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Old 03-18-2010, 10:50 PM   #26
motohippy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourOnTheFloor65 View Post
I don't mean to scare anyone away from doing this, but I had a lot of fun with the last one I changed about a year ago. I pressed the bearing and hub out of the knuckle. Then I went to pull the old bearing off the hub and the inner race was seized on to it. I must have heated the damn thing with a torch for 20 min, tried 3 different pullers, and put it on a 20 ton press (where I bent a bearing splitter). Finally I put the hub on a lathe and cut the race off.
Damn. . .I feel lucky that mine came apart with a s***-rigged puller/splitter and not all that much effort
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:03 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragejed View Post
Is it possible to use this method for the front wheel bearings as well??
Here is a link to a front bearing job by removing the knuckle from the car:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070

I think you could use the method described here for the rears on the front but you would need to remove the front axle from the bearing. There are many ways to do that including dropping the lower control arm, disconnecting the strut bolts (mark the top one before removing it) and other ways that others will say in the comments.

Some of the newer Subaru's have removable bearing/mounts that are bolted on at some wheels (2005+up both front and rear have bolted bearing carriers) that makes the pressed in job not necessary.

If anyone has done the front ones on a 95-99 using this type of method it would be good to know.
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:05 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motohippy View Post
Damn. . .I feel lucky that mine came apart with a s***-rigged puller/splitter and not all that much effort
You could install a new hub as part of this job, may be necessary to prevent a damaged hub from killing your newly installed bearing early.
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Old 03-19-2010, 05:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker104 View Post
You could install a new hub as part of this job, may be necessary to prevent a damaged hub from killing your newly installed bearing early.
I only payed $500 for the car. I wasn't about to have a wheel bearing job cost half what I payed for the car. The lathe didn't damage the hub at all, or I would have grabbed another rear knuckle from my house and used the hub from it.
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:31 AM   #30
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My biggest problem is with that stupid long lateral link bolt. I can NEVER get that bolt to just slide out. It is always rusted to the bushing eye. If that bolt doesnt come out it is extremely hard to get the axle out.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:57 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker104 View Post
Here is a link to a front bearing job by removing the knuckle from the car:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070

I think you could use the method described here for the rears on the front but you would need to remove the front axle from the bearing. There are many ways to do that including dropping the lower control arm, disconnecting the strut bolts (mark the top one before removing it) and other ways that others will say in the comments.

Some of the newer Subaru's have removable bearing/mounts that are bolted on at some wheels (2005+up both front and rear have bolted bearing carriers) that makes the pressed in job not necessary.

If anyone has done the front ones on a 95-99 using this type of method it would be good to know.
2005 WRX are pressed in, not bolt in.

I picked up my bearing press kit at harbor freight on the way home from SC yesterday. Now I just need all the bearings and seals, lol
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:08 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by iluvdrt View Post
My biggest problem is with that stupid long lateral link bolt. I can NEVER get that bolt to just slide out. It is always rusted to the bushing eye. If that bolt doesnt come out it is extremely hard to get the axle out.
You need a BFH, breaker bar, lots and lots of PB Blaster, and your floor jack. I found that jacking the knuckle about parallel to the ground helped the process of beating the s*** out of it while turning it as much as possible to work it out... It'll go, might just take a while. Helps to have a new bolt handy (around $30 from my local dealer. probably less online, but I needed it right then)
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:53 PM   #33
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Believe me. I have all that stuff. I never tired jacking up a little though. The thing is, is most of my cars come from heavily salted northern roads. The bushing center rust welds itsself to the bolt, and breaks the bushing if I ckeep rotating it. Usually I get the nut side off, and can manuver the lateral links enough to slide the front ward one off. Then I just slide the hub and axle off together.

