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Old 02-21-2010, 02:34 AM   #1
Aleksey
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Default Anyone here uses dino oil in their turbocharged Subies?

Do you use dino oil in your daily-driven (no racing) turbocharged Subie? AFAIK, Subaru does not recommend using synthetic, but everyone I know uses it. Why not to follow Subaru's recommendation? Not that I'm advocating for that-just asking. In essense my question is whether dino oil is bad for a turbocharged subie engine or not given that it's changed every 3-4K miles.
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Old 02-21-2010, 04:05 AM   #2
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They recommend synthetic? AFIAK it was a preference.
...This question could much easier be answered in your owners manual or using forum search. But other than giving you that vague and general post whorish search answer I really recommend bobistheoilguy.com . NASIOC will give you the Subie specific info you need, as you already know. However ive spent hours on bobistheoilguy.com forum getting the in depth analysis and some really interesting reading (not all necessarily about OIL)
From hours and hours of reading and looking through oil analysis etc all I have come to know for sure is to stick to my Rotella T Synth and never go back. I switched to Rotella T dino oil in my RX7 too and its had nothing but love for it.

Last edited by relliMmoT; 02-21-2010 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:26 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleksey View Post
Do you use dino oil in your daily-driven (no racing) turbocharged Subie? AFAIK, Subaru does not recommend using synthetic, but everyone I know uses it. Why not to follow Subaru's recommendation? Not that I'm advocating for that-just asking. In essense my question is whether dino oil is bad for a turbocharged subie engine or not given that it's changed every 3-4K miles.

got any reference for that dino oil recommendation? not in my owners manual at least. ESPECIALLY in turbo cars, synth oil is generally recommended.
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Old 02-21-2010, 10:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleksey View Post
AFAIK, Subaru does not recommend using synthetic,
Nope, they say its OK to use synthetic but you should still follow the same change intervals as for dino oil. That's every 3750 miles for turbo cars. IMO if you are going to change the oil that often, there's not much benefit to using synthetic.

Quote:
In essense my question is whether dino oil is bad for a turbocharged subie engine or not given that it's changed every 3-4K miles.
IMO, not.
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:18 AM   #5
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The manual for the 2.0T engine says 7,500. I've been running synthetic since 1,600 miles in my '04, and it has never burned a drop. I change every 5,000k-6,500k miles, depending on what's convenient.
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:33 AM   #6
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I go back and forth between different grades, brands, and dino/synth. I don't think it's a huge deal.

I change my oil at 3500 miles. I used to run M1 5w30 all the time, but that got kinda expensive. Now I'm trying 5w30 in the winter and something a bit thicker in the summer. It's all just guesswork unless you do oil analysis all the time
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:37 AM   #7
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Well, I just got myself a nasty rebuild - the car is 07 STI with Cobb Stage 2 OTS map. and was just a daily driver. It was burning 1.5-2qt between oil changes, which I was told is within acceptable margins for these engines. I don't have the final words from the guys doing the rebuild yet, but the general consensus is that the oil wasn't doing it's job - they found burnt oil deposits and wear and tear in cylinders/pistons indicating that. I usually go to a Valvoline oil change place - the guys there (at least at this particular place) love the STI and always show extra care working on it. Anyway, after the rebuild I'll follow the shops recommendation that is working on my engine now on what oit to use, but I still don't really understand what has happened. I'll be waiting for the final report and can share it here.
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:40 PM   #8
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STI - Rebuild - Stage 2 OTS - burnt oil deposits - wear and tear in cylinders and pistons.

All good reasons not to go to a Valvoline oil change place, IMO. Or at least you should bring your own oil. What were your driving conditions and how often did you change your oil in the past? Which Valvoline and which viscosity did you use?

If you want an oil that will take some abuse and will clean and help prevent deposits, try any Red Line, Motul 300V, or Renewable Lubricants Inc. Also, get protuned. RTS might be good too because of its high level of Magnesium (detergent/dispersant).

-Dennis
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:41 PM   #9
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The car has 78K miles already (I mostly drive on highways) and I changed the oil between 3 and 4 thousands. (I think I went over 4K only ones). I have an EGT gauge and I honestly can't remember whether it showed temp much higher than 1400 degrees ever.

The problem began with the 4th cylinder losing compression. When the block was taken apart they found that the 4th cylinder has lots of burnt oil deposits, wear and tear. The guy who worked on it said that he could stick his finger nail between the piston and the cylinder wall. The other 3 cylinders showed 130psi compresion which AFAIK is very good.

Before the engine was taken apart, we thought if was a cracked ringland, but it was not confirmed. So, I'm still trying to determine/understand the cause. It's as if one cylinder was running veeeery lean burning the oil badly.
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Old 02-21-2010, 02:07 PM   #10
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I suppose it's too late for a used oil analysis. It could have been your tune. Did you use Synpower 5W-30? Regardless of which Valvoline you used, I'm not sure you could directly blame the oil.

If you had some oil for a uoa this guy may have been able to answer that question.

