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Old 07-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #51
Nate_1990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgX_CZ View Post
What did you use to tight that bottom nut? Just hand wrench or Air wrench you maybe fine. Can you take close up picture of your strut? I will also stop by tonight at the shop and look on my old 06 strut just for reference. If you can remove your insert and take close-up picture (bottom strut and threaded insert at the bottom)
The opposite end of the spring the nut is almost off. But the bolt spins and the strut wont lock. It's ok I think the strut is broken because it can compress really easily and it sounds like it is leaking I will have my friend check it out to comfirm this. I appreciate the help from everyone, especially you cyborgX
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:59 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Nate_1990 View Post
The opposite end of the spring the nut is almost off. But the bolt spins and the strut wont lock. It's ok I think the strut is broken because it can compress really easily and it sounds like it is leaking I will have my friend check it out to comfirm this. I appreciate the help from everyone, especially you cyborgX

Bummer, well it sounds your cartridge is done but I think you will be able to find older strut and hey any 04-07 sti strut will work, or I will say just the inside cartridge keep your body just in case and than just swap that insert if you get 05-07strut.

PS: This is only if you are using 04 STi struts of course. If you have any question just PM me.
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Old 07-13-2010, 06:34 PM   #53
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The opposite end of the spring the nut is almost off. But the bolt spins and the strut wont lock. It's ok I think the strut is broken because it can compress really easily and it sounds like it is leaking I will have my friend check it out to comfirm this. I appreciate the help from everyone, especially you cyborgX
Don't worry to much about it, we can fix/rebuild that strut for you.

It's common for the nut that holds the valving in place to come loose while impacting the nut on the insert shaft. Then you have a soft shock, or a the shaft comes all the way out with the fluid. Be careful, those shafts can shoot out like an arrow because there is alot of pressure behind them.
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:47 PM   #54
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My rears on (04 STi struts) are sticking and clunking finally. They are not blown though. Dumb question but I am guessing this is the solution to that problem? It makes my car handle like crap.
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Old 07-17-2010, 10:44 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by hwy61 View Post
Part 2.



.... This makes me wonder about the front struts now. Hwy61
did the fronts last night... the top of second bushing is at 6" from the strut top... I have to cut a little bit into the sheet metal notch in order to have room to install the zerk ... the blue line marks the top of the bushing

btw did you find a way on how to protect it (rubber cap or some tube or some) ?

great mod man!!!


Last edited by cbarbu; 10-14-2011 at 09:24 PM. Reason: pics added
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:26 AM   #56
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did the rears... awesome improvement...
thank you for the how-to!!
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:06 PM   #57
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How long until the whole strut is filled with grease? I don't see the benefit of this.
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:10 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Badler View Post
How long until the whole strut is filled with grease? I don't see the benefit of this.
25 pumps!
The benefit is the grease runs between the damper body and the 2 alignment bushings inside the outside housing so it will be always a wet slide instead of a dry one...worked for me...
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:11 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by cbarbu View Post
25 pumps!
The benefit is the grease runs between the damper body and the 2 alignment bushings inside the outside housing so it will be always a wet slide instead of a dry one...worked for me...
I understand how it works. I don't understand where all this grease you keep pumping in them is going? It's not like it's evaporating and you are refilling it.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:15 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Badler View Post
I understand how it works. I don't understand where all this grease you keep pumping in them is going? It's not like it's evaporating and you are refilling it.
haha... no it's not... but since you can't fill up in one shot you'll fill up only to grease the bushings... eventually the strut housing will be fill out... in case it's too full it will come of thru the grease fitting...
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:22 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by cbarbu View Post
haha... no it's not... but since you can't fill up in one shot you'll fill up only to grease the bushings... eventually the strut housing will be fill out... in case it's too full it will come of thru the grease fitting...
How is it going to come back out the fitting? Seems to me like it's just going to fill up the housing until it is hydrolocked essentially.
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:11 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Badler View Post
How is it going to come back out the fitting? Seems to me like it's just going to fill up the housing until it is hydrolocked essentially.
sorry... wrong saying.... it won't overflow....
The part that is fill out is the part between the two bushings including. The grease will not fall out on the housing base due to lower bushing o-ring (see pics page 1).
I hope it makes sense...
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:24 PM   #63
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I don't think you understand what I am asking. I do said procedure above. 3mos later I pump more grease into them. Then 3mos late they start clunking again so I add more. Where is it all going? How long until the whole strut housing is filled with grease?
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:55 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Badler View Post
I don't think you understand what I am asking. I do said procedure above. 3mos later I pump more grease into them. Then 3mos late they start clunking again so I add more. Where is it all going? How long until the whole strut housing is filled with grease?
let me try again... hopefully you'll get it this time:
- the strut slides in the housing between 2 bushings
- the lower bushing has an o-ring who keeps the grease falling down on the bottom of the housing where you need the air for cushion
- when your strut is clunking you add grease thru the zerk and the grease will go between the lower o-ring and the top seal and the clunk stops
- in time the strut will clunk again; you add more grease and eventually you'll fill up the whole space between the bushings => no grease will go below the o-ring or top seal; you'll fell it in the grease gun.
- after that you'll have no more strut clunk due to the fact the space is full and grease the bushings
- in case you'll get it again, the grease came of the top seal (visual check - grease & dirt) or the bottom seal (you have to take it out)
- time we'll tell if this mod will function properly, but as of now I'm happy with it.
- thx OP for sharing!!

