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Old 01-21-2008, 02:43 PM   #1
ButtDyno
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Default STX WRX Setup / Discussion thread

STU, BSP, ESP and most of DS have their own thread. It only seems fair

I tried to get a bunch of the relevant threads together here for newbies and such:

Rules: If it doesn't say you can, you can't

The Rules Sticky: Auto-X Rules: Read This First
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174189

STX General:

How would you do STX? (general advice thread)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

Help me setup the STX Wagon!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...=clarification

Listing of *ALL* STX legal mods with subjective priorities
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1181271

Tires:

235-40/17 vs 245-40/17 STX
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R vs Yoko Advan Neova AD07s for STX
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

RE01R vs. Advan Neova
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1283791

Power mods:

STX, boost maps, dyno tuning, etc (STX-legal dyno plots as well as power discussion)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

STX Power
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

How STX legal map makes power?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

The Great Exhaust Clarification Debacle of 2007:

August clarification: ST* - the Throwdown - 2007
http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/255144.aspx

September Fastrack posted online - ST news
http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/259938.aspx

NASIOC clarification thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...=clarification

Post-clarification exhaust setup database:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1364415

Quest for STX-legal WRX:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

ST* - emissions legal or not?
http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/278185.aspx

Suspension setup:

STX swaybar and spring rate data
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

WRX in STX (flipping coilover springs question)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

Faster with a stiffer front swaybar?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=jic

More camber, less stopping power?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=pyrometer

Other:

What essential go fast STX mod would you buy?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx



Also I figure folks can post their setups here and ask general setup questions like in the STU thread. Hope it's helpful. I will post mine at some point

john
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Last edited by ButtDyno; 04-10-2008 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:55 PM   #2
PhilC
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Our setup is pretty much still what is listed on the teamsoloracer.com site. http://www.teamsoloracer.com/drivers/pjcroy.php It hasn't been updated in a while but the basics are there. Car is still for sale if anyone is interested in an essentially fully prepped nationally competitve car rather than doing the development themselves. Buy it for the cost of the car and less than 1/4 of the parts cost.
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:22 PM   #3
Sideshowbob
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STX setup- Buy a really fast 1991 Honda Hatch Si, install front LSD, and win.

1/4 of the cost, just don't go to pro's
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:40 PM   #4
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89's are lighter

awesome thread, john
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Old 01-21-2008, 04:20 PM   #5
thrdeye
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My car's pretty much good to go felt great at the subaru challenge (#1 in pax), but I'm still working on getting it to comply to this emissions bull****.

K&N Typhoon short ram
Vibrant header and uppipe combo, coated inside/out and wrapped
Prodrive downpipe
Prodrive 3rd cat delete
straight pipe

BC Racing non-inverted coilovers 10K front/12K rear
Whiteline 24 MM front sway
Steering rack bushings
Goodridge stainless brake lines


17x8 Rota Boost with 245/40/17 RE01-R's
Hawker Odyssey Battery - PC 535

Alignment

-3.0 camber front
absolute 0 in the rear
Toe = I don't know.

Upcoming changes
-Emissions bull**** experimentation
-Hawk HP+ pads
-New rear rotors


That's really about it.
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:06 PM   #6
ButtDyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
STX setup- Buy a really fast 1991 Honda Hatch Si, install front LSD, and win.

1/4 of the cost, just don't go to pro's
You stole that from Hoppe. It's in the second link
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=stx

Quote:
Originally Posted by planetarygear
How would you do STX?
Quote:
Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
91 Civic, STS mods, high flow cat, slip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by planetarygear View Post
You have a 2005 WRX and a fairly decent budget.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
doh!

-K&N Typhoon
-Intake hose
-parts bin turbo
-equal length header
-good downpipe with high flow
-straightpipe
-ECUtek

-swaybars/endlinks
-Koni double setup with custom housings/camber plates
-pimpy rear lateral links
-pimpy big brake kit thats lighter then stock with carbotech pads

-seats
-lightweight battery
-light 17x8 with your choice of 245/35/17
-seat time

-Tom
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:53 PM   #7
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yes- we definitely deserve our own thread- thanks for doing so!

