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Old 01-19-2010, 08:45 PM   #1
txl146
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Default DIY: how to remove rear knuckle on WRX (to install new wheel bearing)

Here is how to remove front knuckle:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1835257

Tools you need:

Wrench, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 32mm sockets
New axle nut, PB blaster, breaker bar, anti-seize

1. Release emergency brake handle (otherwise rear rotor won't come off!!). Place a piece of wooden block behind front tire or put the gear in 1st gear.

Using 32mm socket, it's time to remove the axle nut with the wheel still on the ground if you just have hand tools.

I did it with wheel removed with corded impact wrench:


2. Remove the wheel after jacking up both rear wheels. Lifting both wheels is necessary otherwise it would be nearly impossible to install the strut back into the knuckle.

3. Remove 4x 14mm bolts and remove rear brake caliper and bracket. Make sure to either zip tie the caliper or lay it on top of sway bar securely.


4. Remove the rear rotor - if it's frozen, insert a bolt (forgot the size) into one of the thread to push it out.

5. Loosen 2 19mm strut mount bolts. You will need to let it soak in PB blaster for 30 min or so.
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Last edited by txl146; 03-13-2010 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:48 PM   #2
txl146
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6. This is probably the hardest part because this long bolt is known to FUSE into trailing arm. Pray that it is NOT as it will make removal of knuckle much easier.

Using 19mm socket, remove the nut and washer and now you should be able to hammer the long bolt out from right side.




Last edited by txl146; 01-19-2010 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:51 PM   #3
lavid2002
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purpose?
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:51 PM   #4
txl146
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7. Now it's time to remove lower bolt (trailing link) using 17mm socket:




8. Remove 12mm bolt holding ABS sensor wire / emergency brake cable:


Remove the clip that holds emergency brake line into the knuckle:


Remove ABS sensor from the knuckle using 12mm socket. If car has a lot of miles, it would be difficult to remove the bolt... make sure to let it soak in PB blaster for a while.


9. Now it's time to separate knuckle from the axle - you can use a mallet or hammer to separate them out:


Here is how to remove rear lower trailing arm bushing while knuckle is OFF:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1931924

Last edited by txl146; 02-11-2010 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:53 PM   #5
txl146
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10. Remove emergency brake parts (optional)





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Old 01-19-2010, 08:55 PM   #6
txl146
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Now, bring the knuckle to a local shop and have them press out / in new wheel bearing.

New wheel bearing installed:


Time to spray paint:



Make sure to use new axle nut (torque spec: 137 lb ft)


Done:
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:31 PM   #7
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Wonderful guide. Thank you for this.
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:29 PM   #8
Arnie
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The worst part (aside from seized bolts) is reassembling the drum brake. I hate drum brakes.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:16 AM   #9
txl146
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Here is a tip for those who are having an issue with seized "long" bolt.

---> this is exactly what I did when left rear long bolt was completely fused into the trailing arm. No matter what I did, it did not budge.

One way to remove the knuckle is to disconnect the trailing arm from the rear sub-frame (one bolt). Worked really well, but only downside is now wheel alignment is OFF.

Last edited by txl146; 02-08-2010 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:15 AM   #10
Bfazona
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How long did the disassembly/assembly take you? I am upgrading to 4/2 pots and bought 06 hubs & knuckles for the car so I don't need adapter brackets or to bend my backing plates. It looks like I should set aside an entire day in case I run into any seized bolts. And how much did the axle nut cost? Nice write-up by the way too.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:08 PM   #11
txl146
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Thanks - I have H6 bracket in the rear so I had to bend the backing plate.

First time I did it, it took me around 4 hours to disassemble and reassemble everything because long bolt was completely fused into the trailing arm. I had to disconnect the trailing arm from the sub-frame instead. Also, it was my first time disassembling the emergency brake, so I took my time.

2nd time around, I was able to get it done in under 1.5 hour because long bolt came off rather easily. A guy who works at local Subaru dealer said even they have difficult time removing the long bolt with air tools.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:04 PM   #12
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Great, I can't wait to tackle this bolt without any air tools. I'll make sure that I have plenty of time on my hands, probably a full weekend because I have to do both sides obviously.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:22 PM   #13
txl146
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If that long bolt is not fused, I am sure you can get it done under 3-4 hours if you take time. Good luck and keep us updated.
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Old 02-07-2010, 12:50 AM   #14
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Will soon be doing rear trailing arm bushing install write up. One thing I should have mentioned in this thread is use of anti-seize when putting everything back together.
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Old 02-07-2010, 04:27 AM   #15
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Very nice write up. Thank you
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Old 02-07-2010, 05:29 PM   #16
Bfazona
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Yes, antiseize is your best friend. I just finished up the rear 2 pot conversion on my car this weekend and ran into 1 fused bolt. I did the driver's side first and the bolt came out fine, just to have a surprise waiting for me on the passenger side. Also, when tightening the axle nut, pull on the emergency break or have a friend hold the brake down. Do not tighten it with the wheel back on the car on the ground.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:39 PM   #17
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About a year after my fiancee bought her Saabaru, we pulled all this apart to replace all the bushings. When we reassembled, we used anti-seize liberally. 4 years later, I just had to pull this back apart because she'd been in an accident. It all came apart even after 4 Ohio winters (read: stupid heavy salt).

Anti-seize works!
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:06 AM   #18
txl146
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I agree - I have a big bottle of anti-seize. It really works well.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:57 PM   #19
Bruce Wayne
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on a 05 STi, if i'm replacing the whole knuckle (might be bent) do i need to disassemble the parking brake?

Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
10. Remove emergency brake parts (optional)





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Old 04-19-2010, 07:11 PM   #20
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sorry - I do not know for sure.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:36 PM   #21
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Another way with the long bolt is to rock it back and forth using alot of Pb. You are just working it until it comes out be patient.
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Old 07-19-2010, 06:23 PM   #22
txl146
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I was able to remove long bolt on passenger side, but my driver side bolt is completely fused. I spent several hours, then gave up. Even Subaru technicians told me they are having hard time removing these bolts...
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Old 07-19-2010, 08:20 PM   #23
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Let it sit in a puddle of PB. Where mine was seized was in the part closest to the nut at the knuckle. Maybe try some heat with a propane torch. Heat the knuckle so it expands and keep blasting it with PB. Eventually it will cave in. Especially after alot of swearing.
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:29 AM   #24
txl146
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Will try heat torch next time - this long fused bolt is what keeps me from ordering TIC trailing link bushings.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:33 AM   #25
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Thanks for the write up I need to do this
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