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Old 02-09-2011, 09:47 AM   #176
TJCrenshaw
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I have the same car as you, '06 SGM STi. Car had 44k on it when I bought it 9/2009. 400 miles later, pick up tube failed, miserably. Subaru's 60k powertrain warranty covered a new shortblock, probably would have for yours too, depending in when the car was originally purchased (it's 5yr/60k miles from original date of purchase)
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:51 AM   #177
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Wow!! Didn't know about this. I have 05Sti right under 60k miles on it. I know what I'm doing next. I'll be ordering this ASAP. Doesn't sound hard to do. Do I have to break lose the mounts? Or since I'll be using a two post lift be easier? Any particular sequence on the bolt for the pan? Sorry for all the questions. Any other thing I should replace next after this tube?? Lol thanks for the help and the 411 guys.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:32 PM   #178
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KillerB, do you recommend installing an oil pressure gauge when upgrading to your pickup or is it really unnecessary? I'm really strapped for cash, but terrified of having my STI blow up on me unexpectedly. I was going to just get a gauge for now, but then started to see stories of it happening with little to no warning whatsoever.
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:26 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stil2stock View Post
KillerB, do you recommend installing an oil pressure gauge when upgrading to your pickup or is it really unnecessary? I'm really strapped for cash, but terrified of having my STI blow up on me unexpectedly. I was going to just get a gauge for now, but then started to see stories of it happening with little to no warning whatsoever.
As far as supplying oil, the pumps on our cars are pretty bullet proof. once the pickup is replaced, you've drastically reduced the chance of anything happening on the supply side. I never recommend relying on a gauge because most often they just let go instead of cracking over time, but after it's replaced there really isn't a need for the average driver to have a gauge. If I were strapped for cash I'd leave the gauge out for now.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:19 AM   #180
MorphiasX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJCrenshaw View Post
I have the same car as you, '06 SGM STi. Car had 44k on it when I bought it 9/2009. 400 miles later, pick up tube failed, miserably. Subaru's 60k powertrain warranty covered a new shortblock, probably would have for yours too, depending in when the car was originally purchased (it's 5yr/60k miles from original date of purchase)
I purchased mine in October 2009, with 42k on it, and now have 55k on it. The previous owners purchased Subaru added security extended 6yr/100,000 warranty, which I transferred into my name, so mine would have been covered regardless, but I didn't want to let it get to that point anyways.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:31 AM   #181
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I added that Subaru warranty to mine when I bought it, and it has more than paid for itself. I've honestly had numerous little problems here and there: ball joint went bad, strut went bad, steering angle sensor went bad, cruise control switch was faulty, etc. I have no idea what the last guy did to this car. I still love it though
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:52 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
LOL... It will outlast your motor/car. Been making them since 2008 with ~800 units sold and LOTS installed on track cars.

If this part fails you've got MUCH bigger problem. Album is HERE if you'd like to see some pics.
is this for people who track there car or anyone who mods it?
good thing i feel on this thread
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:56 AM   #183
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It's for anyone really, since the factory one seems to have random issues. Some go forever and never have a problem, some don't. At least from what I have found while searching about it.
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:32 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJCrenshaw View Post
It's for anyone really, since the factory one seems to have random issues. Some go forever and never have a problem, some don't. At least from what I have found while searching about it.
hmmm never happy about paying for a mod that dosent make it go faster but this seems to be a must if i wanna keep my car for a while.. killer bee there are 3 options on your site, besides the oil pickup line do i need anything else? what are the other 2 options for?
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:15 PM   #185
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^ Besides the pickup you don't need anything else. Since the introduction of our baffle, most pickups that we sell now are bought with a baffle too. The cost in low (compared with other ones on the market) and when you change the pickup you half way uninstall the baffle (2 of the 4 baffle bolts fasten the pickup legs in place) anyway, so the baffle install is really easy.