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Old 02-21-2010, 03:40 PM   #11
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People, change your own oil. Save money and know ur car.
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Old 02-21-2010, 04:25 PM   #12
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Please read the Oil FAQ. SOA doesn't car wether you use conventional or synthetic. It matters not to them. Weight does. Use what YOU like as there are conventionals that kick synthetics ass and vice versa, so research to your heart's content.
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Old 02-21-2010, 06:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by relliMmoT View Post
But other than giving you that vague and general post whorish search answer I really recommend bobistheoilguy.com . NASIOC will give you the Subie specific info you need, as you already know. However ive spent hours on bobistheoilguy.com forum getting the in depth analysis and some really interesting reading (not all necessarily about OIL)
From hours and hours of reading and looking through oil analysis etc all I have come to know for sure is to stick to my Rotella T Synth and never go back. I switched to Rotella T dino oil in my RX7 too and its had nothing but love for it.
Interesting, thank you.
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Old 02-21-2010, 06:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkramer View Post
got any reference for that dino oil recommendation? not in my owners manual at least. ESPECIALLY in turbo cars, synth oil is generally recommended.
no, but once I brought a Forester XT to a dealership for a repair. I also asked to change the oil but they said that they won't put synthetic in it per Subaru's recommendaton. I've read this on a Subaru board before, so I didn't argue much, but no, I didn't see anything in the owner's manual that states so.
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
I suppose it's too late for a used oil analysis. It could have been your tune. Did you use Synpower 5W-30? Regardless of which Valvoline you used, I'm not sure you could directly blame the oil.

If you had some oil for a uoa this guy may have been able to answer that question.

-Dennis
yeah, it's too late for the oil analysis. I was almost 100% sure it was cracked ringland, so I didn't even care to save some oil. Oh well.

I can't imagine it was the tune - the car is stock except for the COBB's downpipe, so the COBB's OTS Stage 2 should work perfectly. I used conventional Valvolne 5W-30 and that could be either part of the problem or the main reason.

Either way I'll switch to synthetic, but knowing why the 4th cylinder had so much burned oil is imperative. If it was from blow-by, I imagine that all cylinders would be more or less evenly covered with it, right? I assume a bad/cloged injector could cause it by spraying less fuel and developing lean condition, right? Anything else?
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
Please read the Oil FAQ. SOA doesn't car wether you use conventional or synthetic. It matters not to them. Weight does. Use what YOU like as there are conventionals that kick synthetics ass and vice versa, so research to your heart's content.
Conventionals that kick synthetics ass? Do you remember the name by a chance? Just curious.
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by relliMmoT View Post
They recommend synthetic? AFIAK it was a preference.
...This question could much easier be answered in your owners manual or using forum search. But other than giving you that vague and general post whorish search answer I really recommend bobistheoilguy.com . NASIOC will give you the Subie specific info you need, as you already know. However ive spent hours on bobistheoilguy.com forum getting the in depth analysis and some really interesting reading (not all necessarily about OIL)
From hours and hours of reading and looking through oil analysis etc all I have come to know for sure is to stick to my Rotella T Synth and never go back. I switched to Rotella T dino oil in my RX7 too and its had nothing but love for it.
Rotella T synthetic is $19 per 5 quart jug at my local walmart. Good old Castrol GTX is about $13 per 5 quart jug. There is no economic reason that a do-it-yourselfer should choose dino oil over synthetic anymore. Any quality synthetic should meet or exceed Subaru standards.
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleksey View Post
Conventionals that kick synthetics ass? Do you remember the name by a chance? Just curious.
Lubrication Engineers 8530 MONOLEC
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asinine View Post
The manual for the 2.0T engine says 7,500.
Subaru recently recommended changing the oil in all turbo Subies according to the severe service interval ie. at 3750.

Quote:
Rotella T synthetic is $19 per 5 quart jug at my local walmart. Good old Castrol GTX is about $13 per 5 quart jug. There is no economic reason that a do-it-yourselfer should choose dino oil over synthetic anymore.
$6 is $6; why spend extra if there is no real benefit?
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Old 02-21-2010, 10:03 PM   #20
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since the turbo is watercooled, it is not quite as crucial to run synthetic over conventional...good oil is good oil. I still run synthetic though. But when i bought my new turbo the break in instructions said to run conventional for the first 2 oil changes...I got a UOA done on both of them and they came back good good
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Old 02-21-2010, 10:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Wevrick View Post
Subaru recently recommended changing the oil in all turbo Subies according to the severe service interval ie. at 3750.
I had heard that, but I suspected it was a change for the 2.5L engines. I'm not too worried about it, though. After 5,200 miles, my oil still has a nice dark golden color and is still coming up to the 'full' mark. I'll post up the UOA analysis when the weather breaks and I can change it.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinM View Post
Rotella T synthetic is $19 per 5 quart jug at my local walmart.
You sure it's a 5-quart jug? The only Rotella T jugs I've seen are 4-quart (gallon) jugs.
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:18 PM   #23
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^^ they've all been going to 4quart jugs. I thought it was just rotella back when I switched to that stuff. But looked back and most of them have switched to 4quart bottles.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleksey View Post
yeah, it's too late for the oil analysis. I was almost 100% sure it was cracked ringland, so I didn't even care to save some oil. Oh well.

I can't imagine it was the tune - the car is stock except for the COBB's downpipe, so the COBB's OTS Stage 2 should work perfectly. I used conventional Valvolne 5W-30 and that could be either part of the problem or the main reason.

Either way I'll switch to synthetic, but knowing why the 4th cylinder had so much burned oil is imperative. If it was from blow-by, I imagine that all cylinders would be more or less evenly covered with it, right? I assume a bad/cloged injector could cause it by spraying less fuel and developing lean condition, right? Anything else?
Does the '07 have a cracked ringland problem? What fuel do you use? That also plays a part in keeping deposits at bay.

-Dennis
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:30 PM   #25
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I use Pennzoil 10w40, 135k miles, maybe 50k on stage 2 tune, 230whp. Burns maybe 1/2-3/4 qt every 4k miles, probably 50% highway driving. I have never put synth in. I have used 10w40 since probably 7.5k miles, after the 1st oil change I got for free at the dealer with their blend. I have done it myself since.
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