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Old 02-22-2010, 11:30 AM   #1
I'm Slow
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Default 11.9@123 Help dissect my slip

Traction was definitely an issue but it only really affected 1st gear. I was happy with the trap speed but man wtf???? I should be running mid-low 11's with that trap. Any ideas? I plan on getting some DR's or slicks before my next visit to the track.



My car has a HTA 35r on the stock motor. Boost was about 26-27psi

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Old 02-22-2010, 11:32 AM   #2
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Looks like it came out of boost on the 1-2 shift? Your 330' should be a lot better. The problems start at the 330' mark.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:53 AM   #3
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alot of people think there trap should make their times better, I got a 127 w/ an 11.9, then later got 2 back to back 11.2's at 124.5mph, just as ref to what you can do, Im on a 30r, was a stock motor/clutch/tranny at the time, full weight 6 speed sti, w 18's/street tires w mad camber, back east it would be a 10, but out here in socal, this is prob about as good as this set-up can do, 27psi/c-16, no launch control, can't read that 60, but you can pull a 1.60 as did I. prob the best we could do tho
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:55 AM   #4
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yeah, something seems to be happening between the 60 and 330. I spun really bad in first but the 1-2 shift seemed fine.....I think I hit rev limiter. What seems to be killing me most is the UTEC picking up knock when I hit rev limiter and then pulling timing.

The UTEC sucks for drag racing. One knock or even flase knock and there goes your timing/power


I have run 11.9@118 with a 1.7 60 on pump gas. I am pretty sure its do to the utec pulling timing when I hit rev limit and then timing being added back in by 4th gear

Anyone else have this problem with the UTEC?
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:58 AM   #5
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Honestly it seems if you have fallen out of boost every single shift. The 1000ft also indicates something drastic happening. Even with that 7.8 1/8th, you should have been easily been able to pull off a 9.8xx. This indicates that along with falling out of boost, you may have been pulling some timing in the taller gears.

What type of EM are you using? Every track day your car should be tweaked on the road. Shift knock can easily be tuned out, and slight modifications for conditions should be done.

For example, the day of or before the track, go out on the highway. Launch the car and fly through the gears like you life depended on it. Look at the logs. Was there shift knock? Is there room for more in certain areas of the Rom? Were the air fuels consistant?

This is why I took it upon myself to learn about our ECU's. When a number is thrown up on a dyno, then performance lacks, you want to know why.

Log your car. See how it reacts to your driving style in track like condtions. Where is the boost falling to?
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #6
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Your knock threshold is probably set really low cause you have a stock motor. I love my UTEC for drag racing!!! You run into the same false knock issues with stock EM.
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Slow View Post
yeah, something seems to be happening between the 60 and 330. I spun really bad in first but the 1-2 shift seemed fine.....I think I hit rev limiter. What seems to be killing me most is the UTEC picking up knock when I hit rev limiter and then pulling timing.

The UTEC sucks for drag racing. One knock or even flase knock and there goes your timing/power


I have run 11.9@118 with a 1.7 60 on pump gas. I am pretty sure its do to the utec pulling timing when I hit rev limit and then timing being added back in by 4th gear

Anyone else have this problem with the UTEC?
Everyone here is trying to convince me to do the UTEC for drag racing purposes. I refuse. I'd rather sort through the stock ECU and solve the problems that could be solved rather than throwing a UTEC in and saying problem solved.

Open ECU for your setup is fine. The shift knock can be eliminated by manipulating timing tables, or by being brave and "dissabling" the knock control.
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:10 PM   #8
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the car definitely falls out of boost from the 4th to 5th shift .....Sometimes I think I just shift too slow lol. I think I need ffs sometimes to compensate lol.

