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Old 06-04-2010, 03:44 AM   #26
Chi_San
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberalswine View Post
Okay I had the same issue last night. Except, in addition to the pump being stuck on, the plastic tube on my was melted. I have no clue what would cause it to heat up like that since nothing in its environment would cause it except for the unit itself. Any suggestions? Here's a picture of where it was melted.

The AIR pump pumps air from the air intake into the exhaust to help heat up the primary catalyst. There should be a one way valve to prevent exhaust from going backwards into your intake. If that failed, or is leaking, you could have exhaust going up to the pump and possibly melted that hose. That's pure speculation, as I have no idea where exactly that is from that pic, and I don't have an AIR equipped car.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi_San View Post
The AIR pump pumps air from the air intake into the exhaust to help heat up the primary catalyst. There should be a one way valve to prevent exhaust from going backwards into your intake. If that failed, or is leaking, you could have exhaust going up to the pump and possibly melted that hose. That's pure speculation, as I have no idea where exactly that is from that pic, and I don't have an AIR equipped car.
Awesome, that was one of my theories. Are these the same valves notorious for sticking due to water corrosion? Seems like the delete would be most efficient in eliminating any possible future problems. Doesn't make sense to replace the unit if the valve could possibly get stuck/fail again
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberalswine View Post
Awesome, that was one of my theories. Are these the same valves notorious for sticking due to water corrosion? Seems like the delete would be most efficient in eliminating any possible future problems. Doesn't make sense to replace the unit if the valve could possibly get stuck/fail again
The delete deletes everything. Or if I did a delete, I'd pull everything.

As for where that valve is, I don't actually know. I don't have class until next monday, so I don't have access to AllData to look it up either.
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:51 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberalswine View Post
Awesome, that was one of my theories. Are these the same valves notorious for sticking due to water corrosion? Seems like the delete would be most efficient in eliminating any possible future problems. Doesn't make sense to replace the unit if the valve could possibly get stuck/fail again
The air pump & valve system is on the 2006 and newer WRX and 2007 and newer STI.

On the 2006 model, both valves are clustered next to each other, under the TMIC on the driver's side.

On the 2006 model, you can unplug both valves and have the CEL shut-off by a tuner thus allowing you to fully remove them as well as for the air-pump. On 2007 and newer models, you have to leave one of the valves plugged in because it acts as an atmospheric sensor. You still however need a tuner to shut down codes permanently.

An air pump lists for approximately $654 and the valves list for approximately $314 each.

On the 2006 model, one valve is easily removed. The other is mostly tucked under the intake manifold. There is also an air-feed tube from the valve that is under the manifold that runs along the rear top of the engine and then over to the passenger's side head, and terminates at the head behind the uppipe. The driver's side tube is easily removed to install a block-off plate.

The passenger's side requires the removal of the exhaust uppipe to access the air-feed tube. If you would be able to remove the air-feed tube then installing the block-off plate is easy. My solution was to cut the head off of the air-feed tube and leave the rest in place. I also left the other valve in place because I had no patience in trying to remove it from under the intake manifold.

Also, read this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1209260

FWIW, I don't think that water is actually infiltrating the hose/valve and getting in. I think that the water is a natural byproduct of the emissions process. Regardless, water can and may be in the first valve, causing it to corrode and fail. That's what happened to mine and along with it, it would cause the valve to stick open allowing exhaust to feed-back through the system mimicking an exhaust leak.
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:25 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
That's what happened to mine and along with it, it would cause the valve to stick open allowing exhaust to feed-back through the system mimicking an exhaust leak.
Perfect! That's everything I needed. thanks man! Also you are spot on with that last comment. This is exactly what I suspect since I do smell raw exhaust odors coming from under my hood. Again, thanks so much for the useful info!
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Old 06-04-2010, 12:31 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberalswine View Post
Perfect! That's everything I needed. thanks man! Also you are spot on with that last comment. This is exactly what I suspect since I do smell raw exhaust odors coming from under my hood. Again, thanks so much for the useful info!
You're welcome.

Although somewhat expensive at $70 for the pair, I purchased a set of block-off plates from Cosworth USA: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...&idproduct=365

I also purchased the two OEM gaskets from Chaplin's Subaru (Subaru Genuine Parts).

The Cosworth b-o plates are nice billet aluminum pieces annodized grey/silver with their name stamped on them. They come supplied with allen-head bolts, which I recommend putting a little anti-seize on before installing.

The exhaust feed-back through the valve/air-pump system would last for a few minutes until enough heat was generated to melt or boil-off the water temporarily and then close shut.
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Old 06-04-2010, 12:34 PM   #32
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Great info Big-E.

P&L manufactures the block off plates also. They're about half the price of Cosworth.

http://www.pandlmotorsports.com/osCo...roducts_id=449
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:41 PM   #33
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So guys I need to confirm this: Is a tune necessary after this delete is done? I've been calling around my shops getting an opinion and it seems to be mixed. As mentioned, my car is bone stock, and I don't want to spend 450 bucks for a pro-tune. I just want the CEL's removed.
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:34 AM   #34
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if you do due the deletion plates when it comes to getting it smogged will it pass?
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Old 09-10-2010, 11:01 PM   #35
o6wrxlimited
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Does anyone have a 06 aft valve they would like to sell? Or a tuner in the Nashville tn area that can delete the so called codes to get rid of the cel.
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Old 09-10-2010, 11:07 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by PremierWRX View Post
if you do due the deletion plates when it comes to getting it smogged will it pass?
Yes. I just had my car go through inspection and it passed and the system showed all monitors ready. I had my tuner modify my existing map to effectively shut-off the primary air-pump and both secondary air-feed valves.