The pan is not needed unless you do any kind of performance driving where the benefits of the pan can be taken advantage of. On a daily driver the pan will lower your oil temps a bit and if you have oil analysis done, they will likely tell you that you can extend the oil change interval.
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:19 PM   #186
KillerBMotorsport
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And if anyone is interested here's a write up I did on why the OEM pickups fail...

I’ve gotten many requests for detailed information regarding the Oil Pickup, both OEM and the one we manufacture so I thought I’d post, what I know, for everyone to see. Specifically the questions seemed to be about the factory pickup and how/why it fails. Bear in mind this is information that has been presented to me and I am no scientist.



So on to the factory pickups… They are brazed assemblies (it's kind of like welding, but more like soldering with temperatures much lower than welding ~800 degrees. The braze is the gold stuff you see between the pieces. Before the braze can be applied to the metal pieces you put this stuff called 'flux' on them. The flux makes sure that when the parts are heated up that the braze flows between and sticks to the metal parts properly. When operators, or machines, puts the flux on these parts to get them ready for brazing, the flux must AT LEAST cover the area that needs to be brazed together. So the application of the flux is typically quite extensive and sloppy.

This application of flux and brazing seem to be done properly because I've never seen a braze joint failure. The problem is that the flux SHOULD be cleaned from the parts after the brazing process has been completed. We'll come back to this in a second.

Now the tube, where the failures occur, is a simple thin (~.030") walled seam welded tube. A seam welded tube is basically a long skinny flat piece of metal that gets rolled into a tube and then welded where the edges meet. If you look at some of the pics in my link you'll see a distinct line that runs the length of the tube. That's the weld. Welded tubing has it's downside. While cheap, the weld can be the achilles heal if not done properly. In this situation it's a rough surface (when you look under a microscope), which means it can break or crack easier than if it were smooth, and more brittle than the non-welded area of the tube wall.

OK so back to the braze... When not removed from certain process affected areas, specifically a hardened rough weld, it will get into any micro pock mark or pit when it's applied then heated, and a chemical reaction will occur. The flux reacts with the specific metal condition of the weld (harder and pits, etc..) and will etch into the pits making them deeper... this can also make the metal more brittle too. This is what ends up weakening the structure to the point of cracking. And the fact that it's bolted to the bottom of an engine doesn't help either.

Speaking to vibrations and engines modified with bolt-ons. Engine vibration is not as much a contributing factor as you might initially think for a few reasons. The rotating assemblies are fairly well balanced and harmonically dampened. The oil pickup is submerged in oil, and filled with oil. This dampens the engine vibrations tremendously at the pickup. Some assume the pickup is just swinging around from the engine vibrations, but forget that the pickup is also in oil and full of oil. Now where high frequency vibrations do come from is the oil pump. Typically called ‘high frequency pressure pulsation’, these lower amplitude pulses can have a more pronounced affect because of harmonics that can build in the pickup assembly, possibly where a critical frequency may be being reached at certain RPMs (speed of the oil pump).

So essentially, based on what I have experienced and learned, the OEM oil pickup failures are initiated from a chemical reaction from braze flux on the weld seam and these weakened areas are taken advantage of by oil pump induced high frequency vibrations.


USDM Oil Pickups - Left: 02-05 WRX 2.0, Center: 04-05 Forester/Legacy/Impreza (all 2.5), Right: ALL 2.5 liter motors from 2006 to Current model year




Random Broken OEM Pickup Pictures Provided by Customers - CLICK HERE FOR THE PHOTO ALBUM
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:24 PM   #187
OK11WRX
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I just bought a 2011 WRX and this seems like a good thing to take care of over the next year or so (if not sooner).

I have some questions:

1. What is the consensus on the Killer B oil baffle? I've never even heard of this part, on their website it seems like a good idea. Do many people do this with the new pick up?

2. What is everyone's experience with these mods affecting warranties? Are most dealers cool about installing these parts?

Thanks!

-Brandon
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:00 AM   #188
KillerBMotorsport
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Brandon, here's my 2 cents until others chime in...