I've started on my "quest" for a STX legal exhaust- gutted my oe uppipe (the STi one I have now has no provision for the egt) today- not the most fun two hours I've had

Heard from several folks that the Prodrive catted downpipe on it's own will prevent the P0420, so I bought a used one (it's off to SwainTech) will be teamed w/ a Prodrive de-catted center pipe (fingers crossed)

I'm thinking about about a short turn down to bolt on for events- good idea????

stock air box w/ STi panel filter-> Samco MAF hose->Samco turbo inlet

My STX map could probably be improved, sounds like TopSpeed is highly thought of

Currently on SA Koni's w/ Tarmac springs (6/5k) and RCE front/GrP N rears- it's nice for a daily driver, but I hope to firm things up a bit probably 8/7k- looking at DA AST's, also looking at zzyzx's new EM's- I don't see myself in 10+k for some reason

current alignment is -2.8/-1.5 (caster is ~ .5 more + than oe) toe ~ 2mm out f/r, will probably try and go a little higher in front -3.2 ish

ride height is 355 front/345 rear (this is a wagon- so ~ 30mm lower than stock)

27mm WL front sway bar/22mm rear, Poltec sway links front/rear

Grp N pitch/engine/tranny/rear diff mounts, transverse/lateral/trailing bushings

Brakes are FHI 4/2 pots w/ Ferodo 2500's, if I can free up some $ am considering a lighter BBK up front

Wheels are Enkei ES Tarmacs 17x8 and just found a set of Neovas in 235/40/17, for "summer" daily driving Enkei RC-T4's 17x8 wrapped w/ undetermined tire- possibly Advan Sports

Would like to shed a few lbs w/ seats, just need to find that $ tree
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:05 AM   #8
Scooby921
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I'm still working on the STX legal exhaust. I opted for a full APS turboback. I need to get back to my local shop and have them turn the CEL's back on so I can see whether or not it throws a code. I also need to gut a stock uppipe and put that back in so I have an EGT probe.

Outside of that, the car is as follows:
Suspension:
Ground Control housings, Koni 8611 dampers, Swift 7kg/mm front springs, Eibach 500lb/in rear springs, GC front and rear camber/caster plates
Whiteline 22mm FSB, 24mm adjustable RSB (set at softest)
Kartboy front and rear endlinks
Alignment = -3.25deg / -0.5deg camber f/r, 1.8mm measured toe out f/r, ride height set at 13.75" / 13.25" f/r (distance from hub center to fender)

Engine / power:
APS short ram
Crucial P&P&C headers (will be changing to GrimmSpeed as they are the new sponsor)
Stock gutted uppipe (in process)
APS turboback
GFB underdrive pulleys
AP w/custom tune (working on getting Doug from TopSpeed to make a trip to the midwest)
Makes 195hp and 198ft-lbs at the wheels (~45 more than stock).

Driveline:
TiC rear diff bushings
Kartboy outrigger bushings
TiC tranny x-member bushings
GroupN tranny mount
Kartboy shifter and all bushings

Brakes:
Cobb / Stoptech 332x32 BBK
BHP XPS pads up front
Carbotech Panther + in back
Stoptech lines front, goodridge lines rear
Motul RBF600 fluid

Wheels / tires:
Enkei RPF-1 17x8 +45
Yokohama Advan Neova 235/40R17 shaved to 5/32" (may switch to Toyo R1R just to test them)
Rota Torque 17x8 +48
Yokohama Advan Neova 235/40R17 full depth (daily driver / wet weather tires)

Weight savings:
Sparco Evo L driver's seat (w/ sliders and mounts)
Braille B2015 lightweight battery (15lb all-season version)

Added weight:
Takata 4-pt harness
STi corner splitters
Gauges, sending units, and a dash pod
Extra power outlet run inside the dash and over to driver's side for GPS unit
Will likely be adding the weight of a Traqmate data acquisition system


Car weighed in at 3260lbs w/ driver last summer when I had it aligned and balanced. That was with a rather full tank of gas and a driver than was 30lbs heavier. Setup was good enough for 1st and the Peru Nat'l Tour and 2nd at the Toledo Pro.

Last edited by Scooby921; 01-25-2008 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:13 AM   #9
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For other information that people may find useful...

I talked to both Kumho and Toyo on the phone yesterday. The Ecsta XS is still in testing. They set the benchmark bar with the Advan Neova and say the XS is doing very well. Unfortunately it isn't due out to market until late summer so it not an option this solo season. Toyo said they only have 7 sizes of the R1R in production right now. A 245/35R17 is NOT one of those sizes. They do not have any testing results that they plan to share. The simply said they are leaving testing to outside sources so the results are unbiased. All I could get from them was that they are very proud of this tire and happy with how it turned out.

