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Old 10-13-2010, 10:34 AM   #26
Dentt42
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Thanks for the part number, Willy!
The WRX diagram shows the "bad" one, but subaruparts.com doesn't go later than 2002 in their OEM look up system .

The part number by that look up is 34170FE020 (2002 WRX sedan/wagon), so at least we know which one not to get . I'm going to email them your part number and see if they can give me any more information.
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:41 AM   #27
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:02 PM   #28
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That's where my part numbers came from.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:09 PM   #29
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Didn't hear anything from subaruparts.com, I think I gave them too much "work". FWIW, I'll probably just go ahead and order Willy's PN, and post a picture of it so it'll be recorded somewhere on this board.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:51 PM   #30
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Hmm, so what exactly is the part #?

I have an 04 sti rack to put in my bugeye and I'll probably do this.
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:22 PM   #31
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I ended up with an '05 STi rack & coupler from a totalled, 28K mile car. the rack, lines, & coupler mounted up to my '04 WRX Wagon no problems.

I had both tie rod ends bent so I couldn't really "count" turns on the tie rod ends so I jmust adjusted them, set the car down... measured... took it back up.. adjusted... about 5 times.. got it close.

My car is FINALLY about all back together. the RCE springs just arrived last week. I ned to get them in & my adjustable rear (6) links, then take her up for alignment... then I can comment on feel.

I can tell everyone that on the 5.0/4.6 Mustangs with the same "rag-joint" vs a solid joint the feedback is staggering. In a good way. Not alot of the percieved NVH, but just great,. positive feel. I am expecting the same here... the better ratio STi rack is an added bonus. Since the yard was going to charge me the same for either rack. I did Whiteline rack bushings all @ the same time. I wanted the ALK & RCK but ran out of insurance $$ for the final parts.

eventually ALK, RCK, & sways front & rear will round out the set up.

Rob
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum626 View Post
Hmm, so what exactly is the part #?

I have an 04 sti rack to put in my bugeye and I'll probably do this.
Post #24
34170FE050
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:51 AM   #33
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I'm assuming that'll fit the 04 STi rack as well? I though it was just for 05-07.
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:26 PM   #34
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This is for the 08+ sti. Pic looks different, but I'm not sure if it will work on a GD car.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/

Part number is 34170FG010.

Tony
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:26 PM   #35
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I don't think the 08 linkage is the same length. should work on an 05-09 LGT though.

34170FE050 is coming up for me for both 04 and 05-07
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:45 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dentt42 View Post
It looks like this. The car in the pic is actually a Legacy GT, but this is a good shot and it's the same on a WRX.
EDIT: The coupler in this picture is the one WRX owners would want to upgrade to, I posted the crappy stock WRX one below.
That, however, is not a steering coupler that will fit a GD-chassis Impreza. The coupler for the GD Impreza has a SIGNIFICANTLY longer straight tube between the two joints.


Somehow, I hadn't seen your picture before. When this thread got bumped today, you freaked me out because the solid linkage I have waiting to go onto my own car (2005 2.5RS) is longer than that. Thankfully, I have a 2004 STi in the shop right now, so I just went out and looked down through the engine bay at the steering coupler. The coupler on the 04 STi is MUCH longer than the one you show in that picture and matches the one I have sitting on the coffee table.
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:23 AM   #37
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I posted it in response to some of the inquiries as to what type of part we were even talking about. It won out because it was taken with a good camera and properly lit.

I was trying to illustrate the difference in the styles of the two couplers and explain to those asking why it was even worth swapping out.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:54 PM   #38
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So I'm a bit confused here.... I didn't purchase the STi coupler since I was waiting for feedback. Anyone know any firsthand difference? Not sure if it's 'worth' the $180 for the solid piece.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:43 PM   #39
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ive never looked. i have a 2010 WRX, does it have this rubber linkage too? or solid metal like sti?
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
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I'm under the impression that the bottom plate of the WRX plastic coupling is one solid metal disc.
Be this the case, the only purpose of the coupling is to dampen motion up and down (axialy).
This is what I thought I saw when I installed my qrack. I was gearing up to find a solid coupling at the time.
One end might be, but if you look at how they are connected (very carfeully...) you'll see that the way the two plates are pinned to the rubber part and not to each other. So, it works in both axial and rotational directions. This is a very common type of flexible coupling for steering systems. Basically everyone uses some variation of this concept in one model or another.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:03 AM   #41
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I just looked up the part number for this. For the 05-07 STi, the listed part number is 34170FE050. However, the drawing doesn't draw that coupler any different than the RS or WRX one. Considering how half-assed some of these drawings are, though, that doesn't mean much. Someone needs to order one of that part number and see what shows up.

Also, does this have any impact on the steering column's ability to collapse during a crash?
No, that's not what it's there for. The STI part would work in a crash the same way the RS or WRX one would.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:50 AM   #42
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I think that all rivets are fastened at the bottom.
This already means that they can only move together. At the top, the half moon inserts (metal) seem to rest against the rivet bodies of the top piece, locking them.
I don't think any rubber gets compressed if you turn the assembly.
Now, if you push down, yes.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:51 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post


I think that all rivets are fastened at the bottom.
This already means that they can only move together. At the top, the half moon inserts (metal) seem to rest against the rivet bodies of the top piece, locking them.
I don't think any rubber gets compressed if you turn the assembly.
Now, if you push down, yes.
Nope, it must certainly compresses during turning. To the tune or 5 to 10 degrees either way. I cut mine out and replaced it with solid pieces. Much, much better.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:56 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler323 View Post
One end might be, but if you look at how they are connected (very carfeully...) you'll see that the way the two plates are pinned to the rubber part and not to each other. So, it works in both axial and rotational directions. This is a very common type of flexible coupling for steering systems. Basically everyone uses some variation of this concept in one model or another.
This is 100% correct.

