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Old 01-12-2010, 05:45 PM   #26
jibber
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Location: Your ECU
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98 SF5 some mods
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Yeah, I suppose I should have mentioned that you must let the car "0" the cams (at idle) before they will do anything. Once they zero out and start showing in the logger you can usually go drive them and they will move properly if they are working correctly.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:03 PM   #27
the suicidal eggroll
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2012 WRX

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Just a bit more info on those AVCS bolts

There are 4 bolts in the system, 2 types.
Rear passenger head and front driver's head (behind the timing belt cover) have filters, they also have a small (1/8") bump in the center of the bolt head.
The bolts on top of the OCV are the same passenger vs driver, they have no filter, and the head of the bolt has no bump (it's flat).

That's a pretty easy way to see which bolt is which, you should have 2 bolts with a bump (on the heads), and 2 bolts without (on the OCV).

Is it possible your cam timing has jumped a tooth? I imagine that would throw a cam position CEL and probably disable, or at least cut back on the AVCS advance.


No bump:
http://www.thesuicidaleggroll.com/st...0/DSCN0587.JPG

Bump:
http://www.thesuicidaleggroll.com/st...0/DSCN0589.JPG
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:18 PM   #28
wrxsti.l
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2002 ADM WRX STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18aspenSTi View Post
I logged the NPS yesterday. It read 0 while in gear and 1 when in neutral.
I'll have to double check at lunch time for you, but I am pretty sure your polarity is reversed - I'm sure it is meant to show 1 while in gear and 0 while in neutral.

Will check in 2 hours for you - unless someone else knows for sure and would like to post.

Leslie
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:50 PM   #29
18aspenSTi
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11.75 & NSFW,
I just tried resetting the ecu after it was up to operating temp, and letting it idle without touching anything at all for 15 min. then tried it out, no luck, pretty much the same as before...3 degrees max advance. and it still did 12-25 degree advance when warming at 1500 rpm.

Jibber,
The cams have always zeroed before I move it at all. Once it's down to idle speed the go to "0", only when warming up @1500 rpm do they advance a lot.

Eggroll,
The OCV bolts are both correct now. Will check the other 2 in a few min. I thought about jumping a tooth, but read that the car would feel down on power and not drive as well. It however still pulls very very hard, once it spools later than usual. Is it possible for the car to still run well with a jumped tooth?

WRXSTI.L,
I appreciate you checking when you can.



Thanks everyone for helping me with this dilemma.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:29 AM   #30
18aspenSTi
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I replaced the oil pickup tube, but apparently that was not this issue. When I was test driving it though, I noticed that even though the rev limit is set at 7100 rpm on the map, that my peak rpm was 7360. I remember seeing the needle dip to that point from the slight overlap of throttle/clutch when shifting? Could this be an issue with the ecu that could also be affecting my avcs actuation?
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:07 AM   #31
ImportJunky
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I'm Curious on this one as well. Just rebuilt the motor. not even 100 miles in and this has been popped twice.

Guess Looking into later today :-(
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:52 AM   #32
18aspenSTi
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People have mentioned that maybe the person who built the motor forgot to remove the allen screws from the BC 272s and that is causing AVCS to not work. I had not gotten a chance to log anything before I experienced this problem, but spool is definitely taking longer now than when I bought it. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:37 AM   #33
Mr.Chow
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ever get this figured out?
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