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Old 02-01-2010, 12:08 AM   #1
motohippy
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central NJ
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2000 OBS
'88 BMW K75S

Default Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Walkthrough, with pics

What follows is a step-by-step walk-through for the replacement of a rear wheel bearing in a 2000 OBS. The procedure was taken directly from Subaru document MSA5TT0201, available at http://endwrench.com/current/Current6/03/WhBearRep.pdf. You'll be best off referring to this to get exact measurements, torque values, etc. I used the Harbor Freight bearing puller kit, which I'm assuming is basically a cheap knockoff of the Subaru specified OTC kit, or the Hub Shark. As always, YMMV. If I've missed anything, PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO TELL ME. I'd rather feel like a jackass, than give bad advice that may hurt anyone or cause any damage.

Tools needed:
The usual metric 1/2 drive sockets (including 32mm for axle nut)
Breaker bar (2 footer worked for me)
Floor jack, jackstands, and chocks
Slide hammer with appropriate hub pulling adaptor (available to rent at auto zone)
5 ton 2/3 jaw puller (available to rent at auto zone)
Bearing puller ($80 at Harbor Freight, way the hell more anywhere else)
Seal driver
Bearing splitter.
Allen/Hex key set or sockets for removing ABS ring.
If you haven't removed your lateral link bolt recently/ever, you may also need:
PB Blaster
Big F---ing Hammer

Parts (all available from subarugenuineparts.com)
New Bearing
New Outer Seal
New Inner #1 seal
New Inner #2 seal
New Circlip
New Axle Nut
(optional) New Lateral Link Bolt/nut

Procedure:
1. Before lifting car, loosen lugs, unstake and break axle nut free with breaker bar
2. Chock front wheels and lift car, place stands.
3. Remove wheel and axle nut. (Release parking brake if not already done)
4. Remove brake disc/drum. If the disc/drum is sticky, thread a 8mm bolt into one of the provided holes to break it free. It works best to alternately tighten the bolt from each side to free the disc/drum up evenly.
5. Remove the bolt holding the ABS wire and parking brake cable bracket to the trailing arm. This will make getting at the lateral link bolt a hell of a lot easier.
6. Remove the lateral link bolt. In my case, this was far, far easier said than done. Apply PB Blaster whereever you can, and just work at it til it comes free. In my case, it took several hours of twisting one end with a breaker bar while beating the other with a 5lb hammer to get it free. It may help to jack the knuckle up to take some of the load off the bolt, and reduce the amount of play it has as work beat on it.
7. Once you have the bolt out, pull the knuckle outwards until you can remove the axle from it. Let the axle hang free below the knuckle, then put the bolt back in. In my case, when I pulled the axle out of the knuckle, it also came out of the diff. Fortunately, it went back in and locked. Have to wonder how long that was going on. Scary.
8. Attach the hub adapter and slide hammer to the hub, and pull the hub free of the bearing. The inner race of the bearing will come with the hub. Set this aside for the time being.
9. Remove the outer seal, snap ring, and both inner seals from the bearing housing.
10. Assemble the bearing puller. (instructions here will be specific to the HF kit)
10a. Use the two rings on the left of the case. The larger of the two will fit (very tightly) over the bearing housing, and the inner will fit inside it, resting on the edge of the bearing housing. The grooves on the rings will face towards the outside. Fit the round plate found above the rings inside, and insert the puller bolt through the bearing.
The appropriate puller adapter will fit over the inner race of the bearing, clearing the retaining ring inside the bearing housing.
Place the flat side of the adapter against the bearing, and thread the nut onto the bolt.
11. Brace a wrench in the endlink, and use a breaker bar to get the bearing moving. Once it is, you should be able to use a ratchet to get it the rest of the way out, without needing too much force. After a bit of turning, the bearing shell and inner race will end up in your hands.
Clean everything out thoroughly. Dirt and bearings do not mix.
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Last edited by motohippy; 11-25-2010 at 10:45 PM. Reason: Updated link to SOA instructions
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:10 AM   #2
motohippy
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central NJ
Vehicle:
2000 OBS
'88 BMW K75S