I'm only getting knock on the launch when the tires are spinning or I hit rev limit etc. when I use the race gas
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:12 PM   #9
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On race gas I wouldn't feel bad about setting the knock threshold to 5 or 6. It's probably set to 1 or 2 now. BUT, raising the knock threshold could blow your motor up too.
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:58 PM   #10
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no.1 what hotside no2.if you are not ffs the car it will definitely lose boost between gears and it will be real bad if you aren't a real fast shifter.as far as shift knock you can adjust how many knock counts it sees before it pulls timing(set it at 3 and you'll be fine) also adjust how many degrees it pulls when it sees knock(it si probably set at more than 5 you can lower it to 2-3 and pull enuff timing to be safe and not too much to kill power).Also from what I have experienced you can desensetize the knock threshold values by 3-4 numbers from 2000-up and still be ok,straight from turboxs the parameters are set up very conservatively. good luck
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:11 PM   #11
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.82 hotside. Stock 04 tranny. No ffs. I'm going to def try to adjust the knock threshold and hope that allows me a clea pass with no timing being pulled. Anyone ever use the utec ffs feature?
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Slow View Post
.82 hotside. Stock 04 tranny. No ffs. I'm going to def try to adjust the knock threshold and hope that allows me a clea pass with no timing being pulled. Anyone ever use the utec ffs feature?
Here is UTEC FFS


But I wouldn't enable UTEC FFS with a stock ej257, it is pretty violent and you will need to increase the knock threshold. And my old motor shown in this video did drop a valve...
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:22 PM   #13
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Do you have a lightweight flywheel?
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:27 PM   #14
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nice vid, whats done to your heads to go up to 7800-almost 8000? & whats the code being thrown?
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:28 PM   #15
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That was "false knock" or a catalyst damaging misfire, supertech +0.5mm valves and supertech dual springs. cossie cams. new heads have the same valves and ferrea springs.

utec ffs is badass
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:30 PM   #16
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TS, what did you dyno if you dont mind me asking?
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:34 PM   #17
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I thought your old motor had stainless exh valves (which do not hold up to turbo motor exh heat very well) and your new motor has inconel exh valves(which is best for turbo exh applications).also he could go with fuel cut instead of ignition cut on the LC and FFS and it wouldn't be quite as violent or as hard on components.
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 48mpg View Post
TS, what did you dyno if you dont mind me asking?
If you are asking me , I made 550 whp on q16 and meth @29-30 psi. This pass was on 26-27psi
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
I thought your old motor had stainless exh valves (which do not hold up to turbo motor exh heat very well) and your new motor has inconel exh valves(which is best for turbo exh applications).also he could go with fuel cut instead of ignition cut on the LC and FFS and it wouldn't be quite as violent or as hard on components.
Yeah I am looking into setting up the ffs now using fuel cut instead of ignition
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:43 PM   #20
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the 1-2 is definitely a big problem because that 330' is ****ty, probably ignition timing related, and the 4-5 is also a big problem as far as I can see on the slip. The 4-5 sucks because there is really no way around it other than revving the piss out of the engine or buying the shorter 5/6th gears (Actually this REALLY helps). Next time you head out to OSW, you should hit me up...
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxwhat View Post
the 1-2 is definitely a big problem because that 330' is ****ty, probably ignition timing related, and the 4-5 is also a big problem as far as I can see on the slip. The 4-5 sucks because there is really no way around it other than revving the piss out of the engine or buying the shorter 5/6th gears (Actually this REALLY helps). Next time you head out to OSW, you should hit me up...
the 1-2 wasnt the problem, it was the timing being pulled do to the knock during launch. I have another slip on my pump gas map which had no knock on the launche, my 330 and 1/8 are both faster then this slip. 4-5 has always been a problem for me because I dont wat to miss 5th lol. I wish I could trap in 4th, I have been looking into gear options now. I usually go to BMP but I can make a trip out to OSW with some friends some time. I here OSW is a good track, always nicely prepped unlike BMP!
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:54 AM   #22
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If you had logs of your runs, we'd have more information to go on, and that would provide hard evidence if (and exactly when) you're getting knock.

I'm just sayin'...
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:06 PM   #23
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^ If I had a laptop working I would but mine died
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:23 PM   #24
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Do you mean died as in ran out of battery at the track? Or is just done for good?

If its still running you can just log in your driveway while blipping the throttle.......my car likes to knock when i do that. But ive never tried to fix it since i rarely do it.

If you decide to go back to the track in the meantime just hold the throttle instead of blipping it. I mean you wont build as much boost off the line.....but thats better than pulling 6-8* of timing.

Also, you can try removing timing and/or adding fuel in the maps in the 4500rpm-7000rpm cells in the 0-1.0 load region. These are the cells you're popping into when blipping and during shifting.
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:35 PM   #25
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Ron, you on aim?
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