food for thought:
- if grease will fill the bottom housing at the first big pothole you'll blow the top seal or the zerk
- if you actively work the suspension the grease will get hot and maybe will slip thru the bottom o-ring
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:06 PM   #65
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I am familiar with repacking the struts. I've done it. I just dont see the logic behind the zerk fitting?

Take your example above: - when your strut is clunking you add grease thru the zerk and the grease will go between the lower o-ring and the top seal and the clunk stops

What happened to the grease already in there? Where did/does it go?
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:38 PM   #66
cbarbu
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I am familiar with repacking the struts. I've done it. I just dont see the logic behind the zerk fitting?

Take your example above: - when your strut is clunking you add grease thru the zerk and the grease will go between the lower o-ring and the top seal and the clunk stops

What happened to the grease already in there? Where did/does it go?
all right; let's play your game....

- Strut is clunking 'cause of lack of grease on the bushing, right? you add grease and the clunk stops; everybody agree so far

- What happens to the grease? If you notice "food for though" before, the grease could do 2 things:
1. get old, harden and stick to the walls between the bushings - see OEM
2. if you work the suspension the grease gets hot and might slip thru the bottom o-ring - you have to take it out so you won't blow anything on a hard shock

- the ideal combination is the space between bushings (more precise between bottom o-ring and top seal) is packed and you won't need to add more grease; in this case if you force more grease in, you'll pass either the o-ring or the seal...

hope this time you ok...
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:05 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by cbarbu View Post
all right; let's play your game....

- Strut is clunking 'cause of lack of grease on the bushing, right? you add grease and the clunk stops; everybody agree so far

- What happens to the grease? If you notice "food for though" before, the grease could do 2 things:
1. get old, harden and stick to the walls between the bushings - see OEM
2. if you work the suspension the grease gets hot and might slip thru the bottom o-ring - you have to take it out so you won't blow anything on a hard shock

- the ideal combination is the space between bushings (more precise between bottom o-ring and top seal) is packed and you won't need to add more grease; in this case if you force more grease in, you'll pass either the o-ring or the seal...

hope this time you ok...
So basically you have have no idea? I'll just wait for long term reviews. Seems a little excessive to me.
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:50 AM   #68
Bdavis1
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What kind of time frame am I looking at if I decide to get into this? Will i need the whole weekend? just a day?
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:26 AM   #69
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No o-ring seal, and definitely no bushing, on something like the cartridge body is even close to perfect. Grease will slip past over time and be wiped off on the 'wrong' side of it.

