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Old 09-22-2010, 04:58 PM   #51
ragejed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnusson View Post
i've got a beater 97 impreza outback in need of a rear wheel bearing...

i had planned on getting a rear hub with bearing intact from the salvage yard (found one off an '01 with 68,000 miles on it for $50.00) and fixing my bearing problem that way...

would this work? (i thought it would but am not sure, never having done it)

all i'm looking for is another year or 2 out of my abused subie...

thank you in advance.

Scott
You might need an alignment afterwards.
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Old 09-25-2010, 04:25 PM   #52
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i'm having a hard time seperating the axle from the knuckle. its just suppose to slide in right? i've tryed using an air hammer and its not moving at all. so i tryed dreanching it with pb blaster, no dice. will heating the knuckle up help to loosing it? but i dont want to heat it up and the axle boot will melt off.
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:47 AM   #53
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Just did a rear wheel bearing last night. I made it more of a PITA than it needed to be. I had read this thread months ago b/c I knew this job was ahead of me... but I didn't re-read it before starting the job... doh.

So, I took a lot longer double, triple, quadruple checking stuff as I went... just added lots of time.

I had forgotten, for instance, that the rear hubs have the snap-ring on the outside, vs. the inside on the fronts of 'regular' Imprezas (and '04 STis). So, I was stumped for a while trying to figure out how the thing would even come apart, and didn't want to start the job unless I was sure I could finish it in one evening.

Eventually, I started anyway.. got the hub out, saw the snap ring on the 'outside', and went "whew.. ok."


Of note, when I ordered all the parts to do this (from one of the online Suby parts houses, I think maybe 'subarupartsforyou'??), it only came with 2 seals, not 3. Looking on that website (just now), it even says "3 seals" in the description, but names only 2 parts in the diagram... the outer and inner(most) seals.

Doing a quick google, I found no mention of a 3rd seal for STis... so, either I am missing one now, or they don't have one for this application (I have an 05 STi, in case I didn't mention that).

Beyond that, everything else looks pretty much the same near as I recall.

I also used the same HF-bearing puller kit as the OP... worked well, once I sorted out which adapters and so on to use... which also ate up some time.

I've done lots of front bearings on WRX's over the years for friends, never had to do rears.. usually pawned that off on the dealer "meh... go to the dealer for the rears, I hear it's a huge PITA..". Mine weren't that bad if I ignore all the self-inflicted time-delay.

My lat-link bolt... no sweat.. came right out.. still looks golden in color. That said, my car only has about 46K on it, garage kept, non-snow environment.
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:41 PM   #54
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wow i wish i had that tool so i could replace the wheel bearing with hub still attached to the car. i had to pull the hub and used a press to push the bearing out and press the new one in, then reinstall the hub.

good write up!
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:50 PM   #55
riverfever
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Has anyone purchased the bearing puller kit from HF recently? I don't see it on their site. Anyone have a part # for it?
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:09 PM   #56
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The HF part# is 66829, they call it "FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters". Price is up to $99 now. . .
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:46 PM   #57
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Motohippy, this is a great writeup, thanks for taking the time to document this- it's given me the confidence to go through with this myself.

One note, I'm ordering tools from Harbor Freight today, and there are a couple coupon codes that can ease the pain. In addition to the 66829 bearing installer kit, there's a slide hammer/puller jaw kit (5223) that has a hub puller attachment and 2 and 3 jaw puller attachments. It's $69.99. The codes I used are 'SHOP20' on the 66829 kit and 'EXTRA15' on the 5223 kit. This cut 30 off the final price. Not sure how long these codes will work, but every bit helps.
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:49 AM   #58
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Ok, it's not easy to admit, but I'm worried I've borked one of my new bearings. I got my forum threads mixed up and thought it was necessary to pack grease in the new rear bearings, but I've just read through MSA5TT0201, specifically the part where it says to NOT do that. I got part way done with one bearing before I had to call it quits for the day, and thankfully came back to the thread and read further. I packed it with a grade GC-LB grease.