1. The design is based on the latest design principles for Baffle/Windage Tray design. Since we introduced the product most oil pickups and pans that we sell now have a baffle going with them. My thought is most enthusiasts are installing them because when you change out the pickup (or pan) the baffle isright there and extremely easy to get to, and the price is low compared to other products available. Every pickup/pan that is bought for a track car (as far as I know) always has a baffle going with it.

2. Our parts are installed by some Subaru dealerships on cars still under warranty. Once you hold one of these pickups, and see one next to an OEM piece, it becomes very clear that our pickup was designed with a 'failure is not an option' mantra. If your local dealer is unsure I'd be more than happy to give them contact information on some dealerships who have installed our pickups for references.

Let me know if there's anything else I can do for you.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:39 AM   #189
sjs0433
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Great part. Such a piece of mind never worrying about a pickup failure. Glad I installed mine.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:47 AM   #190
TJCrenshaw
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Just a little good publicity for Killer B:
There are 3 of these getting installed within a 1 week period here in the Orlando, FL area, all by the same dealer. 2 are going in as peace of mind, 1 in a 2008 WRX, 1 in a 2006 WRX, and mine is going in for both peace of mind and I have a feeling my pickup tube is in the early stages of failure (for the 2nd time), which is also a 2006, but an STi.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:34 AM   #191
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^ Thanks for the kind words guys!
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:58 PM   #192
OK11WRX
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Wow this is really good information and I cannot see how a dealer would refuse to install it or would void the warranty if they installed it (given the clear documentation of OEM failure and higher quality from Killer B).

I'll run it by my dealer and see what they have to say about it.

I may have to start a separate thread about the oil baffle, it may not get much play since this thread is focused on the pick up. I shouldn't have tried to hi-jack it anyway... haha.

Thanks for all of the responses!
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:29 AM   #193
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I have a question about my upcoming install.

The OE pickup tube has the 2 bolts for the flange and then a 3rd for the brace. (i believe)

Since the killer-B has 2 braces, do I need to get an extra bolt? And if so, what size?
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:41 AM   #194
KillerBMotorsport
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Nope, you just pull a bolt from the baffle and it goes back in once the pickup is on
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:32 AM   #195
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Awesome! thanks!!
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:59 PM   #196
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No problem!

Make sure you stick to the torque spec too, 7.2 ft/lbs
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:39 AM   #197
motorbykemike
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replaced my pickup w/ killer b a couple of weeks ago just because i can , i glanced at the stocker & said "i got lucky" and tossed it in the parts washer , a friend picked it up & looked at it closely and found it had a hairline crack .

guess i did get lucky !

thanx for a great product killer b
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:24 AM   #198
KillerBMotorsport
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No problem, and thanks for using our product. Glad you avoided disaster!
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:54 PM   #199
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Finally got mine installed this weekend!!! (had motor out for clutch change so it was the perfect time to do it)

I want to second the tip that someone posted about using a few screws with no heads to help with aligning the oil pan when re-installing.

I bought four m6 set screws and had them screwed into the bottom of the block as alignment pins. They don't have to be very long at all... i used 10mm length or so and just had a little nub sticking out. Once the pan is in place and you have a few of the real screws in and holding it up, simply remove the alignment screws and replace with the regular oil pan bolts. Made things much easier, especially when trying to jam the dipstick tube back into position at the same time.



*and definitely have 2 new o-rings for the dipstick tube. One of mine was deformed from being mashed in there strangely. The second I was able to re-use, but i had to make an emergency trip to autozone just for that o-ring.


Overall I'm super happy not to have to even think about that oil pickup anymore. I still haven't examined my OE pickup really closely yet but I will. There were no noticeable cracks when i took a quick look though.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:44 PM   #200
KillerBMotorsport
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That's a good tip on the pan install. One I've not heard before, but I can see how that would be helpful.

I always recommend replacing those 2 o-rings with new ones (you can always get 2 free by buying our oil pan )and the fit is so tight they often get deformed. Putting a little motor oil on them helps some.
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