If you're worried it will pack up in the air-space below the cartridge, drill a hole in the bottom of the strut to give it a place to 'drain' out. It probably doesn't even need to be on the ground-facing face of the strut (i.e, the end)... just somewhere near the bottom edge.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:00 AM   #70
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No o-ring seal, and definitely no bushing, on something like the cartridge body is even close to perfect. Grease will slip past over time and be wiped off on the 'wrong' side of it.

If you're worried it will pack up in the air-space below the cartridge, drill a hole in the bottom of the strut to give it a place to 'drain' out. It probably doesn't even need to be on the ground-facing face of the strut (i.e, the end)... just somewhere near the bottom edge.
What about the bumpstop? Don't you think drilling a hole in it would be asking for debris to get it there as well?
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:47 AM   #71
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What about the bumpstop? Don't you think drilling a hole in it would be asking for debris to get it there as well?
It's been a while since I looked at the bottom of STi struts, but isn't there already a small drain-hole to let water out that might accumulate in there? There is no pressure down in that cavity to worry about maintaining... it is empty outside of grease and a bumpstop. STi's use a strut-cartridge that is self-contained (it's like a small shock that resides inside the strut-body). It's not like a WRX strut that is a sealed system that contains gas pressure.

I don't believe the bumpstop 'seals' to the inside of the strut-body, grease/whatever will likely be able to sneak past.

I wouldn't freak out too much about debris hurting the bumpstop. If you've ever seen the bumpstops in there, they're huge (like 4" long, iirc)... it'd take a long time and a lot of debris to tear one up, imho.

You could take pains to put this 'new' drain-hole toward the trailing edge of the strut so that there's less of a 'ram-air' effect letting any debris in. Further, you could put a small bit of screen over it.

'Right-side-up' struts do not suffer any terribly ill effects from dirt/debris contacting the shock-shafts.. the stock WRX dust-boots do not seal perfectly to the strut, dirt and dust does get in there.

EDIT: let's put it this way... the point of the grease-zerk mod is to save a set of struts you're thinking of throwing away anyway (b/c they're clunking). You have two choices: try this mod and 'see what happens'... or trash your struts and buy new ones.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:29 PM   #72
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Well just my 0.2c … I think it’s clunking for one simple reason. It is inverted strut, other word… fat part is sticking outside and skinny part is inside. Skinny part will naturally wobble inside the strut body and grease just helps and reduce that movement and yes grease will slowly over the time melt…
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:31 AM   #73
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My old STi cartridges with high mileage are dying. They clunk, stick, etc. I have some low mileage cartridges coming soon and will do this Zerk mod to help them last longer. I can't wait till all the little things are fixed on the car and it's back to normal.
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:25 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by CyborgX_CZ View Post
Well just my 0.2c … I think it’s clunking for one simple reason. It is inverted strut, other word… fat part is sticking outside and skinny part is inside. Skinny part will naturally wobble inside the strut body and grease just helps and reduce that movement and yes grease will slowly over the time melt…

now that makes sense to me! I have this problem on my 03 Wagon and what you're saying makes sense with the movements I experience in the car. slow speed breaking or taking off (specially worse on inclines) makes the clunking sounds and i can also feel the ass of the car lift up and settle into place (slide down) when you are fully stopped.

the car is used and I'm not sure if the strut housing in WRX or 04 Sti. Does anybody know if the 04 STi insert fits inside the WRX strut housing? From the outside it looks black, I'm not sure if the STi's are pink from the factory. I'm not sure if it being inverted requires the specific use of the Sti housing either.

I'm going to replace all corners with Konis, but I'm not sure if I should be worried about rear strut / housing issues. Thanks guys.
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:19 PM   #75
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^^ 04 STi was pink housings, 05+ are black. STi inserts will only fit in STi housings. What you're feeling is stiction: when it literally sticks and as weight is transferred to the rear the sticking is overcome and the car will settle. Mine does this as well.

Konis are not inverted and therefore do not experience this problem. Since you've already got STi struts I'm assuming you'e at least using an STi spring or some other 04-07 spring? Make sure you get the Konis for 04-07 WRX.
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