Here are some better pictures that might illustrate what it does:






As you can see, each u-joint part is hard mounted to the plate on the opposite side of the rubber damper. That is to say the steering rack side u-joint is mounted to the thin metal plate on the steering column side and the steering column u-joint is hard mounted to the thin metal plate on the steering rack side. These thin metal plates have a bit of clearance in them around the rivets from the opposite side. The rubber is common among all four rivets. So, as the rubber compresses under load, the rivets can move relative to the thin metal plate they are not hard mounted to. When I had mine out and in the vice, I could flex it easily 5 to 10 degrees in a rotational motion. The unit does not/cannot compress in an axial motion by design.

Here is the unit cut apart (I cut all four rivets out):










Here is my damper delete solution. I'm hesitant to post these pictures because this is a product I'm hoping to sell. Let me know if you are interested. The latest version is welded in place of the bolts you see in the picture. It is a tad lighter than the damper assembly and should be much cheaper than the STi linkage new. It indexes the bottom u-joint portion 90 degrees, but this isn't a problem and it still installs on the steering rack side fine. Please don't rip my idea off!




Last edited by kpluiten; 02-26-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:15 PM   #45
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Ok, ok, the rivets are fastened on opposite sides and pass through on adjacent sides.
Good photos, thanks.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:42 PM   #46
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No problem.
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:21 AM   #47
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Quote:
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...The unit does not/cannot compress in an axial motion by design.

...It indexes the bottom u-joint portion 90 degrees, but this isn't a problem and it still installs on the steering rack side fine...
Actually, yes, it can and does compress axially. Not much mind you, but still, since the two shafts are only truly connected by rubber, they will move slightly in the axial direction.

Have you actually installed the shaft after 'indexing' the bottom portion 90 degrees and driven it around? Does the response feel any different?

Those shafts were indexed the way they were for a reason. Basically when u-joints are straight (i.e. basically never) both ends of the joint spin at the same speed. When u-joints are connecting two shafts at an angle to each other, the output shaft will spin at a different speed than the input shaft - and it switches back and forth from faster than the input to slower than the input. When you have 2 joints in a system you can index them in such a way that you can mostly cancel this out. Subaru had done this, but when you change the index by 90 degrees you throw their cancelling completely off.

The end effect is that with really bad indexing you may be able to tell that the effort required to turn the wheel will increase and decrease twice per revolution of the wheel. This is especially true if you keep your steering wheel tilted all the way up or down where the angles are the most severe. If you can't tell, great - ignorance is bliss! If you can tell and don't care, great - if it ain't broke don't fix it. If you can tell and it bothers you, you're going to need to put the indexing back the way it was somehow.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:01 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler323 View Post
Actually, yes, it can and does compress axially. Not much mind you, but still, since the two shafts are only truly connected by rubber, they will move slightly in the axial direction.

Have you actually installed the shaft after 'indexing' the bottom portion 90 degrees and driven it around? Does the response feel any different?

Those shafts were indexed the way they were for a reason. Basically when u-joints are straight (i.e. basically never) both ends of the joint spin at the same speed. When u-joints are connecting two shafts at an angle to each other, the output shaft will spin at a different speed than the input shaft - and it switches back and forth from faster than the input to slower than the input. When you have 2 joints in a system you can index them in such a way that you can mostly cancel this out. Subaru had done this, but when you change the index by 90 degrees you throw their cancelling completely off.

The end effect is that with really bad indexing you may be able to tell that the effort required to turn the wheel will increase and decrease twice per revolution of the wheel. This is especially true if you keep your steering wheel tilted all the way up or down where the angles are the most severe. If you can't tell, great - ignorance is bliss! If you can tell and don't care, great - if it ain't broke don't fix it. If you can tell and it bothers you, you're going to need to put the indexing back the way it was somehow.

Wow. This is a good point since u-joints are not true constant velocity joints. That is a great point that I had not considered. Double Cardan Shaft problem.

The good news is I have a few of these things sitting around. I had assembled one with a solid puck in place of the rubber, but I thought this solution might be a bit lighter and simpler to make. I bet you I will feel the action of the u-joint.

I was going to install it this week perhaps, but I would not be driving the car for a few weeks. Perhaps I will install the puck design instead. I will report back. And also see if I can get some pictures of the puck unit. Thanks for the heads up.

EDIT: I think we could take a more mathematical approach to this problem and see if it will actually be an issue. I think this coming week when i get the steering rack back in, I will try to measure the angle between the column and the intermediate shaft, and the intermediate shaft and the rack input. From here I should be able to understand the relationship between input velocity and output velocity or similarly, but less extreme in it's effect, input angle versus output angle. Sounds like a project.

Last edited by kpluiten; 02-27-2011 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:52 PM   #49
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if they put it stock on the STi, i wouldnt worry about the difference. its most likely negligible with power steering in the mix.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:37 PM   #50
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I swapped to the STi knuckle in my car on the weekend as I needed more room the fit a bigger dump pipe, steering feels more direct and solid.

wrx vs STi


STi knuckle installed
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