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Old 05-29-2014, 01:24 AM   #1
srpuuarx
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Default Rod Knock, used short/long blocks

I've done a bit of searching but cant seem to find recommendation on a good place to order a used short or long block, there are a few sellers on ebay with generally positive feedback but many of their sales are from smaller items and not full engines.

If I have to, I'll purchase a new short block and have my heads worked but that seems to be a more expensive route.

Having rod knock, is it realistic to think that the short block could be rebuilt? I drove about 10 miles to get the car home after the knock became apparent staying out of boost.

Got the car about 2k miles ago from the dealer sold as-is, any chance of a dealer covering this issue? I had checked the oil within 300ish miles and everything seemed fine, shortly after first hearing a creaking sort of cyclical knock (First thought timing tensioner) my oil light came on, I was pulling into the walmart parking lot and bought oil inside and refilled, I was significantly low but not empty. I probably refilled ~2 qts.

I'll be checking the oil for shards tomorrow but have checked timing and don't believe the tensioner is the issue, checked by putting pressure on tensioner and the knock seems to remain. The knock also increases with rpm.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:25 AM   #2
brew02wrx
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the longer you wait the more damage you'll do. If you suspect knock go out and get some data logs and see if you're actually knocking...if you are it's time to pull the motor and tear it apart. The block can be machined and so can the crank if need be. If you aren't experienced with rebuilding motors then i would suggest mating your heads to another shortblock
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:07 PM   #3
575rider
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By the time the dummy light comes on, no bueno. We can't tell you what the dealer will or won't do, give them a call. You can buy brand new short blocks for ~$2k.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:12 PM   #4
Gallo2011
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What'cha driving?
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:48 PM   #5
srpuuarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brew02wrx View Post
the longer you wait the more damage you'll do. If you suspect knock go out and get some data logs and see if you're actually knocking...if you are it's time to pull the motor and tear it apart. The block can be machined and so can the crank if need be. If you aren't experienced with rebuilding motors then i would suggest mating your heads to another shortblock

I used a datalogger to check and found that at the time I first started diagnosing this issue throttle >> knock sensor. I can absolutely save and return with logs if anybody thinks they might be able to definitively determine rod knock vs another issue based on a log file.

I've got correct timing and checked out my turbo as recommended by a local subaru tuner. The tensioner and pulleys don't seem to be an issue.

Here is a video for reference...sounds like a rod bearing to me.


I drained some of the oil to look for shiny particles and it seems to have some shinyness and some very small shiny particles but nothing that resembles a shard or piece of bearing that I have seen, strictly just needlepoint sized particles. How shiny is shiny?

Last edited by srpuuarx; 05-30-2014 at 03:30 AM.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:14 PM   #6
srpuuarx
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Also if anyone has a bit of input I would appreciate it. I'm most likely going to be buying another shortblock or longblock. I have a good deal of experience with mechanics, have previously owned another wrx, and have an engineering degree (I'm decently knowledgeable and fairly capable).

Is an engine install something that I may be likely to succeed at outdoors (apartment complex), with plenty of tools, an engine crane lift, a partner, and a weekend? If I take it to ecotech I've been quoted a pretty open $3-4k for a factory shortblock and install. I figure it would likely be on high side of that. The largest issue being that I am about 2 hours from ecotech, I'm assuming that the car isn't safe to drive in this condition without potentially causing more harm to the turbo, block, etc. It also seems like a tow that distance would be pretty expensive. Local shops have quoted me almost $4.5-5k to simply get back to stock which sounds a bit outrageous.

Another consideration has been a rebuild on my current block. Is it likely that the block would remain undamaged after a rod issue like this? Is dropping the oil pan to check the rod bearings necessary or helpful at this point?
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:32 PM   #7
jason02wrx
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Drop the pan and check the rods for excessive play. I can't really say for sure its the rod bearings or not. I just had my engine replaced also.
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