I will be sticking with a 235 for the year. I'm not sure whether or not I'll be going with Yokohama, Toyo, or Bridgestone though. Yokohama and Bridgestone have proven performance. Yokohama has not yet renewed their contingency program for this year so their tires are getting less affordable. Toyo matched Bridgestone's contingency so they are looking better. I might have to buy a set and head to a test and tune to compare them to my current Advans.
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:52 AM   #10
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how are the Neovas at full tread for the wet?

the contingency pdf has a check off for Yokohama, I've got an email into them- hopefully they are (will) be on board???
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:00 AM   #11
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Old 01-22-2008, 11:06 AM   #12
Scooby South
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made it a part of the AutoX Sticky..
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:05 PM   #13
Scooby921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX View Post
how are the Neovas at full tread for the wet?

the contingency pdf has a check off for Yokohama, I've got an email into them- hopefully they are (will) be on board???
Talked to Jenny White yesterday. She updated the forms and removed Yokohama as an option. If they are indeed going to have a contingency program then I might have to hold off on the forms until they are updated again. It would be nice to stay with Yokohama for the year as I only have 1 event on that shaved set and the full depth ones are still in the basement waiting to be mounted next summer. I might get by with only one new set for the year.


At full depth they are pretty good, but I happen to like the 'kook R-S2 better in wet weather. Tread pattern is very similar, but the softer sidewall is a little more forgiving on the wet surface. Then again, I did go play in the rain on 1/32" depth, old, heat-cycled Advans last summer and was quite impressed with how well they did. Hydroplaning is still hydroplaning, but it still didn't seem to push wide or spin with standing water in most corners of the course.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KilnGfwCz0o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmRkj1Abe8A

Last edited by Scooby921; 01-22-2008 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:52 PM   #14
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^ monsoon

never got a response back from Yokohama, will call this time
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:16 PM   #15
Scooby921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX View Post
^ monsoon

never got a response back from Yokohama, will call this time
Monsoon is about right. 6-8" of standing water in some areas and it only rained for 15 minutes! MI weather is just so fun
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Old 01-25-2008, 12:53 AM   #16
ButtDyno
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06 Evo #7 STU, 03 IS300

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My setup (as of the end of last year):
Koni 1198's valved for Ground Control, in Ground Control housings
400 lb/in Eibach ERS (front)
450 lb/in Eibach ERS (rear)
Ground Control top mount camber/caster plates (front)
STi Grp N strut tops (rear)
Whiteline 27mm front swaybar w/ Kartboy endlinks
Cobb 23ish mm rear swaybar w/ Kartboy endlinks
Cusco rear strut tower brace
Alignment: -3.5 f, -1.2 rear
Ride height: 14" front, 14" rear

Engine/power:
PDE solid uppipe
TurboXS stealthback w/ Scoobysport muffler
Borla header
Samco inlet hose
K&N Typhoon
STX ProTune: 237 whp, 232 ft/lb
Odyssey PC680 battery

Drivetrain:
STi short shifter
STi Grp N engine mounts
STi Grp N transmission mount
Kartboy shifter bushing
Whiteline steering rack bushings (meh)
Redline Lightweight Shockproof fluid

Wheels/tires
17x7.5 JDM Ver7 STi wheels w/ RE070's
17x8 Enkei ES-Tarmac w/ ... ?

Brakes
StopTech 328x28 BBK (front)
StopTech H6 rotors (rear)
Hawk HPS pads
Super Blue

Other:
Lots of STi Ver7 rice (headlights, door cards, rear seats, cluster, grill, fog covers)
Sparco Evo seats

I had the raw times to snag the last trophy spot at the DC Pro, but hit the last cone on the damned course (after the finish line, doh). The car is definitely a lot more capable than I am.

In July the car weighed 3025 lbs w/o driver. My goal for this year was to drop that at least 50 lbs, more if possible.

Changes planned for 2008:
-Switching from big-ass Wings West spoiler to wingless
-New set of 17x8 RPF-1's w/ Direzzas (street/rain)
-Some new tires for the ES-Tarmacs (Yokos? Toyos? Waiting as long as possible on this one)
-TurboXS one-off two-cat turboback
-Spring rate / swaybar / ride height / alignment changes TBD.

With the 2007 setup and the Cobb rear bar at full stiff the car was plenty neutral but I was getting a lot of wheelspin at corner exit than I was with the bar at full soft. I am thinking about going to 500# front, 550# rear, and then swapping to the Cobb front swaybar (something like 23mm and ~8 lbs lighter) and running the rear bar on full soft. Any tweaking from there would be done with the alignment.

