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Old 01-03-2010, 05:52 PM   #1
18aspenSTi
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Default Only 2-3 degrees AVCS advance during log???

Recently my 05 STi has become noticeably laggier. It has a 7cm td05 20g, ewg, big TMIC, and BC 272s. I was able to hit full boost(~21 psi) in the 3300 range, now it seems to hit around 4k. The car threw the p0021 code for cam advance, so i replaced the driver's side ocv with a brand new one, but that has not cured the issue and the light comes back on after maybe 40-100 mi. of drving after being cleared. I tried logging to see if AVCS was active at all, and what I found was only 2-3 degrees of Intake VVT Advance Angle on both left and right banks. The duty cycle for both OCVs was the same, at 57%. Does anyone have any clue as to what may be causing AVCS to work, but not completely??
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:08 PM   #2
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Neutral position switch malfunction? AVCS is deactivated in neutral. When my NPS malfunctioned AVCS would cut out. IIRC it would drop to 2-3 degrees. Its worth looking at (its easy to log) but it sounds like you might have a different problem based upon the CEL the car threw.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:35 PM   #3
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I logged the NPS yesterday. It read 0 while in gear and 1 when in neutral. Is that correct for an 05 STi? I read somewhere about switches being different between years, but cannot find it now.

Last edited by 18aspenSTi; 01-04-2010 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:47 PM   #4
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Since it is switching, I don't believe it is malfunctioning. The 6 speed is inverted from the 5 speed. I can't remember which value corresponds to which position.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:31 AM   #5
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Partially plugged inline filters.

The AVCS code you posted P0021 is (not to sound dramatic) usually a code I see on a motor that is about to lose a bearing (or is and part of it is caught in the filters). Generally the order is turbo failure, replacement, p0021 code then rod bearing failure.

If you have not removed or cleaned the inline filters it is likely time to do this. The drivers side is far more difficult than the passanger side as it is behind the rear timing belt cover. If the motor has not had an oil change in a long while or went low on oil these are things that preclude what you are describing.

Good luck.

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Old 01-04-2010, 05:16 AM   #6
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Thanks for the reply. the motor has just under 8,000 mi on it now, and is a stg 1 raw shortblock, the oil was last changed less than 1500 mi. ago. is the filter you are talking about the one in the banjo bolt that is for the oil line connected to the OCV housing? If so, I have checked mine and it was already removed. The passenger side banjo bolt had a restrictor pin hole on the bottom, so i'm not sure how a filter would fit on that side. Is that the correct bolt? If at all relevant, tonight I logged the OCV duty cycle for left and right and at idle they were 9.41, with a peak of 57.65%. Also, the intake VVT advance angle left went up as high as 4 degrees, while right peaked at 5 deg. Also, the current to both OCVs peaked at 1.31 .

Last edited by 18aspenSTi; 01-04-2010 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:15 PM   #7
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The filters I am speaking of are just in front of the turbo on the head where the oil y'2 off to the avcs and to the turbo oil feed, on the passanger side. On the drivers side it is behind the rear timing belt cover. It requires removing the timing belt, the cam gears on that side then the rear timing cover.

I am not talking about the two that are on the OCV housings.
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:17 PM   #8
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What does your cam map call for?
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18aspenSTi View Post
The passenger side banjo bolt had a restrictor pin hole on the bottom, so i'm not sure how a filter would fit on that side. Is that the correct bolt?
This should not be any different than the other top OCV banjo. This is a problem. I wonder if the filter is in upside down?

Josh
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:01 PM   #10
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My map calls for up to 20 degrees depending on load/rpm. The right OCV bolt basicallly just has the big openings on the side , and only a small opening on the bottom and through the bolt and no room for a filter at all. When my motor was re assembled did they mix the bolt with another one?
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:51 PM   #11
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They could have, I can't think of another place there would be a banjo like what you are describing other than the turbo feed at the top of the turbo. I am pretty sure that this is a completely different size though.

I would go buy one at the subaru dealer and see if that helps.

Josh
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:03 AM   #12
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Thanks for your help. I will be visiting the dealer for a new bolt and some crush washers, and tackling this job tomorrow. Any tips that may make this removal/replacement easier?
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:11 AM   #13
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It is cake for the ones on the valve. Remove old banjo, replace crush washers and old banjo with new. Pray that fixes it.

Perhaps a can of brake clean to blast off the oil the is bound to spill.

Done

Good luck.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:51 AM   #14
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Would that wrong banjo on the pass. side affect both left and right heads' AVCS?
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:08 PM   #15
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I don't believe so however, I am fairly confident that it is wrong so that must be fixed. There could be some underlying ecu logic that tries to keep them together, however that is mearly speculation.
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #16
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A friend of mine, removed only one of the banjo filter.
The logs looked really wierd. Lol
One side ran the degree the map was calling for
The other side ran up to 5* less (on the side he forgot to remove the filter)
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:46 PM   #17
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What year and rom id? It likely does not matter but I am curious.

Last edited by jibber; 01-05-2010 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:34 PM   #18
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possibly/probably a clogged filter...

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Info_SubaruOil

i know you're not having a turbo problem but yeah.

in the link, some good TSBs, etc.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:24 PM   #19
18aspenSTi
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It's an 05, with 05 ecu. How would i see the rom id?
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:29 PM   #20
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you can use learning view, its a software that checks your ecu for learned knock, but also lists your rom id.
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:42 AM   #21
18aspenSTi
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Ok, I'll check the rom id tomorrow. I checked the banjo bolt on the back of the block and it already had the filter removed, also checked in the hole to make sure it wasn't hiding. Ordered the OCV banjo bolt today, but not in stock so waiting for that to come in.
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Old 01-06-2010, 11:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18aspenSTi View Post
It's an 05, with 05 ecu. How would i see the rom id?
Open your rom in ecu flash and select rom info or what ever the very uppermost option is.

It will show you the rom ID.

I was asking as much for you, as for the person that mentioned they had seen them be off substantially.
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Old 01-12-2010, 01:47 AM   #23
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ok, ROM info: Internal ID A2ZJB10J, ECU ID 3D12594006

I received the new banjo bolt for the passenger OCV and installed it. Seems like nothing has changed. I logged today and both cams peaked at 3 degrees on my pulls. I happened to watch the data as I was warming the car up, and when it was at approx 1500 the left advance angle went up to 8 deg. and stayed between 8-7, while the right went up to 25 deg and stayed between 24-25. Once the engine was warm and idleing at 1000, advance stayed at zero for both. I checked the bolt on the back of the block, and there was no filter there either. So far no filters found in this system, the only one I have not gotten to is the one behind the timing belt cover on the driver's side.
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Old 01-12-2010, 03:10 AM   #24
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It's a long shot, but you might try resetting the ecu once the car has warmed up, then letting it sit at idle without touching anything(brakes, gas, clutch, steering wheel...) for 5-10 min. I don't know if there is any truth behind it but I have heard stories of the AVCS not lining up properly and until it is reset, it will continue to start up in its misaligned state.

Andy
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Old 01-12-2010, 03:19 AM   #25
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What he said. After a reflash and cold start, I've seen my AVCS act broken for a few minutes and then suddenly start acting normal. I'm not sure what it does after a cold start without a reflash but it wouldn't surprise me if it was exactly the same - just waiting for oil to get warm before it starts working.
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