The question is, is the bearing a lost cause? Is there something special about the prepacked grease? Would mixing the greases lead to early bearing failure? If so, is it feasible to clean them out by soaking in mineral spirits and then repacking with all-new grease?
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:07 AM   #59
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Shouldn't be the end of the world, as long as you're using a grease speced for bearing service. I could be completely off-base here, but I don't think the rear bearings see anywhere near the heat or stress of the fronts. Anyone more knowledgeable care to chime in?
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Old 06-01-2011, 01:09 AM   #60
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Question - what's the best way to remove circlip from the bearing?
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:07 AM   #61
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I used a circlip tool, but you should be able to get away with some fine-pointed needle nose pliers.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:32 PM   #62
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Curious how long on average people have taken to do 1 rear wheel bearing ? ET
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:36 PM   #63
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Given your salt-free location, shouldn't take more than a few hours. Pretty much all of the hangups I had were related to frozen bolts.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:50 PM   #64
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Cool. Bearing + seals are on the way.

Autozone should have all the tools I need.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:31 PM   #65
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Alrighty, I replaced the passenger rear bearing last year mid summer and the long bolt on the bottom of the spindle was well interesting..... I eventually got it out by screwing it out and pulling on it with what ever I had there at the time. Pressing the old bearing out and the new bearing in wasn't that hard. Bolted everything back together with the right specs and it was ready to go.

Fast forward to now. The driver's side rear bearing has been on its way out for a while now....along with the driver's front. I ordered two bearings kits from a vendor on Rs25.com and they were pretty good quality! I however repacked the bearing rear bearing for now with the supplied grease as the grease in the bearing isn't the greatest...Finally found an answer to how to take apart a bearing. It was actually pretty easy just have to pay attention to not mark up stuff...lol! Got it repacked and pressed the new one in along with the hub including the "3" seals 1 outer and 2 inner. I put some grease in between the 2 inner seals to trap any debris right there so it doesn't get into the bearing. I did this with the passenger rear one and it is holding up great so far. I did put a very thin layer of grease on the hub before pressing it into the inner race of the bearing which helped! Going to be putting it back on the car this evening hopefully

For the long bolt, put the copper colored anti-seize on it before putting it in, just don't get some on the threads for the nut at the end... Trust me, it helps if you have to remove that long bolt again!!
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:17 PM   #66
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Thanx for the stellar write up!
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:22 PM   #67
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Thanks! Glad it worked for you. I've learned so much here, glad to give something back to the community.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:41 AM   #68
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Great writeup and pics. I have that bearing remover kit but decided to use the press at work. I've done many bearings for customer vehicles but the second time I decide to change mine I do something wrong. I used new oem rear bearings and seals but when I try and tighten the cv nuts the hubs bind pretty hard. I can turn the hub but there is a lot of friction. Its like this on both sides. The bearings that were replaced were done by me as well several years back, and they didn't have this issue. I am just changing them because I'm reinstalling the awd components and upgraded calipers, rotors, coilovers, etc. Its almost like the cv is hitting the inner seal but when I remove everything the inner seal isn't damaged. I also don't see how I could have mixed the inner and outers because I believe all three seals had different outer diameters. I ordered new bearings and hubs already but it would be nice to know wtf could have possibly happened. Even if I had mixed the inner and outer seals I would have to replace the bearings to get things right. What a week this has been.

Edit: Apparently the two innermost (closer to the diff) seals have to be pressed in the opposite orientation as the other two. The links weren't working for me when I was doing the job so I installed them same as the others. After getting two new inner seals I pressed them in (be sure to use plenty of axle grease on them, or they'll squeal at low speeds) and everything is good. The shoulders of those seals were rubbing hard on the cvs causing the excessive friction.

