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Old 02-11-2013, 05:47 PM   #126
mhoerath
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2003 354 ftlb@3k rpm
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somewhere nasioc there's a spec the hub is bad or good depending on inside diameter. sorry cannot remember where. might even be this thread.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:44 PM   #127
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Thanks - pin that came with replacement axle (EMPI) has no tapered end. Both ends look identical.
I don't know if you figured this out or not, it's a little late now, but the holes for the roll pins on these axles are drilled OFF CENTER... If you can not get the pin past the 1/4" point, you have to pull the axle off the stub and rotate it 180* and put it back... then it slides right through like it should...

I thought I might add this for any future reference..(I don't know why I'm posting this in a rear wheel bearing replacement thread, but there it is)
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:07 PM   #128
CNY_Dave
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I have a bit of advice, it might just be my wariness about applying force through the balls for install-

There is an adapter in the HF kit that will push on the outer race but will not push on the inner race. I use this to get the bearing in to the point where the adapter bottoms on the outer part of the housing, then I remove the tool and use the old outer race cleaned up with the bearings removed to push it the rest of the way. The housing is larger than the race until after the snap ring groove, so it does not get stuck.

I think some of the early second failures are from putting the install force through the balls and inner race.

A trick for a stuck race on the hub is to take a stick or mig welder and run a bead on the race, it'll pop right off.

Standard install info on any snap ring (it might have been said already) is to put the sharper edge against the part of the groove it holds force against, in this case towards the outside.
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