I don't know if 100 lb/in is enough to make up for the decrease in swaybar size, and if it is enough, I don't know if it will actually fix the wheelspin problem. It seems like very smart people disagree on the issue of whether achieving roll stiffness with bars and achieving roll stiffness with springs work out to be the same in terms of wheel lift/wheelspin. Cheapest/simplest option is to leave it alone, of course, which isn't that bad.

john
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:37 AM   #17
curbait
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
My setup (as of the end of last year):
Koni 1198's valved for Ground Control, in Ground Control housings
400 lb/in Eibach ERS (front)
450 lb/in Eibach ERS (rear)
Ground Control top mount camber/caster plates (front)
STi Grp N strut tops (rear)
Whiteline 27mm front swaybar w/ Kartboy endlinks
Cobb 23ish mm rear swaybar w/ Kartboy endlinks
Cusco rear strut tower brace
Alignment: -3.5 f, -1.2 rear
Ride height: 14" front, 14" rear

Engine/power:
PDE solid uppipe
TurboXS stealthback w/ Scoobysport muffler
Borla header
Samco inlet hose
K&N Typhoon
STX ProTune: 237 whp, 232 ft/lb
Odyssey PC680 battery

Drivetrain:
STi short shifter
STi Grp N engine mounts
STi Grp N transmission mount
Kartboy shifter bushing
Whiteline steering rack bushings (meh)
Redline Lightweight Shockproof fluid

Wheels/tires
17x7.5 JDM Ver7 STi wheels w/ RE070's
17x8 Enkei ES-Tarmac w/ ... ?

Brakes
StopTech 328x28 BBK (front)
StopTech H6 rotors (rear)
Hawk HPS pads
Super Blue

Other:
Lots of STi Ver7 rice (headlights, door cards, rear seats, cluster, grill, fog covers)
Sparco Evo seats

I had the raw times to snag the last trophy spot at the DC Pro, but hit the last cone on the damned course (after the finish line, doh). The car is definitely a lot more capable than I am.

In July the car weighed 3025 lbs w/o driver. My goal for this year was to drop that at least 50 lbs, more if possible.

Changes planned for 2008:
-Switching from big-ass Wings West spoiler to wingless
-New set of 17x8 RPF-1's w/ Direzzas (street/rain)
-Some new tires for the ES-Tarmacs (Yokos? Toyos? Waiting as long as possible on this one)
-TurboXS one-off two-cat turboback
-Spring rate / swaybar / ride height / alignment changes TBD.

With the 2007 setup and the Cobb rear bar at full stiff the car was plenty neutral but I was getting a lot of wheelspin at corner exit than I was with the bar at full soft. I am thinking about going to 500# front, 550# rear, and then swapping to the Cobb front swaybar (something like 23mm and ~8 lbs lighter) and running the rear bar on full soft. Any tweaking from there would be done with the alignment.

I don't know if 100 lb/in is enough to make up for the decrease in swaybar size, and if it is enough, I don't know if it will actually fix the wheelspin problem. It seems like very smart people disagree on the issue of whether achieving roll stiffness with bars and achieving roll stiffness with springs work out to be the same in terms of wheel lift/wheelspin. Cheapest/simplest option is to leave it alone, of course, which isn't that bad.

john
What about tweaking what you already have. Like going to the soft setting on the rear bar or even a stock rear bar if you have it and adjusting tire pressure and or shock setting. Just a thought!
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Old 01-25-2008, 08:32 AM   #18
ButtDyno
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At one point I had -3.5 f, -.8 rear, 27mm front bar and 17mm rear bar (before I bought the Cobb) and it was well balanced - better than it was when I ended the year and without the wheelspin issues. I was running more rake than when I ended the year though. I guess with the bar at full soft (effectively 21mm I think) I could run a bit more rake or a little less camber in the rear and hopefully get the same effect.

One other thing is that I don't have independent height/preload adjustments so the only way I can run less camber in the rear is to raise the rear a little bit. But you're right, the smart thing is to try tweaking things before $$'ing

john
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:26 AM   #19
thrdeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post

One other thing is that I don't have independent height/preload adjustments so the only way I can run less camber in the rear is to raise the rear a little bit. But you're right, the smart thing is to try tweaking things before $$'ing

john
Use some camber bolts....
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:28 AM   #20
ButtDyno
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I have rear camber bolts (sorry, let them off the mod list)
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:51 AM   #21
thrdeye
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Hmm...well, I'm at 0 in the rear with my bolts....
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Old 01-25-2008, 11:00 AM   #22
ButtDyno
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My guess is that I could easily get less if I had something with independent height and preload adjustments. I might have to go to a shorter spring of the same rate in order to get the results I'm after.
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:39 PM   #23
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what's the general consensus (I'm sure there is no consensus ) on intakes for STX? power to be had? heat soak issues?
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:06 AM   #24
Scooby921
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Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX View Post
what's the general consensus (I'm sure there is no consensus ) on intakes for STX? power to be had? heat soak issues?
I have one. I didn't do a before and after comparison to see whether or not it makes a big difference. I know a lot of the STX competition I've run against at national levels has had some form of short-ram or CAI. I don't think you're losing anything over stock with the heat soak. You are losing a couple pounds worth of plastic crap though. And you get to hear the turbo spool up and it makes you smile...well it at least makes me smile.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:05 PM   #25
BIGSKYWRX
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I'll have to re-delve into the whole intake thing
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