Last edited by 2slofouru; 01-29-2012 at 02:26 PM. Reason: links for pics started working so got it straightened out :)
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:17 PM   #69
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motohippy....hello, I just wanted to say that your post is spot on, and a great piece. The job is a easy one to perform, everything went smooth, untillll... I pressed in the bearing, and then the hub, and found that the hub was quite flexable in the knuckle. Did you experience this?? It does not seem right that there would be movement of the hub like it was in a rubber bearing, as there is play in all directions. do you have any idea as to why this would be?? Thank you very much for your response, as my car is still in the air. Help please, any and all input greatly appreciated !! PS I have a 1997 sub impreza outback sport. And by the way, I dont understand your steps 10 and 11, the pics show you pulling the bearing out of what? I dont see the knuckle, so I am confused on those pics. But my biggist problem is with your step 19, I understand the picture, but not your quote.."Use the adapter ring which fit the inner race, as this will keep the race from being dislodged as the hub is pulled through. Is this what my problem is, and can you explain it better so that I might uderstand what your talking about? Thanks!!!!

Last edited by rockinsub; 01-29-2012 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:25 PM   #70
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When pressing the hub into the bearing you have to use the inner race of the bearing as the holding/support area and not the knuckle. Is that how you did it? If you use the knuckle instead, it will distort the bearings and the inner races won't be tight together.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
When pressing the hub into the bearing you have to use the inner race of the bearing as the holding/support area and not the knuckle. Is that how you did it? If you use the knuckle instead, it will distort the bearings and the inner races won't be tight together.
I did it exactly like the walk thru said to do, in step 12. Are you saying that when I press in the bearing, the pressure should be on the inside race of the bearing, and not on the outer lip of the bearing housing?? second, I dont understand "When pressing the hub into the bearing you have to use the inner race of the bearing as the holding/support area and not the knuckle" I am confused here.. I dont undertand what you are saying clearly? when seating the bearing, one threds the bolt tru the front plate and out the back and thru another plate on the knuckle, so you can pull/press the bearing in, as you tighten it, it is pressed/pulled into the knuckle, and seats up agaisnt the lip in the rear of the knucle, then the snap ring goes in. And then you do the same thing and press/pull the hub into place.as in step 12. What am I missing here?? Thanks by the way for your response.

Last edited by rockinsub; 01-29-2012 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:17 AM   #72
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Sorry for the slow reply, was away from the computer all weekend. Once you have the bearing fully installed, with the snap-ring in, you will want to pull the hub into the bearing. To do this, you NEED to seat the inboard side of the puller on the inner bearing race, and NOT on the knuckle---if you seat the tool on the knuckle the inner race will just be pushed out as the hub comes in.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:22 PM   #73
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Hey there Moto,

Excellent write up. Im having a little problem with there being a bit play on the inner races when the bearing is pressed into the knuckle before I remove the plastic lock inside the bearing, and before the seals and hub are installed. Its not a lot of play, but enough to worry me and make me halt my install.

Im not sure if thats normal, and if the axle nut just tightens it all back together, but I wanted to get it figured out before I put the seals in and press the hub back on. It would be the worst to press the hub on, and have to take it all back apart and buy a new bearing.

There was no play in the hub/wheel/bearing when I pulled the bad one out. Just the typical bad bearing noise. When the bearing is not installed, it seems like there are no problems. There is no play on the inner races, and it appears to be functioning bearing.

Any thoughts?


-Kaya
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:46 AM   #74
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Kaya,
In my experience, the inner race does have a bit of play in it---that's why the retainer is there in the first place. The pressure/preload from the axle nut will hold everything together firmly.
Good Luck!
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:07 AM   #75
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Fantastic.

I finished the job up yesterday. When the hub pressed in the bearing tightened up. Everything else went without a hitch. I didnt buy a new hub...... Im a little nervous about that.

It was definitively a learning experience for me. When I get laid off in the winter, I find myself taking on more and more of these type of things to pass the time.

I think the funniest part about it all is that I did an entire timing kit last winter in less time than it took me install a wheel bearing this winter.

All things considered, its really not too hard. Im confident that I could to the other side in 2-2.5 hours without problems. This tutorial was a big help, and its nice to have a fixed fozzy.



-Kaya
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