a little over a month since I've started bouldering, I finished my first v3 today.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:42 PM   #22
OriginalSin
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congrats!
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin View Post
congrats!
Thanks man!
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:16 AM   #24
re92
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I'm thinking of getting new shoes. Does any place other than REI have a decent selection? I wear 7.5, which I think is 40 euro. I'll swing by REI tomorrow, but I am not sure how many shoes they will have in that size.

The shoe I'm using currently is this one:

http://www.rei.com/product/716244

Even though I do fine with them, the reviews imply they're noob shoes. They're the only shoes I have ever owned, and my climbing friends tell me they're the RE92's of shoes. I figure it's time to get some RA1 equivalent.

Raj
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:12 PM   #25
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installed the metolius simulator in my office today *thumbsup*
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