Default part 2. Installation

12. Assemble the puller for the installation of the new bearing. Outer:
Inner:

13. Pull the new bearing into the bearing housing. You should feel the bearing pull up against the inner retaining ring when you've gone far enough. The bearing is all the way in when the edge of the bearing shell is flush with the back of the circlip groove.
14. Install the circlip into the bearing housing. If it doesn't set in properly, the bearing isn't fully in.
15. Install the outer seal. When fully installed, the seal will be flush with the bearing housing.
Once the seal is in, you can remove the plastic bearing stay from the inside of the bearing using the head of the puller bolt.
16. Remove the ABS tone ring from the hub.
17. Remove the old race from the bearing. I set up a ghetto press by bolting the hub back onto the wheel, and using a 2 jaw puller attached to a bearing splitter. A 1 1/8" socket happens to fit the top of the hub nicely.
18. Reinstall the tone ring to the hub.
19. Set up the puller to pull the hub back into the knuckle. This will be basically the same as to pull the bearing into the hub. Use the adapter ring which fit the inner race, as this will keep the race from being dislodged as the hub is pulled through. When done, the end of the hub will protrude slightly past the inner edge of the race, but not past the outer edge of the race. See the SOA guide for a better description.
20. Install the inner #1 seal.
21. Install the inner #2 seal.
22. Remove the lateral link bolt, and reinstall the axle.
23. Replace and torque down the lateral link bolt.
24. Replace the brake disc/drum and axle nut. Tighten down axle nut but do not torque. Replace wheel.
25. Torque axle nut and lug nuts.
26. Enjoy your new, quiet ride.

Last edited by motohippy; 02-01-2010 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:44 AM   #3
txl146
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Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

Thanks for the write up. I should be receiving my FH bearing puller kit tomorrow.

Question:
1. How did you install 3 oil seals? you didn't specify if you used any tools to install them.

2. Can you provide more detail (or picture) of step #8? I am not sure how you were able to remove the hub.

Thanks,
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:01 AM   #4
motohippy
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2000 OBS
'88 BMW K75S

Default

I installed the oil seals using a seal driver, appropriately sized sockets are also pretty popular.
To pull the hub: The hub pulling adapter for the slide hammer is bolted to the hub using 3 of the studs.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&brandName=OEM
The slide hammer then threads into the middle of that, and you bang the weight on the slide hammer outward until the hub is free.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:28 PM   #5
txl146
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Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

Thanks - do you have any picture of this step?
"The slide hammer then threads into the middle of that, and you bang the weight on the slide hammer outward until the hub is free."

Is it as easy as what's shown in this video?


I just bought a seal driver, but have difficult time visualizing how slide hammer works... here is the kit I am considering to purchase.

Amazon.com: Advanced Tool Design Model  ATD-3045  Slide Hammer Puller Set in Blow Molded Case: AutomotiveAmazon.com: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-3045 Slide Hammer Puller Set in Blow Molded Case: Automotive

Last edited by txl146; 02-01-2010 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:21 PM   #6
txl146
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Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

Here is rough estimate on total cost:

1. $90 HF bearing puller kit
2. ~$80 Slide hammer & adapter
3. $35 Seal driver
4. $30 3 point jaws
5. $30 split bearing attachment

$260 for total tools needed in order to replace bearing (or you can just rent them). ROI is about 3 replacements as dealer charges around $80-90 / knuckle for labor. You can also argue local shops may charge just $20-30/ knuckle.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:07 PM   #7
halfaxle
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Default

Thanks a Lot. This is exactly what I needed. The passenger side rear on my 97 OBS is going wom wom wom.

Just a question, did you try the 2/3 jaw puller to get the lateral link bolt out? I remember reading somewhere about someone using this method successfully.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:11 PM   #8
txl146
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Don't think jaw puller will work since there is no space for jaw to grab onto the bolt. I ended up just removing the lateral link from the rear sub-frame, which was a lot easier. On rear right side though, I lucked out as I was able to easily free the bolt using corded impact gun.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:30 PM   #9
halfaxle
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Default

I think the idea is to grab the link and push the bolt out.
Here I found it

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/124391...-repair-3.html

I think this could possibly be the best way of getting the bolt out along with some PB blaster treatment for a few days.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:59 PM   #10
txl146
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That makes sense. Thanks for the link.
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Old 02-04-2010, 09:19 PM   #11
motohippy
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2000 OBS
'88 BMW K75S

