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Old 06-01-2010, 11:53 PM   #26
Jericho
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I agree, this is a good write-up! I have the STi adj. coilovers that are making noise, so I am going to do this soon and hope they werent a waist of money. Ill have to see how it goes...
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Old 07-03-2010, 02:10 PM   #27
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one question...is there any particular type of grease to use?
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:13 AM   #28
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I agree, this is a good write-up! I have the STi adj. coilovers that are making noise, so I am going to do this soon and hope they werent a waist of money. Ill have to see how it goes...

Coilovers you can't do that to the coilovers different technology unless you meant STi "pink" struts.

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Old 07-06-2010, 10:15 AM   #29
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one question...is there any particular type of grease to use?
I will recommend some type of marine grease which you can buy in any Autozone, Advance etc...
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:20 AM   #30
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As far for my setup over month on those modified struts and everything so far so good. I was little worried about my front struts since when I drilled out those I found out they are not same like rear struts as far for the “teflon section” placement but everything seams ok only adding grease to the front struts is little bit harder bc there is less space to squeeze the grease. What is important no clunk what so ever.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:10 PM   #31
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First, thank you hwy61 for the great writeup. The pictures really helped me understand the issue and prepare for the job. I repacked my rear struts this weekend. I decided to just repack with white Li grease instead of installing the fittings, although I did buy the fittings and a grease gun, hahaha. I chickened out on the drilling. If the issue ever comes back I will install the fittings. The job is pretty easy and if you work on your car much you can do it. It only took me about 2 hours to do the whole job and that includes getting interrupted by wife, kids packing off tools, etc. It also helped that I have removed and replaced my struts/springs a few times so I have a bit of experience.

The noise is obviously gone but I wanted to point out how much better my car seems to feel and drive and I haven't seen that noted much anywhere. It is much smoother and more predictable than before and seems to handle better as well. Maybe it's just me but it seems like night and day. Also, before the fix, when turning sharply left or right at slow but spirited speeds I heard clunking (or a rubbing sound) coming from what I thought was the front of the car and I suspected steering rack related. It was also rough and did not feel stable. However, after the repack of my rear struts this is gone as well. To me, this indicates that the clunking is something you need to fix for a variety of reasons including safety. Just my observations for what it's worth.

I do have one question, though. Is this procedure also recommended for the fronts? Do they tyically develop clunk as well? I haven't heard much about that but I think they are a different design. Still, if this worked so well for the rears I'm wondering if I should do the fronts as well while I still have the spring compressor rented. Does anyone know how the fronts are designed as far as the damper, bushings, grease, etc.?

Last edited by decaman; 07-08-2010 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:32 PM   #32
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No fronts usually stay quite... I just did mine for giggles but if you are talking about re-greasing than I will say go for it but only if you have really good spring compressor. Front STi struts are PITA to reassemble with stock springs.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:40 PM   #33
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No fronts usually stay quite... I just did mine for giggles but if you are talking about re-greasing than I will say go for it but only if you have really good spring compressor. Front STi struts are PITA to reassemble with stock springs.
I have Espiler GT springs. Try those babies sometime. They are like 40% stiffer than stock or something. Hahaha! When I did them I used ropes in a come-along fashion. It worked well but was not the safest. This time I just rented (for free, mind you) the spring compressors to do it right. It's like 20 mins to drive over, pick them up from Kragen, and drive back home.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:49 PM   #34
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I do have one question, though. Is this procedure also recommended for the fronts? Do they tyically develop clunk as well? I haven't heard much about that but I think they are a different design.
The fronts don't seem to have the side loading that the rear geometry causes. Never heard about stiction from the fronts.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:58 PM   #35
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just curious, can you take the strut out of the strut body on a wagon like u can on the sti?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:07 PM   #36
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Nope.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:13 PM   #37
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piss was gonna put sti struts in wrx strut housing
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Old 07-09-2010, 02:47 PM   #38
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http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/1917-1911M/IMG_2955.jpg
ok so i snapped the one of the three bolts that are holding the strut into place... any one know where i could get that whole replacement part?
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Old 07-09-2010, 02:59 PM   #39
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You could just pick up a used tophat. That should be pretty cheap and people usually have those lying around. I don't remember if those bolts can be replaced easily or not.

How did you snap that bolt? It should only be torqued to like 14.5 ft-lbs.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:05 PM   #40
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yeah i was tightening it...wasnt using a tourqe wrench...whats a tophat?
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:09 PM   #41
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nvm dumb question....top hat...lol where do u guys think would be the easyest place to get one? can i get that on line somewhere
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:12 PM   #42
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nvm dumb question....top hat...lol where do u guys think would be the easyest place to get one? can i get that on line somewhere
Check the for sale threads. Here's some for 40 shipped. Just make sure when you get them they are the right one's for your year and model, although many are the same/interchangeable. Also, fronts are different than rears so check that as well.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...light=top+hats
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:18 PM   #43
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alright cool thsnks alot for the help
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:46 AM   #44
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No fronts usually stay quite... I just did mine for giggles but if you are talking about re-greasing than I will say go for it but only if you have really good spring compressor. Front STi struts are PITA to reassemble with stock springs.
So you are saying you need a spring compressor for the front not the back struts? I'm doing the most research on what I need to do this job. The sound is really bad on my STI.
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:30 AM   #45
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You could just pick up a used tophat. That should be pretty cheap and people usually have those lying around. I don't remember if those bolts can be replaced easily or not.

How did you snap that bolt? It should only be torqued to like 14.5 ft-lbs.

They are easy to replace you just need hammer Hit them from a top couple times and they popped out. I just replace all my studs on rear top hat bc I used 1" spacers to level my car.
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:31 AM   #46
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So you are saying you need a spring compressor for the front not the back struts? I'm doing the most research on what I need to do this job. The sound is really bad on my STI.

Well at least on my set which should be the same as yours. I have 04 STi stock struts/springs on my forester and to make my ride height even I have to use 1Ē thick spacers. With those spacers I have to use longer bolts so my top hat has to go. I was surprised when I popped my rear top hat and didnít shoot across the shop :-) Anyway to answer your question yes I didnít use any spring compressor for rear struts.
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Old 07-11-2010, 06:55 PM   #47
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I removed the strut but I can't remove the nut at the bottom of the strut that holds the damper it just spins even with the spring assembled
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:49 PM   #48
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I removed the strut but I can't remove the nut at the bottom of the strut that holds the damper it just spins even with the spring assembled

Hopefully you didnít mess up anything. Ö Anyway inspect the strut and then grab the actual insert from a top (with your spring removed) and pus down and twist , you should feel that strut will lock itself and then you should be able to remove/tight that nut. Itís hard to explain but that hole on the bottom is not round it has a flat section and same thing is on the strut insert little flat section
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:00 PM   #49
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Hopefully you didnít mess up anything. Ö Anyway inspect the strut and then grab the actual insert from a top (with your spring removed) and pus down and twist , you should feel that strut will lock itself and then you should be able to remove/tight that nut. Itís hard to explain but that hole on the bottom is not round it has a flat section and same thing is on the strut insert little flat section
thanks for the help but unfortunately its not locking so im assuming the strut is gone. So now i need to find a strut.
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:27 PM   #50
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thanks for the help but unfortunately its not locking so im assuming the strut is gone. So now i need to find a strut.
What did you use to tight that bottom nut? Just hand wrench or Air wrench you maybe fine. Can you take close up picture of your strut? I will also stop by tonight at the shop and look on my old 06 strut just for reference. If you can remove your insert and take close-up picture (bottom strut and threaded insert at the bottom)
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