I use a bearing press for the bearings. Much easier. I am getting to the point where ease>time. 'll waste a few extra minutes if it makes the job easier.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:19 PM   #34
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FWIW, mine didn't come free til I jacked it. It seems like that takes some load off the bolt. I had 2-3 hours of pounding in before I did, after that it was like 15 minutes, with things actually moving.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:26 AM   #35
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you can also unbolt lateral link from the rear subframe if long bolt is fused. That's how I removed knuckle to install new axle.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:33 AM   #36
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edit: nevermind, I found a way

Last edited by hoosierdude; 04-01-2010 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 05-01-2010, 09:04 AM   #37
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subscribed for future ref.
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Old 05-01-2010, 09:06 AM   #38
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well done sir!
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:26 AM   #39
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Thanks. . .It's nice to give a bit back considering how much I've learned here.
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Old 05-02-2010, 01:41 AM   #40
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"... remove the old race from the bearing..."

Question - your picture shows hub that you removed came off with old race. Is it possible just to remove the hub without affecting the bearing?
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:17 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
"... remove the old race from the bearing..."

Question - your picture shows hub that you removed came off with old race. Is it possible just to remove the hub without affecting the bearing?
I really don't think so. The inner bearing race is pressed onto the hub. Assuming no part of the bearing is damaged when you pull the hub (huge assumption right there), I guess it might be possible to get it to all go back together again. . .assuming you keep everything spotlessly clean, and can figure out a way to get enough grease back into the bearing races while everything is apart. I wouldn't recommend it, though. . .
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:35 AM   #42
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I am asking because there was a post about someone replacing backing plate in order to install 06 backing plate on 02-05 rear knuckle to install 2 pot caliper. He was able to remove the hub and re-install it back without any damage done to the bearing.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:12 AM   #43
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I'm not saying it won't go back together. . .I'd be interested to see a follow-up post in 5-10K miles on how the bearing is lasting.
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:46 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Thanks - do you have any picture of this step?
"The slide hammer then threads into the middle of that, and you bang the weight on the slide hammer outward until the hub is free."

Is it as easy as what's shown in this video?
A little late but this is mine with slide hammer set in position.
Bolt to the hub then just hammer it out, quite easy.
So far.....
Lateral link bolts, easy
1 bolt sheared off in Brembo
Inner race pulled of hub easily

Waiting on tool to reassemble





Inner race (cannot remove hub without race I think)

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Old 06-09-2010, 09:21 PM   #45
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Are the oem bearing already packed with the proper grease? Or can anyor recommend a good bearin grease??
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Old 06-10-2010, 12:30 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Kenji815 View Post
Are the oem bearing already packed with the proper grease? Or can anyor recommend a good bearin grease??
They are pre-packed.
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Old 06-10-2010, 01:12 PM   #47
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thanks.. after some search i guess rear bearing are prepacked and people usually repack the fronts with redline or higher temp grease.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:29 PM   #48
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Some tips.
i got the same bearing pulling kit from HF.
to pull the bad bearing out.
I first slide the bigger of the two sleeve that goes over the knuckle and 955-08 in the back.
Once the bearing was pulled out half way. i used the smaller of the two sleeve that braces perfectly on the lip of the bearing housing on the knukcle and 955-08 to pull the bearing completely.
If you try to use two sleeve at the same time the bolt isn't long enough to reach to the back of the knuckle.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow to illustrate.

have air tool helps alot.


another way to pull the hub off the knuckle from the nissan 2 pot thread
I used a 3 jaw puller to pull my hub off.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...t=nissan+2+pot

Quote:


use the puller and you will want to stop because you think you might break something but keep going. i found it was good to stop back all the way off reset the axle and continue the process. make sure you are on a good surface because your going to hear some creaking and moving. when you get to the point that you think you are going to break something the hub will pop off. (this is not for the faint of heart)

Last edited by Kenji815; 06-12-2010 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:22 AM   #49
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Easiest way to deal with the lateral link bolt is to buy a new one and a new rear outer bushing from the start (~$60 for both) and cut the old one to remove it. Takes 5 minutes and saves lots of aggravation.
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:34 AM   #50
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i've got a beater 97 impreza outback in need of a rear wheel bearing...

i had planned on getting a rear hub with bearing intact from the salvage yard (found one off an '01 with 68,000 miles on it for $50.00) and fixing my bearing problem that way...

would this work? (i thought it would but am not sure, never having done it)

all i'm looking for is another year or 2 out of my abused subie...

thank you in advance.

Scott
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