Default

Sorry for the delay. . .was out of town and away from the computer.
For what it's worth, I rented the slide hammer, hub adapter, and 2/3 jaw puller from autozone. . .shaved $125 off my bill.
txl---The video is about all there is to it. Takes a few more shots to get it the hub free, but it'll come out.
Halfaxle---I tried the puller on the lateral link bolt as showed in the RS2.5 link, but it didn't really work for me. . .On the other hand, it might have helped to free things up, especially on the forward lateral link. Try supporting the knuckle on a floor jack, with the links parallel to the ground, as you work at it---once I did this things seemed to go a lot quicker.
My favorite thing about going about it this way is that you don't need to remove the knuckle from the car. I really don't like taking drum brakes apart. . .
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:29 PM   #12
txl146
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Junior Tuned 301whp

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This should be sticky....

I will be tackling mine shortly.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:36 PM   #13
Garage Spec
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great write up!!
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:37 PM   #14
Kenji815
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would it be cheaper to by a hydraulic press from habor freight to tackle press in and out the hub and bearing??
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:37 AM   #15
motohippy
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'88 BMW K75S

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenji815 View Post
would it be cheaper to by a hydraulic press from habor freight to tackle press in and out the hub and bearing??
Maybe. My main issue with using a press here is, to quote, "This new procedure eliminates the heavy forces needed to service the rear wheel bearings that occur when using a hydraulic press. This smooth, low force installation eliminates the chances of deforming the wheel bearing housing and increases the efficiency of the repair." (Endwrench). Maybe the press would be cheaper, but I'm not inclined to argue with factory engineers. Also, doing it this way means you can leave the knuckle on the car, and this cuts the PITA factor involved with that way back (especially for those of us with older, salted cars). As far as it being cheaper---the only tool you actually NEED to buy is the bearing puller, and the price on that is about the same as the cheapest HF press. The rest you can rent for free at your local Autozone or Advance.
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:49 PM   #16
halfaxle
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Default This thread has gorilla glue..Stick it !!

Quote:
Originally Posted by motohippy View Post
Try supporting the knuckle on a floor jack, with the links parallel to the ground, as you work at it---once I did this things seemed to go a lot quicker.
This is a brilliant suggestion. I know the rust can jam stuff up pretty bad, but once the load is off the link bolt, The rust by itself should not pose such a huge problem.


+1 For Sticky!!
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:08 PM   #17
txl146
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motohippy,

I have rented slide hammer with flange from both Autozone and advance auto part, but flage did not clear WRX hub studs.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:20 AM   #18
motohippy
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'88 BMW K75S

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
motohippy,

I have rented slide hammer with flange from both Autozone and advance auto part, but flage did not clear WRX hub studs.
Are you sure you got the right flange? The guy gave me the wrong one initially, but I just checked it in the parking lot (yay steelies). The one you need from autozone is http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?counter=0&categoryDisplayNam e=Tools&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=2050_0_0_ &productId=2050&sortType=&parentId=6-10&filterByKeyWord=27037&categoryNValue=100006&nav Value=101255&fromWhere=&itemId=1255-10&displayName=Axle+Flange+Puller&store=1677&skuDi splayName=FWD+Hub+Puller&brandName=OEM
You'll need to take the screw out from this one, and thread your slide hammer in.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:47 PM   #19
txl146
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Looks like they gave me a wrong one. Thanks for posting the link for the correct flange adapter.
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:03 PM   #20
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Is it possible to use this method for the front wheel bearings as well??
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:26 AM   #21
motohippy
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ragejed. . .I'm really not sure. I'm not all that familiar with the front knuckle in general, or anything >01 at all. Not saying it won't, just saying I don't know either way.
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:30 AM   #22
txl146
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It should work as HF tool is sold to be used on front wheel bearing replacement.
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:20 PM   #23
iluvdrt
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OK, cool. I got it now. I re-read everything. Good write up man.

Last edited by iluvdrt; 03-18-2010 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:24 PM   #24
motohippy
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Glad to help. . .good luck finishing the replacement
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:38 PM   #25
FourOnTheFloor65
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I don't mean to scare anyone away from doing this, but I had a lot of fun with the last one I changed about a year ago. I pressed the bearing and hub out of the knuckle. Then I went to pull the old bearing off the hub and the inner race was seized on to it. I must have heated the damn thing with a torch for 20 min, tried 3 different pullers, and put it on a 20 ton press (where I bent a bearing splitter). Finally I put the hub on a lathe and cut the race off.
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