This system onto itself is a secondary system and so if it is defeated properly, will not affect the primary emissions system (e.g. oxygen-sensor; etc.).
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:36 PM   #37
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So SOA offers $750 "Goodwill" for a $2200 repair. Worth going through with it?

Saw the response on smog upon deletion but you're up in NE, will it pass in California if I go through a delete?
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:38 PM   #38
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If you do the delete, have all the DTCs for it disabled in the tune, and have Force Pass Readiness enabled in the tune, it'll pass any OBD-II check. If your state actually throws the car on a dyno and sniffs the tail pipe, there's a good chance it'll still pass but at that point it comes down to the quality of the tune and the health of your other system components.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:30 AM   #39
katomonster
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I'm getting P1410, P2433, and P2444. Looks like I'm gonna either shell out 1700 big ones that the dealer wants, or find a tuner guy to gut the whole secondary air pump assembly out and reset the CEL. I think I want to do the latter, of course.

does anyone know how much I should expect to pay someone to do the block-off plate/CEL trick?
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:39 AM   #40
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Well if the dealer wants $1700 to repair the system, I'll do the deletes and delete the codes for you for $1699!



(yes, I'm kidding)
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:34 AM   #41
katomonster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Well if the dealer wants $1700 to repair the system, I'll do the deletes and delete the codes for you for $1699!



(yes, I'm kidding)
Yeah, I hear ya! I finally got SOA to do a 'good will' repair on the system.
But the next time it goes out, as it seems it does every 30-40k or so, I might need your help! ( I can't afford $1700, though!)
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:00 PM   #42
benji131807
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Default Secondary Air Pump Warranty

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Originally Posted by littlewhitewagon View Post
Straight wrong. Even the turbo is covered under the warranty for up to 80k (might be 70k, don't remember. I don't have access to my book right now, look in your warranty book and find the list of covered components. There are some covered to 50k, then some to 80k or something like that.
What book are you speaking of? The Owner's Manual? Also, what is SOA?
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:11 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benji131807

What book are you speaking of? The Owner's Manual? Also, what is SOA?
The warranty book. It's separate from the owner's manual.
SOA = Subaru Of America
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:19 AM   #44
left footed whooten
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06 WRX wagon
P2444
P1410

Came on coincidentally after cleaning and oiling my K&N.

Had codes read and cleared, came back on within 2 hours, then went off that night, then on again the next day, off again another day later, on the next.

Disconnected battery for 30 min to reset ecu, drove 110miles, no CEL, so took it directly into the shop for smog, didnt pass on the technicality of not being done running its tests after resetting. Intent on bringing it back the next day for a mulligan, the damn CEL came on when I started it this am.

I dont think Id qualify for the 'goodwill' warranty at 147K mi, and our local suby dealer in Reno is notorious for poor cust svc and poor honesty, just generally poor. Besides, its in NV, I live in CA and bought it in CA and its CA car.

There is no part of these pumps that are serviceable are there? Theyre R&R parts arent they?

Car is bone stock except K&N, never had a CEL or any problems at all. Lots of dusty conditions in how and where I drive, but very dry here, little to no humidity except during our winter snowdumps, up to 850" 2010-2011.

Any suggestions or ideas? Im also unclear on the whole block off plate thing...is it legal or is it undetectable or what?

Last edited by left footed whooten; 07-12-2012 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:37 PM   #45
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I just got the P1410 code. Dealer is going to take a look at it tomorrow. They said worst case scenario (the valve under the intake manifold) would cost $590.

That's way lower than the $1200 quotes ive been seeing people posting about.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:39 PM   #46
left footed whooten
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My dealer checked it, estimate was $2200. SOA will hook me up 50% for $1100. Works for me, with 145k on my odometer. Not as good as others for $750, but Im glad I get anything at all with my mileage. I just have to pay initially, then get reimbursed.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:40 PM   #47
radd269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left footed whooten View Post
My dealer checked it, estimate was $2200. SOA will hook me up 50% for $1100. Works for me, with 145k on my odometer. Not as good as others for $750, but Im glad I get anything at all with my mileage. I just have to pay initially, then get reimbursed.
Had my smog pump removed about two months ago; I was afraid it was going to fail open and cause detonation.

My tuner charged me about $280 for the labor and the plates. deleted the codes, reset the monitors. passed smog with no issues
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:29 PM   #48
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Im just going to fix mine. All proper-like.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #49
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question. 06 forester xt. code p2431. seems to be a secondary air pump code.

would this cause the car to misfire? i dont get a misfire code but the engine is clearly missing and this is the code it comes up with.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:38 PM   #50
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I ended up buying a second hand setup for my 06 and that was maybe 100k miles ago. Replacing both valves, the pump and the fuse. The pump seized and blew the fuse.

It's not too difficult to do yourself if you take the intake manifold off.
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